LM head

[Jack C]

Has anyone here used one of these LM heads?

Assembled head

Component parts

I am aware that there needs to be some replacement of gaskets to PFTE and the thermo seal will need to be replaced with one made of PFTE as well. From the looks of it I also would expect to clean up some welds to help with a smooth fluid flow down the output pipe. I ask because I have one one the way, it’s a 3 inch and will fit on my modular still parts I have already. I will add a packed column over my plates and move my pc to above the head. It’s just an easy plug and play to the still for running whiskey feints cleanup for neutrals. I think I would need a micro worm on the output below the needle valve to cool the distillate down as the output pipe is in the vapor path more than a Boka. Well if you have some experience with please give me your thoughts. Thanks
Small edit for wording.

[Jack C]

Well the LM head finally arrived from China. The first thing that I did was take the sight glass apart and machine a register into the flange. This allows the centering ring to sit down flush with the flange and a standard gasket can be used.

I marked the register with red sharpie.

Centering ring flush

I plan to put this on a 36 inch long 3 inch spool packed with Shady’s fish tank ceramic filters. This spool will be on top of a 6 inch bubble plate.

Spool on bubble plate

I will use one of my RC’s attached at a 45 degree on top to provide reflux. The centering ring should make sure all reflux hits the liquid collection disk. I will leave an open path at the top of the RC.

LM with RC

RC with open end.

I will have a PTFE rod in a couple days to make a seal for the temp probe. I also have a fitting coming to attach the product cooler to the take off valve.

LM

Please comment if you have any helpful hints.

[Expat]

Looks like an interesting piece of gear.

As a regular bok user, my initial thoughts are for splashing in the collection cup. I wonder what level of efficiently you might expect given how shallow it is.

Second thought, the take off tube seems small. With my 3" bok, has by design the ability to take 100% of the reflux, it's a 1/2" output.

[Jack C]

I have some concerns about the take off size as well. If it is being over run I will need to take it apart and weld in a larger take off tube. Thanks Expat.

[Expat]

I have some concerns about the take off size as well. If it is being over run I will need to take it apart and weld in a larger take off tube. Thanks Expat.

Np, curious to see this catchment in action. Post up some pictures when you're up and running!

[Jack C]

I am really having a hard time finding a large port needle valve. They all seem really small and I think that at full open will still be to small. What are some of you using on the larger bore boka’s that allow more output?

[Expat]

1/2" stainless needle valve from fleaBay.

[Jack C]

Expat what is the size of the hole that the liquid flows through. Every one of the ones I find the hike size of the flow port is only about 1/8 inch.

[Expat]

Don't have an exact measurements, not full port but large.
Enough that I can do zero reflux at 5500w

I'll try and get a pic later.

[JC973]

I personally like the looks of this idea, so easy to fit into a modular column. The port size doesn’t bother me much, the take off rate is usually just a slow drip any way, should be fine?

Can you give me an idea how deep the take off dish is?

[Jack C]

The dish is .525. Just over a half inch.

[tubbsy]

Expat what is the size of the hole that the liquid flows through. Every one of the ones I find the hike size of the flow port is only about 1/8 inch.

I've often thought about having 2 outlets on my LM still. One with a smaller than typical needle valve, maybe 1/4" or smaller, for extra fine adjustments and the other a 1/4 or 1/2" ball valve to open it right up for zero reflux.

[Expat]

Expat what is the size of the hole that the liquid flows through. Every one of the ones I find the hike size of the flow port is only about 1/8 inch.

I've often thought about having 2 outlets on my LM still. One with a smaller than typical needle valve, maybe 1/4" or smaller, for extra fine adjustments and the other a 1/4 or 1/2" ball valve to open it right up for zero reflux.

Small issue with that design, it would add quite a bit to your pool of condensate, and increase smearing on the need valve takeoff. Some people have done an LM/CCVM setup which would function similarly.

[tubbsy]

Small issue with that design, it would add quite a bit to your pool of condensate, and increase smearing on the need valve takeoff.

How so? I'm only talking mabe 10mL in the ball valve line and I can't imagine that small volume will have much of an impact.

[JC973]

The dish is .525. Just over a half inch.

Jack, thanks for the info sir

[Expat]

Small issue with that design, it would add quite a bit to your pool of condensate, and increase smearing on the need valve takeoff.

How so? I'm only talking mabe 10mL in the ball valve line and I can't imagine that small volume will have much of an impact.

It's a definite increase in volume, but it would also be mostly stagnant, allowing cuts to smear. Easier just to have a properly sized valve.

[Jack C]

After I run this one I think I will change the output to 3/8 and use a small ball valve with ptfe seals. I just think that running a boiler loaded at 35%-40% of alcohol with a 6 inch bubble plate under a 36 inch 3 inch column will produce more than the small take off will handle. I think with the needle valve wide open on the small valve it will still have plenty of reflux down the column and produce very high % output. I will know more after testing. I have 6 gallons low wines now and have another 28 gallons of wash to strip. Then I will load it up and test it out.

[Jack C]

Today I decided I am going to make another of the heads but with a copper dish and larger copper tubing. A couple of pics of the dish. It was made from some 1/8 inch copper flat material. Had to reheat it a few times to soften it up during the process.

Top of dish

It is about 5/8 inch dead and is 2-5/8 od.
It won’t let me post another pic. Will follow up with two more.

[Jack C]

Well finally have a chance to run it. The boiler is loaded with four strips from Shadys sugar shine. 13 gallons at 40%. It seems to be doing well so far, no splashing in the receiver cup. I have the 6 inch bubble cap under 3 ft of three inch that’s packed with the ceramic fish tank rings.

Assembled still

I am getting 1 pint every 5 minutes @ 95%. Not bad. Seems stable and requires no real fiddling during the run.

Receiver cup

It’s really hard to get a good pick of the cup with the liquid dropping in.
I don’t think there is anything that makes this better than a BOKA except maybe it’s a little more modular.

[Jack C]

After letting the spirit sit a day and making cuts the portion kept was at 94%. I am sure that when I said 95% I must have made a temp correction error. Still not a bad unit to run. Temp of the vapor responds quickly to the needle valve take off rate. Also the liquid temp out was around 140-150 and the temp out of the product cooler was 76 so the little cooler worked well.

[charcoal]

Did your part where thermometer goes in leak? Mine did on a different module but also from Distillex

[Jack C]

I am not sure about the original. I made a new seal bushing from PTFE rod and I wrap ptfe tape around the thermo before putting the packing nut on. When the packing cap is tightened it squeezes the tape between it and the seal bushing sealing it off.