Planning my build
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- Hangtownspirits
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- Joined: Mon May 09, 2022 1:31 am
Planning my build
I'm currently planning my build out and I would like some feedback from someone that is not a prick like my friend who likes to send you in circles for his own amusement lol. I plan to do all copper 12 inch wide still and am currently trying to figure out how tall for about 5 1/2 gallons to give extra gap for boilover prevention. I plan a copper thumper and worm but 1 shiny thing at a time lol. Here is a rough sketch I did on my touchscreen
I'm debating on a 6 inch tri-clamp at 1 of the red lines. This way I have more options for building add-ons later and myself I'm thinking safer seal at the collar for the cap to lock on. My buddy said it is safer to just make the collar 6 to 10 inches high and integrate the cap skirt into the body and make the tri-clamp the cap plate. Knowing him I truly cannot tell if he is just messing with me to make reaching the bottom harder for cleaning or if he is serious about safety so I think it is best to ask you guys about the placement. I plan to have a short spout on the cap for less chance of breaking during storage. plus I can easily screw a cap on if I put the tri-clamp as the cap plate to put a column on it.
I plan to fold and solder the boiler bottom, sides and vapor cone no rivets. Also debating on what fold and solder is better on the vapor cone A or B. any feedback I can get will be much appreciated.- Attachments
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- Vapor cone A
- Screenshot 2022-05-17 5.27.42 AM.png (13.78 KiB) Viewed 1115 times
Al Bundy for President
Sponsored by NO MA'AM (National Organization of Men Against Amazonian Masterhood)
P.S. No chickens allowed lol
Sponsored by NO MA'AM (National Organization of Men Against Amazonian Masterhood)
P.S. No chickens allowed lol
- EricTheRed
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Re: Planning my build
Converting to metric, you want a 30cm diameter, holding 5.5 gallons (US or Imperial?? ie: 3.78 L/G or 4.54 L/G - i'll go with real measurements)
That means you need a 25L capacity, plus 20% for headspace, so a 30 L boiler
At 7 L (approx) per 100mm of height, you would need a boiler 43cm tall
Back to inches - that is about 16 - 17" tall
Even if you put a 6" collar on it, with a 6" ferrel - you will be able to reach.
so Imperial, Pie are Square(d) = 3.14 x 6" squared = 113 square inches surface area
at 277 cubic inches per imperial gallon, 5.5 x 277 = 1525 cubic inches which equates to 13.5" height plus 20% = 16.2" (rounded figures)
That means you need a 25L capacity, plus 20% for headspace, so a 30 L boiler
At 7 L (approx) per 100mm of height, you would need a boiler 43cm tall
Back to inches - that is about 16 - 17" tall
Even if you put a 6" collar on it, with a 6" ferrel - you will be able to reach.
so Imperial, Pie are Square(d) = 3.14 x 6" squared = 113 square inches surface area
at 277 cubic inches per imperial gallon, 5.5 x 277 = 1525 cubic inches which equates to 13.5" height plus 20% = 16.2" (rounded figures)
My fekking eyes are bleeding! Installed BS Filters - better! :D
Life has gotten interesting!
Life has gotten interesting!
Re: Planning my build
Hey there. Just saw this post now but wrote a few suggestions in your welcome post earlier. Might be worth a look unless you're determined to make a copper boiler. Looking at your plans most basic plumbers lead free solder should be fine as well as any water based flux (although some swear hey harris stay brite/clean flux) as you don't have any real load bearing joints. If you're worried go for a solder with maybe 3% silver for strength but its usually reserved for copper to SS soldering. Also a Liebig condenser might prove easier, certainly more practical and efficient.
Skál
Skál
Re: Planning my build
If your looking at building your own copper still here is some good information.
viewtopic.php?f=50&t=75603
viewtopic.php?f=50&t=75603
- Hangtownspirits
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Re: Planning my build
Thank you very much for the measurements EricTheRed. Math is my biggest weak point. New problem is the more I read about electric heating options the more I think about the internal heating elements vs external electric heating. After thinking about it the guy I know does not strain his mash before runs and he is the 1 who told me to avoid the internal heating elements at all cost. Says you lose too much flavor straining the solids.
My thoughts are to possibly go with the Camco 5500w ULWD wavy element that Skál suggested to me and do a 10 gallon just shorter and fatter. This is indoor btw and I have been doing a lot of research on heat sources. I have wanted to start doing this for a long time but after watching him do a run It's lit a fire under my ass. Plus it is that time of year the local fruit I can go forage in my area is going to be ripening in the next month or 2 so I got that itch lol. I really do want all copper and plan to build a thumper after I get the still and worm built. Then build ... and then build..... and then build.... lol I have a friend that will help me with the build and I bet between the 2 of us we can build just about anything that doesn't require things like a CNC machine or something big like that.
back to reading through the blood soaked glasses
My thoughts are to possibly go with the Camco 5500w ULWD wavy element that Skál suggested to me and do a 10 gallon just shorter and fatter. This is indoor btw and I have been doing a lot of research on heat sources. I have wanted to start doing this for a long time but after watching him do a run It's lit a fire under my ass. Plus it is that time of year the local fruit I can go forage in my area is going to be ripening in the next month or 2 so I got that itch lol. I really do want all copper and plan to build a thumper after I get the still and worm built. Then build ... and then build..... and then build.... lol I have a friend that will help me with the build and I bet between the 2 of us we can build just about anything that doesn't require things like a CNC machine or something big like that.
back to reading through the blood soaked glasses
Al Bundy for President
Sponsored by NO MA'AM (National Organization of Men Against Amazonian Masterhood)
P.S. No chickens allowed lol
Sponsored by NO MA'AM (National Organization of Men Against Amazonian Masterhood)
P.S. No chickens allowed lol
Re: Planning my build
Hey mate, you're in US yeah? Remember that with the Camco 240V element running on US 120V you'll get half power (just saying cos u mentioned math lol). Sounds fabrication wise you're sorted between you and your mate. If worried about the element that's the best I can think of unless you want to consider some kind of mesh bottom to screen the element? Alternately you could build (I know you want copper but...) an electric keg to send steam into your copper boiler mash? If you want to have full solids in your mash, short of a jacketed boiler I'm out of ideas sorry mate.
Skál
Edit: you can always use the backset (leftover from boiler after distillation) into your next distillation to add flavour. Because of the nature of this hobby there are many 'fixes' people smarter than me have found over the years to get great results given the limitations of an illegal mostly hobby with domestic equipment. As far as that element goes, not sure how to describe but I've ran boiler charges of 40L with 2Kg cornflakes,weetabix,shredded wheat,porridge oats etc and probably the same weight of frozen fruits after fermentation.They gave me no problem whatsoever.Hope that gives you an idea.
When you say "inside" where do you mean? Home or garage or?
Also,I COULD be wrong but I think some have filled the bottom of their boiler with marbles to protect the element from particularly shytty wash/mash. Again , another work around. You could just solder a hook inside the boiler, strain your wash then hang the solids in a brewers bag elevated above the elements. Adapt and overcome and get drunk
Honestly,just get a keg,some 2" copper for still head and build a liebig condenser. The traditional seems so tempting I know but that would be so much more efficient and you'll be ready in time for your fruit harvest. Build a copper still, turn keg into thumper. Build thumper, turn keg into mash tun, water boiler for mash, feints storage vessel. It's a $50 SS vessel that you can reuse and reuse. Ill stfu now XD
Skál
Edit: you can always use the backset (leftover from boiler after distillation) into your next distillation to add flavour. Because of the nature of this hobby there are many 'fixes' people smarter than me have found over the years to get great results given the limitations of an illegal mostly hobby with domestic equipment. As far as that element goes, not sure how to describe but I've ran boiler charges of 40L with 2Kg cornflakes,weetabix,shredded wheat,porridge oats etc and probably the same weight of frozen fruits after fermentation.They gave me no problem whatsoever.Hope that gives you an idea.
When you say "inside" where do you mean? Home or garage or?
Also,I COULD be wrong but I think some have filled the bottom of their boiler with marbles to protect the element from particularly shytty wash/mash. Again , another work around. You could just solder a hook inside the boiler, strain your wash then hang the solids in a brewers bag elevated above the elements. Adapt and overcome and get drunk
Honestly,just get a keg,some 2" copper for still head and build a liebig condenser. The traditional seems so tempting I know but that would be so much more efficient and you'll be ready in time for your fruit harvest. Build a copper still, turn keg into thumper. Build thumper, turn keg into mash tun, water boiler for mash, feints storage vessel. It's a $50 SS vessel that you can reuse and reuse. Ill stfu now XD
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- Swill Maker
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Re: Planning my build
Make sure the opening in the top is at least 4". You'll want to be able to get your arm down in there to scrub the boiler at some point.
Re: Planning my build
another copper boiler pain if that's the point. SS kegs for the win yaaaaay XDThomasBrewer wrote: ↑Tue May 17, 2022 7:48 pm Make sure the opening in the top is at least 4". You'll want to be able to get your arm down in there to scrub the boiler at some point.
If your good with engineering a keg minus handles,rims etc and a copper plating is a sexy minx. If metal Porn is your thing, which everyone here's is.
If you and your mate can TIG and Braze you're SORTED! Do the keg thing, Still sorted in a week and time to find a nice ammo box or whatever for your controller. 3 weeks to learn what you're doing running your still for a nice drop before all your free fruit starts falling. You can reuse everything element, liebig etc and chill while you build your dream copper job over winter. I'm a fan of overengineering, was taught as a kid. Never waste. You sound keen as F but I think rushing for a copper job now given you have no experience of grain etc might backfire. My suggestion requires a recyclable $50?
I'm very drunk
Last edited by Skál on Tue May 17, 2022 8:02 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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- Master of Distillation
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Re: Planning my build
second to the last line in this post says 1/4 power. It's been discussed many times.
viewtopic.php?f=15&t=62162&p=7456816&hi ... p#p7456722
be water my friend
Re: Planning my build
Yep! As I said I'm very drunk. Thx Cob!!!
Theres my point mate. I had an idea too and itching to go! I spent 3 or 4 months reading every day but...the more I read the more I questioned and less I knew. Added another 2 months but I wanted to do it solo. If you have $$$ etc go for it but to read what you need and understand why. Seriously I'd advise the keg option. You'll be $50 more for mash tun/water heater/etc but to be honest you won't change it I wouldn't think. It's a metal box for boiling water. Leave the romantics nostalgia for now.
Skál
Theres my point mate. I had an idea too and itching to go! I spent 3 or 4 months reading every day but...the more I read the more I questioned and less I knew. Added another 2 months but I wanted to do it solo. If you have $$$ etc go for it but to read what you need and understand why. Seriously I'd advise the keg option. You'll be $50 more for mash tun/water heater/etc but to be honest you won't change it I wouldn't think. It's a metal box for boiling water. Leave the romantics nostalgia for now.
Skál
- Hangtownspirits
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Re: Planning my build
My buddy is pushing to go with the keg option for now after I showed him what all you guys are saying plus the looking around I did. Will have to order to get the copper I want and time is a factor if I want to mash in fresh stuff this year. I need to figure out a good heater element and get moving. I plan a pony keg and that gives me a little extra play room I want. I still want that sexy copper still 1 day lol
So much blood must keep reading lol
So much blood must keep reading lol
Al Bundy for President
Sponsored by NO MA'AM (National Organization of Men Against Amazonian Masterhood)
P.S. No chickens allowed lol
Sponsored by NO MA'AM (National Organization of Men Against Amazonian Masterhood)
P.S. No chickens allowed lol
- Salt Must Flow
- Distiller
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- Joined: Sat Jan 29, 2022 2:06 pm
- Location: Wuhan China (Novel Coronavirus Laboratory)
Re: Planning my build
This is the heating element I use and it works great. I also have one of those Camco elements and bought a Still Dragon Element Guard kit so the overall price is higher. I prefer the Dernord element.Hangtownspirits wrote: ↑Wed May 18, 2022 3:11 am My buddy is pushing to go with the keg option for now after I showed him what all you guys are saying plus the looking around I did. Will have to order to get the copper I want and time is a factor if I want to mash in fresh stuff this year. I need to figure out a good heater element and get moving. I plan a pony keg and that gives me a little extra play room I want. I still want that sexy copper still 1 day lol
So much blood must keep reading lol
It's hard to beat the convenience of a 15.5 gal keg boiler. They're easy to modify, are tough as nails and are a good size.
- Hangtownspirits
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Re: Planning my build
I have been doing some searching my local area and so far this is the only keg I have found. Wanted to check if it is a lost cause before I check it off i widen my search area. It has been converted to a homebrew kettle. So not sure if it is safe without checking with more experienced people. Also if safe to convert still what would be the best options
Al Bundy for President
Sponsored by NO MA'AM (National Organization of Men Against Amazonian Masterhood)
P.S. No chickens allowed lol
Sponsored by NO MA'AM (National Organization of Men Against Amazonian Masterhood)
P.S. No chickens allowed lol
Re: Planning my build
Lot of work to convert to a still, if it's the right price it would definantly have a place in your shed for mashing.
It's amazing how much you can do with a keg with only the standard two inch tri clamp on top
It's amazing how much you can do with a keg with only the standard two inch tri clamp on top
" you can pick your nose and you can pick your friends; but you can't always wipe your friends off on your saddle" sage advice from Kinky Friedman
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Re: Planning my build
Not impossible, but you're going to have to fit a "lid" onto that. There are various ways that you could do that, but you lose the advantage of the built-in 2" tri-clamp that could be used either as a drain, or for attaching your riser or column.
"I have a potstill that smears like a fresh plowed coon on the highway" - Jimbo
A little spoon feeding *For New & Novice Distillers
A little spoon feeding *For New & Novice Distillers
Re: Planning my build
Be patient.
Find an unmolested keg for your distillation kettle.
Pick that one there up to mash with.
Find an unmolested keg for your distillation kettle.
Pick that one there up to mash with.
Trample the injured and hurdle the dead.
- Salt Must Flow
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Re: Planning my build
Like Sporacle said, a kettle like that is handy to have. I found a cheap glass lid for a frying pan, centered it over my keg, traced around it and cut the hole to fit it perfectly. If you can do that with this keg, I'd buy it for the right price. I installed a 2" ferrule on the side so I can heat it with either electric or propane.