My first still: 2" stainless steel from the shop
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My first still: 2" stainless steel from the shop
Hi guys,
I've finally decided to turn the dial on my long time hobby. I wanted to make it myself but thought realistically, which meant a home solution wasn't going to happen for a long time. After a lot of thinking and almost buying the Still Spirits T500, I decided against it. Instead purchased a stainless steel, 2" modular which to my understanding can be used as reflux and pot. I plan to use this with the Digiboiler 35L.
I would love to hear your thoughts or any guidance on using this equipment. There's not much I could find here on this particular design or type of still. Picture attached.
I'm now sourcing a fermenting bucket, hydrometer etc... And hoping to prepare my first wash this week for a sacrificial run.
Thanks
I've finally decided to turn the dial on my long time hobby. I wanted to make it myself but thought realistically, which meant a home solution wasn't going to happen for a long time. After a lot of thinking and almost buying the Still Spirits T500, I decided against it. Instead purchased a stainless steel, 2" modular which to my understanding can be used as reflux and pot. I plan to use this with the Digiboiler 35L.
I would love to hear your thoughts or any guidance on using this equipment. There's not much I could find here on this particular design or type of still. Picture attached.
I'm now sourcing a fermenting bucket, hydrometer etc... And hoping to prepare my first wash this week for a sacrificial run.
Thanks
- still_stirrin
- Master of Distillation
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Re: My first still: 2" stainless steel from the shop
How much does the parrot cost?
I’d refuse to pay for that.
Also, does it come with copper packing? I would never choose an all stainless stillhead without some (OK, a lot!) of copper somewhere in the product’s path. Sure…. copper = $$$. But it is a good (wise) investment.
Otherwise….it’s a nice “shiny” reflux column & stillhead. I prefer VM/LM over CM everytime, tho. Just me.
YMMV.
ss
I’d refuse to pay for that.
Also, does it come with copper packing? I would never choose an all stainless stillhead without some (OK, a lot!) of copper somewhere in the product’s path. Sure…. copper = $$$. But it is a good (wise) investment.
Otherwise….it’s a nice “shiny” reflux column & stillhead. I prefer VM/LM over CM everytime, tho. Just me.
YMMV.
ss
My LM/VM & Potstill: My build thread
My Cadco hotplate modification thread: Hotplate Build
My stock pot gin still: stock pot potstill
My 5-grain Bourbon recipe: Special K
My Cadco hotplate modification thread: Hotplate Build
My stock pot gin still: stock pot potstill
My 5-grain Bourbon recipe: Special K
- Yummyrum
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Re: My first still: 2" stainless steel from the shop
Please check this topic out .
It’s about bypassing the nternal Temperature controller so you can use an external Power controller on your Brewzilla, Digiboil etc .
https://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtop ... dcabb35967
It’s about bypassing the nternal Temperature controller so you can use an external Power controller on your Brewzilla, Digiboil etc .
https://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtop ... dcabb35967
My recommended goto .
https://homedistiller.org/wiki/index.ph ... ion_Theory
https://homedistiller.org/wiki/index.ph ... ion_Theory
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Re: My first still: 2" stainless steel from the shop
hey Ravs,
I went the same path by buying stainless steel components.
You can introduce copper in the vapour column as I do by having a couple of copper potscrubbers as the first part of the packing, all good.
Your still as configured in the photo is a CM reflux column. You will definitely need fine scale control of heating power to the boiler. You will also benefit from separating the water plumbing to each of the condensers and putting fine scale control on the coolant for the reflux condenser.
I went the same path by buying stainless steel components.
You can introduce copper in the vapour column as I do by having a couple of copper potscrubbers as the first part of the packing, all good.
Your still as configured in the photo is a CM reflux column. You will definitely need fine scale control of heating power to the boiler. You will also benefit from separating the water plumbing to each of the condensers and putting fine scale control on the coolant for the reflux condenser.
--
50L Beer keg boiler, 2200W element
Modular 2" Pot Still
opinions are free and everybody has them, experience costs you time
50L Beer keg boiler, 2200W element
Modular 2" Pot Still
opinions are free and everybody has them, experience costs you time
Re: My first still: 2" stainless steel from the shop
simple and practical. a little copper in the vapor path.
something for the reflux for vodka and pot still for whisky.
I don't know why guys are so anti-parrot. you drain the bottom and take your normal cuts in jars. no more smearing than any other small jar.
something for the reflux for vodka and pot still for whisky.
I don't know why guys are so anti-parrot. you drain the bottom and take your normal cuts in jars. no more smearing than any other small jar.
Re: My first still: 2" stainless steel from the shop
very similar to my original still.
extras needed are probably...
another 500mm column for better reflux
adding copper mesh and SS scrubbers (i think it comes with some copper mesh?)
insulation on the columns (clark rubber if you're in Oz)
voltage controller (best thing you will ever buy)
not sure about the 150mm "play as gin basket" section, maybe too small, but there are other methods.
RC is not very long, probably be ok for a 2", how many pipes has it got?
EPDM triclover gaskets
i can get good quality 96%abv out of mine.
extras needed are probably...
another 500mm column for better reflux
adding copper mesh and SS scrubbers (i think it comes with some copper mesh?)
insulation on the columns (clark rubber if you're in Oz)
voltage controller (best thing you will ever buy)
not sure about the 150mm "play as gin basket" section, maybe too small, but there are other methods.
RC is not very long, probably be ok for a 2", how many pipes has it got?
EPDM triclover gaskets
i can get good quality 96%abv out of mine.
- Yummyrum
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Re: My first still: 2" stainless steel from the shop
That does the same job as the Power controller I was talking about . If you use the Digiboil controller , it won’t work for a still ( despite what the manufacturers or twats on You-tube tell you ) . Great for mashing though
My recommended goto .
https://homedistiller.org/wiki/index.ph ... ion_Theory
https://homedistiller.org/wiki/index.ph ... ion_Theory
Re: My first still: 2" stainless steel from the shop
my latest 15amp 3 position switch on the brewzilla is......
1-both 1900w & 500w elements are connected directly to the brewzilla smarts
2-only the 500w element is connected, 1900w disconnected.
3-the 500w is connected to the brewzilla smarts, the 1900w is connected to the power controller.
works well for beer & distilling
Re: My first still: 2" stainless steel from the shop
Hi guys,
Thanks for your responses above, much appreciated. The setup has finally arrived.
In terms of copper inside, it came with 4 rolls of copper mesh, tight fit in the middle of the column and I'm purchasing some copper scrubbers as well. The parrot was part of the package, most of it looks pretty good but the parrot for some reason looks not the best quality inside.
The DigiBoil 35L has some built in temperature control but I've heard it's not the best. I note some comments above regarding a power controller including Yummyrum, however on their website Gen2 2400W Power controller claims:
We should also point out that if you do use this on a BrewZilla or Digiboil, that you will only be able to reduce 10-30% worth of power before the display turns off. Once the display turns off, so does the elements.
howie, thanks mate. Guess it gives me an okay start to the craft as I'm completely new to it. I will take that on your suggestions. Some questions for the very near future:
- Do I need stainless steel scrubbers as well as copper?
- EPDM triclover gaskets - I thought silicone ones were preferred? I was looking to grab few for backup from Kegland
Thanks for your responses above, much appreciated. The setup has finally arrived.
In terms of copper inside, it came with 4 rolls of copper mesh, tight fit in the middle of the column and I'm purchasing some copper scrubbers as well. The parrot was part of the package, most of it looks pretty good but the parrot for some reason looks not the best quality inside.
The DigiBoil 35L has some built in temperature control but I've heard it's not the best. I note some comments above regarding a power controller including Yummyrum, however on their website Gen2 2400W Power controller claims:
We should also point out that if you do use this on a BrewZilla or Digiboil, that you will only be able to reduce 10-30% worth of power before the display turns off. Once the display turns off, so does the elements.
howie, thanks mate. Guess it gives me an okay start to the craft as I'm completely new to it. I will take that on your suggestions. Some questions for the very near future:
- Do I need stainless steel scrubbers as well as copper?
- EPDM triclover gaskets - I thought silicone ones were preferred? I was looking to grab few for backup from Kegland
Re: My first still: 2" stainless steel from the shop
ravs
the on board temp control is great for dialing in a specific temp for mashing, boiling, pitching, sparging etc.
but distilling, especially reflux, requires very subtle changes to get the correct L/hour output.
a few people, including myself, have done fairly simple re-wiring of their 1900w element to use a power controller.
https://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtop ... =brewzilla
packing is a personal choice, i bought 500gm of copper mesh roll which is 9m long x 100mmwide.
this makes 4 x rolls (4 x 2.25m) that fills 400mm of my 1.1m column.
the rest of the column (700cm) is filled with about 14 x SS scrubbers (Mr Clean Tuffmates 10-pack)
EPDM is superior to silicone in most rubber chemical resistance charts i've seen, regarding ethanol, acetone & methanol.
it's slightly more expensive and a lot stiffer, but i don't have any problem with sealing.
"foodgrade" is not always good enough for high ABV liquids, i'm always wary of that label.
the on board temp control is great for dialing in a specific temp for mashing, boiling, pitching, sparging etc.
but distilling, especially reflux, requires very subtle changes to get the correct L/hour output.
a few people, including myself, have done fairly simple re-wiring of their 1900w element to use a power controller.
https://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtop ... =brewzilla
packing is a personal choice, i bought 500gm of copper mesh roll which is 9m long x 100mmwide.
this makes 4 x rolls (4 x 2.25m) that fills 400mm of my 1.1m column.
the rest of the column (700cm) is filled with about 14 x SS scrubbers (Mr Clean Tuffmates 10-pack)
EPDM is superior to silicone in most rubber chemical resistance charts i've seen, regarding ethanol, acetone & methanol.
it's slightly more expensive and a lot stiffer, but i don't have any problem with sealing.
"foodgrade" is not always good enough for high ABV liquids, i'm always wary of that label.
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Re: My first still: 2" stainless steel from the shop
EPDM is not considered by the forum to be an approved material for stills. The last time I found a data sheet on synthetic resistance to alcohol PTFE (Teflon) was the only material that could handle high-temperature, high-proof alcohol vapour.
"I have a potstill that smears like a fresh plowed coon on the highway" - Jimbo
A little spoon feeding *For New & Novice Distillers
A little spoon feeding *For New & Novice Distillers
Re: My first still: 2" stainless steel from the shop
your correct normandie, i must have had an abbreviation blackout
PTFE gaskets are the ones i got.............
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001 ... 4c4dOHHVH9
PTFE gaskets are the ones i got.............
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001 ... 4c4dOHHVH9
Re: My first still: 2" stainless steel from the shop
Normandi, where I am looking to buy garkets from, they have options of:-NormandieStill wrote: ↑Mon Nov 01, 2021 1:09 am EPDM is not considered by the forum to be an approved material for stills. The last time I found a data sheet on synthetic resistance to alcohol PTFE (Teflon) was the only material that could handle high-temperature, high-proof alcohol vapour.
Viton
PTFE/Viton Envolope
Solid PTFE
Which is best to use?
- Salt Must Flow
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Re: My first still: 2" stainless steel from the shop
For Tri-Clamp gaskets, solid PTFE gaskets are great. The Envelope gaskets typically have a softer core and harder PTFE on the exterior. Envelope gaskets are great for heat warped Tri-Clamp connections because they can flex and make a seal where solid PTFE gaskets cannot.
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Re: My first still: 2" stainless steel from the shop
Envelope gaskets seem quite interesting, but I've not had any problem sealing any of my tri-clamp fittings with hard PTFE. If a clamp has been warped due to welding heat, you can probably "straighten it out" with a piece of sandpaper on a flat surface (4 - 6mm glass is a good option). If it's so badly warped that you can't rectify the surface without destroying the clamp, then you need to ask your welder for your money back because there's no reason to have warped the ferrule that badly.
"I have a potstill that smears like a fresh plowed coon on the highway" - Jimbo
A little spoon feeding *For New & Novice Distillers
A little spoon feeding *For New & Novice Distillers
Re: My first still: 2" stainless steel from the shop
Thanks both, very much appreciated:)
- Salt Must Flow
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Re: My first still: 2" stainless steel from the shop
NormandieStill wrote: ↑Tue Mar 15, 2022 11:02 pm Envelope gaskets seem quite interesting, but I've not had any problem sealing any of my tri-clamp fittings with hard PTFE. If a clamp has been warped due to welding heat, you can probably "straighten it out" with a piece of sandpaper on a flat surface (4 - 6mm glass is a good option). If it's so badly warped that you can't rectify the surface without destroying the clamp, then you need to ask your welder for your money back because there's no reason to have warped the ferrule that badly.
It happens more often than you would imagine. I thought about doing as you've stated, but simply using a gasket that offers more compression is often a simpler solution. Gaskets are relatively inexpensive and doesn't require any modification.
- rubberduck71
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Re: My first still: 2" stainless steel from the shop
I also have the 35L Digiboil, and the lid that comes in the conversion kit for distilling may flex or even buckle under the torque of that high & heavy a rig.ravs wrote: ↑Fri Oct 22, 2021 7:32 pm Instead purchased a stainless steel, 2" modular which to my understanding can be used as reflux and pot. I plan to use this with the Digiboiler 35L.
I would love to hear your thoughts or any guidance on using this equipment. There's not much I could find here on this particular design or type of still. Picture attached.
You may want to invest in the copper alembic dome, which may be stronger & solves some of your copper-in-the-pathway issue. Even then you may want to rig some support via heat-protection wrapped bungee cords, etc...
I also bought a power controller (Brewhaus) which you CAN use for spirit runs. I generally find my rig likes 70-80 volts on just the 1000w element, which is 63%-72% of the 110 volt circuit. I don't see any reason to test that 10-30% lower envelope that would risk shutting off the circuit board or heating element.
For stripping runs, just plug directly into outlet. No need for a controller there.
Duck
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