My first boiler build

Many like to post about a first successful ferment (or first all grain mash), or first still built/bought or first good run of the still. Tell us about all of these great times here.
Pics are VERY welcome, we drool over pretty copper 8)

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Tom Kat
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Re: My first boiler build

Post by Tom Kat »

Expat wrote: Sat Jan 09, 2021 6:03 pm Looks good!

If you ever want to do any other ports *now* is the time. Welding 3 connections won't be 3x time price, setup costs and such.

How are you set for fill/cleaning and drain?
Still trying to figure it all out...
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Expat
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Re: My first boiler build

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Tom Kat wrote: Sun Jan 10, 2021 4:30 am Still trying to figure it all out...
Common advice on this topic is that you definitely need a drain, lugging a keg full of scalding water to a sink or ditch SUCKS; 3/4" is cost effective and gets the job done in a timely manner, 1" or larger if you don't like to wait.

Taking down the still head (particularly the column) is a pain so.. 2" or 3". Some people feel they'll want to scrub the inside and use a 4" instead. Personal preference.

Probably too late in your circumstance, but many people (myself included) flipped the keg and converted the original keg port for the drain.
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Re: My first boiler build

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Re: My first boiler build

Post by Tom Kat »

OK this drain thing has got me a little vexed. I get that valve on the end, and the spear from the keg. And I can see how the hole right in the bottom is the best place. But what to you connect the SS spear to that also goes in the bottom hole of the keg?
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Re: My first boiler build

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20210112_171823.jpg
20210112_171815.jpg
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Re: My first boiler build

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I flipped my keg and used the original opening to mount a 2" TC and some plumbing to make the drain. Should work the same if you weld in a 2" TC or similar. See my sig if you're interested to see what I did. Never bothered with the keg spear, just threw it in a box somewhere.
rps20180818_213616.jpg
Last edited by Expat on Tue Jan 12, 2021 5:39 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: My first boiler build

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Image

My only regret is not using 3/4" or 1" parts, the 1/2" is a little slow.
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Re: My first boiler build

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thanks that helps
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Re: My first boiler build

Post by shadylane »

Tom Kat wrote: Sun Jan 03, 2021 4:49 pm well here is the thing. I am an old country boy who overcomes lots of things on my own.
I hear Ya, there's a bunch of folks here that are the same.
On a side note.
This build probably isn't going to be the last one :wink:
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Tom Kat
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Re: My first boiler build

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true. I need to make some runs to get the feel for all of it.
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Re: My first boiler build

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So how about this for a drain? It would be easy to att
20210116_151126.jpg
ach a hose to....
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Re: My first boiler build

Post by still_stirrin »

Tom, that “hose bib” a.k.a sillcock, has a rubber bonnet/washer for the seat to seal. Not good when exposed to your hot wash. I suggest a ball valve, which has a stainless ball and teflon seals. You can get them in your big box store (same place you spied that sillcock).
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Re: My first boiler build

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Thanks for the answer! I stumbled across this and thought why not? But now I know.

I saw this when I was over looking at ball valves. As long as they are lead free are they ok? or is all SS a better route to go? I am thinking keg spear out of the side neat the bottom and a ball valve. I know you said a 1" ferrule which have not forgot about...
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Re: My first boiler build

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A regular ball valve is fine for a drain, the ball will be stainless and seals teflon even though the body is brass. An all stainless valve would be the best possible option but not worth the added expense in this position.
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Re: My first boiler build

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And people use copper for drain tubes I noticed
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Re: My first boiler build

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Some use sanitary stainless, but copper is easy to get and work with using off the shelf parts. Seen a few builds using the keg sanke port as the drain and 2" SS components.
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Re: My first boiler build

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Yes, mine has a 3/4” stainless reducer (1/2” ID) welded to the bottom head. And from that, I have a 3/4” copper female adapter threaded on and run 3/4 type M copper past the skirt, where I have 3/4” male copper adapter threaded into a lead-free brass body ball valve that has a stainless ball. I don’t worry about exposure to the wash. However, I wish it was all 3/4” instead of starting with the 1/2” bore at the keg. It slows the drainage down. Looks kinda’ like Zed’s design.

Better yet would be 1” ID, like the spear is.

If I could TiG weld, I’d use a spear (I have a few around here), contour it to mate with the bottom head, and then weld it to the bottom. I’d punch a hole through the skirt and run the spear out past the skirt. Then, weld on a ferrule for a tri-clover valve. Neat and tidy solution. But, it does require a little TiG welding.
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Re: My first boiler build

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still_stirrin wrote: Sat Jan 16, 2021 6:43 pm Yes, mine has a 3/4” stainless reducer (1/2” ID) welded to the bottom head. And from that, I have a 3/4” copper female adapter threaded on and run 3/4 type M copper past the skirt, where I have 3/4” male copper adapter threaded into a lead-free brass body ball valve that has a stainless ball. I don’t worry about exposure to the wash. However, I wish it was all 3/4” instead of starting with the 1/2” bore at the keg. It slows the drainage down. Looks kinda’ like Zed’s design.

Better yet would be 1” ID, like the spear is.

If I could TiG weld, I’d use a spear (I have a few around here), contour it to mate with the bottom head, and then weld it to the bottom. I’d punch a hole through the skirt and run the spear out past the skirt. Then, weld on a ferrule for a tri-clover valve. Neat and tidy solution. But, it does require a little TiG welding.
ss
This is the most elegant solution for sure. I guess I need to be a risk taker and try my hand at fabrication. I am hiring a welder anyway, so contouring the spear will be on me. Lets say I made the spear end align perfect with the bottom. What size hole would you drill in the bottom to drain into the spear?
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Re: My first boiler build

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I just took a good look at my keg with a tape measure, straight edge, and keg spear. Getting the spear profile just right will be the trick for me.

This will be a challenge...but hey, life is all about challenges.
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Re: My first boiler build

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20210117_114616.jpg
20210117_114813.jpg
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Re: My first boiler build

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A grinding disc on a cutoff saw is your friend. That, and a Dremel with a grinding drum to smooth the edges. Getcha’ a Sharpie to mark the contour (rough at first). As you get closer to the shape, it will fit better and better.

Then mark the keg head where you’ll need to open it up to mate with the spear. A good TiG welder will be able to weld a fillet weld between the two parts.
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Re: My first boiler build

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Honestly I don't like the idea of welding a non modular connection to the bottom of a keg (or any place really...) I'd put a 2" TC and adapt it do any kind of plumbing you want. I went with 3/4" which is fine and saves on parts, particularly the valve. If I find new purpose for it or decided I need to drain the keg in 10 seconds I can easily remove it and mount anything I can think of.
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Re: My first boiler build

Post by tiramisu »

Expat wrote: Tue Jan 12, 2021 5:12 pm I flipped my keg and used the original opening to mount a 2" TC and some plumbing to make the drain. Should work the same if you weld in a 2" TC or similar. See my sig if you're interested to see what I did. Never bothered with the keg spear, just threw it in a box somewhere.

rps20180818_213616.jpg
I like how you pegged the wheel. very practical.
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Re: My first boiler build

Post by Tom Kat »

20210128_172602.jpg
Some baby steps today.
20210128_162800.jpg
20210128_163013.jpg
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Re: My first boiler build

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I will have my coupler welded to the skirt and then a ball valve will go on it. I have an idea for some angle iron legs bolted onto the skirt to accommodate my drain tube and ss elbow.
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Re: My first boiler build

Post by Durhommer »

Tom Kat wrote: Thu Jan 28, 2021 3:37 pm 20210128_172602.jpgSome baby steps today.20210128_162800.jpg20210128_163013.jpg
Shit that's farther than I've made it with my keg good job so far
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Re: My first boiler build

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I have to find a welder!
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Re: My first boiler build

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When shopping for a welder, make sure they know how to do a sanitary stainless weld. If you get a blank look using the words sanitary and stainless then keep shopping. Seen good stainless butchered by 'welders' who aren't familiar with proper gas shielding techniques.
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Re: My first boiler build

Post by still_stirrin »

Tom Kat wrote: Thu Jan 28, 2021 3:43 pm I will have my coupler welded to the skirt and then a ball valve will go on it.
:thumbup:
Tom Kat wrote: Thu Jan 28, 2021 3:43 pm I have an idea for some angle iron legs bolted onto the skirt to accommodate my drain tube and ss elbow.
Get some caster wheels instead. Legs are OK to raise the boiler off the floor. But casters will give you mobility, especially when it’s full of a wash.

Have your welder weld a stainless nut onto the skirt bead, with a hole big enough to pass the caster bolt through. Then, you just thread the caster bolt into the nut and lock it with a lock nut. 3 casters will give you a means to “level” the boiler on its “feet”. I’d use 3” or 4” casters for good ground clearance and good load carrying capability.
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Re: My first boiler build

Post by v-child »

Expat wrote: Tue Jan 12, 2021 5:12 pm I flipped my keg and used the original opening to mount a 2" TC and some plumbing to make the drain. Should work the same if you weld in a 2" TC or similar. See my sig if you're interested to see what I did. Never bothered with the keg spear, just threw it in a box somewhere.

rps20180818_213616.jpg
That is a superb setup. Well done.
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