2" DEPHLEGMATOR REFLUX CONDENSER BUILD

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Jason1979
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2" DEPHLEGMATOR REFLUX CONDENSER BUILD

Post by Jason1979 »

Hi all

I'm building a 2 inch (width) still for the first time and doing the build in sections, I'v practiced on a parrot and thats looking great, but next on my list is a 6 inch long dephlegmator reflux condenser.

The part I'm not sure about is the length? is 6 inch in length internal tubes ok? and how many 15mm tubes to fit it with? 5 or 6 or even (at a push) 7?

If I make it too small I'll have to make a bigger one at some point, if it's too big I can just turn the water flow down or off, correct?

Here is a pdf idea/plan of what I'm thinking. Can anyone let me know there thoughts.

Thanks for you time
Attachments
2 Inch Dephlegmator.pdf
My 2" reflux dephlegmator idea
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still_stirrin
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Re: 2" DEPHLEGMATOR REFLUX CONDENSER BUILD

Post by still_stirrin »

For a 2” shell that is 6” long, I would think 4 of the 15mm vapor tubes would be adequate. With 5 or 6 vapor tubes, the vapor velocity will be slower and the condenser section will be very, very effictive at condensing the vapors. As a result, you’ll get a high reflux ratio which may be difficult to run with a fast throughput (it’ll produce high purity at a slower rate of production because more of the vapor is returning down the column).

Now, you could make the condenser section shorter with the increased number of vapor tubes and it will work for lower reflux ratio (lower purity) runs because of the shorter dwell time for the vapors as they pass through the condenser. In other words, the vapors will not fully condense in the shorter condenser section. But again, dwell time due to the increase in vapor tube quantity and resulting slower vapor speed will improve the condensing power of the condenser. But due to the shorter water jacket path, you’ll need to keep the water flow rate higher for knockdown.

But, the dephlagmator is a tricky condenser to make for a 2” column...mind you, it is possible to do. And the larger diameter vapor tubes makes it challenging to make and solder the baffle plates. So, 4 x 6” vapor tubes would probably be easier to make and operate in a 2” diameter condenser than 5 or more tubes.

Good luck with your build.
ss
My LM/VM & Potstill: My build thread
My Cadco hotplate modification thread: Hotplate Build
My stock pot gin still: stock pot potstill
My 5-grain Bourbon recipe: Special K
Jason1979
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Re: 2" DEPHLEGMATOR REFLUX CONDENSER BUILD

Post by Jason1979 »

Hi ss

Thanks for the help on this..food for thought for the weekend for sure.
I really want to go the 5x 15mm tube route as I do like a challenge on the build front. I'm still waiting on my 3mm copper plate to arrive in the post so have some time to decide, but I thought having 4 tubes would be more restrictive in general. So would an inbetween work say 5x 15mm and a length of 5" be a good allrounder?
Jason1979
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Re: 2" DEPHLEGMATOR REFLUX CONDENSER BUILD

Post by Jason1979 »

Ah just seen on my cctv the 3 meters of 54mm copper pipe being delivered... Excellent, now would the best way to cut pipe the large (well 2") be to use a miter saw or a large version the normal plumbers pipe cutter (thin wheel that cut as it rotates) not sure if the latter deforms the end of the pipe to much?
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still_stirrin
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Re: 2" DEPHLEGMATOR REFLUX CONDENSER BUILD

Post by still_stirrin »

You don't know how to cut 2" copper pipe?

Do you know how to solder 2" copper? My preference is a mapp gas torch...it's hotter than propane.

How about drilling the pipe holes in the baffle plates? I recommend a "stepped bit".

It seems that besides design, you've got some "learning" to do before your build.

But, to give you some insight that experience brings, plumbers pipe cutters will often create a ridge around the pipe (on the inside) when the cutter wheel cold works the cut joint. That cold working is what creates the cut, however.

A hacksaw can be used to cut the large diameter pipe. But it will leave a rough edge that will have to be filed smooth. Hacksaw cuts are difficult to keep square too.

A cut wheel on your compound miter saw will make good clean cuts though. You should go slow when advancing the saw through the metal.

Which ever method you use, you'll need to clean the edges and sand with emory cloth, especially if it is a "to be soldered" joint. Those micro scratches give the solder something to stick its "teeth" into.
ss
My LM/VM & Potstill: My build thread
My Cadco hotplate modification thread: Hotplate Build
My stock pot gin still: stock pot potstill
My 5-grain Bourbon recipe: Special K
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Yummyrum
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Re: 2" DEPHLEGMATOR REFLUX CONDENSER BUILD

Post by Yummyrum »

Easy way to mark pipe is to wrap a sheet of paper around it . When the paper is straight so will the line be . Then draw around the pipe with a perminant marker where the paper edge is . Remove paper and you have a perfectly straight cutting line .

I’ve always used a hacksaw . Cut a small groove say 1/2” long . Rotate the pipe a bit and cut a it more . Keep going in small increments following the line all around .
Ow there will be a guide groove cut into the pipe and you can use it to guide the hacksaw to cut off the pipe leaving a perfectly parallel :thumbup: cut .

Regarding the Deflag . I made a 2” long 2” diameter once with 5 x 3/8” pipes . It was totally useless above about 1kw .
I would have to run water flat chat through it and use power control to adjust output flow. It just couldn’t handle the power I was used to running that column on in VM mode .

I would definitely go 6 “ with 5x 1/2” if using 2kw or more . Sure its going to be fiddly to adjust . Show me deflag thats not .
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Saltbush Bill
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Re: 2" DEPHLEGMATOR REFLUX CONDENSER BUILD

Post by Saltbush Bill »

It will be a pain in the arse to build and to use in my opinion...go bigger diameter if you can.
Jason1979
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Re: 2" DEPHLEGMATOR REFLUX CONDENSER BUILD

Post by Jason1979 »

Thanks for all the feedback on my first design idea I posted, but I now have a version 2.0. What do you guys think of this?

I'm going the modular route so I can change it to a pot still as this build will be my first ever build and even running a still, I thought this style would be better for me as a learning curve.

J
Attachments
CCMV Still v5.pdf
Design 2.0
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still_stirrin
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Re: 2" DEPHLEGMATOR REFLUX CONDENSER BUILD

Post by still_stirrin »

For your potstill configuration, remove the reflux condenser and put a cap on the top. Then, it's a potstill.

The CCVM looks good.

But, I always run my gin still in potstill configuration. I make gin with clean neutral, typically stripped with the potstill then refluxed through the VM reflux still. Then, macerate and run the gin through the gin still, a small potstill, where I make gin 2 or 3 liters at a time.

If you put the offset gin basket between the column/riser and the shotgun product condenser, it will work just fine. But I doubt you'll do a "one and done" making (good) gin.
ss
My LM/VM & Potstill: My build thread
My Cadco hotplate modification thread: Hotplate Build
My stock pot gin still: stock pot potstill
My 5-grain Bourbon recipe: Special K
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