My BrewHaus

[fullhouse]

finally got around to getting a few pics of the BH...i did away with the water kit that came with it and made a manifold type system that recirculates tru a 60 gallon olive barrel outside...split the inlet and outlet from the pump for head and condenser to be able to control separate.
I need to find a way to get rid of the rubber bung up top...sugestions ? its a 3 inch column.
also would like to change the hoses on the head to copper need to find fittings for 1/2" OD to 1/2" copper i guess

running rice gerber

water manifold

[Prairiepiss]

Have a 3" triclamp flange welded on top and use a triclamp cap gasket and clamp.

[fullhouse]

excellent idea...thanks Mr P. think ill call BH and see what they would charge to do it for me if i send it back to them ...live in a small town not sure who even welds stainless and not sure i want the questions from the locals yanno

[Bayou-Ruler]

looks good

[Kiwikeg]

find a plumber or someone with the right size hole saw to cut one out of nontoxic wood. or whittle one to fit- my euro 60 had a similar bung at top i am currently using a bung i roughed up out of a bit or a deadfall oak branch i found that was the right diameter. but a triclamp would be tidier.

[Fjard]

you can silver solder the TriClamp Ferrul on if you can't find a local welder.

[fullhouse]

ahhh think im liking the wod stopper will be better than the rubber for now anyways...and i have wood shop tools i can do it with. thinking nice piece of hickory or white oak!

i can solder but havent tried the heavy gauge stuff yet...but will keep it in mind as another option if all else fails!

[Washashore]

Yup. I'd say wood with ptfe tape. No need for copper for cooling lines though. What you have is fine.

[fullhouse]

yeah i just want to tidy up the cross tubes a bit with copper...works great like it is tho

[likkerluvver]

Check these out:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/EG14R3-0-3-Sani ... 23080ab10a" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

It is an interference fit. Put the top column in a freezer for a few hours, heat up the fitting and use a mallet to tap it on so that the flange surface is level with the top of the 3" tube.

A 3" Teflon gasket, a 3" end cap (with a thermowell added for temp. readings when refluxing) and a 3" tri-clamp and you're good to go. That's what I have for my 3" BH rig. Works a treat.

[fullhouse]

likker~ really like that idea thankz
does the fitting go inside the pipe or outside?

[likkerluvver]

The fitting goes outside the pipe. The inside diameter is probably a few thou. less than 3".

When it is driven right down onto the pipe, the Teflon gasket will seal against the pipe and the fitting - not that much (anything?) would escape through that tight interference fit.

[HolyBear]

Sweet!!! You and I have bout the same setup...(Mrs Bessie Pearl)...I need to insulate mine. What is the name of the insulation u have? Have u noticed how hot your reflux lines get when running in pot still mode? My lowest (input) line fell off from heat and gravity...I justhave wittled a piecelittle of pignutthe hickory for a plug, then drilledI a hole for the thermometer. Wish I would have ordered a digital, sucks to keep climbing ladder to check temp... anywaz good looking still man!!!

[fullhouse]

actually the inso is 2 layers of 1/2 inch excersize floor pad with heating duct thermo tape works great...as for the lines i take mine off when pot stillin....had em hooked one time in pot mode and blew a line due to pressure ...i also picked up a digital thermometer at walmart for 15 bucks with a 3 ft line on it also has a magnet on back but had to tape a washer to the column inso so it would stick where i wanted it

[heartcut]

The top of my still is 2" copper and the dephleg goes thru a 2" copper cap which just slides over the pipe. I planned to use some teflon tape if it leaked, but it doesn't. Hey, one more option.

[RidgebackDad]

Check these out:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/EG14R3-0-3-Sani ... 23080ab10a" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

It is an interference fit. Put the top column in a freezer for a few hours, heat up the fitting and use a mallet to tap it on so that the flange surface is level with the top of the 3" tube.

A 3" Teflon gasket, a 3" end cap (with a thermowell added for temp. readings when refluxing) and a 3" tri-clamp and you're good to go. That's what I have for my 3" BH rig. Works a treat.

Hi Likkerluvver,

I too have the same set up as you and fullhouse, but I'm having a hard time visualizing how this would work... do you have a picture of the top that you could share?

-RidgebackDad

[Thedrayman]

I was/am disappointed with my brewhaus HC ii, so my pipe welder has it now. I separated the condenser and put a 3" on each end so if I need it some day I can clamp it on. The reflux now has a tri clamp on each end. I put a 1/2" female ss weld butt at the top of the lower tube, opposite end of screen welded inside. This is for a thermometer. The rest of the upper tube I made another thermometer tri clamp small tube. Now........I have two 3"elbows, a 45, a 3-1" reducer. My first test was just the bottom tube, thermo, packed with copper, clamp the els on top, im going to experiment with the reflux on the output side of the els into the 45, then the reducer and then into a copper condenser I made and a home made parrot. This is my pot still sort of and it cranks a lot better than the original. Next run I am going to put the other tube on, another thermo before the els and pack the whole tower, run it pot style and see what type of return it gives. My original started at 80% so I am hoping to get a little more and interested to see how it runs with the reflux on the output side. I'm shooting blind here but after seeing all these designs with the defleg opposite the tower it looks as though it almost pulls the vapors to the slightly cooler zone. It's an experiment.........lol.

[Bayou-Ruler]

I was/am disappointed with my brewhaus HC ii, so my pipe welder has it now. I separated the condenser and put a 3" on each end so if I need it some day I can clamp it on. The reflux now has a tri clamp on each end. I put a 1/2" female ss weld butt at the top of the lower tube, opposite end of screen welded inside. This is for a thermometer. The rest of the upper tube I made another thermometer tri clamp small tube. Now........I have two 3"elbows, a 45, a 3-1" reducer. My first test was just the bottom tube, thermo, packed with copper, clamp the els on top, im going to experiment with the reflux on the output side of the els into the 45, then the reducer and then into a copper condenser I made and a home made parrot. This is my pot still sort of and it cranks a lot better than the original. Next run I am going to put the other tube on, another thermo before the els and pack the whole tower, run it pot style and see what type of return it gives. My original started at 80% so I am hoping to get a little more and interested to see how it runs with the reflux on the output side. I'm shooting blind here but after seeing all these designs with the defleg opposite the tower it looks as though it almost pulls the vapors to the slightly cooler zone. It's an experiment.........lol.

Good luck!

[Thedrayman]

I can't send a pic from my iPad..........anyone know how to do that?.........lol....

[bentstick]

I can't send a pic from my iPad..........anyone know how to do that?.........lol....

Try to copy from pic gallery then paste it here or in the file below when you go to post,this works for e-mails dont know if it supported here. Can you understand this I am trying but ? My words dont make sense most of the time!

[Thedrayman]

I can copy the pic but I can't paste it here

[RidgebackDad]

Posting from the iPad to the forum isn't supported (as far as I can tell - I've tried it several times). The only way I've found is to sync your iPad to your computer and post it (upload it) from there.

RBD

[Thedrayman]

I'm tryin.......lol

[DAD300]

I use these all the time, recessless ferrules, force them over the outside of the SS pipe with a rubber hammer or wood 2x4. Heating and cooling helps. And they are reusable later!

After you put a ferrule on the top of your CM, you can add a reflux condenser and have a VM!

All done in SS without welding or soldering.

[HolyBear]

Dad, where can I get one of those recessless feruls?

[Thedrayman]

I believe those are called roll on ferruls, they are intended ta be rolled into permanent place so they don't come apart. Say you were transferring beer to a tank with a good pump, those babies need to be secured, not just slipped over the pipe and call it a day.......otherwise there is the chance of a loose enough clamp and the two can be separated. I have a few of these leftover from a brewpub that went out of business in southern Vermont. And I will never reuse them. Go to http://www.gwkent.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow and looks thru the prices........we buy a lot of fittings for my brewery there. That's where i got all my 3" fittings ( tc) from for my new build.......but be very careful with a roll on ferrul.......we would never use them at the brewery.

[Thedrayman]

GW Kent doesn't sell them, I did a search.......I don't know any professional brewers, including myself, that uses these.........so I gave my warning to all......lol........


Get your ferrules welded on!........



The roll on ferrules should also have a tool which crimps or rolls it into a secure situation...........I will check with the last known person that I know used one........as I said.....it's in my garage still attached to the pump........and it don't slide off........

[DAD300]

Warning!!!!!!

If you've got pressures in your still that require a welded ferrule, you're in trouble.

Sanitary Expanding Recessless Clamp Ferrule http://www.ebay.com/itm/EG14R2-0-2-Sani ... 23080aad78" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

They are a press fit, and you drive them on with a mallet or 2x4. They are not rolled on.

rec fer.jpg (1.76 KiB) Viewed 2430 times

I found them initially at a dairy supply. Dairies using 50 psi to pasteurize (HOT) and move milk around the plant over 100's of yards using these ferrules. I use these almost exclusively and they never leak or move on the pipe!

[Thedrayman]

Cool, have fun with them.......