Building a Pot Still

[ursusmaritimus85]

Hey all.

I have upgraded from an AirStill (it lasted for 3 washes) to a PD reflux.
I moved quickly from a turbo to a TPW and now typically throw down a Kale wash and am about to try a UJSSM

I aim to make varying styles of spirits and am looking at building my own 2' pot still. I definetly like moonshiner67's still design and there are a couple on EBay that also look simple / easy to make.

I have considered removing the packing from my PD still to make a pseudo still but this appears from all reports to pretty much be a waste of time and I might as well make the right thing.

Its a pain that the PD boiler has a 60mm hole in the lid to accomodate the still so I have to purchase a seperate 310mm lid for the boiler to accomodate a 2" pot still ( oro pay $450 for a PD pot still)

I have a list - from the attached photo - is there anything else you think I may have missed??

ebay pot still

500mm 50mm copper pipe
90 deg bend (50mm)
50mm to 20mm reducer
20mm to 15mm reducer
20mm M joiner
20mm F joiner
15 mm 90 deg bend
Male BSP to 15mm (brass?)
15x15x20mm tee
600mm 15mm pipe
500mm 20mm pipe (water jacket)
15x15x20mm tee
Male BSP to 15mm (brass?)

Other items
Copper slip joint for 50mm pipe (tri clover)
Gasket
Weldless bulkhead

Flux (lead free)
Solder (lead free)
Turbo lid (47mm hole) for boiler


I cant for the life of me find where moonshiner67 got his sanitary couplings (i am in australia) so im leaning more towards the threaded connection - will jsut have to replace teflon tape ebvery time still is pulled apart but this is cheap.

The only brass is the BSP attachment and this is out of the vapour path

I have been watching videos on how to solder online- I havent come across any instructional videos on how to make a pot still like the attached photograph-

I think I am almost ready - any tips greatly appreciated

[Yummyrum]

You can get Tri-clamp ferrules and gaskets from Emptyglass at Copper Custom Still Components. He’s got Stainless ones and also pressed copper ones which solder on very nicely .

I would strongly recommend going down the tri-clamp path with all your Distilling parts as it has become the defacto method of joining Home distillation parts .

Personally I would make that Liebig about twice as long . Trust me , you will understand in a few years .

[still_stirrin]

Personally I would make that Liebig about twice as long . Trust me , you will understand in a few years .

+1.

But, if THAT condenser is already built, you could make another one with union fittings on both ends of the vapor tube along with an elbow at each end. Then, simply connect the “new condenser” between the potstill head and the “other” condenser, basically connecting the two condensers in series. You’ll increase the effective condenser section with two condensers and you can adjust the angle of the output of each section such that the outlet is convenient.

A creative solution to a design shortfall.
ss

[FLOB]

I'm a newb, but I have learned that being able to control the flow of water leaving the leibig is very helpful. I do it with a ball valve.

[Yummyrum]

I'm a newb, but I have learned that being able to control the flow of water leaving the leibig is very helpful. I do it with a ball valve.

Good pickup FLOB

Also looking at that pic , the hoses are coming out the side . It is common for exit water hose to kink when its hot .(Causes a lose of coolant flow —— bad thing )
Best to have hoses coming straight down if possible .Or attach right-angle adapters to the pictured version.