My first boiler build

[Tom Kat]

After extensive research on this site and others, I have started my build. A particular challenge for me was figuring out how to install a 220 VAC element on my boiler. I have purchased a 2" cutter and expect to see it this week. I marked my hole and made a slight indent for the arbor to use when it is time to drill. After my hole is complete I will find a local welder to TIG weld my ferrule in place. I have a local shop who does really good work and I am just going to pay them to do it.

This site has been a great resource and I expect to be here for a long time to come. Thanks to everyone and especially Still Stirring

[Expat]

You might want to check the outside diameter of your element ferrule; carbide hole saws I've worked with tend to yield results slightly larger than the stated diameter. Also worth checking, does your welder contact have a plasma cutter? If yes, its probably a LOT less work if you have him plasma the hole for you.

If you do go ahead as planned, its worth expounding, go slow with solid pressure, lots of cutting fluid and don't let it get smoken hot. Work hardened stainless is a bitch!

[zed255]

I used the Greenlee hole punches to make my element holes. Just drill for the draw bolt, place the die set and crank it. Made a very nice clean hole. Of course, I installed a 6" ferrule on top, so access was easier.

[StillerBoy]

I marked my hole and made a slight indent for the arbor to use when it is time to drill.

Best to use a knockout punch used by electrician, if you don't have contact an electrician once the 7/8" hole is done.. makes a clean hole.. hole cutter are far being the best tool to use..

Mars

[Yummyrum]

You might want to chat the outside diameter of your element ferrule; carbide hole saws I've worked with tend to yield results slightly larger than the stated diameter.

Agree . I probably would have gone for a 48mm saw .

[Tom Kat]

More pictures to follow. And I measured the OD of my ferrule. I will go slow and use plenty of fluid. My welder is pretty good so hopefully he can cover up any errors on my part.

[corene1]

You know there really isn't a reason to spend extra dollars for a carbide hole saw. You hang one up and chip the teeth and it is done for. I have used the Lenox brand bi metal hole saws on stainless for years. They are pretty in expensive at the local Lowe's here. Just run them slowly with a lot of cutting fluid.

[StillerBoy]

And I measured the OD of my ferrule. I will go slow and use plenty of fluid. My welder is pretty good so hopefully he can cover up any errors on my part

I often wonder why post advise, when a newbie is bound and determine to still do it his way.. wasting money and creating problems for himself and others..

Makes one wonder why that is so..

Mars

[Tom Kat]

well here is the thing. I am an old country boy who overcomes lots of things on my own.

[Tom Kat]

You know there really isn't a reason to spend extra dollars for a carbide hole saw. You hang one up and chip the teeth and it is done for. I have used the Lenox brand bi metal hole saws on stainless for years. They are pretty in expensive at the local Lowe's here. Just run them slowly with a lot of cutting fluid.

I can afford $11 for a carbide hole saw.

[Tom Kat]

[Tom Kat]

You might want to check the outside diameter of your element ferrule; carbide hole saws I've worked with tend to yield results slightly larger than the stated diameter. Also worth checking, does your welder contact have a plasma cutter? If yes, its probably a LOT less work if you have him plasma the hole for you.

If you do go ahead as planned, its worth expounding, go slow with solid pressure, lots of cutting fluid and don't let it get smoken hot. Work hardened stainless is a bitch!

So as we can see, the true OD of the ferrule is 51.05 mm. If I cut that hole slowly and carefully, isn't it reasonable to assume the hole will also be 51 mm? Is the idea here to slide the ferrule barely into the boiler and TIG weld it? Am I missing something here? I saw where some say that a slight variance is to be expected with the bit I have purchased?

Others have suggested different ways to make this hole. I choose to use a carbide hole saw. I am not afraid of work. My neighbor has a drill press I can use if I want it. My welder is a for profit guy who would likely stick me, price wise, to drill it. I am going to him because he is really good, but also greedy and lazy. He only wants to weld. Plus I live in the sticks and he is my best option. So there we have it, I am drilling my own hole, old school.

This thread is giving me a warm fuzzy feeling.

[Expat]

So as we can see, the true OD of the ferrule is 51.05 mm. If I cut that hole slowly and carefully, isn't it reasonable to assume the hole will also be 51 mm? Is the idea here to slide the ferrule barely into the boiler and TIG weld it? Am I missing something here? I saw where some say that a slight variance is to be expected with the bit I have purchased?

No, hole saws will tend to oscillate somewhat even with a perfect guide hole, so you will end up with a slightly larger than expected hole. So what size should it be? Depends on how your welder feels about it and the technique used. The metal of a keg is very thin so from my own experience, I agreed with the welder to "seat" the body of the ferrule about 1/4" into the hole so he would start his weld bead on the heavier part. Not sure how many difference it really makes, my advise was only to make you aware of what to expect. Also will depend on how much ferrule depth you have to work with; they make different sizes for different applications.

Others have suggested different ways to make this hole. I choose to use a carbide hole saw. I am not afraid of work. My neighbor has a drill press I can use if I want it. My welder is a for profit guy who would likely stick me, price wise, to drill it. I am going to him because he is really good, but also greedy and lazy. He only wants to weld. Plus I live in the sticks and he is my best option. So there we have it, I am drilling my own hole, old school.

Carbide hole saws are the best option imo if you can't get them plasma or laser cut, so you're fine in that regard. Go slow (i.e. use low RPM like 600) and apply as much force as possible without stopping the drill. If the drill press is a floor standing on you might be able to get the keg under it, if so its your best option for an easy cut. Like I said though, do not let the cut get hot, use cutting oil and use wet paper towel if required to cool the parts. If it does work harden you're in for 10x the work and a lot of swearing.

This thread is giving me a warm fuzzy feeling.

Just imagine how that will feel when you're sipping on some of your own finest product

Best of luck

[OtisT]

Wear hearing protection. It will be loud.

[zed255]

As far as fitment goes, I like to make the hole the same size as the ID of the ferrule (or as close as is practical) so I can rest the ferrule on the vessel wall. It is hard to get the ferrule straight if it goes into the hole. It works either way, it is just this guys option on what is easiest and most practical.

[corene1]

You know there really isn't a reason to spend extra dollars for a carbide hole saw. You hang one up and chip the teeth and it is done for. I have used the Lenox brand bi metal hole saws on stainless for years. They are pretty in expensive at the local Lowe's here. Just run them slowly with a lot of cutting fluid.

I can afford $11 for a carbide hole saw.

That is a good deal! I pay more than that for the Lenox bi metal. The 2 inch carbides I looked up on Amazon were averaging about 61 dollars. You might want to go a bit slower than the 600 RPM mentioned. That is 10 revolutions per second pretty darned fast for Stainless. Just a note , I work with stainless steel everyday. Better to start slower and ease into the cut.

[Tom Kat]

I agree. Slow with lots of fluid. Hopefully the bit makes a nice cut.

[Tom Kat]

Thanks to everyone for your help.

[Expat]

You know there really isn't a reason to spend extra dollars for a carbide hole saw. You hang one up and chip the teeth and it is done for. I have used the Lenox brand bi metal hole saws on stainless for years. They are pretty in expensive at the local Lowe's here. Just run them slowly with a lot of cutting fluid.

I can afford $11 for a carbide hole saw.

That is a good deal! I pay more than that for the Lenox bi metal. The 2 inch carbides I looked up on Amazon were averaging about 61 dollars. You might want to go a bit slower than the 600 RPM mentioned. That is 10 revolutions per second pretty darned fast for Stainless. Just a note , I work with stainless steel everyday. Better to start slower and ease into the cut.

Fair point, my drill press lower limit is 600rpm, guess I was thinking about that. Dead slow

[Tom Kat]

After much thought, I cancelled my original order and ordered a 48 MM bimetal saw blade. Thanks for all your input

[Tom Kat]

updated- I ended up getting 1 7/8" Lenox bimetal hole saw. It appears to be a good fit for a 2" ferrule for an element. I reccomend a pilot hole for the center bit to arbor. That's what worked for me.

I went very slow and used wd40 frequently. I used a Dewalt cordless drill. It wasn't terrible hard to cut if you followed instructions. It took me less than 10 minutes.

Thanks to all who posted here.

[Tom Kat]

[Tom Kat]

[Tom Kat]

Time to find a welder

[zed255]

Looks like a good fit that can be welded onto of the keg wall. That will make your welders job a little easeier.

[Expat]

Looks good!

If you ever want to do any other ports *now* is the time. Welding 3 connections won't be 3x time price, setup costs and such.

How are you set for fill/cleaning and drain?

[still_stirrin]

Good call Expat.

Think ahead Tom. If you have 2 ferrules at slightly different height, you could use 2 elements if/when needed.

Also, a drain is a good thing to have too. I think the spear is 1” OD, so that would make a great drain if you drilled a hole through the skirt and routed it to the center of the bottom head. Then weld it in place and cut a hole through the head. Get a 1” ferrule and weld it to the end of the spear tube sticking out of the skirt. Ready for a valve or a blocking plate, whichever.

Welds are less costly when you can have him do them all with one setup (and purge).
ss

[Tom Kat]

Thanks guys and all of that is true. Now that I have over come my fear of drilling into stainless steel (it really wasn't THAT bad) Let me tell you what I am thinking and please step in with your knowledge and experience, I could use your advice.

I invision making corn mash or sugar washes in 2 each 5 gallon primary fermenters because that is what I have on hand, left over from my wine making days. I also have some 5 gallon glass carboys. Any way, I thought once I figured out how to heat and sustain temps for my mash I would syphon off the wash into the boiler and run the still. I have to get a hydrometer and alchometer but I am thinking I can run 10 gallons of wash and store the hearts in a carboy until I collect 5-10 gallons and then run all of it through my still for a spirit run. I should add that I purchased an all copper head with a liebig condenser that will attach to my boiler. All of the still operation will happen in my barn which is wired for 220; my son is a union electrician and he will take care of the controller and some circuit/wiring upgrades. My barn has a gravel floor and is well ventalted, and I will have access to a water hydrant there. I would most likely doing my fermenting in the basement for a more stable temparture.

I had hoped to use the modular design of my system to take the column head off and run a hose through the original opening and clean the still by draining the water out of the element hole.

Am I on track here? I have read a TON of information from the site and other stuff on the internet. I enjoy the research but the confusing part is that distilling is both a science AND an art. I will also add that in general I am a social drinker and cant imagine me drinking 5 gallons of liquor in a year...when I was 25 maybe! But these days I am not as hell bent on destruction and conquering the world as I once was.

On a side note, what basic tools should I get? funnel, syphon hose etc.

I totally agree that now is the time to pay a welder to do the work. What upgrades or additions should I make and why? Thanks in advance for all of your help.

[Tom Kat]

Looks like a good fit that can be welded onto of the keg wall. That will make your welders job a little easeier.

Thank you your advice was important and I listened

[Tom Kat]

Good call Expat.

Think ahead Tom. If you have 2 ferrules at slightly different height, you could use 2 elements if/when needed.

Also, a drain is a good thing to have too. I think the spear is 1” OD, so that would make a great drain if you drilled a hole through the skirt and routed it to the center of the bottom head. Then weld it in place and cut a hole through the head. Get a 1” ferrule and weld it to the end of the spear tube sticking out of the skirt. Ready for a valve or a blocking plate, whichever.

Welds are less costly when you can have him do them all with one setup (and purge).
ss

I can see the good of a drain. I will need to see some pictures to understand how it would work. I am not afraid to drill a hole LOL