bokakob or valved still

allen42 · Post by **allen42** » Wed Nov 28, 2007 4:26 pm

Guys I built with the help of lots of friends an interal reflx still several years ago & the sprits that comes out i am happy with & so is my friends & It isnt near as tepermental as it used to be when running the 1st few runs.
my quetion is it worth the effort to try & build a valved or a bokakob ( which I have yet to see a decent pic of ) , if it is the valaved i should go with , I have some decent plans i got off the "build a world class still site) ,but if its a bokakob that yall suggest ,then please post a link to the best site with good directions & at least drawings lol

I too am thinking of trying my hand at making corn whiskey with a modified reflux, by just screwing the reflux off & screwing teh pot still on,,,,anu thoughts ?

allen

tracker0945 · Post by **tracker0945** » Wed Nov 28, 2007 6:13 pm

http://homedistiller.org/simage/sm_mini_explained.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
This shows a pretty good photo and some measurement detail and as far as I know this is about the best info available as the bokokob designs have been mainly removed from the web.
Just use this as a basic design and change things to suit yourself.

Bsnapshot · Post by **Bsnapshot** » Wed Nov 28, 2007 6:41 pm

Allen42

I agree with you on the bokakob still I have see the plans on the parent sight and the photo is good and gives you some good measurements but it lack a parts list and detailed directions on ho to build it. I am in the process of building one now. I can do the work but if I had better directions.

I have done tons of reading on the forum and on the parent sight for the last 3 months but what the photo does not tell you is the brass night to attach the column to the sink strainer does not fit on the pipe. I been to plumbing stors, home depot and Ace hardware and no one has a nut to fit. I had to take my dermal tool to it and shave of some of the inside ring. It would have been nice to know that before and saved the running around. I am having trouble bending the condenser right now and it would be nice to have some tips in the plan how to do it. I know read the parent sight. I have and see all the threads on adding salt, heat ect but they have not worked for me. So I just sit now with a bunch of kinked tubing and other materials and no still yet.. LOL
But I do have 15 gallons of sugar wash and 15 gallons of molasses wash all fermented and ready to go.. I have learned a lot from this forum but still have a lot to learn and look forward to it.

I even email Alex AKA bokakob for some tips on his still but the answers I get back are real short.

tracker0945 · Post by **tracker0945** » Wed Nov 28, 2007 7:05 pm

Bsnapshot wrote:I am having trouble bending the condenser right now and it would be nice to have some tips in the plan how to do it. I know read the parent sight. I have and see all the threads on adding salt, heat ect but they have not worked for me. So I just sit now with a bunch of kinked tubing and other materials and no still yet.. LOL .

If the tube you have is quite easy to bend by hand you should be having no trouble.
If on the other hand it came to you as one nice long, perfectly straight piece of material you will be in trouble until you anneal (soften) it.
Also, the more times you repeatedly bend and straighten the pipe, it will work-harden and you will be required to re-anneal it.
A double wrap coil will fit a 2" column but would be pretty hard to fit more than a single wrap in a 1.5" column
PM me if you are still having trouble.

tracker0945 · Post by **tracker0945** » Wed Nov 28, 2007 9:17 pm

http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... ht=mandrel

Try this thread on bending up condensers, it may help.
Cheers

Skymeat · Post by **Skymeat** » Wed Nov 28, 2007 10:21 pm

I just made a Bokakob column.

I used 2" copper. To attach to the keg I got a 2" copper to female "C X F", and from Brewhaus a 2" male to Tri-clamp fitting, and a tri-clamp.

For the condenser I went through about 40 feet of 1/4" tubing before I figured out how to do it right. But the last 15 feet finally worked.

when I had success bending the condenser I started the first coil by wrapping the tubing around the mandrel in a very long spiral, once around the mandrel took 4 inches of mandrel space, after that I just wound it in close turns. I found that it took a good bit of strength to keep the tubing in contact with the mandrel, if it lost contact it would kink.

tracker0945 · Post by **tracker0945** » Thu Nov 29, 2007 12:38 am

Thats the way to do it alright. Keep plenty of pressure on it (can you find a friend to help you?) and everything will work out.

Skymeat · Post by **Skymeat** » Thu Nov 29, 2007 12:45 am

A little trial and error:

The winner is on the Far Left.

Post by **HookLine** » Thu Nov 29, 2007 3:23 am

Ahh, Skymeat, that middle one is a fantastic wreck, almost art.

stoker · Post by **stoker** » Thu Nov 29, 2007 3:45 am

a litle trial and error he said

Bsnapshot · Post by **Bsnapshot** » Thu Nov 29, 2007 6:11 am

Thank you all for the help. Hear are some photos Of my latest attempt, I started out trying to bend the coil on a 1/2 pipe while the tube was cold. Then on the next I heated it and tried it hot and heated let it cool and tried to bend. So far this is the best I came up with. I am following the plans and trying to make the still with 1 1/2 pipe. Is there any hope for me.

http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/20 ... 0483TZulMX" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/29 ... 0483NhQRog" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
[/url]

Post by **HookLine** » Thu Nov 29, 2007 6:28 am

A 1/2" mandrel is probably too small and tight for your first attempt at a coil wind, even experienced people find that size difficult. That is one reason why 2" columns are better than 1 & 1/2", much easier to wind a coil condenser for 2".

Try a 3/4" mandrel. It will be a lot easier to wind and the coil will still fit inside a 1 & 1/2" column. And like Tracker said, you need to use annealed (softened) tube. It comes in a coil, not as a straight piece.

Also, the tube has ended up way too flattened. You will probably have trouble with resistance to water flow through it.

Don't freak out if you are having trouble with it, winding a coil condenser is probably the trickiest part of building a still. A lot of people have trouble with it.

Bsnapshot · Post by **Bsnapshot** » Thu Nov 29, 2007 7:02 am

For not knowing anything I was trying to follow the drawing of the bokakob still I found on this sight. I was afraid I would not have enough BTU heat to support a 2 inch column on my stove top. Now after doing all of this I wish I would have bought the 2 inch pipe.

The copper tube I am starting with is in a coil. I bought it at the hardware store. It is sold as water line for ice maker. So when I soften the tube do I heat the entire roll or just in sections? When I start to bend it do I do it when it is red hot or cool it with water?

Post by **HookLine** » Thu Nov 29, 2007 9:05 am

Yes, the Bokabob slanted plate still is an excellent basic design, but the detailed plan isn't perfect.

I think copper tube comes in thin and thick walled versions. You might have got the thin walled version, which might be why it flattened so much. My 1/4" tube has walls about 0.75 mm thick (a fraction under 1/32"). Try asking for the high pressure version from a refrigeration supplier.

If your copper tube came in a coil then it already has been heat treated (annealed). Heating it again won't make it any softer.

I didn't use heat to bend mine, so I can't help you much on that question. But if you bend it when it is red hot, that might cause too much flattening.

And Skymeat, can you resize those photos down a bit to fit the page. Thanks.

Bsnapshot · Post by **Bsnapshot** » Thu Nov 29, 2007 10:06 am

I hooked up the condenser to a water source I showed in an earlier post and I got a steady stream of water out of it and when I adjusted the water flow up or down the stream followed. I am thinking about trying out this condenser.

On the top of the column am I suppose to have a cap on that or just put the condenser in the top and leave it open?

Post by **HookLine** » Thu Nov 29, 2007 12:00 pm

Bsnapshot wrote:On the top of the column am I suppose to have a cap on that or just put the condenser in the top and leave it open?

Either way works. But if you use a cap put a hole at least 1/2" in it to prevent any pressure building up.

Here's my condenser:

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s197 ... erCoil.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s197 ... pofCap.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

There's more photos of it in the album.

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s197/Sinker_2007/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

allen42 · Post by **allen42** » Thu Nov 29, 2007 3:50 pm

WOW thanks for ALL the replys , I really wish if anyone out there has some step by step directions, maybe they will post, till then, i think I am gonna stick with my internal reflux, and maybe later on try my hand with corn mash & whiskey

Ricky · Post by **Ricky** » Thu Nov 29, 2007 4:11 pm

corn mash and a pot still with liebig is much easier to me. after seeing your pics i wish you lived near me. i would gladly drive 150 miles to help you make a coil. i dont find it that hard but from other post there must be some hidden talent i didnt know i had. i stretch the tubing,not pipe, out straight and start the coil around a stick or pipe the proper dia. then i just roll it up on it. keep plenty of down pressure on it and wind it up. when i get through i usually have a blister on the base of my thumb but other than that it isnt hard to me. i dont use salt,sand,or heat. i dont know if this will help you but i hope it does. Good Luck

Ricky · Post by **Ricky** » Thu Nov 29, 2007 4:14 pm

just noticed that you live down south. you might not be to far. pm me if you like. i aint the popo. always looking for a partner in crime.

Bsnapshot · Post by **Bsnapshot** » Fri Nov 30, 2007 9:34 am

Hookline, That is one nice looking condenser. I know my talents are not that good. I am jealous of you work.

Post by **HookLine** » Fri Nov 30, 2007 11:04 am

Thanks, B. When I first left school (30 years ago!) I worked in the building industry for a while, and then in an engineering workshop, and learned a whole bunch of trade skills which have since proved very useful in a whole lot of situations, from fixing cars, to house maintenance, and of course most important of all, still building.

Post by **Uncle Jesse** » Fri Nov 30, 2007 11:45 am

you should add those photos to the wiki

Post by **HookLine** » Fri Nov 30, 2007 12:06 pm

Thanks for that, UJ. I actually heard your request the other day for more effort on the wiki and was planning on doing some work on it after Xmas (just too busy now). I'll add my photos then.

Bsnapshot · Post by **Bsnapshot** » Mon Dec 03, 2007 10:53 am

On the design for the bokakob still, the plan shows the sink strainer, column and brass nut together. When I solder these together is the sink strainer suppose to be removable for cleaning or are they all soldered together and attached to the lid?

tracker0945 · Post by **tracker0945** » Mon Dec 03, 2007 4:14 pm

Bsnapshot wrote:On the design for the bokakob still, the plan shows the sink strainer, column and brass nut together. When I solder these together is the sink strainer suppose to be removable for cleaning or are they all soldered together and attached to the lid?

The main object is to be able to remove the packing when you want to so to achieve this you must be able to either remove the strainer or column from the brass union. Do it however is easier for you.
Making the column removable allows for more compact storage.

Bsnapshot · Post by **Bsnapshot** » Mon Dec 03, 2007 5:08 pm

Thanks Tracker0945

What I was trying to do was solder the brass nut to the column so I could take it apart to clean and remove packing. I can get it on the sink strainer and off but then it would loosen up. I had the copper and brass cleaned real good fluxed and then heated it up very hot and applied the solder. I was just unsure if the solder was suppose to just seal the joint or if it would join the two. I guess I will have to keep trying to join the two.. It has been one thing after another trying to get this still done.

Skymeat · Post by **Skymeat** » Mon Dec 03, 2007 5:12 pm

It took me a long time, and a lot of trial and error, but I have a bokakob mini that I am really proud of. I could have bought one cheaper I think at this point after buying new tools and parts. But I wouldn't trade it.

Bsnapshot · Post by **Bsnapshot** » Mon Dec 03, 2007 5:33 pm

skymeat
Did you solder the brass ring on the column separately or did you solder the ring column and sink strainer all together?

Skymeat · Post by **Skymeat** » Mon Dec 03, 2007 6:21 pm

I just used the plans as a guideline. I made the column pretty much to spec (but resized(2"x48"))and picked up a 15.5 keg as a boiler. The hardest part was figuring out how to mate it with the keg. When I figured it out, it was just a matter of buying and waiting for the parts.

tracker0945 · Post by **tracker0945** » Mon Dec 03, 2007 8:47 pm

Skymeat wrote:It took me a long time, and a lot of trial and error, but I have a bokakob mini that I am really proud of. I could have bought one cheaper I think at this point after buying new tools and parts. But I wouldn't trade it.

Just think, if you bought one ready made you would not now have all those shiney new toys to play with.

...... and you have something you are proud of. Kinda gives you a warm fuzzy feeling in the belly doesn't it.

Home Distiller

bokakob or valved still

bokakob or valved still

yeh