Best Silver solder, What? Why? Where?

[BoomTown]

Ok, I give up!

Have a new MAPP soldering setup, and hope to use liquid flux, allegedly easy post soldering clean up. Need the extra heat from the MAPP because thickness of Copper fittings.

Now need a high silver, no lead solder. Anyone willing to recommend a product? Explain it’s superior qualities, and mention where I can buy it without taking out a 2nd mortgage?

[Twisted Brick]

I use Harris (SB861) Stay-Brite 8 (6%) and Stay-Clean liquid flux. Both originally recommended by Corene1 and the only solder I use. I prefer the 3/32" size but its been hard to find lately so just go with the 1/8" stuff. Works flawlessly with MAPP.

I get the 1lb spool from Supply House. The flux you can buy at any AirGas or welding shop.

[Sporacle]

If you're soldering then lead free silver solder from a plumbing supply or hardware usually costs less than a dollar a gram if buying in small amounts.
It's what plumbers use for water pipes so its food safe.
If you're brazing then a 45% silver brazing rod is probably the best way as you don't need to apply as much heat as a low silver content rod, less chance of warping and these are expensive

[30xs]

I use Harris (SB861) Stay-Brite 8 (6%) and Stay-Clean liquid flux. Both originally recommended by Corene1 and the only solder I use. I prefer the 3/32" size but its been hard to find lately so just go with the 1/8" stuff. Works flawlessly with MAPP.

I get the 1lb spool from Supply House. The flux you can buy at any AirGas or welding shop.

One trick I’ve used when out of the smaller solder is to hammer the length your going to use flat and then use a pair of scissors and split it lengthwise. Use one side at a time for easier fine work.

[stillanoob]

I lilke the Harris products TB mentions. the Otay stuff is otay too.

For most soldering you really don't need MAP. Maybe for really big stuff. Getting too hot is a problem, it can burn the flux and then the joint won't flow. I built my all copper still with propane no problem.

[River Rat]

Any lead free silver solder is fine for copper to copper. Water soluble flux such as Oatey H-20 gives you the easy cleanup, and is cheap. I'd save the Stay-Brite solder and liquid flux for joints where stainless is involved. And you absolutely NEED those two when stainless is involved.
MAPP gas can be handy with big joints using regular solder and paste flux. For joints under 1", or any joint using Stay-Brite and liquid flux, I'd go with propane. The temp difference between MAPP and propane is actually pretty small, but it makes a difference. Just my $0.02

[30xs]

You don’t mention what your soldering. Are you soldering copper to copper, or copper to stainless? Either of the above mentioned will work for copper to copper and even a water soluble flux is fine. For stainless to copper the stay-clean and stay-brite 8 is my favorite. The Stay-brite is supposed to be a stronger solder and seems to fill small voids well.

Posted the same time as River Rat.

[tiramisu]

A pound of Harris Stay-Brite is not cheap by any stretch of the imagination.
But it is one of the easiest to use
BUT/AND with good flux,
you can solder stainless with cheaper solders with a joint that is strong enough for our purposes.

[PeatyKeats]

Not to hijack this post, but given all the mentions of flux, does anyone prefer to use tinning flux paste?

[8Ball]

I use Harris (SB861) Stay-Brite 8 (6%) and Stay-Clean liquid flux. Both originally recommended by Corene1 and the only solder I use. I prefer the 3/32" size but its been hard to find lately so just go with the 1/8" stuff. Works flawlessly with MAPP.

I get the 1lb spool from Supply House. The flux you can buy at any AirGas or welding shop.

+1. Harris lead free silver solder 1/8” works well with Oatey lead free flux.