I would'nt know,....that's exactly why I'm asking,.....but tell me, is'nt the whole idea of this forum to have a place where likeminded can help each other, instead of having to go to the four corners of the world
@ Dnderhead
Thanks, short and to the point
Never argue with an idiot, they will always drag you down to their level and when you are down there, they will beat you with experience
This topic of stainless still baffles me, are there any flaws in using it?
I like the look of a stainless still, and I know a lot of commercial distilleries use SS (of course a lot use copper too).
Everybody seems to build their own from copper, i guess because it's cheaper and easier to work with, no welding and such.
Assuming you wanted to do a bit of a everything with it, wouldn't the copper scrubber packing do what is required/needed by the use of copper heading towards your neutrals (maybe with a couple of runs), and detuned for a pseudo-pot like result? Is there actually a practical downfall with the stainless in terms of the final product?
In the U.S. right now stainless is cheaper than copper. I am getting used stainless 4" dairy tube for $15.00 a foot on ebay. 2" I believe was going for around $6.00. I am going to rely on copper packing to clean up the nasties from the wash, not a pot still in the purest sense I know but the results should be favorable. I built and ran a 4' long 2" version (copper packed) for my uncles winery and it ran like a champ with great results.
Stainless is fine, if you have a look at Eastern Block countries, poland etc you will see the vast majority use stainless - all stainless even the condensors. Advantages and disadvantages to both, Stainless is a lot "tougher" you will have a hard time damaging it if it's dropped etc where as copper would bend \ warp. On the other hand stainless is a pain to work with compared to copper, Copper removes sulphides (with stainless you can put some copper mesh in the vapour path and you get the same result)
A lot of it comes down to personal preference I recon.
TMA wrote:Johnhopper - Yeah it's a one off,...so I think I will pay my way out of this one,......by the way,..would love to see more pics
Here you go, lap joint copper to stainless, lap joint copper to copper and butt weld copper to copper (you can see the "lumps" where it was first tacked together and hasn't been blended in) I could do a hot run over it but I'll file it back and polish it up once it's finished.
I know I dont have a tri-gas, but I'm not sure what my gas combo is (i can check tomorrow).
Somebody mentioned the heat was the benefit in the tri-gas, is it not possible to just run the heat up on the welder, and the wire speed slower, and just make a slower-go at it?
Very interested, planning on doing a stainless setup soon.
I know I dont have a tri-gas, but I'm not sure what my gas combo is (i can check tomorrow).
Somebody mentioned the heat was the benefit in the tri-gas, is it not possible to just run the heat up on the welder, and the wire speed slower, and just make a slower-go at it?
Very interested, planning on doing a stainless setup soon.
The helium gas mix is hotter at the point of arc so you will get a better flowing puddle. Stainless likes heat.
You can MIG weld stainless with argon but not as well. Pushing your heat ratio /wire speed will not always work depending on the thickness of what you are welding. I push the heat even when welding mild steel with just enough wire to keep a bead going. I still dont always get the weld quality I want until the piece heats up. (or I preheat it)
That is the standard mild steel mix. Throw some stainless wire on the machine and give it a go on some scrap first. Figure out if that will work for you. Helium is about twice as expensive so if you can get your welds done with regular welding gas good for you. If you have problems try pre heating your work first. The wire size changes the equation. too. With smaller wire you might not be able to get enough heat going at your arc for a smooth weld. If you are .035 or greater you should be fine.
MR
