Still Microcontroller

[Backwoods Distillers]

I was thinking someone might be interested in a simple Arduino Still Controller. I used an Arduino Mega2560 microcontroller. The display is a shield for the mega 2560. Any display can be used. The set temperature for the column can be adjusted with the two buttons on the front of the case. Nothing fancy. See the attached pictures. Looking on the inside of the case, the four small relays are not being used in this software. They were used for my first Still, cactus style Stillhead. I used them to control a water and output valves. I also used DS18B20 temperature sensors in that Stillhead.
I am using a Still from Mile High Distilling. I use two Max6675 temperature boards. One for the column and one for the boiler. The solid-state relay is a 25 amp. Using 120 volt -1500 watt heating element. The microcontroller is using PWM to control the SSR.
On the display, you will see humidity and temp. This is an internal board that I had laying around and decided to put it in the case.
There is a SD Card datalogger for the date, time, and temperatures. It records every 15 minutes. Easy to change record times in the software. The file is in CSV format. You can import the file into an Excel spreadsheet and create charts of every run.
The software is not professionally written due to me not being a programmer. But the software does work fine.
Now, this controller does not tell you when to make your cuts (heads, hearts, and tails). Your nose and mouth will tell you that. It does not let you leave your Still unattended. It will give a good idea what the Still is doing. It is a fun project that can be expanded.
If interested, I can upload the software.

[RC Al]

Looks like a cool setup

From your description and whats on the readout, your trying to temp controll the boiler, The still will run and produce alc how you have it but will run a whole lot better if you set a wattage and let the reflux circuit do its thing, I dare say it would be fighting and smoothing out some of the issues that running by boiler temp causes. You will make better product by controlling the power.

You cant tell a liquid what temp it will vapourize at, there are many posts on here about how a pid is not the job for this task, we canna change the laws of physics captain

[Backwoods Distillers]

Thanks for your post.
The PID controller does control the wattage by varying voltage over time. Resistance is constant. We know grain alcohol boils at 173°F. I'm controlling how fast and hot the vapors are at the top of the column. I control the speed at which vapor turns back to liquid coming out of the condenser.
I'm doing very little reflux. I'm running whiskey.
Maybe I don't understanding what your saying.

[Yummyrum]

I love the controller and the effort you have put into it .

Would also love to see your code , it’s often the missing link in a lot of Arduino controller stuff that shows up here . ... Pretty bunch of stuff with no code is useless to the next fella trying to have a go .

Do you mind showing the Still you ate using it on ... and also , what is the Cactus head still you used to use.... you got mw stumped on that one .

[Backwoods Distillers]

Thank you Yummyrum
Yeah, when I first started distilling, the book I used to learn the art referred the stillhead as cactus style and it stuck with me.
I attached the Arduino Sketch.

[attachment=2]Cactus Style.jpg

Still_Controller_Max6675.rar

(3.45 KiB) Downloaded 76 times

Still_Controller_Max6675.rar

[RC Al]

Hi backwwods

If the temperature probe in the boiler is being used to regulate the power being applied, then it is a flawed system. From your pics I cant see a dial or switches marked "power" up and down so it heavily points towards being run this way.

Please understand that im not having a go at you or the excellent electrical work you have done, it looks very organised and well constructed, but there has been a spate of people turning up lately who are under the impression that a still will work just fine being run by boiler temp. Booze will come out the end but the column, but it will hold stability and seperate the fractions much better with a constant amount of vapor (watts set to a value, eg 2000), not an undulating amount that hysteresis settings usually provide as the element cycles arround the target.

If im completly off base with how your controls work, sweet & well done & ill be quiet

https://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=83231 prime example less than 2 weeks ago

[Backwoods Distillers]

RC Al,
I have no problem with anyone expressing their opinion. I always value others peoples opinions. So, don't be quiet.

It would be a flawed system if I were using the temperature probe in the boiler to regulate anything. I use the boiler temperature just to visualize what the temperature is in the boiler. It does no controlling of the system.
Oh, the pushbutton switches are there if you want to manually turn the temperature set point up or down. The boiler (heating element)is controlled by the vapors at the top of the column. The software will increase the temperature over time.

[Windy City]

Hey Backwoods Distillers
Your still appears to be a CM ( coolant management). The only thing I was able to find for a cactus head was a very old post regarding a Nixon Stone LM (liquid management). It also appears that your reflux condenser is a stainless jacket on the outside of your copper riser. This will not be efficient enough to bring the still into 100% reflux.
You said you were using very little reflux and running in pot still mode.
You will not be able to control your vapor temperature via power input in pot still mode.
http://www.kelleybarts.com/PhotoXfer/Re ... gMyth.html
When you hear distillers talking about controlling head temperature it is a combination of power (amperage) input in conjunction with controlling reflux over a properly packed column, whether it be controlled by CM-coolant management, VM-vapor management, LM-liquid management or CCVM-condenser controlled vapor management.
Hope this helps

[Backwoods Distillers]

Hi Windy City,
I appreciate your information and knowledge. It is helpful.
I do realize my setup is not efficient. It is all I have for right now. I'm always looking at other people's equipment and what setup their using.
I don't make my cuts by temperature. That being said, I might not start collecting hearts until 190°F. It seems to change due to the amount of alcohol in the wash. This is why I like to graphed my runs in Excel. It is interesting to see the run on paper and how each run is different.

It is all for fun and I enjoy the hobby. If I would go professional, my setup and Still equipment would be much different than my current setup. Like I said, I'm always looking for better Stills.
That's why I like posting here, I get knowledge and advice from others like you. Thank you.

Would you mind sharing some photos of your Still and setup?

[Saltbush Bill]

Plenty of photo of Windys still/ stills on the forum if you look back through his many posts. https://homedistiller.org/forum/downloa ... &mode=view
As others have stated , you really are doing it the hard way trying to regulate boiler and or column temp.

[Windy City]

Hey Backwoods Distillers
This is a link to my still I use to make neutral/vodka/gin.
My other still is a steam jacketed boiler with a 4 plate side column. I use that for brown spirits or making low wines to feed this one.

https://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtop ... 50&t=80901

There is nothing wrong with graphing everything especially because you say you are not making cuts by temp
When I first started I would write down info (head temp, abc, time etc) for every jar but then would only do my cuts by taste, smell and feel.
It's been a long time since I kept records like that but like I said it really does't hurt and in time when you are more comfortable you may find you no longer need to

Good Luck on your journey

[Backwoods Distillers]

WIndy City,

That is very nice Still. You did a great job building it.
I don't run much neutral spirits. Last time I ran a neutral spirit, the highest percent I could get out of my Still was 92% alcohol. Not bad for this type of Still.
Do you have some schematics on your controller?
Thank you for the pictures.

[StillerBoy]

There is nothing wrong with graphing everything especially because you say you are not making cuts by temp
When I first started I would write down info (head temp, abc, time etc) for every jar but then would only do my cuts by taste, smell and feel.
It's been a long time since I kept records like that but like I said it really does't hurt and in time when you are more comfortable you may find you no longer need to

Good Luck on your journey

That is where it's all at..

One does not need all that much info to make stilling enjoyable and easy.. just a few temp probe located at the place.. and develop an understanding of what vapor behavior are, and learning to managed them according to what the end product wanted..

Mars

[manu de hanoi]

it's overkill for the hobby market but if you size up a few components it could help artisan/professionals.
I've built a similar arduino controller for another product and I can tell this is a very neat product (I always struggle with positionning/holding in place the electrical components). I love the tiny cable ties, this is the work of an electrician if I dare make a guess.

If you do intend on using the relays :
If I may, it seems you have a single power supply (what's the button battery for ?), you must have a separate power supply for the arduino and the relay board and you must not share the ground of the signal (arduino) and the ground of the relay power (that jumper on the relay board). The relay coils are inductors and create nasty spikes that can reset the mcu.

[Backwoods Distillers]

Hi manu de hanol

The relays are use for my old Still setup. Not used in the above software. I used them to turn on and off the water and output valves. There is a separate power supply in the case for the valves which run through the relays. The valves have diodes across its coils for reverse voltage spikes. Don't really need the diodes on the valves but put them on anyway. The relays have the diodes on the relay board.
The button battery is for a RTC (real time clock). Using the time and date for logging to the SD card.