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Hello Everyone,
Posted: Mon Feb 01, 2010 2:42 pm
by computore
Like a lot of the posts I have seen, I have been brewing beer for awhile and I am starting to go down the dark road of distilling. So far I have read The Complete Distiller and a few other books. This site is unbelievable. I would like to build a reflux still and am going back and forth between the VM still in The Compleat Distiller and the Valved Reflux Still on the moonshine-still.com website. I have an electric boiler made from a used keg.Thanks FlyBoyTR for the Electric Powered Keg post. The pictures were great. I plan on making an easy flange and connecting the column with a clamp.
Any insight into VM vs. the Valved Relux would be appreciated. I realize that the VM is easier to opperate but that annoying voice in my head always seems to ask "What am I giving up for easy use?".
I am in the Eastern US and I have been reading this forum for about a year and I still can't get enough.
Thanks again
Re: Hello Everyone,
Posted: Mon Feb 01, 2010 2:59 pm
by kiwistiller
VEEEEEEEE EMMMMMMMMM!!!!!
I suppose the advantage of an offset over vm would be the ability to get a low reflux ratio, but in reality most of us just get a pot still head for that (stripping, flavoured spirits). You can build the product condenser on a VM to be modular for use on the pot still to cut down costs. Even if you do want an lm over a vm, the boka inline lm is a better (cheaper) choice than the offset head.
And what's this 'dark road' business???
Re: Hello Everyone,
Posted: Mon Feb 01, 2010 3:12 pm
by rubber duck
Welcome to the dark side. Good to have you aboard.
Re: Hello Everyone,
Posted: Mon Feb 01, 2010 8:43 pm
by blanikdog
Welcome Computore. I'm not a reflux user, but you will get stacks of help in here.
blanik
Re: Hello Everyone,
Posted: Tue Feb 02, 2010 11:30 am
by rad14701
Welcome to the forums, computore...
As for VM versus VR, which is a LM design, if you wanted to go with LM then a Bokakob would be a better choice than an offset head valved reflux design... Simpler to build, cheaper, and somewhat easier to run... A LM column is more flexible than a VM column because you can run a LM column in pot still mode which is something you can't do as easily with a VM column...
Good luck...
Re: Hello Everyone,
Posted: Tue Feb 02, 2010 6:41 pm
by computore
Thanks for the input. This whole "its your journey, figure it out" thing is both frustrating and rewarding at the same time. To think I considered buying!!!! The idea of being able to run in a Pot Still mode as well as reflux is high on the list. I will have to check out the bakobab(sp) plans.
You guys rock.
Re: Hello Everyone,
Posted: Tue Feb 02, 2010 6:45 pm
by kiwistiller
computore wrote:The idea of being able to run in a Pot Still mode as well as reflux is high on the list
you probably need a pot still head then
Re: Hello Everyone,
Posted: Tue Feb 02, 2010 7:24 pm
by HookLine
computore wrote:I will have to check out the bakobab(sp) plans..
Bokabob slanted plate or 'mini-still' is what you are looking for. Check Pikluk's thread in the Reading Lounge. Also, the original plans are for a 1.5", but pretty well everybody does it in 2 or 3".... 1.5" is getting slow.
kiwistiller wrote:computore wrote:The idea of being able to run in a Pot Still mode as well as reflux is high on the list
you probably need a pot still head then
+ 1. If you make the Bokabob slanted plate head so it is detachable from the main column and can be mounted straight onto the boiler, then you can use it as a pot still.
Re: Hello Everyone,
Posted: Wed Feb 03, 2010 5:17 pm
by computore
The bokabob slanted plate design looks like the one for me. Simplicity in all things is what I try for and this design fits the bill. I have the cut templates for the plates. As soon as I get my electrical control sorted out I am off to get some copper. I want to follow Hookline's suggestion with the detachable head. Is there a problem with using another easy-flange/tc-clamp to connect the head to the column? When I go the Pot still route and attach the head directly to the boiler what would be a good distance between the bottom of the lower plate and the keg? I am trying to gauge where to put the joint for the head.
Re: Hello Everyone,
Posted: Thu Feb 04, 2010 1:52 am
by HookLine
computore wrote:I want to follow Hookline's suggestion with the detachable head. Is there a problem with using another easy-flange/tc-clamp to connect the head to the column?
Shouldn't be, that arrangement has been used in a few columns here.
When I go the Pot still route and attach the head directly to the boiler what would be a good distance between the bottom of the lower plate and the keg? I am trying to gauge where to put the joint for the head.
I would think 2-3 inches between the lower plate and the connector would be plenty. You can go higher if you want. When it is used for a reflux head you can add packing into the gap (leave an inch or so clear between the top of the packing and the lower plate). When it is used as a pot still head, just remove the packing from the head section. You can leave some packing in the head section when using it as a pot still, which gives some extra separation of components in the vapour, and that can be useful sometimes.
Re: Hello Everyone,
Posted: Thu Feb 04, 2010 3:54 am
by computore
Thanks for all your help. I am sure I will post some pictures when this thing comes together. In the future is this the best place for beginner questions?
Re: Hello Everyone,
Posted: Thu Feb 04, 2010 4:38 am
by HookLine
computore wrote:Thanks for all your help. I am sure I will post some pictures when this thing comes together. In the future is this the best place for beginner questions?
This forum (Welcome Center) is just to say hello and introduce yourself. Post any further questions in either the
Novice Distillers, or
Mentor Q&A, or
Safety and Related Issues forums.