Need Some ideas about locking boiler lid

[artooks]

Hi,

I have a problem that I need some ideas about it, after receiving my two 3 and 8 gallon boilers, I cut out a custom PTFE gasket for these two boilers, which they worked fine, they are 6.2 mm thick otherwise the lid wiggles up and down, I had not problem with the 8 Gallon one which both lids are exactly the same, but the small one I really had problems because the screw tends to lean to the topside as you could see in the picture, so after 2-3 times of usage the screw gets stripped and locks itself there, after that it does not move, so the problem that I have is at the hardware of the screw the box that it attaches to, so I am going to bend a new one to make it a proper one, but also open to new ideas, is there a simple way to attach the clamp ? I really need some help as after welding the nut three times did not help even I tried a bigger screw and nut even that did not help because the nut and the screw lean to the top at some point so I need some help.

Thanks

[still_stirrin]

Would a C-clamp from the hardware store work?
ss

[StillerBoy]

If that clamp was on my unit, I would drill a hole on the opposite side, the same size hole as on bolt side (your thum side in the picture), and put a bolt of the hole size and of the length required, putting a flat washer between the head bolt and clamp and the same on the other side, and just use a nut with a wrench to tighten with..

Alternately, get a new bolt mechanize, as that one seem to be defective..

Mars

[nuntius01]

If that clamp was on my unit, I would drill a hole on the opposite side, the same size hole as on bolt side (your thum side in the picture), and put a bolt of the hole size and of the length required, putting a flat washer between the head bolt and clamp and the same on the other side, and just use a nut with a wrench to tighten with..

Alternately, get a new bolt mechanize, as that one seem to be defective..

Mars

this is what i was thinking along those lines also. could you weld a piece on the one side then drill a hole and thread it. then just use your bolt.

[Pikey]

That is a nice camp. Seems to be based on the seal they sometimes use on barrels, which is what I have on mine. They have two sets of steel legs, one acts in tension, as yours does and the other set are shorter, so when you close te "locking lever", it pushes the other side away, like yur screw does. It shouldn't be too hard to copy that design and it does provide for instant locking and releasing of the clamp. Sorry I can't show a decent picture atm.

They do have their own issues in that the short legs have a tendency to "Buckle" if the clamp is very tight though.

[sltm1]

1. Remove the nut/yoke piece.
2. Place it in a vice, securing the side that the nut tilts to.
3. With gentle hammer blows, change the tilt to level with that vice held leg.
4. Square the two legs up again by adjusting the opposite leg.
5. Re-drill/elongate that leg hole so that it lines up with the rim clamp and the hole on the other leg again.
6. Reassemble the clamp and fill the elongated hole behind the rivet with several wraps of stainless fishing leader wire (this will prevent movement of the rivet)..

[OtisT]

Hi. Just curious; If you turn that clamp over with the thumb screw on the opposite side, does the cant of the screw still tilt up, or down?

In a pinch, try large binder clamps.

[Pesty]

I’ve got the same clamps and boiler lids. My clamp is currently ok. The rivets are bending a little and the bolt is showing signs of stress and will need to be fixed sometime soon.
My idea is to simply lop off the top of the boiler and weld on an 8” tri clamp ferrurle.
I don’t see this clamp and lid configuration lasting long term.

[zapata]

Ha e the seller send a replacement? That an option?

[artooks]

Thank you very much guys, a C Clamp works but it is not very practical to use all the time, the problem is before screwing the screw, there is not bend but once I screw it in place it starts to push forward while the nut side pushes against it so at some point I see metal shavings all over they go inside the thread it locks itself because it cannot go there, I think as it is advised drilling the other end and placing the nut at that point could be a better alternative maybe but still the bend will occur even at that point, I do not think that this is a good way to clamp the lid, I also thought to convert this to a 8 inch tri clamp but it requires some welding and extra expanse but first will try to fabricate from a thicker material lets see.

[Pikey]

You ever heard of a "spanish windlass" ?

You put a piece of rope or wire through the two things you want pulling together, tie or twist the ends together to make a loop, then you put a stick throught the loop and twist. This means the two pieces HAVE to come together (until the windlass snaps, or the stick breaks.) It does work though, just used two of these for lifting the diesel engine out of my boat !

[artooks]

Hi Everyone,

After thinking some time and deciding what to do, I did some modifications in order to reinforce the boiler lid clamp and make it work properly. what I did is the following

1) After checking the clamp, I realised that one of the issues was the two bridges that connects the clamp the bridges were constructed from 1 mm metal sheet, which is very weak and wiggles and slides one of the arm where it attaches to the bolt, so this was creating one of the issues of the bolt becoming stripped.
2) I also enlarged the holes of the clamp where 4 mm rivets going and changed them with 5mm rivets which made it more durable.
3) As I am using a PTFE custom cut gasket the thickness of this gasket is 0.25" which is a bit more it normally should be 0.20" I take the clamp and carve out some metals from both inside parts to be able to make it secure much better and it worked.
4) The main problem was the main bolt where it starts to lean upwards once I start to screw it in so, I decided to put two nuts inside and out to be able to make it more deep this really helped me a lot, and the problem vanished,

I am really happy now I solved all my problems, and wanted to share my solution with you maybe it could help someone who is facing the same problem.

[artooks]

I made a cleaning run today, and I can also confirm that there has been no leaks which was also my problem, these modifications really changed the clamp, so now it is more durable, and because of the new 3mm thick bridges the clamp lines up perfectly with minimum play so this is one of the reasons why it stripped the main screw and I can also easily screw in flawlessly now, It takes some time, to do these but at the end it is really changes how it works, one less thing to worry

[Bushman]

I made a cleaning run today, and I can also confirm that there has been no leaks which was also my problem, these modifications really changed the clamp, so now it is more durable, and because of the new 3mm thick bridges the clamp lines up perfectly with minimum play so this is one of the reasons why it stripped the main screw and I can also easily screw in flawlessly now, It takes some time, to do these but at the end it is really changes how it works, one less thing to worry

Congratulations, this is another example of why I bring things to this forum for answers. By discussing solutions it gives you the option of choosing what works best for you.

[RedwoodHillBilly]

I made a cleaning run today, and I can also confirm that there has been no leaks which was also my problem, these modifications really changed the clamp, so now it is more durable, and because of the new 3mm thick bridges the clamp lines up perfectly with minimum play so this is one of the reasons why it stripped the main screw and I can also easily screw in flawlessly now, It takes some time, to do these but at the end it is really changes how it works, one less thing to worry

Glad you got it sorted Artooks. See, I told you that you would get it when you were just starting out. Now you just need to blaze a new trial that the rest of us can follow.

[artooks]

I made a cleaning run today, and I can also confirm that there has been no leaks which was also my problem, these modifications really changed the clamp, so now it is more durable, and because of the new 3mm thick bridges the clamp lines up perfectly with minimum play so this is one of the reasons why it stripped the main screw and I can also easily screw in flawlessly now, It takes some time, to do these but at the end it is really changes how it works, one less thing to worry

Glad you got it sorted Artooks. See, I told you that you would get it when you were just starting out. Now you just need to blaze a new trial that the rest of us can follow.

Hi Yes you did and I really would like to thank you for your supportive help.