Sankey, Tri-clamp, Tri-clover, question
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Sankey, Tri-clamp, Tri-clover, question
I get that a tri-clamp fitting will attach my Sankey keg to a 2" column.
Is the tri-clamp a brewing specific product? Looks like it would be of use in a ton of places. I tried the local stores today while looking for other parts and the sales people were clueless. Then again I don't think I've ever bought something at Home Despot for it's intended purpose.
So are there industries/companies in town that might have one? And am I correct in thinking that all I need is the 2" clamp?
Thanks to any replies. Also to wineo (gave me the word I was looking for).
Skymeat
Is the tri-clamp a brewing specific product? Looks like it would be of use in a ton of places. I tried the local stores today while looking for other parts and the sales people were clueless. Then again I don't think I've ever bought something at Home Despot for it's intended purpose.
So are there industries/companies in town that might have one? And am I correct in thinking that all I need is the 2" clamp?
Thanks to any replies. Also to wineo (gave me the word I was looking for).
Skymeat
I may be surrounded by insanity but I am not insane!
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yeh
They are really common. Go search on "food grade" equipment and you will see. They are called Tri-Clamp in the industry. I know there are places around Portland which carry full lines of the accessories.
If only the best birds sang, the woods would be silent.
I think they are heavily used in the raw milk production (i.e. dairy farm). I think that distilling sources picked up on this, and found that the tri-clamp fit the top of a sankey keg well enough (not perfect, but it works), to make a decent seal.
I cut the top of my keg when I made my offset. However, when I make my next one (inline, and a separate pot head), I will certainly leave the valve stem there, and get a clamp to fit it. The only thing to be concerned of after that, is to be dam sure NOT to scorch a mash in that keg. With only that little 2" hole, it will be hard to clean up a burn.
H.
I cut the top of my keg when I made my offset. However, when I make my next one (inline, and a separate pot head), I will certainly leave the valve stem there, and get a clamp to fit it. The only thing to be concerned of after that, is to be dam sure NOT to scorch a mash in that keg. With only that little 2" hole, it will be hard to clean up a burn.
H.
I use the tri-clamp on a bud 1/2 keg.It fit good with no leaks.I did hammer it In a little with a block of wood.I also have a 1/4 heiniken keg with a threaded neck,and the threaded tri-clamp fits it good.I ordered mine from brewhaus.Do a search for dairy equipment and you will find all kinds of stuff.
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- Master of Distillation
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Husker, you help so many people on here that i'd like to do the same for you. In pipework here in Aus, and i assume, the rest of the world, we use a great fitting called the 'Copamate Flange'. This allows you to braze up a copper flange from 2" through to 8" and still be able to rotate the flange to any position, or remove it entirely.Husker wrote:I think they are heavily used in the raw milk production (i.e. dairy farm). I think that distilling sources picked up on this, and found that the tri-clamp fit the top of a sankey keg well enough (not perfect, but it works), to make a decent seal.
I cut the top of my keg when I made my offset. However, when I make my next one (inline, and a separate pot head), I will certainly leave the valve stem there, and get a clamp to fit it. The only thing to be concerned of after that, is to be dam sure NOT to scorch a mash in that keg. With only that little 2" hole, it will be hard to clean up a burn.
H.
If you have access to a machine shop who'll do the work for you, just get a 4" hole plasma cut in the top of your keg, and ask em to weld 4 s/s bolts to the top of your keg. My bloke'll do this for a bottle of UJSM if i supply the 5 bucks worth of bolts and the flange.
As i said, you can have any size for cleaning, and it just screws on, no bowls or clamps, no forcing drain fittings, and the flange could even be left as a slip coupling and teflon taped if you wanted to get at your packing. Just make a gasket from cork or teflon instead of the insertion rubber one that comes with it, and it's maintenance free.
http://www.copamate.com/images/stories/c_-_copamate.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
http://www.copamate.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
No idea on cost though.
So much less trouble than the bowl idea....
I'll take a couplea piccies of my flange in the next couplea days...
(that doesn't sound like something i'd normally say)
edit; if postage was cheaper, i'd send ya one...
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- Master of Distillation
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Just poke around the industrial area and find a small, one or two man engineering shop that does a lot of stainless work.Husker wrote:wow, that looks a heck of a lot better than my copper upside down bowl. I gotta find me one o them machine shop guys that works for UJSM, hehe.
H.
There's a couple i can choose from here in my town, that love a little cash job. They all speak fluent carton, and i spose bottle as well.
Owning a boat and having various other hobbys like smoking meat ect, means i'm often looking for a little stainless or aluminium job to be done.
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- Swill Maker
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Husker, I hear you are now a new moderater? Anyway, you may want to post this somewhere on Tony's site or the files. And a link to US source if you find one.
Thanks Punkin, and you are so right about Husker's willingness to help so many. I join you in the applause.
Thanks Punkin, and you are so right about Husker's willingness to help so many. I join you in the applause.
> "You are what you repeatedly do. Excellence is not an event - it is a
>habit" Aristotle
>habit" Aristotle
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searches
http://www.ahphose.com/index.htm
That's where I buy my beer hose. They have a large variety of tri-clamp and related products.
That's where I buy my beer hose. They have a large variety of tri-clamp and related products.
If only the best birds sang, the woods would be silent.
punkin wrote: I'll take a couplea piccies of my flange in the next couplea days...
(that doesn't sound like something i'd normally say)
I don't know how I missed that line in previous reads......very amusing
It is most absurdly said, in popular language, of any man, that he is disguised in liquor; for, on the contrary, most men are disguised by sobriety. ~Thomas de Quincy, Confessions of an English Opium-Eater, 1856
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- Swill Maker
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This site wants me to login, any idea what userid/password I can use?punkin wrote:Husker wrote:
http://www.copamate.com/images/stories/c_-_copamate.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
http://www.copamate.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
Does that sound right to everyone? The Tri fitting from Brewhaus has a flange and threads on the outside of the fitting. So the copper part has to have threads on the inside. I always assumed that the male part went inside the female one.Luddite wrote:If you are going from 2" copper to threads it is called a 2"Male adapter or MIP in pipe fitters jargon.
Skymeat
I may be surrounded by insanity but I am not insane!
tri-clever clamps
Hey guys give Grainger a call or go on line. We have one near my work and can have the parts next day if not in stock! That's where I got mine.
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- Master of Distillation
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Just go down to your local plumbing suppliy place, Reece or Plumbers Gear etc.alice wrote:punkin wrote:This site wants me to login, any idea what userid/password I can use?Husker wrote:
http://www.copamate.com/images/stories/c_-_copamate.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
http://www.copamate.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
Talk to em in person about prices etc. They'll have em in stock and you can pick it up and look at it