Strip/Spirit run on 3" VM

[needmorstuff]

So after my calening run (vinegar) and my sacrificial run (25l 12% sugar wash) I did 3 x stripping runs in pot still configuration.

Strip run
It's a 50l keg and had around 45l charge, took about an hour and 15 minutes to start producing output, I had to reduce power from max 4kw to 3.5kw just to save on cooling water really, the liebig could just about cope but the output was very hot. That gave me 3.5l @ 62%, 3.5l @ 53% 3.5l @ 35% and 2l @ 20% - which in theory could have gave me 5.72l @ 96% give or take

Spirit run
put all strip into boiler and added some extra water to take it down to 30% abv
heat up at full power 4kw, took about 45 mins
refluxed for 10 mins by closing valve fully, had to increase cooling water to reflux condensor as steam was escaping from the top of the column.. the increased water stopped that but I dialed power back to 3.25kw as this was what the online calculators suggested would give me a vapour speed of 20 inches per second

For my neutral collection I like to take my total expected output and divide it, first 25% collect in 200ml jars, middle 50% in a single vessel, last 25% into 200ml jars (so 5.72l, collect 1.43 in jars then 2.86 in a demojohn, then another 1.43 litres in jars)

open valve 3 turns (13 full turns required to fully open) and collected 250ml 2 drops a second
open valve to 4 turns and collected a further 400ml in 200ml jars
open to 5 turns for and collect a further 800ml in jars
opened valve full and collected 2.86l in a demojohn
I then left the valve fully open and collected 4 x 200ml in jars
I then noticed the temp change from 77.9 (it had been static there for the vast majority of the session) 78
I smelt the distillate and perceived what could have been the start of tails (jury is out until it's rested for a day)
after another 200ml temp jumped again to 78.1, again tailsy smell a little more aparent
I collected a further 100ml and switched off as it was definitely into tails

[bluefish_dist]

Sounds pretty successful. For equalizing the column, back off the power. 2000w should be plenty to equalize and take off heads slowly. You will find less power will give cleaner product. It will be slower, but cleaner as you are not pushing the tails up the column as fast. So once you start taking off hearts, up the power to get 20ft/sec and maximize output.

[kimbodious]

For faster heat ups and lower overall energy usage I'd reccomend you always insulate your boiler and also the reflux column.

[needmorstuff]

thanks for the tips!

I have read before that after heat up it is a good plan to back off power so that the heavier compounds will find i difficult, I will add this to my protocol. 2kw until first 25% has been drawn off. I presume that further control using the valve will allow me to control the output to a nice slow speed.

I have indeed got a length of armaflex 19mm closed cell insulation tube on order for the column and will be looking at boiler insulation shortly.

My initial smelling and tasting of the output (not in any way my normal protocol for deducing cuts) is that the tails and heads are more compressed than what I am used to from my t500 still. I will leave it a few days to air then make my cuts.

One things for sure is that it's aezo.. the column has 125mm of tightly wound copper mesh at the bottom and then 1000mm of spp - the spp is amazing stuff. I am considering getting a sightglass imported from china just so I can have a look see at what's going on.. I dont think it's a requirement but a nice to have.

Do you guys get repeatable indications from temp readings at the Tee? I did notice a temp increase of .1 then .2 that seemed to signal the onset of tails.

[kimbodious]

When I feel the heat rushing up the column I back off the power until the heat stops at the bottom part of the RC (and stays there). You will be surprised by how little power you need to keep a packed column in equilibrium. My 2" system only requires 600W to keep it in equilibrium initially.

I gave up on thermometers on my CCVM, I think air movement around the top of the column affected the thermo readings more than the product.

I can do without a thermo but I wouldn't want to be without the sightglass right below the offtake. I monitor the level of condensate in the sightglass and reduce power when I observe condensate rising towards the top of the glass.

You can achieve azeo type numbers but the product can still be smeared with heads. The test will be in the tasting. The more runs you do the more you'll understand how hard you can run your still when taking off heads.

If you run your still too hard you'll be juggling power settings vs cooling flow, it makes it stressful. You'll find those sweet spots as you gain more experience running your new system and then you can be more able to pich up and address the small changes through the run

[needmorstuff]

I couldn't believe how quickly the heat travelled up the column... took seconds for the thermos to go from 10 to 78c.

I'll get the sightglass ordered.

when you talk about the condensate rising to the top of the glass.. are you referring to a solid pool of liquid? I.e. managing the flood level?

[bluefish_dist]

You can get a good reading in the take off arm of the T. If you are holding azeo, you will find that temp changes due to the weather. Yes the boiling point will change as the pressure changes. I have even had it change during a run as a front came in. Makes it hard to detect the slight rise for tails.

[needmorstuff]

another weapon in the arsenal though none the less

[kimbodious]

...when you talk about the condensate rising to the top of the glass.. are you referring to a solid pool of liquid? I.e. managing the flood level?

yes, the condensate from the RC although in my case it is bubbling with the vapour rising through it!

I pick up on tails making an appearance when the condensate level in the sightglass suddenly drops and the glass fogs slightly.

[needmorstuff]

excellent, thanks for the info.

[kimbodious]

what I see through the sightglass https://youtu.be/jAP21_wocvQ" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

[needmorstuff]

even better! thanks again

[needmorstuff]

column now insulated with 19mm armaflex closed cell foam.

what thickness do you guys/gals put on the boiler?

[kimbodious]

dunno about the thickness, the stuff I used is essentially bubblewrap with foil outer in which case it is the air gap between the boiler and the insulation that is important.

[needmorstuff]

i was looking at closed cell foam, 10mm. but then my boiler would have insulation envy as the column is 19mm!

istill use 13mm so 10mm should be ok for me.. unless my search kungfu increases and i find some thicker @ 2m x 0.5m

[kimbodious]

The thinner material will be fine for the boiler as long as you stiil remember to leave an air gap.The insulation is probably more important on the reflux column than for anywhere else. I don't bother using insulation on the riser on my pot still bit I always have my boiler insulated.

[needmorstuff]

there won't be an air gap.. its adhesive backed. The istill certainly doesn't have an air gap. What's ya thinking kimbo?

[Twisted Brick]

Different materials have varying resistances to heat transfer. (Think metal vs wood, or even plastic). An air gap has the lowest r-value since there is no vehicle for conduction and greatly increases insulative efficiency.

[needmorstuff]

now my head hurts.. so provided there is next to no air movement in my still area then no insulation is the best insulation of all?

also my column that I just insulated - the closed cell foam "pipe lagging" I have just put on - useless?

[OtisT]

now my head hurts.. so provided there is next to no air movement in my still area then no insulation is the best insulation of all?

also my column that I just insulated - the closed cell foam "pipe lagging" I have just put on - useless?

Ya, just wait for your entire room to reach equilibrium and you are all set.

Closed cell foam is a great insulator, with No Gap. Air, not so great an insulator. Wet air, even worse. If you can guarantee that the air is sealed so that no air enters and no air leaves, it's not so bad. This is why closed cell is so good; It is small air bubbles, or some other gas, that is sealed in each cell.

Otis

[needmorstuff]

I wondered why they used it and not air to lag pipes

I guess the buble wrap stuff with a few layers has the same or better effect.. plenty of trapped air that doesn't move.

[OtisT]

I wondered why they used it and not air to lag pipes

I guess the buble wrap stuff with a few layers has the same or better effect.. plenty of trapped air that doesn't move.

I see folks using it and they say they are happy. I’m not going to say it is bad, but I would be concerned with the heat that that type of plastic is exposed to. If there are any hot spots, will it melt? I guess as distillers we are used to using our noses, and you will know if that takes place. This is just my personal opinion.

To be honest, since I went with a larger heat source I have not insulated my boiler, though I would like to do it again. I used closed cell foam, about 1 cm, with my previous boiler was not adhesive and it worked great. One problem I had was that the foam expanded a bit with heat near the heat source. (The bottom of my pan, which was on a hot plate). Just a little expansion, but enough to bother me because the sleeve of insulation would slip down. I don’t think I would have the same issue with my new keg and element.

The other issue was that my closed cell foam was not covered by another material. My foam surface would rip or tear with ease. I put blue tape on it once and when I removed the tape it took off the smooth surface layer of foam with it. It’s a great insulator, but it is a delicate material. Treat it well and it will last. Of you can find it with some form of rip-stop coating on the outside, even better.

Otis

[needmorstuff]

thanks, good info