Clawhammer Modifications

[CoonBone]

Hey, I’m new to the forum but have done tons of reading thus far. I have a 10gal. Clawhammer pot and have some ?’s about some ideas I’m throwing around. First being, could you wind a coil around the top few inches of the column and pump water through it post condenser (maybe T the output and add a couple valves to adjust flow) to gain some reflux action (column height may make this impossible anyway?) as I can’t see the copper packing they recommend having much use after they get up to temp (maybe some very passive reflux at best idk) I’m not looking to make a neutral spirit just increase proof a little. I don’t have much experience and these are just things going through my head so I could be totally off point.

[StillerBoy]

A picture of the column would be of assistance in helping out..

Mars

[Tummydoc]

Its a copper pot still with a 1.5 inch riser, about 8-10 inches long as i recall. An external coil has been done on other stills and works some, but not the most efficient. You are correct that the copper packing doesn't add much without reflux. They are misleading in their advertising.

[still_stirrin]

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Is this it?

I’d suggest doing 1.5 runs —> a strip (low wines) added back to fresh wash for the 2nd run to boost proof off the spout while retaining as much flavor as possible.

That still doesn’t add much, if any, reflux. So, just do 1.5 or double distillations (strip + spirit runs).
ss

[still_stirrin]

I might add, for the 1.5 run protocol, you’ll need at least 1-1/2 boiler charges worth of ferment. And for the 2X protocol, it’s best to ferment 3 boiler charges worth, that is - enough wash to run 3 strips followed by a final spirit run.
ss

[Durhommer]

How thick or thin is that copper still

[CoonBone]

I’ve just lightly cleaned the outside so it’s not super clean yet. I put the little union fitting in when I built it so I could add a thumper and/or different condenser later on if I decided to. It could also allow you to set whatever angle you want on the condenser (the 45 at the bottom probably would need to be changed If you wanted to do this much). It’s 16oz Copper except for the bottom of the boiler and plate where the column attaches, those are a little thicker. I’m not sure what they are but could notice a difference when I was building it. The tubing and fittings aren’t 16oz either. The column is pretty thick and .5” stuff is the cheaper kind when you go to the hardware store from what I can tell. I’m totally happy with it though as far as materials. If I cut it out myself I’d go a little thicker on the boiler because it you drop it or something it would probably dent it. Oh yeah, the column itself is 20”. The stripping/spirit run is how I’m going to start off then I might add one just to see if it does anything to justify it being there. I’m too new to know what to expect.

Column

Column and Pot

[8Ball]

I have a 5G Clawhammer. I added 24 inches of Liebig to it. I also added a copper tube brace between the condenser and column for stability when removing from the boiler. I use one scrubber only at the bottom of the column. If you strip and spirit, then you will have no problem gettin good product at aging strength. Once you have it figured out, running it is pretty smooth. Just takes time and practice.

[CoonBone]

Yeah, I can see why the brace would be helpful.

[8Ball]

Yeah, I can see why the brace would be helpful.

Without it the solder joint at the bottom of the column will fail. It also provides support for additional Liebig. If you add on using a 45-degree fitting, you will have a win-win result: improved cooling and a SAFER operation by increasing the distance between the drip and open flames if using propane. I tie off the top of the condenser with para cord to support the added weight of the second Liebig as well.