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Hey Lurch, the coldfinger is for a 2" pipe, its pretty hard to get three inch where I am, And five feet of 2" is awkward enough as is..
The coldfinger is 1" pipe with 1/4 wrapped around it. Thats why I had to pack some copper wire around it.

The fittings are just standard aussie garden hose connectors. They make them in brass and they fit 3/8 copper perfectly.
I started with a boka and it was easy to make and worked well. I did find it hard to drive... had to make a few mods to get it running, as rad says. I didn't know how to make a liebig at the time so I did this to try to cool the output.
It helped but the output was still too hot. BTW, this is a current pic of the Boka which has stuff missing. I gave the output copper pipe to a mate to stop him using plastic....

Personally, I would do what hawke suggests and build a VM. they are great. easy to drive and produce top quality neutrals... Wish I had built one first time. Im putting some pics and info together for the VM at the moment.

+1 for VM

I found an old post that has a link to the hatstand drawing.
http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... =17&t=8722

I am new to both the forum and the distillation process. My question in looking at the various designs is that some are completely closed such as the design of the internal reflux still, however your design is open at the top of the condenser. I think I understand that the cool water will force the vapors down but won't this allow for some to escape? And is the design for safety or some other purpose?
Bushman

Bushman wrote:I am new to both the forum and the distillation process. My question in looking at the various designs is that some are completely closed such as the design of the internal reflux still, however your design is open at the top of the condenser. I think I understand that the cool water will force the vapors down but won't this allow for some to escape? And is the design for safety or some other purpose?
Bushman

If designed right, no vapor will escape from the open top, if it does you don't have enough cooling with the condenser or you are driving the boiler too hard.
Also, in full reflux mode, the output valve is closed so all distillate is going back into the column. If their isn't an escape for any preasure, it could be a problem so the top must at least have a vent hole if the condensor coil is fitted to a cap.
It took me a while to understand that also, but believe me, it works.

Stillhead:

what is the reducer/custom drip tip made from? is it a 2"-1" reducer with a bit of 1" pipe soldered in then cut and hammered into that pointy shape? im looking to do much the same thing but im thinking of just letting the 1" pipe extend up into the 2" section a bit as an overflow and having the take off ( i was thinking 1/4") drilled and soldered into the 2" section of the reducer.

No words except what a beauty your still.

stillvodka wrote:Norm,

I think you should have a real good read of this web site, http://homedistiller.org/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow , it contains almost everything you want to know to get you started.

Almost... However I didn't see anything explaining the action of a Nixon Stone still. I even googled and didn't find an answer to Norm's question. Thinking on it for a minute - does the condensation of the distillate equalize the vapor pressure? Is that how this operates?

Just realized how old that post was... But still - am I right?

austontatious wrote:Just realized how old that post was... But still - am I right?

It is possible, nothing escapes from the top of mine, but I would still not take a chance and make sure you have a vent hole. I don't use a cap, my condensor just drops in the top of the offset and is easily removed for cleaning.

Thanks for the reply!