4” Column Build Assistance

[Nole_Brewer]

Hey all,

I am in the process of building a basic 4” column, 24” in height, on a standard 1/2 barrel keg.

I already have a TC Ferrule on the top of the keg and the corresponding Ferrule for the column, my main isssue is how to easily & cheaply close off the top and connect to my condensing arm?

Any help would be appreciated. Parts list would be great.

[metalsmith]

4 inch copper is not especially cheap. Go for a cap, and come out the side for your condenser. You could try for a bell reducer, but they are a bunch more money.

[acfixer69]

I am in the process of building a basic 4” column, 24” in height, on a standard 1/2 barrel keg.

That's not much information there to give and answer. The flute threads got a lot if you start at pg 1 and naw on it and keep pushing on. Don't look for a that's it answer. You will arrive at your own answer. Won't take that many pages for most big questions to be answered. If that's what you are calling a basic 4"Column

[Nole_Brewer]

Thanks, Metalsmith, that’s what I was thinking. My buddy says it won’t be as efficient, but I think it will be minor, if anything.

[Yummyrum]

I’m guessing you are talking about a pot still .
4” will be a complete waste of time and money .... even more so that you are using a 8 gal boiler. There is a limit to how much heat you can throw at a wash . The power that you would realistically be running a still like that , you could even get away with 1” riser .

But seeing as the keg has a 2” outlet , it’s typical just to use a 2” riser .

One of the best things you can include is an adjustable angle for your liebig .......then you can adjust to suit your collection jar height.

Here are two pot stills I made , the first reduces to 3/4” and uses a union as the adjustment , then reduces down again to 1/2” for the liebig
On my bigger one , I used a 2”triclamp to adjust , then reduced down to 3/4” for the liebig .

EDIT: I just re-read your OP . Are you saying you already have a 4” ferrule welded to it ?

[zapata]

A man's gotta make what a man's gotta make. But I really think you should save that piece till you're ready to make your flute. I'd make it a 4 plate module myself, others could probably squeeze 4 plates and a dephlegmator out of it. Make your pot outta piddly stuff, that big risers just gonna look like that huge tail pipe sleeves people slide over their exhaust to make it look bigger...

[Nole_Brewer]

I’m guessing you are talking about a pot still .
4” will be a complete waste of time and money .... even more so that you are using a 8 gal boiler. There is a limit to how much heat you can throw at a wash . The power that you would realistically be running a still like that , you could even get away with 1” riser .

But seeing as the keg has a 2” outlet , it’s typical just to use a 2” riser .

One of the best things you can include is an adjustable angle for your liebig .......then you can adjust to suit your collection jar height.

Here are two pot stills I made , the first reduces to 3/4” and uses a union as the adjustment , then reduces down again to 1/2” for the liebig
On my bigger one , I used a 2”triclamp to adjust , then reduced down to 3/4” for the liebig .

EF4F16E2-00E7-47AB-8D9B-1E12DE84812A.jpeg

DA390E81-CD0B-402A-A201-060732BEC2BD.jpeg

EDIT: I just re-read your OP . Are you saying you already have a 4” ferrule welded to it ?

Yummyrum, Yes, I already have the Ferrule welded to my 1/2 Barrel keg. Also, plan on using my 5500 watt heating element on it, with a temp probe at the top of the column to regulate the temp.

[Yummyrum]

OK so you are basically married to it now so back to your first question .
What Zapata said about useing the 4” you have as a future flute build is exactly what I’d do too .... but for now , let’s continue as a pot still .
The fortunate thing is that the top of the still will be basically the same , as in , you need to go to the condenser.
So If it was me ,

Option 1:
I’d put another 4” ferrule ay the top of your riser ( column) . Then you can triclamp in a deflag down the future . But... in the meantime go 4” ferrule —— 4”-2” reducer ——90° bend——2”ferrule——2”ferrule——-90° bend ——reduce down to lebig diameter .

Option 2:
Cap the top .... either solder plate on or use triclamp and blanking plate .
Grind a 2” ferrule to match the 4” and solder it to the side . Then 2”triclamp——-90then reduce down to liebig

Now about that thermometer and temperature controller . Forget it .... it does NOT work .

[shadylane]

I already have a TC Ferrule on the top of the keg and the corresponding Ferrule for the column, my main isssue is how to easily & cheaply close off the top and connect to my condensing arm?

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