best way to connect a 1" ss gate valve to 1" copper pipe

[OtisT]

Hi needmorestuff. I’m not sure how far along your design is, but I have one tip for you. (Assuming your valve will be your Vapor Port in a VM still, valve mounted horizontally, and that it will feed your Liebig...). Make sure the valve is on the left side of your still; left side as you look at the still. This way when you position you Liebig at a nice slope, gravity will be tightening your threaded joints and not loosening it. It makes a difference, especially after a few re-assemblies.

Otis

[der wo]

Make sure the valve is on the left side of your still; left side as you look at the still. This way when you position you Liebig at a nice slope, gravity will be tightening your threaded joints and not loosening it.

Yes. And for that you have to mount the adaptors on the valve and seal it with PTFE tape once, that yoiu know, how exactly you have to solder the adaptors on the still. A little advantage of a non soldered connection (compression firtting for example) is, that you can everytime freely choose the position of the valve. With soldered adaptors you can't, you choose when you solder it.

[needmorstuff]

not that far along.. still a the critique stage.. interestingly I have the vm on the right hand side.. not for any particular reason. But I was planning on it dropping straight down if that makes any difference.

viewtopic.php?f=50&t=69704

[OtisT]

not that far along.. still a the critique stage.. interestingly I have the vm on the right hand side.. not for any particular reason. But I was planning on it dropping straight down if that makes any difference.

viewtopic.php?f=50&t=69704

Left, Right, the alcohol don't care but you may. If it's straight down it makes no difference, but if you ever decide to slope your product condenser you will be thankful your threads were on the left. Just sharing from experience. There is not a lot of play or room to maneauver when it comes to threading a 1" NTP connection. If you over shoot tightening it, that will become your new stop location until you over-tighten again. You can fix by sweating the joint and re-soldering to the correct location, but an ounce of prevention..... Of course if you don't care which way your valve handle is pointing just ignore all this and solder away. Good Luck. Otis

[The Baker]

der wo said, '. I have seen a video where someone solders a thick layer and while it's still liquid he uses a wet cloth to wipe away the excess solder.'

Hi, der wo,

That's exactly what the itinerant tinners did to rejuvenate the big (and small) mixing bowls in the bakery in the old days (yes, I remember those days).

No stainless steel then.

Then the man collected his money and headed for the pub....

Geoff

[needmorstuff]

even if i did tin the inside of a brass fitting it would still have an inadequate seal.. I will go down the SS route once found an adaptor.

[der wo]

Inadequate seal?
https://www.bes.co.uk/end-feed-coupler- ... m-1-m-9166" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
No at all! The one side is soldered onto the copper pipe, the other screwed into the valve (with a few layers PTFE tape).
This one is cheap, available in every hardware store and fits guaranteed perfectly on the copper pipe and the ss valve. You only have to solve the lead problem.

[needmorstuff]

the penny has finally dropped. get the ss valve and tin the inside of this brass fitting!

I thought it was being suggested to try tin the inside of a brass gate valve..

[der wo]

A little help for tinning a large aerea:
Polish it with plastic polishing pads for soldering. The solder will flow better the cleaner and less oxidized the surface is. Then apply fluid or paste. I would use relatively much. Then try to apply the heat evenly and mainly indirectly from the outside of the fitting. Probably you don't manage to tin the whole piece at once. The flux will start to detoriate and not work anymore before you have finished the tinning. Then don't try to add more and more solder. Stop it, wash the flux away with soap, then dump it in acid (citric or vinegar or whatever) to deoxidize it, rub it dry and start again.
You could experiment with wiping away excessive solder when it's still liquid. Of course it's not so easy inside the fitting. Perhaps use a small stick wrapped with a wet cloth.
Youtube has good videos about soldering and about tinning.

And disassemble the valve and clean out all the grease or oil before use.

[needmorstuff]

will do, thanks again. another piece of the puzzle in place/..

[needmorstuff]

found an npt gate valve.. could use it with the copper adaptor previously linked.. I think someone said 28mm copper pipe would work with 1" us fittings.

https://www.hydravalve.co.uk/haitima-20 ... valve.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

[needmorstuff]

just posting incase anyone else needs this..

1" to 28mm solder in adaptor
https://www.bes.co.uk/28-mm-x-1in-f-x-f ... V8QAvD_BwE" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

or

http://www.builderdepot.co.uk/yorks-sol ... nsQAvD_BwE" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

[der wo]

Good find. But a bit more expensive unfortunately.
You could buy one cheap brass adaptor in a store and try to tin it, before decide for one of the valves.
And if you go the NPT route, you could try first without the copper metric-imperial connectors.

[needmorstuff]

that's my plan.. I am just going to try the NPT copper adaptor with the BSP gate valve.. if it doesn't seal I will get a BSP brass adaptor and try tin it.

[Yummyrum]

I found the easiest way to tin the brass was to apply liquid flux and wipe the solder like painting it all over the inside . Doesn't matter if its thick and runny . Then while its hot , pick it up with a pair of multi- grips and flick it so the still molten excess solder flies out . Best to do this with boots and jeans on and concrete floor . . Quick re-heat and its good as . Note that soaking it in vinegar will turn the solder black . A quick scrub with a stainless scrubber and its good to go .

Wiping with wet rag does result in a nice finish but it will require several reheats if a nice even finish is desired .... not that it matters . No ones going to look inside your fitting and so long as its Tinned , thats what counts

[needmorstuff]

you are tugging on my frugal strings.. nice cheapo compatible brass fitting tinned or expensive copper fitting that may not work.. hhmmm.

[needmorstuff]

am I misreading - or are these copper 1" BSP to 28mm adaptors? it says iron in the title for some reason but the product info says copper?

https://www.jtmplumbing.co.uk/pipe-fitt ... aight-p376" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

[durty_dunderpants]

they're brass mate

[needmorstuff]

never mind.. I will just tin them.