Stripping Keg Boiler with Thumper Build

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Re: Stripping Keg Boiler with Thumper Build

Post by BlueSasquatch »

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Less modular, requires more 2" pipe and fittings, but moves the pre-heat above the boiler keg for gravity drain, and eliminates a welded keg connection.

Hmmm
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Re: Stripping Keg Boiler with Thumper Build

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BlueSasquatch wrote: Fri Dec 11, 2020 8:07 am
... but it'll be stainless, would this kill any efficiency of this design?
Yep.
.
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Re: Stripping Keg Boiler with Thumper Build

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Image

Still need to Solder but dry-fitting the Brutal Trombone Condenser, quite happy with it. Going to drill two holes in some brass as spacers/reinforcement for the water line unions, bit of flex there that I think could be addressed easily.

Also, I picked up a couple water-pumps that we had used for a water-cooled computer a decade or so ago, they are "Johnson Pump Heavy Duty Centrifugal, 12 volt, 6.2 gpm. I'm wondering if I am going to need to put a ball-valve on the water line to slow the flow of water? My thoughts were on the out-bound, after the union, before a hose-barb attachment?

Acquired two kegs for the Boiler and Thumper, need to pick up another for the pre-heat, may get a 4th for a Keggle, not quite sure yet, no rush on them, just waiting for a good deal.

Image

Now I'm not a big Gin guy, but the wife is, and I know one can simply spirit run some neutral with the botanical in the boiler, Odin's Easy Gin and all. However I'm always tweaking and modifying things, thinking that a gin basket with 2" ferrule connections, would make it quite easy in my diagram above, to fit in a number of locations; Between Boiler and Thumper, Between Thumper and Pre-heat, Between Pre-heat and Condenser. Could the basket be as simple as a spool-piece, with a screen or two? Ran horizontally?

Kegs are getting modified next month, contemplating if having a sight-glass would be worth it on the boiler? None of the open-atmosphere ones, just a small like 1/2" threaded fitting on the bottom and top (side) of the boiler, put in two 90s and some glass between them. See those often enough on process tanks in the ethanol industry, should work fine, just not 100% certain it's needed. . .I mean the element won't be but a handful of inches off the bottom, if you're gonna be close to running dry, just use a smaller still? Or do more stripping runs.

Also browsing builds has me 2nd guessing my boiler keg, seems it's popular to flip them upside down for a 2" drain on the bottom and a new 4" or larger top-connection. This would allow you to make a fatter column in the future if need be, and make it easier to reach-inside if need be, cleaning, etc.
But It's also a good bit more $$ to buy the larger ferrule and then the reducer. Not sure I will need more than 2" column? Figure if I want to go bigger than that, I'd just get a bigger boiler as well and that's starting to leave home-brew territory. And then for ease of cleaning, unless one puts a bunch of solids in their boiler, how much of an opening do you need for a hose? Easier fill too I suppose, but my current copper boiler gets a light rinse and works great, I haven't found a need for aggressive cleaning that would warrant a larger opening?


Twisted Brick, thanks for that informative table, I will be looking into a 2" copper pass-through on the pre-heat, avoiding stainless all together, sadly.
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Re: Stripping Keg Boiler with Thumper Build

Post by The Baker »

You could think about a tee fitting (instead of the right angle bend) in the exit from the boiler and maybe the thumper too.
With a removable cap at the top.
Then you can 'shoot' anything you want to shoot, and only turn off the heat for a couple of minutes.
Or if you use a modular fitting there you can fit a reflux head if you want.

Like your really clear diagrams.

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Re: Stripping Keg Boiler with Thumper Build

Post by Chauncey »

The Baker wrote: Fri Jan 29, 2021 12:57 am You could think about a tee fitting (instead of the right angle bend) in the exit from the boiler and maybe the thumper too.
With a removable cap at the top.
Then you can 'shoot' anything you want to shoot, and only turn off the heat for a couple of minutes.
Or if you use a modular fitting there you can fit a reflux head if you want.

Geoff
Half of the 90* elbows i ever use i wish i used tees woth a cap on one end for. Adds thermo and other versatility. Unless its in a position to create pooling.
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Re: Stripping Keg Boiler with Thumper Build

Post by BlueSasquatch »

Good food for thought fellas, I was making it with pot-still in mind, It's what I currently have and what my preference is, but I also was certain I wouldn't be working on a gin-basket either and here we are. I'll think some on the Tees rather than 90s, The cost would be similar, until you do the ferrules and blind flange on the top of each one. Could also solder a cap until the time came to utilize. I also like the idea of easy-fill with the Tee.

For the gin basket, I know the most simple way would be a standard basket in the riser, as a spool piece, below the 90 on the boiler. But this would require a second blank-spool piece for the thumper, for matching elevations of the horizontal pieces. Not a huge deal, but an added cost.

Still thinking on a horizontal spool piece, as being more flexible in the location it could go. Would be interesting to see what flavors get pulled and their strengths, at which spots along the process.

I know there are other ways to make gin but the infusion is interesting enough that I'd like to give it a shot with fruit, coffee, nuts, etc. Almond Coconut 'moonshine' without needing to soak them in the finished product. Dunno, worth trying out.
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Re: Stripping Keg Boiler with Thumper Build

Post by BlueSasquatch »

The Baker wrote: Fri Jan 29, 2021 12:58 am

Like your really clear diagrams.

Geoff
I appreciate that! Engineer by trade, if the contractor has questions then you didn't draw it well enough! More or less. Anyways what's not shown yet is some sort of pressure relief or 2nd small liebig for the pre-heat keg.
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Re: Stripping Keg Boiler with Thumper Build

Post by ezlle71 »

You can trim a 1/4 inch off alot of those fittings on the trombone like brutal and I did and it tightens up the whole package. Sure not mandatory though. I like the 180° bend on the 1/2 inch at the end, looks cool.
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Re: Stripping Keg Boiler with Thumper Build

Post by BlueSasquatch »

ezlle71 wrote: Fri Jan 29, 2021 7:13 am You can trim a 1/4 inch off alot of those fittings on the trombone like brutal and I did and it tightens up the whole package. Sure not mandatory though. I like the 180° bend on the 1/2 inch at the end, looks cool.
I did not know he did that, but it makes sense, I did make the 90s for the 1/2 in the reducing tees be FTG I think its called, rather than the CxC so that it could fit inside the fitting, for a neater package. Also required for that 180 degree bend to work well. Still looks like it has a bit of an angle to it, not that it matters for its function. Soldering it may tighten that up. the 1/2" through pipe is actually two pieces right now, did not grab a long enough piece at the store.

It's overall pretty compact, quite heavy too, with water it will weigh a good bit, going to have to make some supports for it, most likely rotate the incoming vapor pipe by 90 degrees, so that the condenser comes towards me, to help keep the footprint compact for the whole set-up, rather than extended further off to the right. If that makes sense, my diagram shows it that way because it is a 2D drawing.
15" is the large jacket length, 24" for the vapor tube. I almost pushed it out for the jacket to be 24" since I had to buy that length in the first place, but the whole idea is to be compact.
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Re: Stripping Keg Boiler with Thumper Build

Post by ezlle71 »

If you go back and look at Brutal's thread you'll see I built mine with the outer jacket 18" and the vapor tube 24". I've never had trouble with needing support, just hangs off the 1" union i used to make everything modular. Hell, I even use it almost vertical on my 3" flute. Make sure you use some automotive 5/8" heater hose for the coolant discharge line. It will get HOT!
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Re: Stripping Keg Boiler with Thumper Build

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ezlle71 wrote: Fri Jan 29, 2021 8:04 am If you go back and look at Brutal's thread you'll see I built mine with the outer jacket 18" and the vapor tube 24". I've never had trouble with needing support, just hangs off the 1" union i used to make everything modular. Hell, I even use it almost vertical on my 3" flute. Make sure you use some automotive 5/8" heater hose for the coolant discharge line. It will get HOT!
What's your flowrate through yours? I figure mine will be mostly horizontal until the pre-heat keg, in which case it will be much more vertical. I've got a car condenser I pulled from my childhood Lincoln, planning on routing the discharge from the trombone, through this before back to a 55 gallon barrel.

I ran my flake-stand condenser for 12 hours, it doesn't have a great water-setup so I just siphon water into it, to overflow into the 55 gal drum, it was about 45 gallons full by the time I was done with my 12 hour batches, So I am suspecting this will be enough volume 90% of the time I run the keg still.
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Re: Stripping Keg Boiler with Thumper Build

Post by ezlle71 »

I did a spirit run with 12.5 gallon of low wines on my flute and i believe i used 55-60 gallon of water. About 4 hours runtime. About a quart a min or water
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Re: Stripping Keg Boiler with Thumper Build

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ezlle71 wrote: Fri Jan 29, 2021 8:52 am I did a spirit run with 12.5 gallon of low wines on my flute and i believe i used 55-60 gallon of water. About 4 hours runtime. About a quart a min or water
0.25 gal/min is a good bit slower than my pump at 6.5 gpm, I think I need a valve to throttle this.
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Re: Stripping Keg Boiler with Thumper Build

Post by BlueSasquatch »

Image

Nabbed the idea from a chap online who made nearly the same thing, in a vertical orientation. He also had a sight-glass installed, well ferrule with a clear blind flange? Would possibly follow suit, seems like there could be potential for issues with it horizontally.
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Re: Stripping Keg Boiler with Thumper Build

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BlueSasquatch wrote: Thu Jan 28, 2021 8:15 am
Twisted Brick, thanks for that informative table, I will be looking into a 2" copper pass-through on the pre-heat, avoiding stainless all together, sadly.
You're welcome. Every time I see that table I cringe knowing distilling shops are selling shotguns with tiny vapor tubes welded up out of stainless to save a buck.

Kudos to you for the thought you are putting into this build and the excellent graphics. I wish I knew more about how my keg thumper behaves but its still new for me. I do know that I once hooked my (copper) wort chiller up to my condenser-out during a strip run, and put it in a keggle of water to see how much heat transfer ensued. It seemed like the transfer was more efficient when I agitated the chiller. I wonder how much this might affect a 1" tube vs 3/8", given laminar flow.
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Re: Stripping Keg Boiler with Thumper Build

Post by BlueSasquatch »

Twisted Brick wrote: Fri Jan 29, 2021 11:06 am
BlueSasquatch wrote: Thu Jan 28, 2021 8:15 am
Twisted Brick, thanks for that informative table, I will be looking into a 2" copper pass-through on the pre-heat, avoiding stainless all together, sadly.
You're welcome. Every time I see that table I cringe knowing distilling shops are selling shotguns with tiny vapor tubes welded up out of stainless to save a buck.

Kudos to you for the thought you are putting into this build and the excellent graphics. I wish I knew more about how my keg thumper behaves but its still new for me. I do know that I once hooked my (copper) wort chiller up to my condenser-out during a strip run, and put it in a keggle of water to see how much heat transfer ensued. It seemed like the transfer was more efficient when I agitated the chiller. I wonder how much this might affect a 1" tube vs 3/8", given laminar flow.
I'm planning on a wire soldered/wrapped around my vapor tube for the short bit that it's in the jacket, to encourage some turbulence with the water, but it's hard to see what the effect would be without making two identical ones and taking measurements. My flake-stand usually gets pretty damn warm, I don't constantly feed a flow of water to it, its more like a batch. It's not ideal but it was my first still, safe to say I know 100% of the water "gets used" before I cycle in the next batch.
Same thing with some shotguns are the intermediate plates that force the water to move, that or create dead-pockets, depends on your flow rate.
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Re: Stripping Keg Boiler with Thumper Build

Post by BlueSasquatch »

Not mine, image used as inspiration for the horizontal gin-ball idea

Image

As much as I want a Deep-Sea Diver helmet, the earlier posters made a good point about replacing my 90 degree elbows with Tees, doing this would allow me to drop in a basket in the same combination of spots as my Horizontal idea, except that they would now be vertical as well, which is more-standard and ideal I suppose.

However there does come an increase in fitting cost and then the cost to close-off the un-used Tee portion. Cost isn't the main factor on this build but lets be honest, it is always a factor.

To run with the Horizontal Gin Basket idea, I could replace the sphere contraption with just a Tee, facing up-ward, have a threaded connection or a sanitary ferrule, and drop in a basket of botanicals. No low-spot then, but a much smaller area as well.
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Re: Stripping Keg Boiler with Thumper Build

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BlueSasquatch wrote: Fri Jan 29, 2021 6:42 am
The Baker wrote: Fri Jan 29, 2021 12:58 am

Like your really clear diagrams.

Geoff
I appreciate that! Engineer by trade, if the contractor has questions then you didn't draw it well enough! More or less. Anyways what's not shown yet is some sort of pressure relief or 2nd small liebig for the pre-heat keg.
A manometer is good.
Some use a little condenser for the pre-heat keg. (Which is something I will get done one day, the pre-heat that is).
Would it be practical to just connect the top of the pre-heater into the liebig arm from the boiler (and/ or the thumper)
thus saving having to have an extra condenser? With all its plumbing...
Maybe?
The diagrams... I have seen a lot that I am sure are very well done but I am not sure what the hell they are about.

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Re: Stripping Keg Boiler with Thumper Build

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The Baker wrote: Fri Jan 29, 2021 7:02 pm A manometer is good.
Some use a little condenser for the pre-heat keg. (Which is something I will get done one day, the pre-heat that is).
Would it be practical to just connect the top of the pre-heater into the liebig arm from the boiler (and/ or the thumper)
thus saving having to have an extra condenser? With all its plumbing...
Maybe?
Geoff
I had that thought earlier in this build, but it was mentioned that it could affect the output reading enough to not truly know if the main still was finished or not, the output reading would be hard to determine close enough. But I agree that just tossing another condenser on the pre-heat, with the additional plumbing needed seems like a complex/overkill resolution, to a problem that I would rather have a simple solution to. I suppose if you have multiple pieces of equipment, it's not a big deal to attach another condenser to, but starting from scratch its quite the extra step. I may just end up with a shorter Liebig on it, or some connector to my copper flake stand.

Also depending on how/where you connect you could end up with vapors pushing back into the pre-heat keg.
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Re: Stripping Keg Boiler with Thumper Build

Post by The Baker »

BlueSasquatch wrote: Mon Feb 01, 2021 6:48 am
The Baker wrote: Fri Jan 29, 2021 7:02 pm A manometer is good.
Some use a little condenser for the pre-heat keg. (Which is something I will get done one day, the pre-heat that is).
Would it be practical to just connect the top of the pre-heater into the liebig arm from the boiler (and/ or the thumper)
thus saving having to have an extra condenser? With all its plumbing...
Maybe?
Geoff
I had that thought earlier in this build, but it was mentioned that it could affect the output reading enough to not truly know if the main still was finished or not, the output reading would be hard to determine close enough. But I agree that just tossing another condenser on the pre-heat, with the additional plumbing needed seems like a complex/overkill resolution, to a problem that I would rather have a simple solution to. I suppose if you have multiple pieces of equipment, it's not a big deal to attach another condenser to, but starting from scratch its quite the extra step. I may just end up with a shorter Liebig on it, or some connector to my copper flake stand.

Also depending on how/where you connect you could end up with vapors pushing back into the pre-heat keg.
Hadn't thought of back pressure; would the fact that the liebig is open to the atmosphere preclude that??


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Re: Stripping Keg Boiler with Thumper Build

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The Baker wrote: Mon Feb 01, 2021 7:08 am
Hadn't thought of back pressure; would the fact that the liebig is open to the atmosphere preclude that??
Geoff
If it's easier for the vapor from the boiler to push into the pre-heat, rather than to reduce and go through the condenser, it would. I don't think there would be pressure, due to the condenser being open to the atmosphere, well not a ton of pressure. Anytime you run a still, there is SOME pressure, it's what forces the vapor through the condenser in the first place.

So I just mean that you could end up charging your pre-heat with vapors from the main boiler, if they were connected before the condenser, without a check valve.
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Re: Stripping Keg Boiler with Thumper Build

Post by BlueSasquatch »

Image

Image

The cost of making every 90 into a tee is to great for me to hop on board with it, but having one that is interchangeable with the 90s, works out quite nice. Found a Gin-Basket off a Tee DIY on youtube which was in-line with what I was thinking about.

Vapor infusion in each configuration may yield different results. Now Configuration 1 & 2 and then 3 & 4 do not have huge differences, except that any condensation created from the botanticals, will cause the liquid to drip back down into whatever it is above.


I still need to figure out a Condenser option for the Pre-heat, Tempted to look at this 2'0" 3/4" radiator fin "air cooled" route, just because the whole thing is something like $25 which is fairly cheap. That or I guess make a traditional Liebig, but the Trombone was made to steer me clear of a 4'0" liebig.

The drain from the Pre- to the boiler also will need some work, if I'm to put these kegs in a row like this, the drain will need to route around the thumper. Yet if I am going modular and have the option to not use a thumper, the pre-heat moves closer, and the drain line will need a spool piece to remove for this.

Also had planned on making a cart to hold all this, with supports for the pre-heat, up in the air like that, maybe for the condenser as well. But when not using certain kegs, it makes a universal cart/supports a bit trickier.
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Re: Stripping Keg Boiler with Thumper Build

Post by The Baker »

BlueSasquatch wrote: Mon Feb 01, 2021 7:37 am
The Baker wrote: Mon Feb 01, 2021 7:08 am
Hadn't thought of back pressure; would the fact that the liebig is open to the atmosphere preclude that??
Geoff
If it's easier for the vapor from the boiler to push into the pre-heat, rather than to reduce and go through the condenser, it would. I don't think there would be pressure, due to the condenser being open to the atmosphere, well not a ton of pressure. Anytime you run a still, there is SOME pressure, it's what forces the vapor through the condenser in the first place.

So I just mean that you could end up charging your pre-heat with vapors from the main boiler, if they were connected before the condenser, without a check valve.
So if a little vapour found its way into the top of the pre-heater from the (common) lyne arm (from the boiler) it should virtually have no effect, it would just be there, just equalizing the (minimal anyway) pressure in the system right there.
In a cool pre-heater (at the start of pre-heating) there would be perhaps a tiny amount of condensation which would have minimal effect
(tiny because the vapour would only be at and above the surface of the liquid, it's just sitting there, there is no movement of the vapour like in a condenser).
And any vapour forming in the pre-heater if it should get hot enough (which would take some time and may not happen)
would travel along the common tube (lyne arm?) to the condenser?

It seems to me there is no need for a check valve, and no need for a separate condenser to cover the possibility the pre-heater may get hot enough to generate vapour. (Which of course would be a GOOD situation, using waste heat to distil.)

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Re: Stripping Keg Boiler with Thumper Build

Post by BlueSasquatch »

The Baker wrote: Mon Feb 01, 2021 3:29 pm
So if a little vapour found its way into the top of the pre-heater from the (common) lyne arm (from the boiler) it should virtually have no effect, it would just be there, just equalizing the (minimal anyway) pressure in the system right there.
In a cool pre-heater (at the start of pre-heating) there would be perhaps a tiny amount of condensation which would have minimal effect
(tiny because the vapour would only be at and above the surface of the liquid, it's just sitting there, there is no movement of the vapour like in a condenser).
And any vapour forming in the pre-heater if it should get hot enough (which would take some time and may not happen)
would travel along the common tube (lyne arm?) to the condenser?

It seems to me there is no need for a check valve, and no need for a separate condenser to cover the possibility the pre-heater may get hot enough to generate vapour. (Which of course would be a GOOD situation, using waste heat to distil.)

Geoff
True, it won't harm anything if the pre-heat gets charged with vapor, but it does smear the whole run. Fine for stripping, less fine for spirit runs. Initially this was just for stripping but with the addition of a Gin Basket, it becomes a spirit run as well, atleast for Gin.

In theory if the pre-heat could get hot enough to actually start to produce, you would have a hard time telling between the tails of your main and the heads of your pre-heat, without thermometers I suppose you could start to boil water in the main and muddle your end result even more? I'm all for no-seperate condenser on the pre-heat, just trying to think it out all the way, I plan on insulating all the kegs, but not the pretty copper, so I do think I will have some nice heat in the end.

I am a little curious if the boiler will have enough heat to push the alcohol through the thumper and pre-heat, into the condenser? I've never used a thumper before but at some point, all your alcohol (or most of it) gets pushed from the boiler, into the thumper, and then the thumper heats up to the vapor point and starts pushing alcohol into the condenser, I follow the concept.

But when using a thumper, do you end up with more alcohol left behind, than if you didn't use a thumper? Let me make some easy-math here, if you have 10% alcohol in the boiler and no thumper, you can pull lets say 8% out, leaving 2% behind. If you add a thumper with water, do you not end up with say 2% left in the boiler and 1% left in the thumper? Or do you push the boiler to 0% and that remaining 2% is left in the thumper?

Also some people say they put wash in the thumper? Wouldn't this defeat the double distillation of a thumper, since your vapors from the thumper are having their 1st run, while the boiler vapors are on their "second" ? Using Low-Wines makes some sense, but they would need to be from the same mash bill?
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Re: Stripping Keg Boiler with Thumper Build

Post by The Baker »

Hi, Blue.

You are getting a bit technical for me.
Are you maybe overthinking it here?
I will hold to what I said (in the knowledge I could be wrong);
So little would happen in the pre-heater
(as far as vapour from the main boiler is concerned, and before the pre-heating liquid is hot enough to vapourize)
that I would ignore the possibility of smearing then.
And one of the (few?) places a thermometer would be informative is on the pre-heater.
If you are concerned that vapour from there would be a problem,
transfer the contents to the boiler before it is hot enough to vapourize.
Quick and simple. And having the pre-heater BIG enough is important.

You said, 'I am a little curious if the boiler will have enough heat to push the alcohol through the thumper and pre-heat'.
I am not discussing the thumper anyway, just because it is a different topic;
and there is no difficulty 'pushing through the pre-heater', it is simply heated via the pipe-from-the-boiler
passing THROUGH the pre-heater. Intact.

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Re: Stripping Keg Boiler with Thumper Build

Post by Yummyrum »

Personally I think you are wasting your time thinking about a Gin basket in this setup .

Gin really needs a nice clean neutral for its base .
Thumper setups are quite ideal for making flavoured spirit like Rum or Whiskey . They won’t clean up a wash enough to make it suitable fir a good Gin base .

Now even if you just chose to insert the basket during the hearts of hearts part of the run , you would need to be tasting on the fly to pick the clean part of the run to insert the basket.
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Re: Stripping Keg Boiler with Thumper Build

Post by BlueSasquatch »

The Baker wrote: Wed Feb 03, 2021 8:01 pm Hi, Blue.

You are getting a bit technical for me.
Are you maybe overthinking it here?
I will hold to what I said (in the knowledge I could be wrong);
So little would happen in the pre-heater
(as far as vapour from the main boiler is concerned, and before the pre-heating liquid is hot enough to vapourize)
that I would ignore the possibility of smearing then.
And one of the (few?) places a thermometer would be informative is on the pre-heater.
If you are concerned that vapour from there would be a problem,
transfer the contents to the boiler before it is hot enough to vapourize.
Quick and simple. And having the pre-heater BIG enough is important.

You said, 'I am a little curious if the boiler will have enough heat to push the alcohol through the thumper and pre-heat'.
I am not discussing the thumper anyway, just because it is a different topic;
and there is no difficulty 'pushing through the pre-heater', it is simply heated via the pipe-from-the-boiler
passing THROUGH the pre-heater. Intact.

Geoff
More like thinking out loud than getting technical on my part. Thermometer on whatever attachment I make for the top of the pre-heat would probably be interesting information to have, I'll likely add one there.


Yummyrum wrote: Thu Feb 04, 2021 3:11 am Personally I think you are wasting your time thinking about a Gin basket in this setup .

Gin really needs a nice clean neutral for its base .
Thumper setups are quite ideal for making flavoured spirit like Rum or Whiskey . They won’t clean up a wash enough to make it suitable fir a good Gin base .

Now even if you just chose to insert the basket during the hearts of hearts part of the run , you would need to be tasting on the fly to pick the clean part of the run to insert the basket.
Initial thought was a stripping system, with the spirit run in the smaller all-copper pot for better flavor and end-result. But upon the time and money investment into this keg set-up, I am wondering if it will be able to strip and then spirit run, similar end-product as my copper pot. The lack of copper is a slight concern but plenty of people run keg systems just fine.

The Gin basket would be in-use during the 2nd pass through (spirit run) not the 1st pass. The end result being a 4x distilled gin?
Neutral Stripping run with thumper = 2x distilled neutral
Neutral Spirit run with thumper and gin basket = 4x distilled gin?
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Re: Stripping Keg Boiler with Thumper Build

Post by BlueSasquatch »

Working on layout, to nail down the drains.

Being Modular is great, but making having a layout to match a bit of a trickier endeavor, if I line everything up in a Row, it's like a 7-8 foot long table, would rather be more compact than that. The result so far is a square more or less. However the height of the trombone condenser is putting a wrench in the gears, need to work out a better method. (Probably just a small individual platform for the pre-heat to sit on.

Image

And in 3D, you can see the trombone condenser height puts it in a poor spot at the moment. I will have wheels on the rig, just not modeled yet.

Image

I've pulled my old Car Condenser to use with a box fan to cool my out-going water from the trombone condenser, and then the small 12v water-pump to mount somewhere near the front. This ideally flex-tube routes to a 55 gallon drum that I fill or maybe rain-water if I have a cover or filter of sorts. I don't have a 100% dedicated spot in the shop for this just yet, perhaps eventually I'll hard-pipe some water lines out to the drum, and just make sure to drain them between uses.
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Re: Stripping Keg Boiler with Thumper Build

Post by BlueSasquatch »

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Re: Stripping Keg Boiler with Thumper Build

Post by still_stirrin »

I can hardly wait until you actually start building. That’s when the “real Q&A” will begin.

But, I am impressed with your modeling skills and toolset. A great potential there...
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