Build recommendations

Simple pot still distillation and construction with or without a thumper.

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Danespirit
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Re: Build recommendations

Post by Danespirit » Tue Jan 17, 2017 4:54 pm

That's the right attitude.. :thumbup:

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Re: Build recommendations

Post by Steve3730 » Sun Jan 22, 2017 8:06 pm

I've attached a sketch of what I'm planning to put together(Excuse my poor paintshop skills). The Copper will attach to the SS reducer with a tri-clamp so I can put different columns on it in the future. the lieberg arm will also be attached with a union so I can use the lieberg arm with different lynearm set ups or if I wanted to put a thumper in there. Any major design flaws? I appreciate the input
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Re: Build recommendations

Post by Danespirit » Mon Jan 23, 2017 12:44 pm

Well, it looks good...I have a few suggestions, though.
You don't need a 3" riser, a 2" will be adequate. If a 3" piece ifs what you have..just use it.
The fill port is only 1". That will be much too small a diameter and I'm very sure you won't be happy with it for too long.
I would suggest a 2" or bigger as a fill port. You can seal it with an end cap and tri-clamp for easy access, a more elegant solution than a threaded fitting.
A 1,5" ferrule could do it...it has an inside diameter of 35 mm....roughly 1,4". Should be fine with a funnel.
The 6" ferrule will cost some money. Maybe you want to overthink that part. A 3" will do the job too....and be a "wallet friendly " solution.
Also, you'll want some kind of support for the Liebig. The combined weight of the pipes and water will add significant stress to the reducers at the end.
The drain valve at the bottom is a good idea. Make it a full-bore 3/4" or 1", if that's what you have.
A barbed hose nipple at the end with a silicone hose will ensure you can drain it without making a mess. :idea:

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Re: Build recommendations

Post by Steve3730 » Mon Jan 23, 2017 4:42 pm

i like the triclamp fillport idea i'll switch to that. I was worried 2" would undersize it for using different columns on it in the future and if 3" was too big for my initial potstill set up I could always add a copper reducer. I have a plumber and building engineer helping me build it. I will get with them and figure out a support system for the lieberg arm. maybe some threaded rob and pipe supports

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Re: Build recommendations

Post by Steve3730 » Mon Jan 23, 2017 4:42 pm

i like the triclamp fillport idea i'll switch to that. I was worried 2" would undersize it for using different columns on it in the future and if 3" was too big for my initial potstill set up I could always add a copper reducer. I have a plumber and building engineer helping me build it. I will get with them and figure out a support system for the lieberg arm. maybe some threaded rob and pipe supports

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Re: Build recommendations

Post by Danespirit » Tue Jan 24, 2017 3:54 am

A 2 or 3" opening, will be sufficient for all your columns you may want to attach.
There are a lot of guys running a 3" flute on top of a 2" tri-clamp connected to the boiler.
My ferrule is only 1,5 " and poses no problem, regarding the vapor flow into any of my columns/pot still.
I'd make some kind of stand for that Liebig if I were to build that still.
It could be accomplished with a very inexpensive solution...heck it doesn't even have to be metal, some wood can do the job too (it could even be made collapsible for easy storage).
The important things to remember are:
1) It's got to be sturdy enough, so it won't tumble or tip.
2) The height of the take off point ( you don't want to crawl on the floor to change jars).

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Re: Build recommendations

Post by still_stirrin » Tue Jan 24, 2017 6:14 am

Good input Danespirit.

Steve, I didn't see (or read) in the discussion if you plan to add a union in the vapor branch. It is nice to be able to separate the product condenser from the still head for cleaning and storage. I recommend adding one if you haven't already. They're not too pricey unless it get larger than 1".
ss
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Re: Build recommendations

Post by Steve3730 » Tue Jan 24, 2017 10:13 am

still_stirrin wrote:Good input Danespirit.

Steve, I didn't see (or read) in the discussion if you plan to add a union in the vapor branch. It is nice to be able to separate the product condenser from the still head for cleaning and storage. I recommend adding one if you haven't already. They're not too pricey unless it get larger than 1".
ss

Yup! we'll be putting one in after it drops down to 3/4". This should also allow us to insert a thumper and use the same condenser on the output of the thumper. Also we'll put a union after the cooling jacket for different lengths to reach our parrot based on the still set up

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Re: Build recommendations

Post by Steve3730 » Tue Feb 07, 2017 4:28 pm

So I've collected most my parts and planning to take the keg to the fabricator by the end of this week.

i have a question about the sankey drain. Do you cut off the post that the tapper sits on or do you just weld the 2" ferrule onto that? Hard to see in the pictures on the link someone posted earlier in this

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Re: Build recommendations

Post by still_stirrin » Tue Feb 07, 2017 7:11 pm

Steve3730 wrote:...i have a question about the sankey drain. Do you cut off the post that the tapper sits on or do you just weld the 2" ferrule onto that? Hard to see in the pictures on the link someone posted earlier in this
Remove the Sanke valve and the rest of the outlet is perfect for a 2" triclover fitting....no welding...no additional ferrule needed. Just put the mating ferrule on the outlet and tighten the TC clamp (be sure to use a teflon gasket tho).

For the gasket, I slide it back and forth over a piece of sandpaper laying on a flat surface. That will sand the bead off of one side of the gasket so it fits flat on the Sanke outlet. Easy...peazy.
ss
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Re: Build recommendations

Post by Steve3730 » Wed Feb 08, 2017 5:07 am

still_stirrin wrote:
Steve3730 wrote:...i have a question about the sankey drain. Do you cut off the post that the tapper sits on or do you just weld the 2" ferrule onto that? Hard to see in the pictures on the link someone posted earlier in this
Remove the Sanke valve and the rest of the outlet is perfect for a 2" triclover fitting....no welding...no additional ferrule needed. Just put the mating ferrule on the outlet and tighten the TC clamp (be sure to use a teflon gasket tho).

For the gasket, I slide it back and forth over a piece of sandpaper laying on a flat surface. That will sand the bead off of one side of the gasket so it fits flat on the Sanke outlet. Easy...peazy.
ss
Awesome that makes life easier! I'll get a threaded triclover fitting so I can attach a SS valve close to the sankey. is this type of gasket ok to use throughout the rig?

https://www.brewershardware.com/1_5-Tri ... ory_id=330" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

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Re: Build recommendations

Post by Danespirit » Wed Feb 08, 2017 3:12 pm

Do NOT use that kind of gasket....it's silicone...and even hard to know what kind as there are a lot of different qualities, too.
Do as Ss suggested and use PTFE.
For the gasket, I slide it back and forth over a piece of sandpaper laying on a flat surface. That will sand the bead off of one side of the gasket so it fits flat on the Sanke outlet. Easy...peazy.
That's the reason why he wrote as he did...PTFE is a rigid material, silicone is not.

Edited to add: It should be quite easy to get an appropriate gasket. If not, try E-bay....I guarantee you get some of them thrown at you for a couple of bucks.
If my memory serves me correctly, I bought 5 pcs. for 1,50 $.
Please don't take the easy way and build with questionable materials...for your own best and safety. :eugeek:

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Re: Build recommendations

Post by Steve3730 » Wed Feb 08, 2017 4:25 pm

Danespirit wrote:Do NOT use that kind of gasket....it's silicone...and even hard to know what kind as there are a lot of different qualities, too.
Do as Ss suggested and use PTFE.
For the gasket, I slide it back and forth over a piece of sandpaper laying on a flat surface. That will sand the bead off of one side of the gasket so it fits flat on the Sanke outlet. Easy...peazy.
That's the reason why he wrote as he did...PTFE is a rigid material, silicone is not.

Edited to add: It should be quite easy to get an appropriate gasket. If not, try E-bay....I guarantee you get some of them thrown at you for a couple of bucks.
If my memory serves me correctly, I bought 5 pcs. for 1,50 $.
Please don't take the easy way and build with questionable materials...for your own best and safety. :eugeek:
defenitily not they just poped up as "recommended purchases" when i bought the 6" ferrule and tri-clamps.I'll buy the right gaskets before we get to the point of running it

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Re: Build recommendations

Post by rad14701 » Wed Feb 08, 2017 5:34 pm

Steve3730 wrote:defenitily not they just poped up as "recommended purchases" when i bought the 6" ferrule and tri-clamps.I'll buy the right gaskets before we get to the point of running it
But here's the rub... Recommended by who and for what purpose...??? The devil is in the details... They, whoever they are, are looking out for their profit margins, not necessarily your best interests...

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Re: Build recommendations

Post by Steve3730 » Tue Feb 14, 2017 5:05 am

to go from the SS 3" triclamp to the 3" copper pipe. Does the copper need to be grooved or flared at the bottom for the triclamp to grab it?

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Re: Build recommendations

Post by still_stirrin » Tue Feb 14, 2017 6:15 am

Steve3730 wrote:to go from the SS 3" triclamp to the 3" copper pipe. Does the copper need to be grooved or flared at the bottom for the triclamp to grab it?
You'll need a 3" ferrule, either copper (best choice) or stainless steel (best price). Look at the Still Dragon site for ferrules.
ss
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Re: Build recommendations

Post by Steve3730 » Tue Feb 14, 2017 7:21 am

still_stirrin wrote:
Steve3730 wrote:to go from the SS 3" triclamp to the 3" copper pipe. Does the copper need to be grooved or flared at the bottom for the triclamp to grab it?
You'll need a 3" ferrule, either copper (best choice) or stainless steel (best price). Look at the Still Dragon site for ferrules.
ss
I have a 6" ferrule with a 6x3" plate reducer on it. so now I'll need a 3" copper ferrule and I can start soldering my piping on to that. correct?

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Re: Build recommendations

Post by jb-texshine » Wed Feb 15, 2017 12:26 am

Affirmative.
Remember not to blow yourself up,you only get to forget once!


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Re: Build recommendations

Post by Steve3730 » Wed Feb 15, 2017 5:34 am

sweet I will get that ordered. My CC is taking a beating but I can't wait to see this thing done with some clear liquid dripping out of it! Here is how it sits. I have the tri-clamps and reducer to go from 6" to 3" just haven't snapped a picture of it yet. Picking up the copper parts today!
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Re: Build recommendations

Post by Danespirit » Sat Feb 18, 2017 5:04 am

You MIG welded the workpieces onto the keg, which welding wire did you use...?
I ask because it's of utmost importance to use the correct wire for such a weld... :eugeek:
Should you have use wire for mild steel, this welding job is crap..and you'll have to cut it all of again....!
Cleaning the parts for ANY residue, will be required, too.

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Re: Build recommendations

Post by Steve3730 » Sun Feb 19, 2017 1:06 pm

Danespirit wrote:You MIG welded the workpieces onto the keg, which welding wire did you use...?
I ask because it's of utmost importance to use the correct wire for such a weld... :eugeek:
Should you have use wire for mild steel, this welding job is crap..and you'll have to cut it all of again....!
Cleaning the parts for ANY residue, will be required, too.
Not sure my brother took it to a place to get welded. I haven't actually seen it yet just the pictures. What should I look for on it?

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Re: Build recommendations

Post by Danespirit » Wed Feb 22, 2017 7:43 am

Well, I just looked at the welding and I immediately saw it was MIG welded.
To tell the truth...it also looks like shit...! (sorry, but that's the truth).
It looks like seagulls made a dump on it..
If the welding was done with a stainless steel thread, it's ugly but ok...(i doubt it is).
If not...the whole welding job has to be ground down. It has to be ground down, so nothing from the original welding is left....and even a bit more to clean the entrainment area of that weld.
TIG welding with an appropriate welding rod is the only way to do it correct.
I bet the amateur who welded that shit up, doesn't even know about purging gas, let alone the importance of it.
Sorry to ruin your day, but crap like that, ain't safe to use as distilling equipment.
This is how it shouldn't look..Unacceptable piece of shit. My apprentice, would get fired if he deliver such crap.
This is how it shouldn't look..Unacceptable piece of shit. My apprentice, would get fired if he deliver such crap.
Correct weld and heat.
Correct weld and heat.
Correct weld, but a little too much heat.
Correct weld, but a little too much heat.
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Re: Build recommendations

Post by Steve3730 » Thu Feb 23, 2017 5:02 pm

I appreciate the input. How it looks is no concern to me. If the weld holds and if it was welded with stainless rod so it is food safe is my only concern. I'll have to go back and ask.

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Re: Build recommendations

Post by Danespirit » Sat Feb 25, 2017 2:37 pm

Please check it out, Steve..
I don't hope you took my critique as beeing an ass, I was merely concerned about your safety.... It is of utmost importance that everything that has either contact with the product is genuine stainless steel.
Mild steel (or filler material for such) will leach into your product.
Also, if one joins stainless steel to mild steel, the corrosion of the mild steel will accelerate unbelievably.
The same thing happens when people put a stainless steel exhaust on their car, but forget about the cast iron manifold...the point where the two metals meet, will rot away in no time...bolts will seize and the nuts smolder away.

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Re: Build recommendations

Post by MrBee » Tue Feb 28, 2017 2:14 pm

It will cost more to buy copper tri clover ferrules than the SS ones but it is whole lot easier to adapt copper tube and conections to a copper ferrule than a Ss one.
Soldering is not the problem, it's matching the tube diameters. A small mistake i made cause I didnt know (but learned quick) also I could not find copper ferrules in a size less than 2".

I'm not saying ALL ferrules should be copper, just the ones that will connect to copper tube , if possible.

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Re: Build recommendations

Post by Steve3730 » Wed Mar 01, 2017 8:58 am

Update. I confirmed the SS was welded with stainless rod. So I should be good there and will know to watch for this in the future. I bought the 3" copper ferrule, this will now allow me to switch from 3" SS to Copper for my still head. The Copper part of the still will be assembled this weekend.

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Re: Build recommendations

Post by Steve3730 » Tue Mar 07, 2017 11:46 am

Copper is done. working on electrical and drain next than will be able to start testing for leaks
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Re: Build recommendations

Post by Bushman » Tue Mar 07, 2017 11:54 am

Looks good, is that stainless pipe coming out the top of the keg going to be a fill port.

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Re: Build recommendations

Post by Steve3730 » Tue Mar 07, 2017 4:09 pm

Bushman wrote:Looks good, is that stainless pipe coming out the top of the keg going to be a fill port.

Yes i put a nipple on it so I can put a SS valve on it

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Re: Build recommendations

Post by Danespirit » Thu Mar 09, 2017 9:48 am

A valve on the fill port..?
I assume it's going to be a massive one...
Do you plan any kind of support for the Liebig? (not that it necessarily needs one).
Looking good.. :thumbup:

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