Counterflow Chiler
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Counterflow Chiler
I have a counter flow chiller I use for cooling my wort for brewing. It is bascially something I made out of 3/8" copper tube coiled up and inserted into a 5/8" rubber hose. Could I used this for my worm using hose water from my facuet for the outer cooling jacket. I know when brewing bring my wort from a boil down to 65 degrees I have to throttle the water pressure in the out jacket way down other wise it cools too much.
Re: Counterflow Chiler
It will work as long as it has a continuous downward pitch. No pooling.
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Re: Counterflow Chiler
Well it is certainly built that way but I can't see thought the outer hose. I use gravity from my brew kettle through chiller into fermenter.acfixer69 wrote:It will work as long as it has a continuous downward pitch. No pooling.
Last edited by acfixer69 on Thu Apr 23, 2020 11:46 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Counterflow Chiler
You don't need to see thru the hose as long as you no water is passing thru it.
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Re: Counterflow Chiler
So I summing I am using an a 8 gallon kettle and I want to make whiskey do I just need some type of lid with a hole, a tube riser going up off lid, and then one going from top of riser down to my counterflow chiller?
Re: Counterflow Chiler
For a pot still you will need a riser and a lyne arm to your condenser. Do a little research on pot still. There are thousand of build pics here.
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Re: Counterflow Chiler
Wow the info is a little overwhelming and I haven't really found what I am trying to build yet. I am thinking of starting out with a 8 gallon turkey fryer kettle I already have. I've only used this for water and wort so far so its never had oil it in. I am thinking off buying the proper size stainless bowl for the lid and drilling a hole in the center for the coloumn. I am not sure what size column or Lyne arm I need to build. I already have the counterflow chiller so was thinking of using that for my worm. I can simply use a compression fitting to connect. Which means my lyne arm would need to end in a standard 3/8" copper line because that is what my chiller input is. I've been looking at the clawhammer 5 gallon hybrid design and figured I could copy the coloum and have a lyne arm off of that going to my worm. Then later down the rode if I wanted to build a different water jacket I could.
- Yummyrum
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Re: Counterflow Chiler
Got a pic of your chiller
My recommended goto .
https://homedistiller.org/wiki/index.ph ... ion_Theory
https://homedistiller.org/wiki/index.ph ... ion_Theory
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Re: Counterflow Chiler
I do but it got taken down because I posted it through tapatalk. How should I post it? Can I have it on flikr and embed the link?
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Re: Counterflow Chiler
Never mind. I just saved it resized it and uploaded it. Let me know if this is prefered method. I made this chiller myself many years ago. So as you can see I probably have enough skills to build what I need.
- still_stirrin
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Re: Counterflow Chiler
Are you sure the fryer pot isn’t aluminum? Aluminum is reactive to the harsh environment a distiller will subject it too. It should be only stainless steel or copper.gobigparts wrote: ↑Fri Apr 24, 2020 4:35 am...I am thinking of starting out with a 8 gallon turkey fryer kettle I already have. I've only used this for water and wort so far so its never had oil it in.
You don’t need a bowl lid, it can be a flat lid. What is very important however, it a good seal. Some use teflon sheet and others use a dough/batter seal. Just make sure it is sealed.gobigparts wrote: ↑Fri Apr 24, 2020 4:35 am...I am thinking off buying the proper size stainless bowl for the lid and drilling a hole in the center for the column...
Well, ideally the riser and Lyne arm should be larger than the worm tubing. I would suggest at least 1”ID, perhaps even larger. The advantage is that your production won’t be limited by the vapor speed.gobigparts wrote: ↑Fri Apr 24, 2020 4:35 am...I am not sure what size column or Lyne arm I need to build. I already have the counterflow chiller so was thinking of using that for my worm. I can simply use a compression fitting to connect. Which means my lyne arm would need to end in a standard 3/8" copper line because that is what my chiller input is.
In fact, your 3/8”ID worm will be a limiting factor already. And 3/8”ID is the absolute minimum size tolerated because of the risk of a puke plugging the line creating back pressure in the boiler.
Not sure if the Clawhammer is the design I would use as a “go by” for a build. If you search through our forums, you’ll see many designs that will work much better...and safer!gobigparts wrote: ↑Fri Apr 24, 2020 4:35 am...I've been looking at the clawhammer 5 gallon hybrid design and figured I could copy the coloum and have a lyne arm off of that going to my worm. Then later down the rode if I wanted to build a different water jacket I could.
Sure, you may know how to brew beer and you have the right tools for that job. But it doesn’t mean you’re ideally prepared for the distillation portion of our hobby. You need the right tools for the job for our hobby as well. You need to do diligence and read, read, read...study our website before proceeding too quickly.
ss
My LM/VM & Potstill: My build thread
My Cadco hotplate modification thread: Hotplate Build
My stock pot gin still: stock pot potstill
My 5-grain Bourbon recipe: Special K
My Cadco hotplate modification thread: Hotplate Build
My stock pot gin still: stock pot potstill
My 5-grain Bourbon recipe: Special K
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Re: Counterflow Chiler
still_stirrin wrote: ↑Fri Apr 24, 2020 5:05 amAre you sure the fryer pot isn’t aluminum? Aluminum is reactive to the harsh environment a distiller will subject it too. It should be only stainless steel or copper.gobigparts wrote: ↑Fri Apr 24, 2020 4:35 am...I am thinking of starting out with a 8 gallon turkey fryer kettle I already have. I've only used this for water and wort so far so its never had oil it in.
You don’t need a bowl lid, it can be a flat lid. What is very important however, it a good seal. Some use teflon sheet and others use a dough/batter seal. Just make sure it is sealed.gobigparts wrote: ↑Fri Apr 24, 2020 4:35 am...I am thinking off buying the proper size stainless bowl for the lid and drilling a hole in the center for the column...
Well, ideally the riser and Lyne arm should be larger than the worm tubing. I would suggest at least 1”ID, perhaps even larger. The advantage is that your production won’t be limited by the vapor speed.gobigparts wrote: ↑Fri Apr 24, 2020 4:35 am...I am not sure what size column or Lyne arm I need to build. I already have the counterflow chiller so was thinking of using that for my worm. I can simply use a compression fitting to connect. Which means my lyne arm would need to end in a standard 3/8" copper line because that is what my chiller input is.
In fact, your 3/8”ID worm will be a limiting factor already. And 3/8”ID is the absolute minimum size tolerated because of the risk of a puke plugging the line creating back pressure in the boiler.
Not sure if the Clawhammer is the design I would use as a “go by” for a build. If you search through our forums, you’ll see many designs that will work much better...and safer!gobigparts wrote: ↑Fri Apr 24, 2020 4:35 am...I've been looking at the clawhammer 5 gallon hybrid design and figured I could copy the coloum and have a lyne arm off of that going to my worm. Then later down the rode if I wanted to build a different water jacket I could.
Sure, you may know how to brew beer and you have the right tools for that job. But it doesn’t mean you’re ideally prepared for the distillation portion of our hobby. You need the right tools for the job for our hobby as well. You need to do diligence and read, read, read...study our website before proceeding too quickly.
ss
Yes, 100% certain it is Stainless.
Ok, I thought about using the lid it came with but not sure I want a hole in it so I can use for heating up strike water quicker in my mash. I suppose I could build so the column could be removeable and a plug installed. Already know it needs to be sealed. Ideas I've thought about in my mind would be making a food grade safe seal from liquid food grade silcode in a tube. Put it around lid and set lid on pot and let dry. Put a release ajent on one side. Then use spring clamps around lid during distillation. Or use teflon, or a flour paste or something like that.
Yes, the chiller is probably long and small diameter. I was just thinking I could try it to start out cheap and then once I learn maybe build something new. I could scrap the idea of using it and just build a new heat exchanger. Not sure yet.
Yes, I've been brewing beer for 20 years and really enjoy developing recipes and makeing beers that I enjoy drinking. I am jsut starting to research the distilling hobby and am not in a huge hurry to jump in. Doing research at this point. I remember brewing extract kits and wanting to jump into all grain brewing. I found some articles on line that were very helpful. I bought what I need to build my equipment for batch sparging and jumped in. My first batch was a success but learned some things along the way. Now I've just been perfecting and honing for years. Even dabled in commericial brewing on a pilot system for a few months whichs was fun.
- still_stirrin
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Re: Counterflow Chiler
NO...NO...NO. Silicone is NOT safer for high temperature alcohol (and other solvents) in our service. Not acceptable!gobigparts wrote: ↑Fri Apr 24, 2020 5:20 am...Ideas I've thought about in my mind would be making a food grade safe seal from liquid food grade silcode in a tube. Put it around lid and set lid on pot and let dry. Put a release ajent on one side. Then use spring clamps around lid during distillation....
My LM/VM & Potstill: My build thread
My Cadco hotplate modification thread: Hotplate Build
My stock pot gin still: stock pot potstill
My 5-grain Bourbon recipe: Special K
My Cadco hotplate modification thread: Hotplate Build
My stock pot gin still: stock pot potstill
My 5-grain Bourbon recipe: Special K
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Re: Counterflow Chiler
What is safe?
- still_stirrin
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Re: Counterflow Chiler
You NEED to read. I’ve already told you!
You have a lot of homework to do before you’re ready to proceed. Better get started reading.
ss
My LM/VM & Potstill: My build thread
My Cadco hotplate modification thread: Hotplate Build
My stock pot gin still: stock pot potstill
My 5-grain Bourbon recipe: Special K
My Cadco hotplate modification thread: Hotplate Build
My stock pot gin still: stock pot potstill
My 5-grain Bourbon recipe: Special K
Re: Counterflow Chiler
still_stirrin wrote: ↑Fri Apr 24, 2020 5:28 amNO...NO...NO. Silicone is NOT safer for high temperature alcohol (and other solvents) in our service. Not acceptable!gobigparts wrote: ↑Fri Apr 24, 2020 5:20 am...Ideas I've thought about in my mind would be making a food grade safe seal from liquid food grade silcode in a tube. Put it around lid and set lid on pot and let dry. Put a release ajent on one side. Then use spring clamps around lid during distillation....
I also have to improve my seal on my kettle. I am using my brew boil kettle all electric; I have been using clamps all around but it seems I am losing a lot of potential alcohol based on yields I get.
There are silicon tubing made for brewing to transfer boiling wort. It is food grade and safe up to 500c. I understand silicon you get at hardware store is really bad but the silicon tubing I am talking about are made especially for this purpose. I was thinking of using a tube, cutting it open and wrap around the kettle. I would seal the joint with flour paste and then squeeze the lid with clamps. Would that work?
Thanks
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Re: Counterflow Chiler
No... silicon will not withstand high temp, but it's not the high temp to be concern with, it's the high temp alcohol vapors which destroys the tubing..Terrenum wrote: ↑Wed Jan 18, 2023 7:05 am There are silicon tubing made for brewing to transfer boiling wort. It is food grade and safe up to 500c. I understand silicon you get at hardware store is really bad but the silicon tubing I am talking about are made especially for this purpose. I was thinking of using a tube, cutting it open and wrap around the kettle. I would seal the joint with flour paste and then squeeze the lid with clamps. Would that work?
Make a gasket out of matboard, wrapped with a few layer of teflon tape, and held in place blinder clips.. with proper care they last..
Mars
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Re: Counterflow Chiler
with proper care teflon byproducts build up in the ecosystem to extremely toxic levels
https://news.yahoo.com/concerning-map-r ... 09122.html
https://news.yahoo.com/concerning-map-r ... 09122.html