Brewzilla/Robobrew with DIY controller

[rubberduck71]

just to report after the changes.
although, as well as installing the voltage controller, i did increase my reflux column and packing height from 500mm to 1100mm.
the quality of the product is very different and much improved.
in pot spirit or reflux i can just twiddle the controller to achieve the exact output required.
pot spirit mode is usually about 80-90v (240v system)
reflux spirit mode, which requires more ooomph, i have the 500w element on, and use the the controller at about 80-100v.
then a quick clean, flick of the switch, and it's doing an AG beer.
i have even run a 2.5L charge of gin with no problem (or scorching)

Question for Howie & anyone else running one of these systems: the instructions say to set the temp to 210F & just let it run. I have the 120V version of the Digiboil (500W + 1000W elements) & the pot still head. Do you have them both on throughout the run, or is there any value in turning off one or the other when the distillate starts flowing?

I have a voltage controller from Brewhaus, but haven't rewired anything yet. To Dockem81's point above, having the 1000W element independently controlled seems to be the best route long-term.

Thanks!
Duck

[howie]

i'm no expert, but to me those instructions are wrong, or would only apply to a stripping run.
if i'm set up in pot still mode, i have 2 methods.
1 - stripping run - apart from taking fores off slowly (personal choice), yes both elements are full on.
maximum take off for me is 5-6L/hour, (with maximum smearing)
2 - spirit run - i just use the voltage controller to obtain the drip-drip-dribble output (about 1.3-1.5L/hour on my rig)

if you do a spirit run, without the controller, for the particular wash and your rig, using one or other of the elements, you may get lucky and get near the ideal output.
but if your output is too high, i think your ABV, and more importantly, your quality will suffer.
i use the controller knob like a turning a tap and the output responds within a couple of minutes.
i didn't mention that on a recent reflux run, mostly thanks to the controller, i was getting 95.7%ABV.
not only that, the heads and tails seem to be compressed and i encountered some of the best quality hearts so far in my limited experience.
luckily, i was saving a shed load of low wines for the upgrade, but some of the old stuff i made, may have to be re-run.

[Saltbush Bill]

Sounds like your getting the hang of this howie.

[acfixer69]

Nice to hear success songs

[rubberduck71]

Just completed my 2nd run with Digiboil pot still attachment (basically a dumbed-down version of Brewzilla), and here are some observations:

Mine is the 120V version & has 1000W & 500W elements on separate on/off switches. While I don't have a variable controller wired up yet, it occurred to me that instead of messing with the factory wiring underneath, why not drill a hole in the side & put in a water heater element that could be used separately or even in conjunction with them for distilling? That way I can still use the unit as intended for AG mashing. Thoughts from the HD brethren on that idea???

Stripping runs fairly straight forward: you can either run both elements @ 1500W or just the 1000W to rip through 5 gal of wash in under 3 hrs. I was concerned about possible scorching with some of the remnant sediment in my wash (even after cold-crashing & racking once), so turned off the 500W when it got to 150F & finished up on just the 1000W. I had a 9-10% wash pump out 3.5L starting @ 64% taking it down to 30%.

Spirit run I used Odin's 1.5 technique: 3.5L of stripping + just over 4 gal Kashi cereal mash (inspired by his Corn Flake T&T and also Rad's All Bran recipes). This version of Kashi is the 7 grain cereal flake, so I wanted to bring over as much flavor as possible.

1500W until head temp got to 190F then just kept the 500W on for a slow spirit run. After 200 mL foreshots, drew off 8x250 mL containers starting @ 75% down to 69%, then 3x500 mL which started @ 67% & dropped to 53%. Again, only my 2nd run on this new rig, so I felt I was in hearts here by smell & taste, so collected larger jars.

Then turned on 1000W on & 500W off & knocked out 1.2L of tails @ 40% to save for a future run.

It was about 6.5 hrs from start to finish. Everything is airing out now, so time will tell if I made correct cuts!

[howie]

Just completed my 2nd run with Digiboil pot still attachment (basically a dumbed-down version of Brewzilla), and here are some observations:

Mine is the 120V version & has 1000W & 500W elements on separate on/off switches. While I don't have a variable controller wired up yet, it occurred to me that instead of messing with the factory wiring underneath, why not drill a hole in the side & put in a water heater element that could be used separately or even in conjunction with them for distilling? That way I can still use the unit as intended for AG mashing. Thoughts from the HD brethren on that idea???

i have heard that someone had trouble sealing the element on such a small 12"/300mm diameter boiler, which was my original concern.
i don't know if that got resolved.
one of my other original options was to get a tri-clover ferrule tig welded to the boiler for the reason you state.
i still might, it would be good to get an extra 2400w for heating up a full charge, but maybe the hour it takes now, gives me plenty of time to get the rest of the gear together calmly
obv one advantage of the controller and concealed elements is to be able to do a small 2.5L gin run on low power with no scorching.

[Yummyrum]

Surely it would be easier just to wire in a two pole change over switch that switches between internal PID control and external power controller , than sticking in more elements .

[codes_dude]

i'm no expert, but to me those instructions are wrong, or would only apply to a stripping run.
if i'm set up in pot still mode, i have 2 methods.
1 - stripping run - apart from taking fores off slowly (personal choice), yes both elements are full on.
maximum take off for me is 5-6L/hour, (with maximum smearing)
2 - spirit run - i just use the voltage controller to obtain the drip-drip-dribble output (about 1.3-1.5L/hour on my rig)

if you do a spirit run, without the controller, for the particular wash and your rig, using one or other of the elements, you may get lucky and get near the ideal output.
but if your output is too high, i think your ABV, and more importantly, your quality will suffer.
i use the controller knob like a turning a tap and the output responds within a couple of minutes.
i didn't mention that on a recent reflux run, mostly thanks to the controller, i was getting 95.7%ABV.
not only that, the heads and tails seem to be compressed and i encountered some of the best quality hearts so far in my limited experience.
luckily, i was saving a shed load of low wines for the upgrade, but some of the old stuff i made, may have to be re-run.

To get the 95.7%, were there any other modifications? Do you have a needle valve and extension tube? at 500Watts, I was getting 93% temperature corrected. I now have the voltage controller installed, so I will see if running less power next time will give me better fractions.

[howie]

To get the 95.7%, were there any other modifications? Do you have a needle valve and extension tube? at 500Watts, I was getting 93% temperature corrected. I now have the voltage controller installed, so I will see if running less power next time will give me better fractions.
[/quote]
i just use a 2" S/S modular rig.
i've added an extra piece of column so i have a 1.1m column which is packed with 400mm of rolled copper mesh and 700mm of S/S scrubbers.
i've added neoprene insulation to boiler and column.
the rest has been due to reading, listening to the guys on here and learning to operate my still.
i don't have needle valves, it sounds like you have a t500(?)
on a reflux spirit run for neutral i have the 500w on and the 1900w at about 80-90v for a good rolling boil, yours may differ obv.
93% is pretty good, but it's all about quality for me now, so i'm not overly fussed about abv too much.
TBH i'd be happier with good quality at 91% then smeared rubbish at 95%.
as for fractions, i hold my still on full reflux for about 40-60mins until it reaches EQ.
i think i can spot EQ through a temp change in the column (the last 2 runs seem to indicate this)

[Yummyrum]

at 500Watts, I was getting 93% temperature corrected. I now have the voltage controller installed, so I will see if running less power next time will give me better fractions.

500w or less is too low for a 2” reflux still . If you want higher AVB , you need more reflux . To get more reflux , you need to send more vapour up the column ( and obviously it gets condensed back into reflux) .

You would be better increasing the power up to around 1800 -2000watts . Much more than that and the column will flood .

Turning down the power in a Pot still can help reduce smearing and therefore give a cleaner product but it does not work that way on a reflux still .

Crank it up ... not down

[howie]

at 500Watts, I was getting 93% temperature corrected. I now have the voltage controller installed, so I will see if running less power next time will give me better fractions.

500w or less is too low for a 2” reflux still . If you want higher AVB , you need more reflux . To get more reflux , you need to send more vapour up the column ( and obviously it gets condensed back into reflux) .

You would be better increasing the power up to around 1800 -2000watts . Much more than that and the column will flood .

Turning down the power in a Pot still can help reduce smearing and therefore give a cleaner product but it does not work that way on a reflux still .

Crank it up ... not down

your correct, 500w would be a waste of time with a 2" ( i guestimate i use about 1700-1800w)
but i think codes has an Alcoengine.

[Saltbush Bill]

No personal experience with an alcoengine , but as far as I know they mostly come paired to a boiler of the same type and Wattage as a T500....the old T500 boilers where 2000w.....Im told the newer ones are 1800w.
I agree with Yummy all things considered a Alcoengine should run fine at 1800-2000w

[codes_dude]

Thanks for the tips, that makes sense that more power = more reflux. I was worried about flooding but it sounds that shouldn't be an issue. Yes, I'm using an Alcoengine for the time being. Once I've learned the process a little better, I will be building one of my own. The difficulty is knowing what direction to go without much experience. I have these Alcoengine units to bridge the gap while I figure that out.

[howie]

Thanks for the tips, that makes sense that more power = more reflux.

i may be corrected, but not exactly how it (i think) it works.
the increased power is so you can achieve a good manageable boiling roll, which in turn gives you a manageable amount of vapour.
the amount of reflux is altered by controlling the dance between water rate through the reflux condensor and vapour rate.
this dance can stop any vapour getting past the RC (full reflux) or just let a small amount of vapour through.

[Saltbush Bill]

Nope your mixing it up with a t500 Howie......alcoengone is an LM....not CM.
Reflux rate on a LM is controlled by the rate at which the operator allows product to leave the still.

[howie]

Nope your mixing it up with a t500 Howie......alcoengone is an LM....not CM.
Reflux rate on a LM is controlled by the rate at which the operator allows product to leave the still.

doh, ok.
i suppose i'll find out how they work soon, my mate has bought one.