Advice on My First Build - Modular CCVM

[UAVTech]

Hello Everyone!

I just want to start off by thanking everyone that takes time to read and comment on this forum. It is a wealth of information that I have enjoyed immensely!
I have been distilling with a free air still for a few months now. After visiting this site most nights since starting I am looking at building something a little more substantial. I debated posting this for risk of seeming uninformed but thought that I would post my idea for my still build to get some feedback from the group before I invested too much time and money.

Although I feel I could build my own still, I have decided to go the route of designing it and getting a friend of mine who has a machine shop to build it for me. I want to thank Dad300 for the idea of a CCVM still design. When I first came across it, it immediately made sense to me on how it worked and how I might “drive” it. This is the basis of my design.

Modular CCVM

Considerations:
- Be able to make a decent neutral. I am a Vodka drinker but don’t consider myself a connoisseur.
- Modular design that would allow me to grow with additional components and run as a pot still for stripping runs or reflux for spirit runs. Options to update / upgrade in the future.
- Cost effective. Although my wife has given the nod to spending some money on a new still, I don’t think a flute is in my cards right now, but I hope will be in the future.

Boiler
- I was able to source a 30L SS “tall style” keg locally for $50 Cdn. 2” ferrule on top.
- I feel like this size will work well for the size of batches I ferment (2 x 20L), but limits the length of heating element I can fit in it.
- I am looking at going with a 1500w electric heating element with a treaded / triclamp fitting about 4” from the bottom of my boiler.
- I was going to install a larger port on the top but after some reading on the mandatory reading it said 2” was ok. Saves some time there.
- Will use a heater control so I can adjust it during the run.

Column
- Looking at 40” long, 2” (or maybe 3”?) stainless steel reflux tower.
- Ferrules on each end.
- Packed with cooper mesh. I can get this in Canada pretty easy and need to have copper somewhere in there.

Column Coil
- Will be made out of CSST.
- Sort of a cold finger design and will be adjustable. (obviously I guess)
- Was thinking about 12” long, one line down and wrapped around that on the way up.

Take Off
- Standard Tee. Modular with tri-clamps.
- Gives me the ability to adjust the angle of the product condenser.

Product Condenser
- Shotgun condenser same size as column 2 or 3”.
- Thinking 24” long.

Cooling
- Small submersible pump, water in a cooler with frozen plastic 4L bottles.
- Change out bottles as needed. From what I have read just need to keep below 130F.

Modular
- By adding one more 90 degree and moving the piece of pipe that houses my coil in reflux I can run as pot still for stripping runs.
- Option to add a site glass on top of column before take off

Questions
- I am going to get quotes for 2” and 3” build. Would a 1,500w element have capacity for a 3” x 40” column packed the whole length with copper mesh?
- Is 12” long enough for column cooling by CSST?
- Any other advice? Major things I have missed? Minor things I have missed?

Thank you in advance for any advice I might receive.

-UAVTech-

[BayouShine]

http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... 50&t=64357

Just built one for a friend of mine. It can run in CCVM or Pot still mode with a few easy adjustments. This one is 2".

[UAVTech]

Thanks Bayou!

That makes me feel like I am on the right track. It is basically the same!! Maybe I will be get some driving tips from him!?

The post is going to help me describe the shotgun build to the guy I am going to get to weld stuff up for me as well. Beauty!

-UAVTech-

[BayouShine]

If you plan on building the main column out of stainless, you can order sanitary pipe with ferrules already attached. The only fab work would be making the shotgun condenser.

[UAVTech]

You bet. Sadly I am in the True North and most of the stuff is US based. I live fairly close to border but figured if it cost me the same to get a buddy to weld it up for me all the better.

[GrassHopper]

That build should do you good. I went with the ice thing for a bit and soon realized that wasn't for me. I jumped up to a 35 gal recycle water reservoir for cooling and found that wasn't enough
either for my 15 gal boiler. It's okay on a strip run, but on a spirit run in reflux mode I need 3 water changes to finish. With a 30 liter boiler yours will be less, but I think you will find that ice is a
PITA. My column is a 2" and I want to go 3" just so my take off volumn will be better. That said, I have been very happy with the 2" CCVM. My column is 36" not including the reflux condensor area above the T, which is about 12" and a 9" coiled RC with a dedicated water input. A small pump may not be enough to get the water up to your RC. Be sure to pay attention to how much flow you will get for the amount of height it has to pump to. I run a pond pump with an output of around 600 gph. I just got all my parts to build my controller to power the element to go electric. Looking forward to that. After close to a hundred runs on propane, I am ready to be weaned off the gas even though I opened up the shop doors.

[UAVTech]

Thanks for the advice on the pump Grasshopper.

You mentioned ice was a PITA and jumped to a 35 gal recycle water reservoir and that wasn't enough.

What did you eventually do for cooling? Just a bigger pump with the 35 gal?

[GrassHopper]

Thanks for the advice on the pump Grasshopper.

You mentioned ice was a PITA and jumped to a 35 gal recycle water reservoir and that wasn't enough.

What did you eventually do for cooling? Just a bigger pump with the 35 gal?

Fortunately, I have a shop with access to a faucet . I just put a siphon hose into my water barrel and drain it outside until it gets low and then fill it back up with cold water from my faucet via a garden hose. I plan to get some bigger barrels.....I figure two 55 gal barrels would do the job for an entire spirit run without having to change the water. I could just run my tap water direct and then drain it, but that seems wasteful. And, it costs money to buy city water. In the summer, it wouldn't be an issue....I could use my well water (I have to shut it down in the winter).

[kimbodious]

You should route the cooling water in from the lowest part of your product condenser then up to and out from your reflux condenser.

Here is my modular 2" SS CCVM on a 50 litre beer keg heated by a 2200w electric element - love it, so easy to run!

[GrassHopper]

You should route the cooling water in from the lowest part of your product condenser then up to and out from your reflux condenser.

Here is my modular 2" SS CCVM on a 50 litre beer keg heated by a 2200w electric element - love it, so easy to run!

image.jpeg

That's a sweet looking CCVM there kimbodious!

[der wo]

1.5kW is not much for 2". And 3" would not have any benefit if running at 1.5kW.

Would it be possible for you to use a more powerful element? 2.5kW for 2" or 5kW for 3" for example?

[BayouShine]

Modular
- By adding one more 90 degree and moving the piece of pipe that houses my coil in reflux I can run as pot still for stripping runs.
- Option to add a site glass on top of column before take off

You don't really need this 90. Have another ferrule added to the top of your T where you insert the reflux coil. You can put a cap on that end and it will function as a pot still for a fraction of the price of that 90. The takeoff to the condenser will stay the same as CCVM mode.

[UAVTech]

Thank you Der Wo.

After your feed back I am thinking I will have to have two elements, or try and get a larger keg that I can put a 240v 5,500w element in.

I am going to be building a controller for my heating. Do you think I would have a need to varible control both heating elements? Or would I be able to run both full tilt up to reflux and then control one of them?

Thank you,

[der wo]

With 5.5kW you need the 3" column. You don't mention it, so I say it again, just for sure.

You could connect them parallel and use one controller for both elements. But generally for heating with elements I am the wrong conversation partner.

[StillerBoy]

- I was able to source a 30L SS “tall style” keg locally for $50 Cdn. 2” ferrule on top.

I am going to get quotes for 2” and 3” build. Would a 1,500w element have capacity for a 3” x 40” column packed the whole length with copper mesh?

Your keg is called a "quarter keg", and it measures 12" wide x 23" tall.. if the size I mention is correct, a 1500 watt element will work, but it's going to be on the slow side.. an 5500 watt element will heat up 26L in 15 minutes.. the only 5500 watt stainless element that I could find that will fit in that keg size was from Lowe.. that is what I have use in my quarter keg boiler, and it workz well.. have been using it for over 4 years now on a weekly bases..

Mars

[BayouShine]

Thank you Der Wo.

After your feed back I am thinking I will have to have two elements, or try and get a larger keg that I can put a 240v 5,500w element in.

I am going to be building a controller for my heating. Do you think I would have a need to varible control both heating elements? Or would I be able to run both full tilt up to reflux and then control one of them?

Thank you,

Do you plan on using these elements on 120v? You're going to run into a few issues if this is the case. You'll either be under-powering the elements if you run them in series or overload the circuit if you run them in parallel. Really, you'd have to be on a separate circuit to run both effectively and simultaneously.

As far as control of both elements, you'll only need 1 controller and an on/off switch to run both on 120v. Run one either off or on full power and fine tune the other. That way you'll have control over the full heating capacity of your still.

Another thing to consider is the watt density of the elements. Higher watt density will increase the chance of scorching anything that settles out of the wash.

[UAVTech]

Stiller Boy: I will PM about the element as I think you are from the True North as well.

From the mandatory reading I found out my keg is a:
5: 7.75gal Sanke; 14"w, 24"h

Although mine seems a little narrower.

http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... =65&t=8473

Bayou: I can run on either 120 or 240. Was looking forward enough that when I finished our basement I had a 240 circuit/ outlet put in. Looks like I am going that route based on the feedback I have gotten.

Thanks,

[BayouShine]

Definitely go the 240v route if you're able to. There's a bunch of controller builds in the Electric Accessories forum.