Electric heating elements
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Electric heating elements
Hey everyone I was looking to upgrade my still with an electric heating element. Ive got someone that can weld stainless steel I was wondering if anyone knows exactly what the threaded fitting he would need to weld into my boiler is called.. thanks if you can help!
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- Swill Maker
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Re: Electric heating elements
A bit of a vague question I'm afraid. Lots of elements take different threads and some are triclamp connections. It depends where you are in the world and what size of element you want. Buy an element and then have him weld the correct fitting for that specific element on to it!
Re: Electric heating elements
If you just want to attach a threaded element, you need a 1" NPS half coupler welded on at minimum. You would want a guard over the electrical connections and a ground point too.
There are nice tri-clamp options too with element guards and ground stud where you are adding either a 1-1/2" or 2" ferrule to the boiler and using prefabricated adapters.
There are nice tri-clamp options too with element guards and ground stud where you are adding either a 1-1/2" or 2" ferrule to the boiler and using prefabricated adapters.
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- still_stirrin
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Re: Electric heating elements
Something like this works: https://www.glaciertanks.com/tri-clamp- ... 0-nps.htmlSeanjohn19 wrote: ↑Sat Jan 30, 2021 10:53 pm Hey everyone I was looking to upgrade my still with an electric heating element. Ive got someone that can weld stainless steel I was wondering if anyone knows exactly what the threaded fitting he would need to weld into my boiler is called.. thanks if you can help!
Weld a 2” ferrule onto the keg just above the lower skirt. Then this adapter will accept the element and clamp onto the ferrule. You can order the ferrule, clamp, and PTFE gasket from them as well.
ss
Last edited by still_stirrin on Sun Jan 31, 2021 10:23 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Electric heating elements
I guess you mean something like that right?
This is typically called "female Coupling F/F"Re: Electric heating elements
I went with the flexibility of the TC fitting and recommend that route as other have suggested.
The ferules come in different lengths. https://www.brewershardware.com/2-Tri-C ... ory_id=379
The ferules come in different lengths. https://www.brewershardware.com/2-Tri-C ... ory_id=379
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Re: Electric heating elements
I think this will work aswell thanksstill_stirrin wrote: ↑Sun Jan 31, 2021 10:21 amSomething like this works: https://www.glaciertanks.com/tri-clamp- ... 0-nps.htmlSeanjohn19 wrote: ↑Sat Jan 30, 2021 10:53 pm Hey everyone I was looking to upgrade my still with an electric heating element. Ive got someone that can weld stainless steel I was wondering if anyone knows exactly what the threaded fitting he would need to weld into my boiler is called.. thanks if you can help!
Weld a 2” ferrule onto the keg just above the lower skirt. Then this adapter will accept the element and clamp onto the ferrule. You can order the ferrule, clamp, and PTFE gasket from them as well.
ss
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Re: Electric heating elements
Thanks everyone there's alot of different kinds.. I was also wondering if there's a weld less solution that anyone has used or seen used..
Re: Electric heating elements
My first keg boiler I did a weld less solution, it worked 'okay' but nothing compared to welded. Potential for little leaks in the gaskets, plus it was a major project to clean/replace an element. Not woth it.Seanjohn19 wrote: ↑Wed Feb 03, 2021 11:21 pm Thanks everyone there's alot of different kinds.. I was also wondering if there's a weld less solution that anyone has used or seen used..
As others have stated, go with a 2" TC it's a lot more flexible than a threaded nut.
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Re: Electric heating elements
You mean the length, right? You have to evaluate regular according to the thread of the element + any shapes (if welded) + if you need extra space for the element (for example if it has a narrow bottom of the stem and the element is long so an extension is useful for you) "). The tc version is a great alternative if you have shops nearby (not in my case). For the connection without welding you have to find a similar piece but with an external thread too so that you can insert 2 nuts, one inside and one outside (with gaskets).Seanjohn19 wrote: ↑Wed Feb 03, 2021 11:14 pmI think this is the right one thanks by any chance do you know how long of one I would need?
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Re: Electric heating elements
I've got a question on grounding a heating element. I'm using a tri clamp mounted element that has a center screw post. Can I ground to the center post?
- still_stirrin
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Re: Electric heating elements
You can.
The center screw will ground the plate that the elements are attached to. But, the elements are insulated from the mounting plate. When the plate (and elements) are attached to the boiler ferrule, the T/C clamp will complete the ground through the plate to the boiler. So you should be protected should a short occur from the element to the mounting plate.
I ground the housing and the boiler, although the T/C clamp will carry the ground through to the boiler from the element housing.
I think you’ll be OK.
ss
p.s. - If you want to check for bond integrity, put the element into the boiler, with the gasket and a T/C clamp. Then, use an ohmmeter and measure the resistance between the screw (you’re asking to ground) and the boiler shell. It should be a very low to no resistance measure. If so, you’re good.
The center screw will ground the plate that the elements are attached to. But, the elements are insulated from the mounting plate. When the plate (and elements) are attached to the boiler ferrule, the T/C clamp will complete the ground through the plate to the boiler. So you should be protected should a short occur from the element to the mounting plate.
I ground the housing and the boiler, although the T/C clamp will carry the ground through to the boiler from the element housing.
I think you’ll be OK.
ss
p.s. - If you want to check for bond integrity, put the element into the boiler, with the gasket and a T/C clamp. Then, use an ohmmeter and measure the resistance between the screw (you’re asking to ground) and the boiler shell. It should be a very low to no resistance measure. If so, you’re good.
My LM/VM & Potstill: My build thread
My Cadco hotplate modification thread: Hotplate Build
My stock pot gin still: stock pot potstill
My 5-grain Bourbon recipe: Special K
My Cadco hotplate modification thread: Hotplate Build
My stock pot gin still: stock pot potstill
My 5-grain Bourbon recipe: Special K
- Heavy_Spirits
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Re: Electric heating elements
Thank you so much for confirming that! Great tip on checking with the ohmmeter.
still_stirrin wrote: ↑Wed Jun 16, 2021 8:31 pm You can.
The center screw will ground the plate that the elements are attached to. But, the elements are insulated from the mounting plate. When the plate (and elements) are attached to the boiler ferrule, the T/C clamp will complete the ground through the plate to the boiler. So you should be protected should a short occur from the element to the mounting plate.
I ground the housing and the boiler, although the T/C clamp will carry the ground through to the boiler from the element housing.
I think you’ll be OK.
ss
p.s. - If you want to check for bond integrity, put the element into the boiler, with the gasket and a T/C clamp. Then, use an ohmmeter and measure the resistance between the screw (you’re asking to ground) and the boiler shell. It should be a very low to no resistance measure. If so, you’re good.
Re: Electric heating elements
I used a 15.5 gal half barrel keg. I had 2 x 1.5" tri clamp, 1 x 2" tri clamp, and 1 x 4" tri clamp connector welded on mine. One for my Heating element, one for a drain, a 2" for whatever I may need to add later, and a 4" for a cleanout. Hope this helps!
Re: Electric heating elements
Alternate to welding: (for screw in electric water heater elements)Seanjohn19 wrote: ↑Wed Feb 03, 2021 11:21 pm Thanks everyone there's alot of different kinds.. I was also wondering if there's a weld less solution that anyone has used or seen used..
I have attached stainless steel 1" npt half couplings to a short pony keg and to a corny lid using Harris Stay-Brite 8 and Stay-Clean LIQUID flux.
They work well together and make a very strong bond. My joints are two years old and show no signs of anything. There is cleaning prep work that needs to be done that you can read about elsewhere. If you clean the bottom 1/4" of the side of the coupling it will be very easy to form a fillet for added strength.
I do not recommend 45% or 56% silver braze as you will risk over-heating and cracking the keg.
Not having a machine to do this, I radiused the bottom of the coupling by rubbing it over 220 wet paper layed on the keg. This is a boring and slow go, but it works. The better the fit the better the joint.
So far, I have drilled the holes in the kegs AFTER soldering. If you flow water(for cooling) into the coupling while you drill it will go amazingly fast with a bi-metal hole saw. btw: The basic Stay-Brite (4%) seems to be more than adequate.
Re: Electric heating elements
I used this from still dragon and I couldn't be happier.
- Salt Must Flow
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Re: Electric heating elements
Check out all of the options that Dernord offers on Amazon. I have this one and it has been perfect. All you have to do is cut a hole and have a 2" Tri-Clamp ferrule welded to the lower side of your boiler. I would not recommend a short ferrule because short ferrules make tightening the clamp more difficult due to very little clearance. Medium to long ferrules are more convenient.
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Re: Electric heating elements
Having soldered a short ferrule to the bottom of my keg I can second this opinion. Thankfully I don't take the element off that often. It's not impossible, just a lot less comfortable than I'd like.Salt Must Flow wrote: ↑Wed Mar 16, 2022 8:10 am I would not recommend a short ferrule because short ferrules make tightening the clamp more difficult due to very little clearance. Medium to long ferrules are more convenient.
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Re: Electric heating elements
This is the one I am using.