Modular build

Vapor, Liquid or Cooling Management. Flutes, plates, etc.

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Ben
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Modular build

Post by Ben »

Welcome to my modular still build.

First thing I tackled is the product condenser. I did this because I wanted to get a feel for TIG welding copper and heli-brazing copper to stainless. It didn't turn out great but it is vapor tight and functional. Internals are 4 24x1/2" tubes.
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I just used some 16 ga scrap sheet I got from the recycler, laid out 4 circles, laid out the drill holes, drilled, then cut them out. I cut 2 of the circles in half for flow baffles, they got tacked in place since they didn't need to be fully welded.

Zapped it together with the TIG, stuffed it in the parent tube and welded it together, then brazed on the 1/2" fittings (so I can use the same camlocks as the brewery) and the 2" tri-clamp fittings.
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:)
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Re: Modular build

Post by Ben »

Next I started on the vessel:

I cut the bottom ring off
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Ground things down using a heavy grinding disc, followed by a flap wheel, then hammered some of a dent out.
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Since I didn't have a 6" hole saw I blew the big hole out with a plasma cutter.
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Why a 6" hole? So I can reach my arm inside to clean things out comfortably. Why in the bottom? Because the surface is nicer for welding, and the flange in the top of the keg will work for a drain so I don't have to lift the thing when it is full of soup.
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Welded on the tri-clamp for the heating element, and a nut for the temp probe (so I can just use my brewery controller for the control system)
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Welded on the top 6" fitting for the column adapter
:)
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Ben
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Re: Modular build

Post by Ben »

Then made up a couple of elbows and a 2"-1" adapter with tri clamp.
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So once all of this is assembled I get a basic pot still. That's where it sets now. I have some more learning to do, and want to start on a pot.

Once I get the shotgun built for the column I will post more.
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:)
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Re: Modular build

Post by acfixer69 »

You are looking good with the build. I was all in till the temp probe for controller. You can't distill by temperature. If your controller has a manual override to control % power in you will be able to use it. The probe will not be needed for that. Looks fine nice welding. http://www.kelleybarts.com/PhotoXfer/Re ... gMyth.html Check this out if you don't understand.
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Why TIG

Post by Ben »

So why did I weld it instead of solder?
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For me it's economics, silver solder is pretty expensive, I can buy a pound of silicon bronze brazing rod for ~$20, and so far I have used about an ounce on the whole build. When attaching copper to copper I can just use romex or scrap. On the overlapping joints I don't even use filler, just melt, flow and move fast. It's also pretty, and I don't have to clean up solder mess. If I don't overheat the copper it is just a quick soak in heated Star-San mix and polish if I choose to.
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Re: Modular build

Post by Ben »

The probe is not there for control, strictly observation, and because I had an extra probe and fitting. It also allows me to set a timed pre-heat. I can just set the controller to whatever temp and walk away, or work with other things in the brewery, then when I am ready to work with it and focus I can set the controller to 100% and start a run. It's simply a convenience item, saves me some time. Same reason I am running a 5500w element when I will be doing 5 - 6 gallons of mash at a time. I don't want to sit around and wait for things to come to temp, I can be working on the next mash, or polishing my nuts and bolts while this is doing its thing.
Last edited by Ben on Wed Sep 01, 2021 5:10 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Modular build

Post by OtisT »

Build is looking good Ben. Are you planning to weld legs on your still or just set up it on a stand? Gonna need something to create some space for jars under that shotgun, or add a section of riser.

+1 on the copper TIG welding over solder. It does look nice.

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Re: Modular build

Post by Ben »

I will weld legs on it, for drain convenience mostly. I will cut up the spear and braze some copper feet on it. The shotgun is adjustable outlet height, I can just loosen the tri clamp and change the angle. I can also stick on one or two of the globes for the column if I want the height to rise up. Since I have a bad back I try to make as many things as easy on myself as I can. I also have enough 4" copper to make a simple riser up to 24" long, although that does seem like a waste of copper.


And thank you for the compliments.
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Re: Modular build

Post by OtisT »

Sounds like you have a plan. :-). FYI, You can’t easily run a shotgun like that at at angle without pooling. You can minimize the pooling by orienting just one of the inner tubs to be at the lowest point, but you will still have a little pool. Those are best run vertical. Just something to be aware of. Otis
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Re: Modular build

Post by Saltbush Bill »

OtisT wrote: Wed Sep 01, 2021 5:36 pm . FYI, You can’t easily run a shotgun like that at at angle without pooling.
+1 .....pooling leads to smearing.....that is the last thing you want.
A decent size liebig is more than adequate on a pot still......and half the work and cost to build.
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Re: Modular build

Post by Ben »

OtisT wrote: Wed Sep 01, 2021 5:36 pm Sounds like you have a plan. :-). FYI, You can’t easily run a shotgun like that at at angle without pooling. You can minimize the pooling by orienting just one of the inner tubs to be at the lowest point, but you will still have a little pool. Those are best run vertical. Just something to be aware of. Otis
Thank you, I was unaware of that. Easy enough, I will build legs and an extension :)
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Re: Modular build

Post by still_stirrin »

You got some SKILLS, Ben. Great job!
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Re: Modular build

Post by bunny »

Ben wrote: Wed Sep 01, 2021 4:46 pm
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Just curious,
With the weld at the end of the copper attached to the stainless, is there any concern about collecting crud in the space between the pipes where usually it would be filled with solder? The same situation (gap) exists between the copper tubes. No? Is this no big deal?
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Re: Modular build

Post by Ben »

I'm sure it could be, it's going to be flushed with foreshots and undrinkables at the beginning of every run so I don't know if I need be concerned. I am also not sure that solder would fill that completely. Since this isn't a commercial vessel and doesn't have to be certified for anything I am not going to "sweat" it (that's a pun... you know sweating/soldering copper).

If I am wrong hopefully someone corrects me before I drink the poison :) I suppose in a perfect world this would be all butt welded and polished inside, I just don't see the point. I am going to be pushing 170° vapor that is a high concentration of alcohol through here, I can't see anything surviving for more than just moments. By the time I finish a run at 20% I don't think there will be much left for beasties to grow in either.

Also, this will be stored dissasembled, so it should have plenty of opportunity to dry fully.

Haha, now you got me thinking, ignorance was so blissful.
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Dephlegmator with a twist

Post by Ben »

Deflagmator in process: All that is left is to leak test the copper to copper weld on the 4" section... it gave me trouble. Once that is done a little clean and polish will go a long way. Anyway, here it is.
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You can see the layover angle, or twist. Will it help? Dunno, but it wasn't a hardship so why not.
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Nice snug fit to start, after a few heat cycles it got a little loose, but the advantage to tig welding is I don't have to have perfect joints, 1/16" is tight enough for tig.
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Used the bandsaw to trim my little projections down evenly, I left them at about 1/16" to run filler-less welds.
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Forgot to take a couple pics of various steps, but I pressure tested the core at full water pressure, fixed what needed it and welded up the ends. Top section of copper was added so I can add another thermometer :)
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I went 7, 10" 1"ID copper tubes. Yes it's a lot, possibly too much. Idea is to keep the vapor velocity as low as possible, and water volume fairly small so it "should" be fairly responsive. Hopefully the length makes up for the large tube diameter, and the twist and tube density make up for a lack of baffle (didn't feel like I needed the baffle performance upgrade). Will it be too much for plates? Will it be not enough for packing? We will see.

The lessons learned by doing the condenser first paid dividends, this was tough, and took a lot of time; but would have been a real nightmare without that experience.

To keep motivation high I started a simple sugar wash on Saturday, it has no use to me but to clean this thing, so this needs to be done by the time the yeast is done.
:)
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Re: Modular build

Post by Yummyrum »

Loving your build topic .

I also do the twist in my shottys . Not sure if it helps , but it can’t hurt :thumbup:
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Re: Modular build

Post by Tummydoc »

You might consider adding a fill port to the top of the boiler so you don't have to disassemble the column between runs. A 2 inch port and a funnel make filling easy.
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Re: Modular build

Post by Ben »

That's brilliant tummy, not something I had thought of but would be easy to integrate now. Just need to get a 2" triclamp blank or something. Maybe I can make one out of copper.
Last edited by Ben on Tue Sep 07, 2021 7:46 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Modular build

Post by Ben »

Yummyrum wrote: Mon Sep 06, 2021 11:14 pm Loving your build topic .

I also do the twist in my shottys . Not sure if it helps , but it can’t hurt :thumbup: 5E9B3819-3963-4CA5-8FFB-0198F7F0772E.jpeg
It took me a minute to realize those are not gigantic drill bits, that is a tiny thing?
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Almost functional, and legs!

Post by Ben »

Formed some legs from 1" hard tube, machine polished them so it would be easy to polish after assembly.
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Brazed them on to the vessel bottom and mocked up the full tower, 2 plates, condenser, etc. The legs need some feet pads to keep them from getting beat up and scratching stuff.
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Need to clean and polish everything, especially the pot. It is dinged up and dirty, that just character. need to come up with a drain for the bottom, and possibly a fill port, and a more sophisticated take off then it will be ready for first test: vinegar run. The 15 gallon vessel isn't the ultimate, I originally wanted to do 30, but this will get me started until I find something else. Then I can lop off the fittings and build the next thing.
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Re: Modular build

Post by Deplorable »

Thats going to be a good looking rig once its all cleaned up. :thumbup:
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Re: Modular build

Post by The Baker »

I would be inclined to (elegantly) strap the legs together nearish to the bottom.
The last thing you want is the legs splaying, and they are not VERY robust...

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Re: Modular build

Post by S-Cackalacky »

Instead of pads for the ends of the legs, think casters (wheels).
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Re: Modular build

Post by still_stirrin »

Shit Ben … your garage is waaaay too clean!!

Your still just looks “lonely” there all by itself. Virginal.
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Re: Modular build

Post by Ben »

I put it on a clean backdrop... the only clean spot is against the garage door. 2 of the 4 car spots are filled with wood and metal work tools and the walls are completely lined with tools, scrap and parts. The patio is covered in brewery equipment, ATV and elm slabs. I would love to have the whole garage that spacious, but that would mean not having piles and piles of tools, speaking of which I just picked this up today, for a song. Needs the mandrels surfaced but I know a machinist with a lathe big enough :) Finding a bigger pot will no longer be a problem, for now my little denty one will do fine.
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Casters are a thought, pretty much the whole garage is on wheels so it can be moved around easily. The pot just isn't that heavy. The heaviest part is the tower from the lower reducer to the upper, and I can just pull a tri-clamp and disconnect the dephlegmator to make it easier to manage. I also have my garage open very frequently and would rather keep the eyes and questions out, so it will be stored elsewhere. That pexto will get casters.

I don't think the leg strength will be an issue, they are 10" long, 1" pipe sections that have been worked into a curved ovoid (pre-stressed on both sides) and are generally under compression, they aren't as strong as steel but I think strong enough for a 10 gallon wash. I am a furniture maker and would usually agree with that sentiment, but as long as no one kicks one while it is full it shouldn't be a problem. It would be a sacrifice in the "aesthetic" to brace them! It may still happen, but this will be ornamental (and in a corner out of the way of toes) 6 days a week so for now I like the look.
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Re: Modular build

Post by Ben »

I ran my vinegar cleaning run, sacrificial run, and a 5 gallon run +feints of sweet feed. It was cool to see the plates load up. The speed at which this throughputs is awesome, even throttled way back. It is much more fun than my 1 gallon air still was :)
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It was fun to watch the plates load up.

My take off was between 75 and 80%. I pulled heads then 6 half pints before I started to smell tails, then just cut the reflux and ran 3 quarts of feints out of it. On jar 3 I let the plates unload by accident and it dropped down to 64%. No big deal, I learned from it. That jar had good flavor, but it was no where near as pure as #2 was, and jar 4 ended up in the feints pile, I recompressed the column at the beginning of jar 4, jar 5 was good. The feints quarts came out at 56/49/31. There is enough passive reflux I wont be able to run this as a pot without pulling plates. I will save those quarts for the next sweet feed batch. The hearts cuts actually taste like sweet feed, everything was so smeared on the little still I never really got that flavor to come through, it always tasted real headsy/tailsy. Now it is sweet, and tastes just like a feed store (take that as you will) So the flute will be a game changer. I have 10 gallons of all grain corn/rye/barley to run through it today. I am excited to see how it does on a full charge, with a quality wash. I would like to step up to more plates at some point, but these little glass guys are expensive, and I have more 4" copper so I will likely make some "less pretty" ones.

Hopefully todays run will net me more jars like #2, I will dilute that and drink it white happily.
Last edited by Ben on Sun Sep 26, 2021 6:50 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Modular build

Post by Ben »

Oh, and thanks @tummydoc
Tummydoc wrote: Tue Sep 07, 2021 12:20 am You might consider adding a fill port to the top of the boiler so you don't have to disassemble the column between runs. A 2 inch port and a funnel make filling easy.
It serves as a fill port which is convenient and allows me to get everything set up and tested before a run, but also gives me a port to open up to speed cooldown. It still takes time, but certainly less than it would if I just let it sit closed up.
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Re: Modular build

Post by Oatmeal »

Ben wrote: Sun Sep 26, 2021 6:29 am I have more 4" copper so I will likely make some "less pretty" ones.
Bahahaha. Your shotgun build looked perfect, baffles and all. They'll probably be "more pretty".....

Just 2 plates at the moment?
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Re: Modular build

Post by Ben »

Yes, 2 plates. Figured since I was doing mostly whiskey it would be good for Start.
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Re: Modular build

Post by Oatmeal »

Most people run 4 plates for a reason, I guess. I'll be working on some plates, likely for next season, so I'll learn all about it then (theoretically I'll run 3. Practically?)....

That being said, I really like the concept of being able to turn out distillate at barrel proof- your run was somewhat close.

Thanks for sharing your build, and I look forward to hearing about what you make with what you made!
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