3 inch ferrule doesn't fit 3 inch copper pipe?!?

[Twisted Brick]

Did you use two of them? Is this for the top of the column for reflux or for cooling for collection?

Right now I have the stuff to put together a 24 inch, 1 inch jacket over a 1/2 inch with a T for the inlet and a T for the outlet...reducers at each end to 1/2. I'm under the impression this is good enough for a LM/bokabob column. My reflux condenser turned out good, double spiral of 3/8 OD copper. I'll mount it to a 3 inch cap this weekend...third hole for venting.

I did use two of them on a 4 x 1/2 x 21" shotty (product condenser) here.

I have no experience with a liebig, but I understand that 3/4" over 1/2" may be more efficient than 1" over 1/2", and it will certainly be lighter.

[Budapest8485]

Did you use two of them? Is this for the top of the column for reflux or for cooling for collection?

Right now I have the stuff to put together a 24 inch, 1 inch jacket over a 1/2 inch with a T for the inlet and a T for the outlet...reducers at each end to 1/2. I'm under the impression this is good enough for a LM/bokabob column. My reflux condenser turned out good, double spiral of 3/8 OD copper. I'll mount it to a 3 inch cap this weekend...third hole for venting.

I did use two of them on a 4 x 1/2 x 21" shotty (product condenser) here.

I have no experience with a liebig, but I understand that 3/4" over 1/2" may be more efficient than 1" over 1/2", and it will certainly be lighter.

That's interesting. 1/8th verses 1/4 inch space around the internal tube makes a difference... I could return it and get 3/4 inch stuff and save a few bucks...

I filed, sanded with a flap wheel, ground on my belt grinder and now the ferrule fits the pipe perfectly. Thanks for the advice. I can make this work.

[Twisted Brick]

Nice job. Looking forward to hearing how she runs once you've got it together.

[Budapest8485]

I don't think you'll be saving any time by using an oven. Getting the ferrule up to temp with a torch is the work of a minute or so.

The silver solder I used (Oatey safe-flo) melts somewhere between 415-455F so you'd still need to torch to raise the temp and more to keep it there.

Be patient, clean the part with alcohol or degreaser before you start, use the Harris stay-brite liquid flux, keep the torch from hitting the flux directly. Wipe away discoloration. You'll be fine.

I didn't use harris stay brite liquid flux. It wasn't easy...lots of wasted solder, smoke, and I can go ahead and throw that flux brush away! I would say it's 75% covered in a tin layer...I might go back to it and improve the job some. I can see how this is like taking out an insurance policy to get the real solder job done right. Solder is already there, so when I flux and heat it up it should just come right together.

I'm going to work on it more this week. The only item I have left to acquire is wire to my controller and heat element...I know what to get, so I'll just go to the homeless depot and get it this weekend. Stuff from all over the globe is on it's way...when it gets here I'll be ready!

Thanks for the advice!

[Boozewaves]

Respect on making it work I had similar troubles earlier this year , my 3 inch ferules would not fit my thick copper pipe , I remember using a car jack to force my pipe up in a stone barn doorway against the ferrule which had been shaved down after using a gas weed burner to anneal the copper . It was snowing at the time which is uncommon around here and it was so cold I kept the half face dust mask I was wearing on after I was done grinding and I remember trying to soak the ferrule in the snow to help it go in , it did kind of work ..eventually . after doing one side I did some research and found ferules that had been machined to the right size on distillinguk website at £9 each, so I did the other pieces with them

I could not get my head around joining the metals although I did try . I tried silver soldering and the propane torch I used was not making it hot enough even though it was supposedly ''low melting point'' . ended up asking a guy with a tig welder to tig the pieces for me , so like I say respect on doing it all yourself and best of luck with the build .

[Budapest8485]

Respect on making it work I had similar troubles earlier this year , my 3 inch ferules would not fit my thick copper pipe , I remember using a car jack to force my pipe up in a stone barn doorway against the ferrule which had been shaved down after using a gas weed burner to anneal the copper . It was snowing at the time which is uncommon around here and it was so cold I kept the half face dust mask I was wearing on after I was done grinding and I remember trying to soak the ferrule in the snow to help it go in , it did kind of work ..eventually . after doing one side I did some research and found ferules that had been machined to the right size on distillinguk website at £9 each, so I did the other pieces with them

I could not get my head around joining the metals although I did try . I tried silver soldering and the propane torch I used was not making it hot enough even though it was supposedly ''low melting point'' . ended up asking a guy with a tig welder to tig the pieces for me , so like I say respect on doing it all yourself and best of luck with the build .

I'm going modular soon...cutting the column into three pieces and putting a pot still head on it for non-reflux distillation. This means I have 7 of these joints to solder. I'm going to take expat's advice and tin each of the ferrules before attempting to solder it. Searching through my solder kit, I have an "iron" tip head to connect to my propane torch. I'm going to use that to tin these ferrules instead of trying to do it with a torch head.

Another thing I'm going to do is used my oven at 550f to soak these fittings and pipe. I'm working with heavier walled stuff that just drains all the heat from where I'm working. Bringing it all up to temp and then using the torch is going to make it easier I think. Otherwise you're fighting the heat drain and wasting propane as heat leaves the area you're working on.

[Expat]

Funny you should mention tinning. I just got back in from the workshop. Finished up another column section with two previously tinned ferrules. And then tinned 4 more three inch ferrules for the upcoming second column section and botanical basket.

I feel like I have tinning ferrules down to a science. Less than 10 minutes a piece including prep.

[Budapest8485]

Funny you should mention tinning. I just got back in from the workshop. Finished up another column section with two previously tinned ferrules. And then tinned 4 more three inch ferrules for the upcoming second column section and botanical basket.

I feel like I have tinning ferrules down to a science. Less than 10 minutes a piece including prep.

It didn't go easy for me. The solder iron head on my propane tank will hopefully make it easier on my next go.

I'm wondering if I (heavy) tin, flux, and put it in the oven at 550 if it'll just flow where it needs to. I can pull it out, torch it, and try to force more solder as well. It would be nice not to need the torch. 3 inch L copper is a pig to work with.

[Expat]

Its all about getting enough heat into the metal to make things flow properly. Given the problem you've been having, i'd suggest having a second torch (preferably MAP) to work with. Bring it up to temp with both and then just use MAP as its higher heat.

Sweating the copper to the stainless is the way easy part.

[Budapest8485]

Its all about getting enough heat into the metal to make things flow properly. Given the problem you've been having, i'd suggest having a second torch (preferably MAP) to work with. Bring it up to temp with both and then just use MAP as its higher heat.

Sweating the copper to the stainless is the way easy part.

I used two propane torches last time. It eventually worked...I did three joints and I have no leaks. You're right about getting it up to temp before trying to solder...takes a long time with this size/thickness material. Seemed like the torches choked each other out...kept losing my flame.

My modular sections should just barely fit into the oven diagonally according to Pythagoras...30 inches each. I'm gonna soak the tubes in high heat before inserting the tinned ferrules and working it with the torch. Soldering the ferrule both inside and outside of the tube gives me two chances to get it right. I'm confident.

[Boozewaves]

I'm going modular soon...cutting the column into three pieces and putting a pot still head on it for non-reflux distillation. This means I have 7 of these joints to solder. I'm going to take expat's advice and tin each of the ferrules before attempting to solder it. Searching through my solder kit, I have an "iron" tip head to connect to my propane torch. I'm going to use that to tin these ferrules instead of trying to do it with a torch head.

Another thing I'm going to do is used my oven at 550f to soak these fittings and pipe. I'm working with heavier walled stuff that just drains all the heat from where I'm working. Bringing it all up to temp and then using the torch is going to make it easier I think. Otherwise you're fighting the heat drain and wasting propane as heat leaves the area you're working on.

I will eventually be doing some pot distillation hopefully , I know of a local place selling cracked corn so i'd like to try and make some UJSSM as i'd like to try some authentic white dog moonshine . my CCVM could be used as a pot still if I buy or make a circle of copper or stainless to block the hole in the tee where the reflux condenser will go .going modular is a good thing , its 2 stills in one or even 3 if you want to add a gin basket .I've not made any spirits yet , hopefully will have done some for the christmas holidays so i'm not an expert by any means and i'm not trying to sound like one. if I do any ferrule fitting again I will probably use my fathers hydraulic press , if it can compress my big heavy cars suspension coil then i'm sure it will flare a pipe easy . and like you say , plenty of heat always helps .

[Windy City]

Sorry to come late to this discussion but....
Check out the easy flange from Still Dragon
http://stilldragon.com/index.php/compon ... rules.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
http://stilldragon.com/index.php/copper-ez-flange.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
There is no grinding or fiddling, it is as simple as any standard male/female solder joint
I have used many of them and can attest to their quality

[Budapest8485]

Sorry to come late to this discussion but....
Check out the easy flange from Still Dragon
http://stilldragon.com/index.php/compon ... rules.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
http://stilldragon.com/index.php/copper-ez-flange.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
There is no grinding or fiddling, it is as simple as any standard male/female solder joint
I have used many of them and can attest to their quality

Those are nice, but kinda expensive. Using a flap wheel I can grind out enough material to without too much effort. I'd have around $200 into the ferrules plus more for tri-clamps and PTFE gaskets. Through glacial tanks I got all that for about $60. I have to pay for the flap wheel and I'll have time into it... Not sure which decision is best, but I already went with the less expensive option. Probably next weekend I'll execute all of it.