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Hi All,

I just had my order from Alex NLD for a 2Pcs Sanitary Clamp Silicone Beer Keg Gasket For Column Adapter Still cancelled as they no longer stock them.

I have found the various threads that relate to connecting to a keg, notably the easy flange.. my question is - have things developed over the last few years? or is the easy flange still the best method.

I havent tried my "normal" 2" tri clamp gasket but I can bet it isn't going to seal.

what about 3mm ptfe sheet offcuts? too thin?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-mm-thick-P ... 2135148297" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

4mm
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-mm-thick-P ... 2220918475" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

Connecting to a keg with Easy flange is.... Easy. Essentially it mimics the shape profile of a ferrule. So in that sense, there really isn't any improvement or development required? (A self assembling flange perhaps? Lol).

The only thing you don't get from EF is the centering ring which fits a Standard gasket. I.e. the ridge which keeps the gasketcin the right place. Either way the keg side of the connection doesn't have one of these.

So I would suggest EF, it's easy I've done a dozen or so.

Re the gasket, search for everlasting gasket. Essentially you can use a base material such as thick cardboard or natural cork, and wrap it with PTFE tape. It works great.

Hope that helps.

I'm getting my flange mixed up with my gasket... I need a gasket

I did actually mean the everlasting gasket lol. I will construct a few of those.

thanks

Never hurts to have a few extra handy. I always seem to loose one and it will go rolling under the work bench. You are out of luck till you find it unless you have a spare and then you can look for it at your leisure.

I'm covering all bases. ordered 10 rolls of ptfe and some ptfe gaskets from glaciertanks for cheaps

I would think is all you need to do is take a standard 2" PTFE gasket and either sand or cut off with a razor the centering ridge on one side. The sanke fitting has a compatible profile to mate up with a tri-clamp ferrule and clamp, am I wrong?

Recently I've been using PTFE gaskets (ridge removed or otherwise) and wrapping them with PTFE tapes as well. I find it gives them a slightly better fit and they also stick in place.

I was assuming OP didn't have any gaskets hence the question.

I just have the silicon ones that came with my triclamps. apart from being silicon they are flimsy and offering it up to my beer keg flange gave me little confidence in it's ability to provide a good seal.

For the flange to keg junction I use a 2" standard silicone triclamp gasket with the bottom side ridge removed with a razorblade so it sits flat. I then wrap the gasket in PTFE tape and clamp down with a triclamp. All other gaskets are PTFE...but I like the bottom to be more flexible.

yes I could certinaly give that a go until my ptfe ones arrive, I like the idea of the cardboard wrapped one tbh.. nice wide ptfe gasket..

Your gasket can't really be too far off the standard dimensions, otherwise it interferes with either the clamp or vapour flow.

Everlasting gaskets do a good job but they tend to distort under heavy clamp pressure. I much prefer the PTFE gasket and tape solution I mentioned because it holds shape better.

just a note that different beer kegs have different flange thicknesses. as in, for some types a genuine gasket cut down will be too thick. for others a cardboard everlasting gasket will be too thin.

Standard ptfe gasket with ridge removed for keg side for me. Can't imagine futzing with cardboard to "save" $2 just to spend $2 in tape to wrap cardboard.

Unless you have a nonstandard keg I guess, but the standard gaskets work with all the macro american kegs I've seen.

Ebay is flooded with keg connections, take your pick or get a ferrule, Harris #8 it into your tube, shave the seal and clamp it up.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/51mm-2-inch-SS ... SwnHZYgw0f" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

A standard 2” triclamp using a ptfe gasket with ridge trimmed off on side works great. I used a trim knif with new blade to trim ridge off and then a file to even out small imperfections.

Wild Bill wrote:A standard 2” triclamp using a ptfe gasket with ridge trimmed off on side works great. I used a trim knif with new blade to trim ridge off and then a file to even out small imperfections.

I use a 120 grit sandpaper laid flat on a piece of tile (flat and solid) and then place the PTFE gasket in a ferrule (the ridge holds the gasket) and then slide it back and forth on the sandpaper. Gentle pressure is all that is needed to take the ridge off the “keg side” of the gasket. And it will remain a good uniform thickness so it seals perfectly to the Sanke flange. Easy and quick and perfect every time.
ss

That's a good method SS, i'll definitely be using it on my new build.

I still suggest wrapping the gasket in tape, if nothing else it gives it that nice slightly sticky quality; stays in place better.

got my ptfe gaskets from glacier tanks, they put the silicone ones to shame! well worth the small amount of money. I did indeed use sandpaper to shave down the keg side of the gasket and it provides a perfect solid seal. They really are good gaskets.

I think silicone is a superior gasket material but it's not inert like ptfe.

If ptfe wasn't inert to high temp ethanol no one would use the stuff connecting anything but pipe thread. It's too stiff.

personally I like the stiffness. the two sections being joined don't wobble aroind like they do with silicone

needmorstuff wrote:personally I like the stiffness.

No comment.

well if you could choose, would you want it wobbly? or stiff? no brainer to me

I was making a joke. You missed it.


Triclamp junctions using silicone gaskets aren't wobbily, you're doing something wrong.

Or maybe you make a joke on top of my joke and I missed it...

bingo - double joke!

HA