Best fitting for connecting riser to boiler?

[ThomasBrewer]

Looks OK for a first try, but I'd cut it off and do it again (with an annealing) now that you have some experience. It's a much more pleasant experience if you anneal first and take your time.

[Asos21]

Looks OK for a first try, but I'd cut it off and do it again (with an annealing) now that you have some experience. It's a much more pleasant experience if you anneal first and take your time.

Yeah I know what you mean. It's functional and I think it would work but it's definitely not aesthetically pleasing! And I would definitely want something that I'm going to be proud of building. I'll cut it off, anneal and have another shot at it.

Didn't want to create s new thread for this but does anyone know if it's okay to use solder ring copper fittings? Thinking of adding a few pre soldered fittings to the setup to save on solder a little. It would also cut down on MAPP gas as that stuff is ridiculously expensive here for how long they last!

[ThomasBrewer]

Didn't want to create s new thread for this but does anyone know if it's okay to use solder ring copper fittings? Thinking of adding a few pre soldered fittings to the setup to save on solder a little. It would also cut down on MAPP gas as that stuff is ridiculously expensive here for how long they last!

Yes, modern Yorkshire fittings have lead-free solder rings. Clean the joint well and use Flux for best results.

[cob]

Posting this link so you will have some idea what is actually possible, and possibly spark some ideas.

https://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtop ... 50&t=78431

[Asos21]

The build has turned into an absolute mess.

The 28mm solder ring copper reducers don't fit on my 28mm Pipe!

The mapp gas and torch combo I bought don't even fit together. The threads on the torch don't even reach the threads on the cylinder in order to screw them together.

Close to abandoning ship on this project. Because Ive already spent more than it would have cost me for a new t500 with reflux column.

[NormandieStill]

For the MAPP stuff I'm guessing that you've somehow managed to acquire a European threaded torch or bottle. I had lots of grief with getting MAPP bottles here because they won't fit my torch. And the adapter that I bought just seems to cause a gas leak. You should be able to take one or both back and exchange it.

I'm not quite sure what you mean by solder ring reducer, but are you sure you don't have a M to F reducer as opposed to a F to M or F to F? You do really have to plan out copper fittings to make sure that you end up with the right "gender" in the right places.

[Asos21]

For the MAPP stuff I'm guessing that you've somehow managed to acquire a European threaded torch or bottle. I had lots of grief with getting MAPP bottles here because they won't fit my torch. And the adapter that I bought just seems to cause a gas leak. You should be able to take one or both back and exchange it.

I'm not quite sure what you mean by solder ring reducer, but are you sure you don't have a M to F reducer as opposed to a F to M or F to F? You do really have to plan out copper fittings to make sure that you end up with the right "gender" in the right places.

I totally get what you are saying with the European MAPP bottles.but the MAPP bottle was bought from the same eBay seller in a combo deal with the torch so I can't think of any reason why we would have compatibility issues! So now I've got to return both items and order fresh from another seller. That's probably another 2-3 weeks delay with the Christmas post delays.

The fittings are Yorkshire solder ring copper reducers. I get what you mean about the M and F. But they don't fit inside or outside the 28mm copper pipe! They honestly look nothing like 28mm.

Honestly feel like scrapping this and buying a T500. Though I know I'll instantly regret it afterwards!

[NormandieStill]

Can you get any of these parts or tools locally? When I was building bikes in the UK I used to get odd specialist metalworking tools from Machine Mart, and everything else can from B+Q (Or Homebase I honestly don't remember). Certainly my MAPP torch and bottles all came from one of the DIY stores.

Standard pipe fittings and a little roll of lead-free solder might actually be cheaper than buying Yorkshire fittings and at least you know where you stand,

With regard to M and F fittings, pipe is M. So if you have a M fitting it won't fit over a piece of pipe. A fitting which is M and F effectively takes you back down to pipe in order to be able to fit another fitting. A FF will let you connect two pieces of pipe. Not sure how a Yorkshire fitting would have a solder ring at the M end though.

[Asos21]

Just realized today that I can actually drill the lid out to 1.5 inch. So that would definitely open up the options to installing a 38mm 1.5 inch weldless Tri clamp bulkhead.

Could I connect them up like this

1.5 inch weldless Tri clamp bulkhead in lid connected to a 1.5 inch Tri clamp to 1/2 inch hose barb. Then the 1/2 inch hose barb soldered directly to the 15mm copper condenser pipe?

Would that work? Would it be possible to connect a 1/2 inch SS hose barb to 15mm copper pipe? Google seems to suggest that 1/2 inch can be connected to 15mm pipe but I don't want to buy a bunch of fittings and waste the cash! Plus I'm honestly getting sick of returning parts!
https://gbr.grandado.com/products/1-5-t ... TwEALw_wcB
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-5-Tri-Clam ... 635-2958-0

[Asos21]

But on second thought that would mean after adding both fittings the actual opening of my boiler would be 12.7mm. not much better than the 10mm that we just discussed in a previous thread!

That's going to be too small isn't it?

[EricTheRed]

2" bulkhead triclamp
Get 2 x copper ferrules and solder onto 2" copper pipe.
Add in a ss 90° at the top of the column
Get another copper ferule, solder to one end of a short section of 2" pipe
Get a 2" to 1/2" reducer. Or 3/4"
Now you have options for running as potstill or build a reflux head of your choice
Even choice of putting 3" column later

From there to whatever condensor.

[Fletching]

I just used this triclamp bulkhead fitting on mine and it worked really well with no leaks. (See my signature for the thread with pics) They have a 1.5” option too.

Just make sure to replace the silicone gaskets with either Teflon gaskets, or cardboard wrapped in Teflon (everlasting gasket)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B08P6MQH ... asin_image

[Asos21]

2" bulkhead triclamp
Get 2 x copper ferrules and solder onto 2" copper pipe.
Add in a ss 90° at the top of the column
Get another copper ferule, solder to one end of a short section of 2" pipe
Get a 2" to 1/2" reducer. Or 3/4"
Now you have options for running as potstill or build a reflux head of your choice
Even choice of putting 3" column later

From there to whatever condensor.

While this sounds like an excellent idea for a reflux still it's just not economical whatsoever for a pot still build.

Have you seen the cost of 2" copper pipe?

Again for a reflux still this would of course be a reasonable purchase. But for a pot still which just doesn't require it?

[Asos21]

I just used this triclamp bulkhead fitting on mine and it worked really well with no leaks. (See my signature for the thread with pics) They have a 1.5” option too.

Just make sure to replace the silicone gaskets with either Teflon gaskets, or cardboard wrapped in Teflon (everlasting gasket)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B08P6MQH ... asin_image

Yes honestly I'm looking at using the 1.5 inch one.

But my biggest issue is now to reduce this down to 15mm pipe for my condenser. I seen a 1.5 inch to 1/2 inch Tri clamp to hose barb. But I'm not sure if a 12mm hose barb would fit in a 15mm copper pipe for soldering. Plus this would reduce my boiler output down to 12mm with a larger 15mm over 28mm condenser.

[EricTheRed]

2" bulkhead triclamp
Get 2 x copper ferrules and solder onto 2" copper pipe.
Add in a ss 90° at the top of the column
Get another copper ferule, solder to one end of a short section of 2" pipe
Get a 2" to 1/2" reducer. Or 3/4"
Now you have options for running as potstill or build a reflux head of your choice
Even choice of putting 3" column later

From there to whatever condensor.

While this sounds like an excellent idea for a reflux still it's just not economical whatsoever for a pot still build.

Have you seen the cost of 2" copper pipe?

Again for a reflux still this would of course be a reasonable purchase. But for a pot still which just doesn't require it?

well - can always use SS riser's

As to reducing down to whatever size, once you have a piece of copper (speak to a local plumber for 6") you can buy all the fittings you need to reduce it to whatever.

I run a modular system which lets me setup what i want, 2" riser, 3" riser, with or without Defalg, and my 2" to 1/2 thread is SS

copper threaded fitting on there and you are done

Sometimes, saving a few bucks is just not worth it

[fzbwfk9r]

What I did:
I took a 2" pressure coupler, anealed it, and using a square edge on a heavy piece of steel, I made a 90* outside flange.
I cut a hole and soldered that over the hole.
2" pipe then just slides into place

What I will do differently for my next one:
I will use a pressure cap.
I will NOT cut a hole in my dome
I WILL solder the cap in place on the dome
I will drill 3mm holes, as many as I can fit, through the cap/dome
Now, when I slide my pipe into the cap, any packing I introduce will NOT fall through.
a small wooden brace from lyne arm to pot handle for support!
Easy Peasy.
NO large hole to cut
NO bashing copper
NO annealing
Options to install different columns