when to polish
Moderator: Site Moderator
Yep, brass and copper can be soldered to SS with soft solder. Like you say, KH, the old zinc chloride is the magic stuff. I used a propane torch with a low flame. I have tried a large elec soldering iron but it just didn't have enough heat. But the gas fired one sounds good. As you say, it avoids discolouration and it also avoids the oxidation that too much heat can produce.
Cheers,
Lindsay.
Lindsay.
well guys i bought some SS lil pots , perfect size and fairly cheap too, i was all excited right up till i tried to silver solder the damn cooper to the SS!! what a mess i made !! i will try some lead free solder next time i get brave enough to soak 5 gallons in carbon !!lol after busting my A@@ to clean this last batch it might take awhile for me to ever soak it on carbon again !! lol
thanks for all the advice & Ideas ... i am sure i work on it again before the new year , if for no other reason to show the SS & Copper whos BOSSS!!!! lol
Merry Christmas everybody !!
Allen
thanks for all the advice & Ideas ... i am sure i work on it again before the new year , if for no other reason to show the SS & Copper whos BOSSS!!!! lol
Merry Christmas everybody !!
Allen
-
- Distiller
- Posts: 1159
- Joined: Thu Sep 08, 2005 9:33 am
- Location: small copper potstill with limestone water
get the stank out
I suggest you try another yeast, it is easier to not have the stink before you distill and filter than to remove it.
Try to use something like white labs high grav ale yeast.
I had some bad experiences with red star champagne yeasts producing stink that was hard to remove (multiple redistillation and carbon soak/filter). I have never used turbo but if it makes nasty odor or taste then the principle is the same.
Good luck allen42...I assume you are using a reflux.
Try to use something like white labs high grav ale yeast.
I had some bad experiences with red star champagne yeasts producing stink that was hard to remove (multiple redistillation and carbon soak/filter). I have never used turbo but if it makes nasty odor or taste then the principle is the same.
Good luck allen42...I assume you are using a reflux.
Hey guys!!! Watch this.... OUCH!
-
- Rumrunner
- Posts: 641
- Joined: Fri Oct 22, 2004 2:52 pm
- Location: Canada
You said you are using silver solder, is it a hard solder in a solid stick? If so what kind of torch are you using to heat? I think Uncle Remus already mentioned that you will need to get the metal red hot to use this type of solder and for that you will need a turbo torch, not just a regular blow torch. You can get a soft solder that has silver in it and for this you will not need to heat the metal as hot. The key to soldering is really the flux you use. If you use the wrong flux the solder will not flow, if at all. When you use the right flux it will work like a dream.allen42 wrote:well guys i bought some SS lil pots , perfect size and fairly cheap too, i was all excited right up till i tried to silver solder the damn cooper to the SS!! what a mess i made !! i will try some lead free solder next time i get brave enough to soak 5 gallons in carbon !!lol after busting my A@@ to clean this last batch it might take awhile for me to ever soak it on carbon again !! lol
thanks for all the advice & Ideas ... i am sure i work on it again before the new year , if for no other reason to show the SS & Copper whos BOSSS!!!! lol
Merry Christmas everybody !!
Allen
... I say God bless you, I don't say bless you ... I am not the Lord, I can't do that ...
Dane Cook
Dane Cook
-
- Rumrunner
- Posts: 641
- Joined: Fri Oct 22, 2004 2:52 pm
- Location: Canada
Re: get the stank out
I use turbo's all the time to make neutral and I've never had a problem out of the ordinary. I have also tried Lavlin EC-1118 on sugar and they both ended up the same. If you are going for neutral I don't think the issue comes from the wash, it's a "separation" matter form the still. I let my column run under total reflux for a whole hour before removing anything to let it reach an equilibrium. Then one drop per second I remove forshots. Then I collect at about 10 - 12 ml per minute from here on in. I collect at a much higher abv then 90 which allen42 does. I believe that if you don't let your column establish the separations before you start to draw off that is when you get the off tastes. If you do let your column run under full reflux for the right amount of time and then start drawing off to quickly you'll loose your separation. I've never collected any product intended for neutral at 90 % but I imagine what it would taste or smell like. Not bad at all, but not neutral either. Carbon will fix it up no problem, the only problem is getting the damn dust out out of the product .possum wrote:I suggest you try another yeast, it is easier to not have the stink before you distill and filter than to remove it.
... I say God bless you, I don't say bless you ... I am not the Lord, I can't do that ...
Dane Cook
Dane Cook
Re: get the stank out
yup possum i use a reflux , it *really* wasnt bad at all, it came off at 94% without any moonshine smeel at all BUT i wanted to make it taste the very best i could So i soaked it on carbonpossum wrote:I suggest you try another yeast, it is easier to not have the stink before you distill and filter than to remove it.
Try to use something like white labs high grav ale yeast.
I had some bad experiences with red star champagne yeasts producing stink that was hard to remove (multiple redistillation and carbon soak/filter). I have never used turbo but if it makes nasty odor or taste then the principle is the same.
Good luck allen42...I assume you are using a reflux.
the tourch i use is a turbo with mapp gas , beleive me , it got hot enough lol hot enough to melt the copper fitting while i was playing around it see if i could get it to stickknuklehead wrote:You said you are using silver solder, is it a hard solder in a solid stick? If so what kind of torch are you using to heat? I think Uncle Remus already mentioned that you will need to get the metal red hot to use this type of solder and for that you will need a turbo torch, not just a regular blow torch. You can get a soft solder that has silver in it and for this you will not need to heat the metal as hot. The key to soldering is really the flux you use. If you use the wrong flux the solder will not flow, if at all. When you use the right flux it will work like a dream.allen42 wrote:well guys i bought some SS lil pots , perfect size and fairly cheap too, i was all excited right up till i tried to silver solder the damn cooper to the SS!! what a mess i made !! i will try some lead free solder next time i get brave enough to soak 5 gallons in carbon !!lol after busting my A@@ to clean this last batch it might take awhile for me to ever soak it on carbon again !! lol
thanks for all the advice & Ideas ... i am sure i work on it again before the new year , if for no other reason to show the SS & Copper whos BOSSS!!!! lol
Merry Christmas everybody !!
Allen
i used the zink cloride * sp* as a flux and i could get the solder to stick to the copper without any problems at all, but the stainless , now that was another story
i'll play with it somemore over the holiday& report back, i might try a different solder too
-
- Trainee
- Posts: 787
- Joined: Tue May 03, 2005 8:38 am
- Location: great white north
I use a wire type silver called Braze 452. You gotta use silver solder flux. Make sure both surfaces are spotlessly clean.
Are you positive it is stainless you got and not a polished aluminum or aluminum alloy?
Usually silver soldering is a piece of cake.
Are you positive it is stainless you got and not a polished aluminum or aluminum alloy?
Usually silver soldering is a piece of cake.
Give a man a fish and he will eat for a day. Teach a man to fish and he will sit in a boat all day and drink beer.
uncle remus , its Stainless , cheap stainless i am sure BUT it is SS, not sure of the name brand of silver solder i have ..all i am sure of is that is says Silver solder , the flux is zinc cloride , it is s liquid ,pink in color , i cleaned with a wire brush the brushed everything with the flux,
i havent given up on the project yet , i will have the week after xmas ,so i will work on it then
thanks for all yalls advice !!
i havent given up on the project yet , i will have the week after xmas ,so i will work on it then
thanks for all yalls advice !!
-
- Trainee
- Posts: 787
- Joined: Tue May 03, 2005 8:38 am
- Location: great white north
I looked at the flux I got and it doesn't say the chemical make up of it...well maybe it did one time but the writing on the bottle is faded now. But the label says silver solder flux The flux is a thick white paste, it will almost floor you if you get a whiff while heating it.
Anyway play with it some more, let me know how it goes....Merry Christmas
Anyway play with it some more, let me know how it goes....Merry Christmas
Give a man a fish and he will eat for a day. Teach a man to fish and he will sit in a boat all day and drink beer.
I have a 1.2 Metre 2 inch still (copper) sitting on a 30 litre stainless steel boiler with a 1.3 kw internal heater. The pipe is full of copper mesh. the still head is based on one of the vertical reflux designs on the net with a pull off needle valve. I let the still balance itself for an hour or so and then after tipping out the first 100 ml extact at a rate of approx 700 ml an hour at 95.4% alcohol.
Using Turbo yeast l find l do not have to double distill nor sit on carbon. To me the trick is not to add too much sugar. Try and keep the alcohol at or below 14% otherwise you just seem to get more acete rather than ethonol. Also watch the temp as this also can create off flavours. try and keep it at approx 25 C
I have been distilling for four years now and this is my third still. I must say the height and tightly wound copper mesh really make a difference.
With a 2 inch diameter 15 inch still with copper mesh and the still head above, it is not hard to extract at 95%
Using Turbo yeast l find l do not have to double distill nor sit on carbon. To me the trick is not to add too much sugar. Try and keep the alcohol at or below 14% otherwise you just seem to get more acete rather than ethonol. Also watch the temp as this also can create off flavours. try and keep it at approx 25 C
I have been distilling for four years now and this is my third still. I must say the height and tightly wound copper mesh really make a difference.
With a 2 inch diameter 15 inch still with copper mesh and the still head above, it is not hard to extract at 95%
-
- Bootlegger
- Posts: 105
- Joined: Mon Oct 31, 2005 12:34 am
I dont know why you guys are getting so much dust in your product. If you follow the instructions from gert stand (sp?) website, there is also a link and most of the info on the home distiller site. It instructs to boil the carbon and decant all the dust, 4-5 times. I did this and ended up with almost no dust. I froze the product after and the rest of the dust clumped together ( you can see it) its a very minute amount. I then passed it through a cofee filter once and it turned out crystal clear.. There was almost no trace of black in the filter!
The boiling also improves the efficiancy of the carbon by allot.
The boiling also improves the efficiancy of the carbon by allot.
My first run, fermented with Turbo48, I just let sit on carbon for a week and filtered it off by hand through coffee filters. That made it halfway drinkable but didn't get rid off all the off taste. I hadn't added the max amount of sugar for this mash and had only gotten about 14% abv from the ferment. It refluxed to 95%.
My next 2 runs, I added more sugar (17 lbs. in a 25 L wash) and got over 17%. It distilled to 95% too but had a distinct banana taste. Looked that up and found out it was isoamyl acetate. Good to know that's normal for a turbo loaded up with sugar. Anyway, I thought that might make an interesting drink so I mixed it with tonic after diluting right out of the still. But it tasted more like a bad artificial banana flavor.
Then I let it sit outside in subfreezing temp for a couple days while I set up a real filter tube per Gert Strand. Just for the heck of it, I tried a drink of it again before filtering, and the banana flavor had mellowed and was pretty good.
But I filtered it through the tube anyway, and was blown away by the results. It stripped out all the taste, came out real smooth. I've NEVER liked drinking vodka on the rocks with no mixer, but this was so smooth I switched over to drinking it that way for a couple days just to enjoy the fruit of my efforts unadulterated. Smooth as silk. So I definitely recommend this method.
My next 2 runs, I added more sugar (17 lbs. in a 25 L wash) and got over 17%. It distilled to 95% too but had a distinct banana taste. Looked that up and found out it was isoamyl acetate. Good to know that's normal for a turbo loaded up with sugar. Anyway, I thought that might make an interesting drink so I mixed it with tonic after diluting right out of the still. But it tasted more like a bad artificial banana flavor.
Then I let it sit outside in subfreezing temp for a couple days while I set up a real filter tube per Gert Strand. Just for the heck of it, I tried a drink of it again before filtering, and the banana flavor had mellowed and was pretty good.
But I filtered it through the tube anyway, and was blown away by the results. It stripped out all the taste, came out real smooth. I've NEVER liked drinking vodka on the rocks with no mixer, but this was so smooth I switched over to drinking it that way for a couple days just to enjoy the fruit of my efforts unadulterated. Smooth as silk. So I definitely recommend this method.
The book says just to taste what's coming out, but someone on one of these pages had a great hint - use hot water, so you can feel the pipe and tell what's coming out. Since my alcohol was so cold that helped in feeling the difference too. I even suspect that kept it from mixing too much. And it's good not to dilute all the way down to your final percentage before filtering, in case it gets diluted more. Measure the abv and do a final dilute afterwards. Another thing I'm going to try is setting my digital thermometer w/ temp alarm and taping the probe to the pipe near the bottom so it alerts me when it's time to change the collection jar and I don't have to keep checking it.Chub wrote:One thing about the book I did not understand was how it said to pour water in the filter column then add product in before the water stops. How would you know when to start collecting? Also some have just used plain pvc pipe for this what have you guys used?
I bought the filter column from brewhaus, which says it's chemical tolerant. There's a lot of debate here about what kind of plastic is and isn't safe, so I'm still confused about that. So I figured better safe than sorry.
Was just having a read of this topic.
I carbon mine anyhow can't do any harm, and doesnt take that long.
Saw one of these in a home brew shop might make something similar out of copper.
http://www.homebrewkegs.com/filter.php" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
Basically you pack the bottom bit with filter paper, cotton wool, then fill the smaller column with carbon, screw together and fill up with spirits.
The idea is to let it drip at 2 drips sec, (tap at bottom). this way the spirit gets a fair amount of time on the carbon and the papers should filter it clean.
I carbon mine anyhow can't do any harm, and doesnt take that long.
Saw one of these in a home brew shop might make something similar out of copper.
http://www.homebrewkegs.com/filter.php" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
Basically you pack the bottom bit with filter paper, cotton wool, then fill the smaller column with carbon, screw together and fill up with spirits.
The idea is to let it drip at 2 drips sec, (tap at bottom). this way the spirit gets a fair amount of time on the carbon and the papers should filter it clean.
-
- Bootlegger
- Posts: 105
- Joined: Mon Oct 31, 2005 12:34 am
this is what i use a z-carbon filter system.
http://www.westbrew.com.au/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
http://www.westbrew.com.au/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
-
- Master of Distillation
- Posts: 3086
- Joined: Fri Feb 03, 2006 11:40 am
- Location: Texas
-
- Trainee
- Posts: 787
- Joined: Tue May 03, 2005 8:38 am
- Location: great white north
I thought I read something to that effect too. About copper reacting with carbon, but I can't find where I read it. I wonder if The Chemist could tell us.junkyard dawg wrote:seems I read that copper is a poor material for a carbon filter. bad reactions... Here i go searching again...
Give a man a fish and he will eat for a day. Teach a man to fish and he will sit in a boat all day and drink beer.
-
- Master of Distillation
- Posts: 3086
- Joined: Fri Feb 03, 2006 11:40 am
- Location: Texas
-
- Novice
- Posts: 41
- Joined: Wed Apr 05, 2006 8:04 am
- Location: Da nort-woods
I don't know how many of y'all have seen the tv program on Discovery Channel called "Mythbusters". The show is a couple of goofball characters that take myths, urban legends and such and put them to the test. They lean towards issues that allow them to blow things up and such.
Anyway, on an episode last week, they tested the Brita filter legend. I may have the details wrong but they took some rotgut vodka, and made samples of it unfiltered, filtered once, twice...up to six times. Then had a professional vodka taster rank them and he got them exactly right in order with the top-shelf vodka being the best.
Thought it might be on-topic here.
JB
Anyway, on an episode last week, they tested the Brita filter legend. I may have the details wrong but they took some rotgut vodka, and made samples of it unfiltered, filtered once, twice...up to six times. Then had a professional vodka taster rank them and he got them exactly right in order with the top-shelf vodka being the best.
Thought it might be on-topic here.
JB
Last edited by hillbilly_john on Wed Apr 26, 2006 4:52 am, edited 1 time in total.
Sorry, but I've once again a translation problem... What do you mean with "the top-shelf still"?
The most filtered or no filtered?
The most filtered or no filtered?
I'm french speaking!
Boiler : 50 L (13 gal) beer keg, gas heated.
Reflux : 104 cm (41 inches) column 54 mm (2 inches) diameter withh SS scrubbers packing.
Potstill : 40 cm (15 inches) column 54 mm (2 inches) diameter without packing.
Boiler : 50 L (13 gal) beer keg, gas heated.
Reflux : 104 cm (41 inches) column 54 mm (2 inches) diameter withh SS scrubbers packing.
Potstill : 40 cm (15 inches) column 54 mm (2 inches) diameter without packing.
-
- Novice
- Posts: 41
- Joined: Wed Apr 05, 2006 8:04 am
- Location: Da nort-woods
I saw that episode of mythbusters. The vodka expert said that while filtering makes it better you cant turn a rotgut bottle into a top shelf by doing it. So how do you make top shelf vodka? I have almost finished my still and have been wondering if what makes a great vodka is not being the purest but leaving in a tiny bit of the quality, tasty tails from a quality wash or am I way off?