Here is the link to the video: https://vidd.me/e/VM7" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
1) Gather materials
- Here's what you need:
The right Solder/flux:
- Must be intended to join ferrous/non-ferrous materials.
- I recommend Harris Staybrite kit. It's a 4% silver solder with a flux that will etch the stainless.
- There may be other brands, but this one is widely available for less than $10 on the net, or you can pick it up in person at HD for less than $15.
- Doesn't seem that expensive when you are paying $2-4 an inch for large diameter copper pipe!
Copper pipe: My recommendation is to use M-type copper for a soldered application, as the ID is the best fit for the ferrules. K and L pipes have a smaller ID than the ferrule and DWV is too large.
SS Ferrule(s): These are pretty widely available from brewing supply houses, distilling hardware suppliers, and Amazon or ebay. I recommend using long-neck ferrules as they are easier to square up with the pipe.
Torch: You will need a MAP torch. Propane is not hot enough to work with the silver solder, or a 2"+ joint, for that matter. I have seen others say MAP is not hot enough and that you need Acetylene. This is not my experience.
3) Fit a ring of solder around the base of the joint: This is the tip I picked up from some Youtube videos. Wrap a length of the solder around the pipe and cut it so that it is the length of the perimeter. Wrap it around the joint where the pipe and ferrule meet. There is usually a little gap there that will bite into the solder a bit. One wrap of the solder seems to be enough. I tried one joint with two wraps and just ended up with a lot of excess solder dripping out of the joint.
4) Heat the Stainless with MAP torch: I heat the stainless with the torch, not the copper. Two reasons for this: 1) The bond on the stainless is critical, and SS it is less heat conductive than copper, so it's important that you apply the flame there and let the heat transfer to the copper. You don't need to worry about getting the SS too hot with a MAP torch; and 2) It's just easier. The flange on the ferrule protects the solder and flux from being burned up by the torch. Others may disagree with this logic - but that is the way I have done it with good results.
If you follow this process, you should be able to sweat a joint in 40-60 seconds. Super fast and easy!