Build question #1

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Choady
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Build question #1

Post by Choady » Thu Mar 26, 2020 1:07 pm

I have a question regarding my liebig..any positive feedback is much appreciated.
I want to use a 15.5 keg with a 3.5 ft piece of 2" copper for the tower. Then a 90° to a 1.5ft of 2" copper for the lyne arm. Finally, a 90°to a 2"-1" reducer with 4 ft of 1" copper pipe where my liebig will be. Im wanting to build the liebig with 2" pvc around the 1" copper @ 2-3 ft. And heat using firewood.
My question is regarding the liebig...will it be sufficient enough to cool the product using a water hose temp unknown?
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Durhommer
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Re: Build question #1

Post by Durhommer » Thu Mar 26, 2020 1:42 pm

If you can work copper enough to make that try an hd Google search for shotgun condenser build if you have 2" and.5" copper get a 2" to.5" reducer or two you should be in business
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Durhommer
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Re: Build question #1

Post by Durhommer » Thu Mar 26, 2020 1:44 pm

The reason I suggest shotgun is it won't take up as much space as a long a$$ liebig
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acfixer69
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Re: Build question #1

Post by acfixer69 » Thu Mar 26, 2020 1:50 pm

Product condenser is sized to the heat input so with that said a PVC outer shell will work but sealing to the copper can be a bit@$. Very leak prone.

The Baker
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Re: Build question #1

Post by The Baker » Thu Mar 26, 2020 2:17 pm

An outer of two inch is probably, ideally, too big.
I think one-and-a half inch would be better.
Something to do with the flow of the water and its cooling effect.
But listen to those with more knowledge about this than me.

Geoff

P.S. I turned my Liebig into a Davies condenser (my son-in-law hasn't soldered it up yet...)
An inner and an outer water tube with the vapour flowing through a middle tube. G.
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acfixer69
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Re: Build question #1

Post by acfixer69 » Thu Mar 26, 2020 2:52 pm

2" is a weight problem. Other then the heat transfer is the same.

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Twisted Brick
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Re: Build question #1

Post by Twisted Brick » Thu Mar 26, 2020 5:01 pm

acfixer69 wrote:
Thu Mar 26, 2020 1:50 pm
Product condenser is sized to the heat input so with that said a PVC outer shell will work but sealing to the copper can be a bit@$. Very leak prone.
+1

Adhesives bonding plastics to metals tend to degrade over time from the effects of thermal cycling. Dissimilar metals (and plastics) have different thermal expansion rates that can fight against each other during heat up and cool down.
Last edited by Twisted Brick on Thu Mar 26, 2020 10:47 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Choady
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Re: Build question #1

Post by Choady » Thu Mar 26, 2020 8:08 pm

Thank you all for the replies, much appreciated!
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Windswept
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Re: Build question #1

Post by Windswept » Fri Mar 27, 2020 7:58 am

just spitballing, but with a liebig, what would prevent you from leaving the top open and instead of sealing it to the inner pipe, just redirecting the water somewhere slightly lower down? This would remove the issues of thermal expansion differentials.
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OtisT
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Re: Build question #1

Post by OtisT » Fri Mar 27, 2020 9:29 am

Windswept wrote:
Fri Mar 27, 2020 7:58 am
just spitballing, but with a liebig, what would prevent you from leaving the top open and instead of sealing it to the inner pipe, just redirecting the water somewhere slightly lower down? This would remove the issues of thermal expansion differentials.
With an open top, tHe issue would still be applicable for the bottom joint. One issue with questionable joints and/or an open top is that any leaking or overflow could run down the outside of the condenser and pollute your collection. Some form of drip guard close to takeoff may be advisable to mitigate that risk.

One of the better copper vapor path to plastic outer shell solutions I saw was a rubber reducer that used adjustable pipe clamps. In my opinion, that would be better than an epoxy or similar glue that could fail from differing expansion rates. The rubber could handle the expansion/contraction of the copper and the adjustable pipe clamp can always be tightened more.

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Windswept
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Re: Build question #1

Post by Windswept » Fri Mar 27, 2020 10:05 am

OtisT wrote:
Fri Mar 27, 2020 9:29 am
Windswept wrote:
Fri Mar 27, 2020 7:58 am
just spitballing, but with a liebig, what would prevent you from leaving the top open and instead of sealing it to the inner pipe, just redirecting the water somewhere slightly lower down? This would remove the issues of thermal expansion differentials.
With an open top, tHe issue would still be applicable for the bottom joint. One issue with questionable joints and/or an open top is that any leaking or overflow could run down the outside of the condenser and pollute your collection. Some form of drip guard close to takeoff may be advisable to mitigate that risk.

One of the better copper vapor path to plastic outer shell solutions I saw was a rubber reducer that used adjustable pipe clamps. In my opinion, that would be better than an epoxy or similar glue that could fail from differing expansion rates. The rubber could handle the expansion/contraction of the copper and the adjustable pipe clamp can always be tightened more.

Otis
that makes complete sense
If I didn't learn the hard way, I wouldn't learn at all!

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