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Expat wrote:Sounds like you're burning the flux. Heat should be applied indirectly to the joint by working the largest of the pieces, and increased until the joint is at temp. The procedure I use, as learnt from an article somewhere on here is to fashion a ring of solder around the joint. When it's hot enough to run, the solder will go. Avoid directly heating the solder.
At this point you'll have to clean the hell of the surfaces to create a clean work area.
Swedish Pride wrote:well for thin ss to thin ss I'd recomend a 150w soldering iron, it's the ducks nuts
Pikey wrote:All this advice about sldering stainless - is scary !
Swedish Pride wrote:heat the copper not the ss, apply more flux if it blackens and just keep heating the copper.
you got the right tools, just keep at it, you'll get it soon enough
Overall, it took me about 10 tries and many of those I had to de-solder and use a belt sander to grind down to fresh material
Boozewaves wrote:Overall, it took me about 10 tries and many of those I had to de-solder and use a belt sander to grind down to fresh material
I also had trouble connecting stainless to copper . glad you managed to do it in the end . I tried using propane through a torch with silver solder , I could not get the parts hot enough , using an arc welder got it hot enough to melt but the results were not very good , at least I did not think it was a good join , when I grinded the chunks of melted rod off the piece it turned out it was actually a pretty good join , however I have asked somebody to tig weld the pieces for me now , 2 parts are done , just waiting for the other piece , I gave him the silver solder rods as I have no use for them , will have to pay them for their time as well but thats o.k . I think if I had known how hard it would be I would have used pre made stainless steel tubes with ferrules already attached and copper scrubbies in the column
Did you just put the SS in the arc BW and go to it ? or did you use the flux ? I got some stainless rods to give Sttinless to stainless a go - ot tried it yet.
You're in Uk ? where did you get the solder if you don't mind me asking - I struggled to find it except silly little bits for "Jewellery "
Boozewaves wrote:Did you just put the SS in the arc BW and go to it ? or did you use the flux ? I got some stainless rods to give Sttinless to stainless a go - ot tried it yet.
You're in Uk ? where did you get the solder if you don't mind me asking - I struggled to find it except silly little bits for "Jewellery "
Hi Pikey , yes tried to use it similar to using a brazing rod with the welder , did not use flux , it was an experiment really , it seems to work and was a firm joint , looked really good after I grinded it down with a sandpaper flap disc , I was just getting it ready to go to be tig welded by somebody else , pretty sure I could have continued to use the silver solder to do the join
at that moment in time though the person with the tig welder had been phoned and asked and said they would give it a go , I thought tig weld would be better and the pieces I have had back are really well done and waterproof , its gonna cost me around £40 but for part of a 3 inch ccvm column that will be quite heavy because of the stainless tee , it will need to be a strong join so worth paying him ,
silver solder was from here , I got 2 packs for £24 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SILVER-BRAZI ... 3307037893
Swedish Pride wrote:Yous don't need to hard solder it, just get the right flux and lead free plumbers solder.
Swedish Pride wrote:HArris stay clean works lovely
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Harris-SCLF16- ... Sw8mpbGwOm
StarkBlood1980 wrote:I’ve got the same kit, I tried doing brazing some 67mm copper pipe to ferrules and failed dismally using mapp gas. I couldn’t even get the silver solder to melt!
I’m going to give it another this weekend after watching a still it video on YouTube.
Swedish Pride wrote:Yous don't need to hard solder it, just get the right flux and lead free plumbers solder.
StarkBlood1980 wrote:Swedish Pride wrote:HArris stay clean works lovely
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Harris-SCLF16- ... Sw8mpbGwOm
This is the flux I’m using for brazing http://www.jm-metaljoining.com/pdfs-pro ... Powder.pdf
I’m guessing that won’t work for plumbers solder. That Harris stay clean is expensive here in the UK, not sure I can justify £40 on 3 ferrules.
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