Still mods.

Simple pot still distillation and construction with or without a thumper.

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CraftyZA
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Still mods.

Post by CraftyZA »

Does pot stills have any fixed formulas?
I got this column still I want to modify.
1.5m column, going up, and 1.5m liebig going down. 2 inch thick. Even at 3kw , the liebig never heats up. There is no reflux besides the little that happens due to the 1.5m column.

The idea is to reduce the primary column to the minimum.

This is the current setup.
test.jpg
I use my pool pump to circulate cold water through the liebig. Hence why the setup is next to the pool.
Last edited by CraftyZA on Tue Sep 18, 2018 10:54 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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acfixer69
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Re: Still mods.

Post by acfixer69 »

CraftyZA There is no fixed formula to follow most just put a riser high enough to raise the out put at a comfortable height. Which bring up your first mod is to remove the plastic from the condenser output. Rule #8
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still_stirrin
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Re: Still mods.

Post by still_stirrin »

Just because it's 1-1/2 meters tall doesn't make it a reflux column. It's just a potstill with a long riser. OK, you (may) get a little reflux due to ambient air cooling the riser, but without packing for the descending condensate to flow through and be reboiled by the rising hot vapors, you won't really get reflux....after all, that is what "reflux" is...the reboiling of the condensate by the rising vapors. It is what "stacks the column" with higher volatile fluids at the top and lower volatile fluids at the bottom. Also, keep in mind that fluids can be either a liquid or a vapor depending on the temperature and pressure.

With the column at 1-1/2 meters, it could very well be modified into a reflux column....provided you add a reflux condenser at the top. The side branch is the vapor take off and the vapor flows (usually downward) towards the product condenser. Your uniquely built still has the vapor tubing routed upwards before descending into the product condenser. This will cause significant resistance to the vapor flow during production....it causes the internal pressures to rise in order to overcome the elevation difference when compounded by the reduction in vapor flow area from the 2" riser to the 1/2" tube.

Notice that the branch is a Tee fitting with the top capped (for potstilll operations). If the cap was removed and a coil condenser inserted, you would (or could) use it as a condenser controlled vapor manage reflux still. If you refer to Dad300's CCVM still (search for the thread) you'll see the similarities.

Looking at the product condenser...a 2" shell over a 1/2" vapor tube...that is crazy! The condenser will hold a lot of water, making it very heavy. In a 2" shell, you could easily have four 1/2" vapor tubes in the form of a shotgun. It would be much more efficient, such that it would not need to be near as long. 24" would quite likely manage any/all heat input you put into the boiler even in a stripping run where you run "balls to the wall". What you've got just seems wasteful, expensive and awkward.

Still, the hardware has opportunity to redesign and rebuild, making it better, more efficient, and easier to run. We can discuss more, if you'd like.
ss

p.s. - don't post pictures on an outside server...they'll disappear at some point when you quit paying the bills on that service. Resize the photos and post them on this site. That way they'll stay with the thread so follow on readers will know what you're talking about....when they ask the same questions! :crazy:
My LM/VM & Potstill: My build thread
My Cadco hotplate modification thread: Hotplate Build
My stock pot gin still: stock pot potstill
My 5-grain Bourbon recipe: Special K
CraftyZA
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Re: Still mods.

Post by CraftyZA »

The reason I want to reduce it is because the abv is still to high. On a run with the full 3kw it still comes out at 70%.
On a proper pot still i should be getting 35-40%
I only make brandy and “mampoer”, so getting all the flavour is what it is about.
I wanted to do 2 runs, but with the final result sitting at 55, another run will remove too much flavour.
Ideally, the second run should end at 60%. That way i will retain all the flavour.
Because this was the 1st run, I did not make cuts. That was a mistake.
I’m thinking i should save what is left in the still, and mix it withy product and run it really fast. Gas and electricity fast.
CraftyZA
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Still mods.

Post by CraftyZA »

Mod that edited my post. It was medical grade silicone, not plastic. Silicone = inert.

https://afrimedics.co.za/product/silico ... l-suction/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

https://www.forbes.com/sites/kateharris ... 70182571f4" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow



do not repost it you have been warned

While not a “100% natural” material like rubber, food-grade silicone is a non-toxic polymer mostly made from silica (sand). It can withstand heating and freezing without leaching or off-gassing, hazardous chemicals – unlike plastics, which contaminate food in these environments. It is also odor- and stain-resistant, hypoallergenic, and because of it’s smooth surface, very easy to clean. For these reasons, and because it is soft life rubber and does not break, it is the perfect material for eco-friendly and non-toxic baby products in particular.
CraftyZA
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Still mods.

Post by CraftyZA »

still_stirrin wrote:
p.s. - don't post pictures on an outside server...they'll disappear at some point when you quit paying the bills on that service. Resize the photos and post them on this site. That way they'll stay with the thread so follow on readers will know what you're talking about....when they ask the same questions! :crazy:
Just need to figure out how to do that on tapatalk.

Thanks for the comprehensive reply!
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still_stirrin
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Re: Still mods.

Post by still_stirrin »

CraftyZA wrote:The reason I want to reduce it is because the abv is still to high. On a run with the full 3kw it still comes out at 70%.
This is what I’d expect as the “high proof” for the start of a spirit run from a potstill. But, the purity will decline throughout the run from there.
CraftyZA wrote:...On a proper pot still i should be getting 35-40% <— is this what you want in the “collection jar” or for your “hearts cut”? I only make brandy and “mampoer”, so getting all the flavour is what it is about. I wanted to do 2 runs, but with the final result sitting at 55 (%ABV) <— you should be able to do this with a potstill. No need for reflux at all.
...another run will remove too much flavour. Ideally, the second run should end at 60%. That way i will retain all the flavour.
So, cut down the tower height, eliminate all packing (if you have any) and increase the diameter of the vapor tube from 1/2” to 1”. It’ll produce faster and carry more flavor. Strip the wash fast and collect in 1 jug until the collection is 30%ABV. Then, add back to the boiler and do your spirit run (with a steady pencil lead stream) and collect in a dozen, or more jars. Make your cuts good and you’ll have a flavorful spirit at 120-140 proof for aging.

You don’t need that tall tower. And if you increase the vapor tube diameter, it’ll run faster and carry more flavors over.
ss
My LM/VM & Potstill: My build thread
My Cadco hotplate modification thread: Hotplate Build
My stock pot gin still: stock pot potstill
My 5-grain Bourbon recipe: Special K
CraftyZA
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Posts: 40
Joined: Wed Dec 23, 2015 10:16 pm

Re: Still mods.

Post by CraftyZA »

still_stirrin wrote:
CraftyZA wrote:The reason I want to reduce it is because the abv is still to high. On a run with the full 3kw it still comes out at 70%.
This is what I’d expect as the “high proof” for the start of a spirit run from a potstill. But, the purity will decline throughout the run from there.
CraftyZA wrote:...On a proper pot still i should be getting 35-40% <— is this what you want in the “collection jar” or for your “hearts cut”? I only make brandy and “mampoer”, so getting all the flavour is what it is about. I wanted to do 2 runs, but with the final result sitting at 55 (%ABV) <— you should be able to do this with a potstill. No need for reflux at all.
...another run will remove too much flavour. Ideally, the second run should end at 60%. That way i will retain all the flavour.
So, cut down the tower height, eliminate all packing (if you have any) and increase the diameter of the vapor tube from 1/2” to 1”. It’ll produce faster and carry more flavor. Strip the wash fast and collect in 1 jug until the collection is 30%ABV. Then, add back to the boiler and do your spirit run (with a steady pencil lead stream) and collect in a dozen, or more jars. Make your cuts good and you’ll have a flavorful spirit at 120-140 proof for aging.

You don’t need that tall tower. And if you increase the vapor tube diameter, it’ll run faster and carry more flavors over.
ss
Thanks.
I got this still for free from a buddy that immigrated to canada.
I think i will build a new one with some of the suggestions. I like the shotgun idea, and thicker vapour conduits.
CraftyZA
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Re: Still mods.

Post by CraftyZA »

[quote="still_stirrin"<— is this what you want in the “collection jar” or for your “hearts cut”?[/b] I[/quote]
My collection jar sita at 50%
Once the distillate reached 30% it tasted like nothing. That is where i killed it.
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acfixer69
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Re: Still mods.

Post by acfixer69 »

CraftyZA wrote:Mod that edited my post. It was medical grade silicone, not plastic. Silicone = inert.

https://afrimedics.co.za/product/silico ... l-suction/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

https://www.forbes.com/sites/kateharris ... 70182571f4" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow



h

While not a “100% natural” material like rubber, food-grade silicone is a non-toxic polymer mostly made from silica (sand). It can withstand heating and freezing without leaching or off-gassing, hazardous chemicals – unlike plastics, which contaminate food in these environments. It is also odor- and stain-resistant, hypoallergenic, and because of it’s smooth surface, very easy to clean. For these reasons, and because it is soft life rubber and does not break, it is the perfect material for eco-friendly and non-toxic baby products in particular.
It is not allowed at HD. rule #8 is clear so don't bring it here. What you do at home is your business.
CraftyZA
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Posts: 40
Joined: Wed Dec 23, 2015 10:16 pm

Still mods.

Post by CraftyZA »

acfixer69 wrote:
CraftyZA wrote:Mod that edited my post. It was medical grade silicone, not plastic. Silicone = inert.

https://afrimedics.co.za/product/silico ... l-suction/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

https://www.forbes.com/sites/kateharris ... 70182571f4" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow



h

While not a “100% natural” material like rubber, food-grade silicone is a non-toxic polymer mostly made from silica (sand). It can withstand heating and freezing without leaching or off-gassing, hazardous chemicals – unlike plastics, which contaminate food in these environments. It is also odor- and stain-resistant, hypoallergenic, and because of it’s smooth surface, very easy to clean. For these reasons, and because it is soft life rubber and does not break, it is the perfect material for eco-friendly and non-toxic baby products in particular.
It is not allowed at HD. rule #8 is clear so don't bring it here. What you do at home is your business.
Removed the pipe. Will repost image in a bit.
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