Beer keg pot design question

Simple pot still distillation and construction with or without a thumper.

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Plumberjohn
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Beer keg pot design question

Post by Plumberjohn »

Im wanting to put an old beer keg back into service as a still pot. Ive seen some designs where a 4" sanitary was installed on the side of the keg. Ive also seen where folks have replaced the 2" top flange with a 4" sanitary so it doubled as a clean out.
My question, is there any distilling advantages or disadvantages to using a 4" column as opposed to a 2" column on this size pot?
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zed255
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Re: Beer keg pot design question

Post by zed255 »

Short answer (and a fairly common question too) is no. I use a 6" ferrule on my keg for accessing the interior and use a cap reducer to put whatever I need on top. I like 2" for pot stilling mainly because it is sturdy without being grossly oversized, but it isn't really necessary that you use even that large.
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Plumberjohn
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Re: Beer keg pot design question

Post by Plumberjohn »

My main reason for the larger opening is for cleaning purposes so I guess its a preference choice as to having it on the side or top. Im trying to decide on a final design before drilling, cutting and welding.
Thank you for your insight!
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Saltbush Bill
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Re: Beer keg pot design question

Post by Saltbush Bill »

You really dont need a large opening for cleaning......mostly boilers only need a quick rinse out with a hose.
Lots of people have run the original size keg hole for many years without a problem.
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Tummydoc
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Re: Beer keg pot design question

Post by Tummydoc »

I've never seen the clean out on the side. Off center on top is easiest and works as a fill port and clean out. Also allows you to keep column mounted. Don't forget a drain port on the bottom or lower edge of side.

Bill is right, I fill, drain, and hook column to the original Sanke. But if I could TIG ......
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Twisted Brick
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Re: Beer keg pot design question

Post by Twisted Brick »

Plumberjohn wrote: Sun Mar 14, 2021 7:43 am Im wanting to put an old beer keg back into service as a still pot. Ive seen some designs where a 4" sanitary was installed on the side of the keg. Ive also seen where folks have replaced the 2" top flange with a 4" sanitary so it doubled as a clean out.
My question, is there any distilling advantages or disadvantages to using a 4" column as opposed to a 2" column on this size pot?
Cleaning/filling benefits aside, a 4" ferrule provides the ability to run different-sized riser/columns, an un-restricted riser for a downtube if you someday convert it to a thumper, and lastly, not having to fiddle with the half-assed gasket like the one I have on my unmolested 2" keg.

I originally thought of adding a 4" to the side of my keg like Badmotivator did, but instead went with a 6" on top (my arm won't fit in a 4"). I upgraded for the reasons above, but also because I suffered a second scorched (minor) strip run and removing the burnt carbon ring (I run NG) was a PITA.

The biggest disadvantage to 4" and larger ferrules and the pipe/fittings that go with them is cost. The other disadvantage is that once you've modified it, you can't revert to using your keg for its original function.

For those who elect to invest in upgrades (ie: ferrules, fill ports, drains, etc) these seemingly unnecessary improvements can translate to more-streamlined processes and a shorter distilling day.

4" ferrule
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The Baker
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Re: Beer keg pot design question

Post by The Baker »

Many turn the keg over, use the 2" fitting for a drain and put a 4" or even a 6" in the (now) top.
More suited to electric than gas.

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Re: Beer keg pot design question

Post by tiramisu »

The downside of upside down is you lose the practicality of the handles if you are going to put a big port on top and put your pieces inside.
I'm still headed down the upside down route for ease of drainage but it is a compromise.
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Re: Beer keg pot design question

Post by Plumberjohn »

Thanks folks, i appreciate the different views.
Im at an age now that if there is something that will make things easier im all for it.
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Re: Beer keg pot design question

Post by stmaus »

The only mod I made to my keg was a hole in the side for the element. I have no problem cleaning my keg, by just sticking a hose in the top (as Saltbush Bill noted).
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Re: Beer keg pot design question

Post by Plumberjohn »

Thank you all, I had a lot to brood over. I think im going to weld a 4" ferrule in place of the original 2" keg flange. I see where i can buy a 4"x2" end cap reducer which would give me the 4" access id like and a better 2" flange to work with. Going to 4" seems to give me more options even if i never use them its nice to know they are available.
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Re: Beer keg pot design question

Post by Plumberjohn »

So, this is what i finally decided on for my pot. I went with 4" on top and 2-1.5" on the front. 4" gives me size choices up and down. I also picked up a few other goodies over the past year and refined my condenser coil some. Pardon the junk in the spare room.
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Re: Beer keg pot design question

Post by Toxxyc »

I actually had this discussion with a commercial distiller (small craft gin maker) over the weekend. He said that a 4" column on top of the still runs 4x more vapour than a 2", which means 4x faster stripping runs than a 2" if you're stripping. That might be worth it. I have a 2" on top of mine, and I'm considering either cutting it open to 4", or getting a 2" to 4" adapter to get a bigger column on top for stripping runs.
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Re: Beer keg pot design question

Post by EricTheRed »

i use my 2" for potstill runs and the 3" for stripping and reflux - seems to work well
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Saltbush Bill
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Re: Beer keg pot design question

Post by Saltbush Bill »

Toxxyc wrote: Wed Dec 08, 2021 10:02 pm He said that a 4" column on top of the still runs 4x more vapour than a 2", which means 4x faster stripping runs than a 2" if you're stripping.
Not unless you put a heap more heat under it as well , size alone wont help.
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Re: Beer keg pot design question

Post by BrewinBrian44 »

I read quite a bit on here and elected to do the upside down method, but welded on a 2” tri clamp ferrule for a clean gasket fitment instead of the standard flange. I also use a 4” ferrule on top with a reducer depending on what one doing. The beauty of using the top of the keg as a drain is because you can let gravity do the work and easily drain your keg without wrestling around with it to pour out the remaining liquid. I have a Blichmann riptide pump I use for everything and it works great to drain the boiling hot keg right after a run without any lifting. I even do my final hot water rinse with the pump turned on and never have to lift the hot keg.
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Re: Beer keg pot design question

Post by Toxxyc »

Saltbush Bill wrote: Wed Dec 08, 2021 11:05 pm
Toxxyc wrote: Wed Dec 08, 2021 10:02 pm He said that a 4" column on top of the still runs 4x more vapour than a 2", which means 4x faster stripping runs than a 2" if you're stripping.
Not unless you put a heap more heat under it as well , size alone wont help.
True, but I'm stripping at less than the max of the element anyway, so I'm sure I can boost that quite a bit. If I can't - I can just swap out the element with a bigger one! :D
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