From Reflux to Pot Still (Modular)

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theskaz
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From Reflux to Pot Still (Modular)

Post by theskaz »

I started a pot still build with a shotgun condenser and thumper. I have had a Bokakob column for a while, and am reusing the boiler from it. it's all electric and putting ferrules so I can add/remove the thumper, and shotgun condenser. also, if I want to make a neutral spirit again, pop the bokakob back on. ill be adding a 4" fill/clean port to the boiler too.
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fizzix
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Re: From Reflux to Pot Still (Modular)

Post by fizzix »

Nice work. You builders amaze me,
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Re: From Reflux to Pot Still (Modular)

Post by StillerBoy »

Looking good so far.. keep the pictures coming..

I'm also in the process of adding a thumper to my setup, have all the parts required, just need to start the soldering process..

Mars
" I know quite certainly that I myself have no special talent. Curiosity, Obsession and dogged endurance, combined with self-criticism, have brought me to my knowledge and understanding "

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theskaz
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Re: From Reflux to Pot Still (Modular)

Post by theskaz »

Made a little more progress. still wainting on my SS ferrules. And the shotgun condenser. I made an error in planning it seems. 5x 1/2in pipes (5/8 OD) in a 2in pipe is really tight. not sure my skills are up to it yet.
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MoonBreath
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Re: From Reflux to Pot Still (Modular)

Post by MoonBreath »

Yes, 5 are tight..The majority of em have 4 (1/2" id) design.
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Twisted Brick
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Re: From Reflux to Pot Still (Modular)

Post by Twisted Brick »

Here's a basic 4-tube shotgun design you could copy.... :D
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theskaz
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Re: From Reflux to Pot Still (Modular)

Post by theskaz »

So, having fun trying to solder/braze SS to SS and SS to Copper... ran out of O2. those little tanks dont last long.

trying to source a paper template for the shotgun condenser has been a PITA. So, in attempts to actually contribute to this site, I have attached 2 PDFs.

Both are for 2" ID copper pipes. one has 4 1/2in ID 5/8 OD pipes, and the other has 5. I couldnt upload the docx version that I actually printed and is dead on, so I converted to PDF, to upload. I am going to attempt to do 5 pipes, and if I fail, ill drop down to 4.
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5Shotgun.pdf
(28.3 KiB) Downloaded 138 times
4Shotgun.pdf
(27.81 KiB) Downloaded 130 times
Last edited by theskaz on Thu Dec 13, 2018 9:06 am, edited 1 time in total.
theskaz
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Re: From Reflux to Pot Still (Modular)

Post by theskaz »

Twisted Brick wrote:Here's a basic 4-tube shotgun design you could copy.... :D
I SERIOUSLY thought about hitting you up for this, but I wanted to give it a try first. If i fail miserably, you are my backup plan.
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Twisted Brick
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Re: From Reflux to Pot Still (Modular)

Post by Twisted Brick »

theskaz wrote:
Twisted Brick wrote:Here's a basic 4-tube shotgun design you could copy.... :D
I SERIOUSLY thought about hitting you up for this, but I wanted to give it a try first. If i fail miserably, you are my backup plan.
You can do it. Just make sure all of your solder points have been cleaned thoroughly, and be gentle/patient with the heat application. If you have to re-apply fresh flux to the joint, do so carefully so that your solder doesn't just run wherever the flux was applied. This will also keep the solder in the joint and avoid pinholes later on.

Good luck.
“Always carry a flagon of whiskey in case of snakebite, and furthermore, always carry a small snake.”

- W.C. Fields

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Re: From Reflux to Pot Still (Modular)

Post by NineInchNails »

I believe I've read that when soldering a Shotgun condenser like this, they use high temp solder for joining the tubes & plate (interior solder work). They then use lower temp solder for all other fittings as to not melt the previous interior solder work.
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Twisted Brick
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Re: From Reflux to Pot Still (Modular)

Post by Twisted Brick »

NineInchNails wrote:I believe I've read that when soldering a Shotgun condenser like this, they use high temp solder for joining the tubes & plate (interior solder work). They then use lower temp solder for all other fittings as to not melt the previous interior solder work.
Another approach is to solder the tube set first, then solder in the endplate and ferrule after twisting cloth into the tubes and thoroughly wetting with a mister.

I flip-flopped on several solder strategies before finally pulling the trigger using Myles' advice to do it all in one go, and used 6% silver solder. After heating the shell with the tubes and endplates in place, I soldered in the endplate, then the ferrule. At that point the endplate and flanges were plenty hot and accepted solder easily.
“Always carry a flagon of whiskey in case of snakebite, and furthermore, always carry a small snake.”

- W.C. Fields

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StillerBoy
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Re: From Reflux to Pot Still (Modular)

Post by StillerBoy »

There were some good soldering tips on this thread, which you may want to read through.. thought behind the tips was to reduce some the soldering runs or built up.. viewtopic.php?f=50&t=73012
Twisted Brick wrote:After heating the shell with the tubes and endplates in place, I soldered in the endplate, then the ferrule. At that point the endplate and flanges were plenty hot and accepted solder easily.
In agreement on this quote.. making sure to heat up the piece to solder, doing it slowly with a fine tip solder end, and some small size solder wire, and some good washable paste..

Mars
" I know quite certainly that I myself have no special talent. Curiosity, Obsession and dogged endurance, combined with self-criticism, have brought me to my knowledge and understanding "

– Albert Einstein
theskaz
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Re: From Reflux to Pot Still (Modular)

Post by theskaz »

worked on the machining of the shotgun condenser:
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Reading more into the soldering as some have posted. ive jacked up some stuff from running too hot with the flux. Im going to try to clean, and redo before I even attempt at soldering the shotgun.
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Re: From Reflux to Pot Still (Modular)

Post by theskaz »

I got one side of the shotgun done. slowed down on the mapp gas, and got it together pretty well. I did some up-close pics for any feedback on my technique: (i will still clean it. the pics was taken with it still steaming hot)
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Also, the other end of the shotgun is up in the air. I have seen some peoplecut the tubes @ 45 degrees and put them in a reducer. is that the best way? i will need to add a coupler for the reducer as it's the exact same OD as the condender.
StillerBoy
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Re: From Reflux to Pot Still (Modular)

Post by StillerBoy »

Lookin good so far..

A few points to keep in mind.. be mindful of your heat application, the dark areas received more heat than other lighter colour areas.. heat the areas slowly and evenly, using a lower heat.. hotter heat can be used, but it will require you to work quickly, which when working in area such as a shotgun, is not recommended.. heat has to be applied evenly and slowly build up the temp in the area to be soldered..

The other thing is that the end that you have done, the pipe end will need to mill down some, otherwise there will be pooling of the liquid and vapours, which is not recommend..

Otherwise, a very good job so far.. when working in building product such as we do for distilling, one need to prepare the work, clean it well, then rehearse the soldering process before attempting to solder.. the rehearsing will allow you to do it right..

Mars
" I know quite certainly that I myself have no special talent. Curiosity, Obsession and dogged endurance, combined with self-criticism, have brought me to my knowledge and understanding "

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theskaz
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Re: From Reflux to Pot Still (Modular)

Post by theskaz »

can propane heat SS enough for solder to flow? that is the only reason I'm using MAPP gas about 6-8" away (~2 in away from the tip of the flame). Ill get the ends milled down. I think i can get my stepper bit in there.
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Re: From Reflux to Pot Still (Modular)

Post by StillerBoy »

Propane will heat ss will no issue.. stainless steel will heat up quicker than the copper will.. went doing ss to ss, you actually need very little heat or at least less heat than working with copper..

I have attached a picture of what I have been stating.. looking at the constructed piece.. no discolouration, which mean even heat applied.. the piece was given a quick clean up with the tools shown.. you can see the ss ferrules soldered plus some joints.. this was all done in step with no water use for control.. by step I mean, the 1.5" ferrule was solder to a 1.5" length of pipe first, then solder to the 45 elbow and so on.. all done using proper control of heat application using propane and a fine tip ..

Mars
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" I know quite certainly that I myself have no special talent. Curiosity, Obsession and dogged endurance, combined with self-criticism, have brought me to my knowledge and understanding "

– Albert Einstein
theskaz
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Re: From Reflux to Pot Still (Modular)

Post by theskaz »

I am ready to try a leak test/vinegar run. here are some more pics. Couple of notes:

I had a quite a bit of leaks on the shotgun condenser, but after reflowing solder 3-4 times, I got it sealed. I hope it holds :/
the SS ferrules were a PITA to get solder to flow in between the materials, instead of bubbling over and spilling out. Apparently i completely forgot to solder one at all.
I added the 4" ferrule to the keg using a brazing rod. that was fun.....
finally, I put the ball valve on the wrong side...
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Re: From Reflux to Pot Still (Modular)

Post by StillerBoy »

Did you a leak at the home make tee..

Mars
" I know quite certainly that I myself have no special talent. Curiosity, Obsession and dogged endurance, combined with self-criticism, have brought me to my knowledge and understanding "

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Re: From Reflux to Pot Still (Modular)

Post by theskaz »

its still warming up.... 175F and counting, but yeah, if i had to guess what will leak, that would be it.
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Re: From Reflux to Pot Still (Modular)

Post by theskaz »

no leaks to the thumper yet, and its starting to make noise.
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Re: From Reflux to Pot Still (Modular)

Post by theskaz »

ok, so never heard a thumper in real life. is it supposed to sound like a ball bearing hitting the bottom of the keg?
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Re: From Reflux to Pot Still (Modular)

Post by ShineonCrazyDiamond »

theskaz wrote:ok, so never heard a thumper in real life. is it supposed to sound like a ball bearing hitting the bottom of the keg?
Lol. Welcome to the club. Do the jig before the worm starts pissing.
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Re: From Reflux to Pot Still (Modular)

Post by theskaz »

4" ferrule is leaking... ran out of brazing rod
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Re: From Reflux to Pot Still (Modular)

Post by corene1 »

Just for reference. A good way to do an initial pressure test is to assemble the still and attach a shop vac at the condenser outlet to pressure up the still. Then use a spray bottle and some soapy water to look for leaks. . Saves a lot of heating and cooling.
theskaz
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Re: From Reflux to Pot Still (Modular)

Post by theskaz »

Oh, thats genius. When i get the fill pprt fixed, ill do that. Thanks for the tip
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Re: From Reflux to Pot Still (Modular)

Post by theskaz »

did a pressure test, and all looks well (after fixing the fill port). heating up again. that thumper is seriously loud. I can hear it in my toddler's room. i have holes drilled into the main pipe for diffusion, but jeeez.
Last edited by theskaz on Thu Dec 27, 2018 3:18 pm, edited 1 time in total.
theskaz
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Re: From Reflux to Pot Still (Modular)

Post by theskaz »

Ok, cleaning run done. The port that the heating element started leaking. i think the pressure build up to push through the thumper was enough to cause it to go. fixed that, and ran it for a couple hours with no problem. my homemade Tee didnt leak!! (nor did the condenser). whipping up a sac run soon. also, you will notice a couple of wires coming off the still. they are for this:
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but more on that later.
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Re: From Reflux to Pot Still (Modular)

Post by theskaz »

I had another thought. I currently dont use a recirculating method for the water going through the condenser. since I have an eherms brew setup, I thought I could use that. I whipped together a small setup to recirculate the water, and rerand the vinegar water.
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Re: From Reflux to Pot Still (Modular)

Post by Samyguy »

that thumper probably sounds like water hammer in a steam pipe
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