I have been thinking about adding a thumper made from a 1/6bbl keg I have laying around. The main boiler is a 1/2bbl. currently the vapor output is 1/2" copper. Will that be a sufficient size to feed the thumper?
Second question: I would like to bring the vapor output of the thumper back up higher to make it easier to fit the condenser and keep everything at a resonable working level. Essentially the thumper would get a head much like the main boiler, perhaps a little taller. Would creating a tall column here be an issue?
It seems as though it should all work but before I build it i'd like to make sure I'm on the correct path.
excuse my drawing skills but this is what I have in mind:
I’m sure it will work fine . Sure larger is better but the reality is you can only use as much power as your liebig can cope with and thats 1/2” ...... not saying that in a bad way . 1/2” is fine for most practical stuff on a keg . Unless you are going to stick rediculous amounts of flame under it , you’ll be fine IMO .
Larger sizes are less likely to get blocked and are more rigid .
it will definitely work, but if he can upgrade he should. back pressure creating higher boiling temps possibly having an effect on product quality would be my main concern. ala still stirrins explanation in the thread i linked.
also yummy can you link me to your thumper stripper thread again i was looking but couldnt remember what it was called
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Thumper wrote:...Essentially the thumper would get a head much like the main boiler, perhaps a little taller. Would creating a tall column here be an issue?
Sure, put a riser on the vapor outlet from you thumper. It’ll work fine, but I wonder why you have a riser on your boiler? What does that do for you? Is it just for the geometry, or do you actually believe it helps with the purity?
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Thanks Allmyexsliveinhell, I had found those threads and they are helpful. Like the layout on your still. One of the goals for this build is for everything to be modular. What I will probably end up doing is running 1" off the still to the thumper and then 1" out of the thumper. I'll just adapt my liebeg to the 1" threaded coupler.
Sure, put a riser on the vapor outlet from you thumper. It’ll work fine, but I wonder why you have a riser on your boiler? What does that do for you? Is it just for the geometry, or do you actually believe it helps with the purity?
My understanding is its just for geometry. I just used the shortest pre-cut piece I could source locally.
Hi Thumper. It sounds like you are also going to make some changes to your Pot Head for a larger vapor path and also want to make things modular, so I figured I would make a recommendation on a design change for you.
Make both of your vapor path outputs, vapor path input to thumper, and vapor path input to your product condenser horizontal. Then make a Thumper arm (pot to Thumper) using an elbow at each end to match up the input/output. Also, make that arm a little longer than necessary. If you do this, you don’t have to worry about differing elevations or getting your vertical heights exactly right to match. Your PC can also be swapped between the pot only or the thumper and adjusted for angle. Note, if you do this be sure to get the angle of your Liebig cooling water I/O to the angle you want when you solder on the Union. (Maybe pointed down to prevent hose kinks?)
Be sure that you standardize union gender too. Always use the ball (male) end for vapor out, and cup (female) end for vapor in.
If that did not make sense, look at my Pot and Thumper build to see an example of what I’m talking about.
Otis’ Pot and Thumper: viewtopic.php?f=16&t=70230
Be sure that you standardize union gender too. Always use the ball (male) end for vapor out, and cup (female) end for vapor in.
Also , don't make up verticle union joints and solder in place unless you are a plumber .
It's a bitch to unstick male and female union members after you overheated and soldered the union together .
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