My first still: 2" stainless steel from the shop

Many like to post about a first successful ferment (or first all grain mash), or first still built/bought or first good run of the still. Tell us about all of these great times here.
Pics are VERY welcome, we drool over pretty copper 8)

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ravs
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My first still: 2" stainless steel from the shop

Post by ravs »

Hi guys,

I've finally decided to turn the dial on my long time hobby. I wanted to make it myself but thought realistically, which meant a home solution wasn't going to happen for a long time. After a lot of thinking and almost buying the Still Spirits T500, I decided against it. Instead purchased a stainless steel, 2" modular which to my understanding can be used as reflux and pot. I plan to use this with the Digiboiler 35L.

I would love to hear your thoughts or any guidance on using this equipment. There's not much I could find here on this particular design or type of still. Picture attached.

I'm now sourcing a fermenting bucket, hydrometer etc... And hoping to prepare my first wash this week for a sacrificial run.

Thanks
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still_stirrin
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Re: My first still: 2" stainless steel from the shop

Post by still_stirrin »

How much does the parrot cost?

I’d refuse to pay for that.

Also, does it come with copper packing? I would never choose an all stainless stillhead without some (OK, a lot!) of copper somewhere in the product’s path. Sure…. copper = $$$. But it is a good (wise) investment.

Otherwise….it’s a nice “shiny” reflux column & stillhead. I prefer VM/LM over CM everytime, tho. Just me.

YMMV.
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Yummyrum
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Re: My first still: 2" stainless steel from the shop

Post by Yummyrum »

Please check this topic out .

It’s about bypassing the nternal Temperature controller so you can use an external Power controller on your Brewzilla, Digiboil etc .

https://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtop ... dcabb35967
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Re: My first still: 2" stainless steel from the shop

Post by kimbodious »

hey Ravs,
I went the same path by buying stainless steel components.
You can introduce copper in the vapour column as I do by having a couple of copper potscrubbers as the first part of the packing, all good.

Your still as configured in the photo is a CM reflux column. You will definitely need fine scale control of heating power to the boiler. You will also benefit from separating the water plumbing to each of the condensers and putting fine scale control on the coolant for the reflux condenser.
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Re: My first still: 2" stainless steel from the shop

Post by tiramisu »

simple and practical. a little copper in the vapor path.
something for the reflux for vodka and pot still for whisky.
I don't know why guys are so anti-parrot. you drain the bottom and take your normal cuts in jars. no more smearing than any other small jar.
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Re: My first still: 2" stainless steel from the shop

Post by howie »

very similar to my original still.
extras needed are probably...
another 500mm column for better reflux
adding copper mesh and SS scrubbers (i think it comes with some copper mesh?)
insulation on the columns (clark rubber if you're in Oz)
voltage controller (best thing you will ever buy)
not sure about the 150mm "play as gin basket" section, maybe too small, but there are other methods.
RC is not very long, probably be ok for a 2", how many pipes has it got?
EPDM triclover gaskets
i can get good quality 96%abv out of mine.
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Yummyrum
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Re: My first still: 2" stainless steel from the shop

Post by Yummyrum »

howie wrote: Fri Oct 22, 2021 11:33 pm voltage controller (best thing you will ever buy)
That does the same job as the Power controller I was talking about . If you use the Digiboil controller , it won’t work for a still ( despite what the manufacturers or twats on You-tube tell you ) . Great for mashing though :thumbup:
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Re: My first still: 2" stainless steel from the shop

Post by howie »

Yummyrum wrote: Sat Oct 23, 2021 12:28 am
howie wrote: Fri Oct 22, 2021 11:33 pm voltage controller (best thing you will ever buy)
That does the same job as the Power controller I was talking about . If you use the Digiboil controller , it won’t work for a still ( despite what the manufacturers or twats on You-tube tell you ) . Great for mashing though :thumbup:
my latest 15amp 3 position switch on the brewzilla is......
1-both 1900w & 500w elements are connected directly to the brewzilla smarts
2-only the 500w element is connected, 1900w disconnected.
3-the 500w is connected to the brewzilla smarts, the 1900w is connected to the power controller.
works well for beer & distilling
ravs
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Re: My first still: 2" stainless steel from the shop

Post by ravs »

Hi guys,

Thanks for your responses above, much appreciated. The setup has finally arrived.

In terms of copper inside, it came with 4 rolls of copper mesh, tight fit in the middle of the column and I'm purchasing some copper scrubbers as well. The parrot was part of the package, most of it looks pretty good but the parrot for some reason looks not the best quality inside.

The DigiBoil 35L has some built in temperature control but I've heard it's not the best. I note some comments above regarding a power controller including Yummyrum, however on their website Gen2 2400W Power controller claims:
We should also point out that if you do use this on a BrewZilla or Digiboil, that you will only be able to reduce 10-30% worth of power before the display turns off. Once the display turns off, so does the elements.

howie, thanks mate. Guess it gives me an okay start to the craft as I'm completely new to it. I will take that on your suggestions. Some questions for the very near future:
- Do I need stainless steel scrubbers as well as copper?
- EPDM triclover gaskets - I thought silicone ones were preferred? I was looking to grab few for backup from Kegland
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Re: My first still: 2" stainless steel from the shop

Post by howie »

ravs
the on board temp control is great for dialing in a specific temp for mashing, boiling, pitching, sparging etc.
but distilling, especially reflux, requires very subtle changes to get the correct L/hour output.
a few people, including myself, have done fairly simple re-wiring of their 1900w element to use a power controller.
https://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtop ... =brewzilla

packing is a personal choice, i bought 500gm of copper mesh roll which is 9m long x 100mmwide.
this makes 4 x rolls (4 x 2.25m) that fills 400mm of my 1.1m column.
the rest of the column (700cm) is filled with about 14 x SS scrubbers (Mr Clean Tuffmates 10-pack)

EPDM is superior to silicone in most rubber chemical resistance charts i've seen, regarding ethanol, acetone & methanol.
it's slightly more expensive and a lot stiffer, but i don't have any problem with sealing.
"foodgrade" is not always good enough for high ABV liquids, i'm always wary of that label.
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Re: My first still: 2" stainless steel from the shop

Post by NormandieStill »

EPDM is not considered by the forum to be an approved material for stills. The last time I found a data sheet on synthetic resistance to alcohol PTFE (Teflon) was the only material that could handle high-temperature, high-proof alcohol vapour.
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Re: My first still: 2" stainless steel from the shop

Post by howie »

your correct normandie, i must have had an abbreviation blackout :)
PTFE gaskets are the ones i got.............
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001 ... 4c4dOHHVH9
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Re: My first still: 2" stainless steel from the shop

Post by Hebden »

NormandieStill wrote: Mon Nov 01, 2021 1:09 am EPDM is not considered by the forum to be an approved material for stills. The last time I found a data sheet on synthetic resistance to alcohol PTFE (Teflon) was the only material that could handle high-temperature, high-proof alcohol vapour.
Normandi, where I am looking to buy garkets from, they have options of:-
Viton
PTFE/Viton Envolope
Solid PTFE

Which is best to use?
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Salt Must Flow
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Re: My first still: 2" stainless steel from the shop

Post by Salt Must Flow »

For Tri-Clamp gaskets, solid PTFE gaskets are great. The Envelope gaskets typically have a softer core and harder PTFE on the exterior. Envelope gaskets are great for heat warped Tri-Clamp connections because they can flex and make a seal where solid PTFE gaskets cannot.
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Re: My first still: 2" stainless steel from the shop

Post by NormandieStill »

Envelope gaskets seem quite interesting, but I've not had any problem sealing any of my tri-clamp fittings with hard PTFE. If a clamp has been warped due to welding heat, you can probably "straighten it out" with a piece of sandpaper on a flat surface (4 - 6mm glass is a good option). If it's so badly warped that you can't rectify the surface without destroying the clamp, then you need to ask your welder for your money back because there's no reason to have warped the ferrule that badly.
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Re: My first still: 2" stainless steel from the shop

Post by Hebden »

Thanks both, very much appreciated:)
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Re: My first still: 2" stainless steel from the shop

Post by Salt Must Flow »

NormandieStill wrote: Tue Mar 15, 2022 11:02 pm Envelope gaskets seem quite interesting, but I've not had any problem sealing any of my tri-clamp fittings with hard PTFE. If a clamp has been warped due to welding heat, you can probably "straighten it out" with a piece of sandpaper on a flat surface (4 - 6mm glass is a good option). If it's so badly warped that you can't rectify the surface without destroying the clamp, then you need to ask your welder for your money back because there's no reason to have warped the ferrule that badly.


It happens more often than you would imagine. I thought about doing as you've stated, but simply using a gasket that offers more compression is often a simpler solution. Gaskets are relatively inexpensive and doesn't require any modification.
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Re: My first still: 2" stainless steel from the shop

Post by rubberduck71 »

ravs wrote: Fri Oct 22, 2021 7:32 pm Instead purchased a stainless steel, 2" modular which to my understanding can be used as reflux and pot. I plan to use this with the Digiboiler 35L.

I would love to hear your thoughts or any guidance on using this equipment. There's not much I could find here on this particular design or type of still. Picture attached.
I also have the 35L Digiboil, and the lid that comes in the conversion kit for distilling may flex or even buckle under the torque of that high & heavy a rig.
You may want to invest in the copper alembic dome, which may be stronger & solves some of your copper-in-the-pathway issue. Even then you may want to rig some support via heat-protection wrapped bungee cords, etc...

I also bought a power controller (Brewhaus) which you CAN use for spirit runs. I generally find my rig likes 70-80 volts on just the 1000w element, which is 63%-72% of the 110 volt circuit. I don't see any reason to test that 10-30% lower envelope that would risk shutting off the circuit board or heating element.

For stripping runs, just plug directly into outlet. No need for a controller there.

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