Hi folks,
I went all in today and bought some copper! I am so excited for this build that I couldn't wait to put something together tonight. I am now the proud owner of a 60" long 3/4" ID Liebig which will attach to my lyne arm with a 3/4" union. I also have a 1/2" ball valve which I will attach to my output to control the flow at the still. I'll be polishing copper before I solder that on though.....
I also bought some 2" t0 complete the pot still head.... I'll get some ferrules and tri-clamps on it in select locations depending on what I decide is worth making modular. Eventually, once I learn more, I will build a boka head that will share some parts. This will all be mounted on a 15.5 gal stainless keg with an immersion heater.... boy do I have some work ahead of me!
Here's a pic of the bits I acquired today...
First still started
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- corene1
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Re: First still started
Nice to hear you are going to build a still. Just a couple of thoughts. I would put the 3/4 union on the horizontal plane instead of the vertical plane. That way you can use the union connection to adjust the height of the takeoff on your still. Also no need for a ball valve to control the output of the still. That should be kept an open system so no accidental pressure buildup can happen. You control the takeoff with heat input not a ball valve.
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Re: First still started
Hi corene1, thanks for the feedback. I'm not sure I follow what you mean about the union? I was planning on connecting the liebig straight to the lyne arm via the union. I will have a ferrule/tri clamp on the swan neck so the lyne is adjustable. I was unsure about this connection so I am eager to understand your comment.
Also, I poorly communicated the location of the ball valve. It will be located at the exit port of the water jacket to dial in the flow. There will be no obstruction in the vapor path as I do not enjoy picking copper from my extremities!
Also, I poorly communicated the location of the ball valve. It will be located at the exit port of the water jacket to dial in the flow. There will be no obstruction in the vapor path as I do not enjoy picking copper from my extremities!
- corene1
- HD Distilling Goddess
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- Location: The western Valley
Re: First still started
In your picture it looks like the union is connected inline with the liebeg and it will point straight up and down. If you mount the union to the liebeg with a 90 degree turn at the top of the liebeg then the union will be in the horizontal position and you can swivel the liebeg up and down to adjust the takeoff height for whatever vessel or collection table you are using. It will also make it easier to tie in with a thumper in the future if you decide to.
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Re: First still started
Thanks Jog. I will do something similar and bend a 60 deg angle. My lyne arm will be adjustable as well so I should be set!
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Re: First still started
2 years later….
Instead of the 15gal keg i was planning on, I obtained a prohibition era copper still from a friend’s attic. I removed the lead solder and plumbing fittings (lots of rubber), and replaced them with a 4” sanitary to connect to my previously constructed parts.
Ran vinegar through it, ran a sacrificial run, ran the real deal.
136 proof, nice and slow….
Instead of the 15gal keg i was planning on, I obtained a prohibition era copper still from a friend’s attic. I removed the lead solder and plumbing fittings (lots of rubber), and replaced them with a 4” sanitary to connect to my previously constructed parts.
Ran vinegar through it, ran a sacrificial run, ran the real deal.
136 proof, nice and slow….
Re: First still started
The ferules & tri clamps you are using now are a better choice then the unions in the old pics for the long run users.