Dephlagmator w/3way valve question

[Rastus]

dephlegmetor with 3way valve plumbing.pdf

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OK I have tried to grasp this and i have made a crude drawing with a general idea of the plumbing of a flute with a 3 way valve to the dephlag.

can anyone who has knowledge let me know if i finally got it or if it is wrong please.....

[blond_chap]

Looks right to me, you could consider putting the inlet and outlets to the condensers on opposite sides, helps with cross flow. Alternatively, I've got a baffle plate in mine.

[olddog]

I posted this link a few days ago to answer the same question. http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... 3#p6901643
the bottom cross tube is the water feed to the 3 way valve, it does not enter the main column it just terminates there and acts as a support.


OD

[Rastus]

Ok Thanks guys!

OD, the pictures were great but i couldnt get it in my head how the water inside was flowing, and how the 3 way valve would route the water but tonight i got it it seems...
i still would like to hear from you if the difference in the shotgun style dephlag and your original is worth struggling with the multiple tubes and the associated soldering problems compared to your original that is a 2" pipe through 4" reducer couplings it looks much easier to make.... if it is just as effective i like the simple one.

Blond_Chap, it is a rough drawing just to get the fluid flow established i will however place the in and out ports to maximize cooling across the cooling tube/tubes i am actually thinking to run the input from the front Low and the discharge out the back High.

Thanks again

[olddog]

Ok Thanks guys!

OD, the pictures were great but i couldnt get it in my head how the water inside was flowing, and how the 3 way valve would route the water but tonight i got it it seems...
i still would like to hear from you if the difference in the shotgun style dephlag and your original is worth struggling with the multiple tubes and the associated soldering problems compared to your original that is a 2" pipe through 4" reducer couplings it looks much easier to make.... if it is just as effective i like the simple one.

Blond_Chap, it is a rough drawing just to get the fluid flow established i will however place the in and out ports to maximize cooling across the cooling tube/tubes i am actually thinking to run the input from the front Low and the discharge out the back High.

Thanks again

A drop in shotgun dephlagmater which was used on the Flute MkII in the pics was a lot more efficient and was not prone to airlocks as the exit for the cooling water is right at the top. The original dephlegmater used on the Magic Flute used two 4"to 2"reducers one at the top and one at the bottom with a 2"tube through the center, and a 4"casing. Due to the conical shape of the reducers you could never get the top coolant exit at the top of the dephlegmater leaving a space which would never truly fill with water resulting in airlocks.
A shotgun condenser is not hard to build if you have a mapp torch, you first solder in the top and bottom plates into the casing using hard solder, then you solder the tubes into the top and bottom plates using soft solder. Using the two different types of solder with different melting points, you will not unsolder one joint while soldering the next. The other advantage of the drop in condenser is that you can test is for water tightness before mounting it in the column.

[Bushman]

Glad to hear that OD, as I have a drop in dephlagmater and it seems to work great. Another advantage when powering it with water I get 100% reflux but while collecting there is a slight gap between the column and the condenser that also acts as a path for the vapor so in theory I actually have an additional hole for vapor.

[Rastus]

Thank you very much OD,

That is exactly what i needed to hear. it makes decisions much easier...

I have been trying to find a pair of solders with different melting/ flow temps; but that is hard in this one horse town even searching on the internet i am having a hard time. i have some silver brazing rods but the difference in temps is quite vast. I will keep searching.

I have been using MAPP gas all along but when i tried to do the stainless ferrule on my 3" Boka i ended up redoing the whole thing cause the silver Braze wouldn't flow. I figure this 4" which is L grade will be a real challenge.

I have no oxy Acetylene available...

[Rastus]

not to beat a dead dephlag...

but i had another thought... about the original...

would moving the output port help as for the vapor lock?