1000w Hot plate mods
Moderator: Site Moderator
1000w Hot plate mods
I've picked up a small 1000w hot plate for my 4 quart gin still. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C8 ... UTF8&psc=1
I want to replace the thermostatic contact switch with this SCR https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WV ... UTF8&psc=1
This is how I think it should be wired.
The item in the lower right corner is the power on indicator light.
The SCR seems to need both red and white inputs and outputs. It looks like the red input/output can just be switched from the thermo control to the SCR in. I think the white should be cut and redirected to the SCR input, with the SCR white output going back to the heating element where the white was originally connected.
Do you all think this is correct?
I appreciate and value your input.
The SCR seems to need both red and white inputs and outputs. It looks like the red input/output can just be switched from the thermo control to the SCR in. I think the white should be cut and redirected to the SCR input, with the SCR white output going back to the heating element where the white was originally connected.
Do you all think this is correct?
I appreciate and value your input.
Higgins
Flute build
Steamer build
4 methods experiment
Aging proof experiment
Next up: AG Wheat vodka
Flute build
Steamer build
4 methods experiment
Aging proof experiment
Next up: AG Wheat vodka
Re: 1000w Hot plate mods
The controller will probably overheat and fail quite early if you mount it in the unit. All of mine are in separate boxes.
- Yummyrum
- Global moderator
- Posts: 7730
- Joined: Sat Jul 06, 2013 2:23 am
- Location: Fraser Coast QLD Aussie
Re: 1000w Hot plate mods
There is no need to interfere with the white wiring at all .
The two outer connections in your controller are simply joined together and have no purpose as far as the controller is concerned .
Just connect the red wires .
But I would agree with NZChris , it will very likely over heat and prematurely fail if you put it inside the case .
The two outer connections in your controller are simply joined together and have no purpose as far as the controller is concerned .
Just connect the red wires .
But I would agree with NZChris , it will very likely over heat and prematurely fail if you put it inside the case .
My recommended goto .
https://homedistiller.org/wiki/index.ph ... ion_Theory
https://homedistiller.org/wiki/index.ph ... ion_Theory
Re: 1000w Hot plate mods
Also, many of those solid plates have a built in thermostat that cuts out about half of the power to prevent the plate getting red hot. If you don't have an ammeter to watch and are unaware of this, there is a very good likelihood that you will be back here asking what went wrong.
A 1000W solid plate usually only has about 500W of reliable power that can be used for distilling purposes.
A 1000W solid plate usually only has about 500W of reliable power that can be used for distilling purposes.
Re: 1000w Hot plate mods
Thanks for the feedback guys.
I'll probably go ahead and make up a small electrical box with the SCR and a duplex outlet, then plug the hot plate into that. I can leave the hot plate turned on full and use the SCR to adjust the voltage as necessary. The SCR states that it can adjust the output from 50v to 240v. Does that mean that when set to minimum there may still be some output voltage? I'll get it set up and measure the output at the min and max settings of the SCR. If the min is not zero then I'll need to include an on/off switch.
I have been successful using this hot plate as is for 6 batches of OEG, but you have to watch it very carefully and be quick to turn it down when the fun starts. I'd just like to have a bit more control. One thing about my SS 4 qt pot is a thick aluminum sandwiched bottom. This means it takes longer to heat up, but if it gets too hot it is slow to cool down. Not sure if this helps or hurts.
Thanks again.
I'll probably go ahead and make up a small electrical box with the SCR and a duplex outlet, then plug the hot plate into that. I can leave the hot plate turned on full and use the SCR to adjust the voltage as necessary. The SCR states that it can adjust the output from 50v to 240v. Does that mean that when set to minimum there may still be some output voltage? I'll get it set up and measure the output at the min and max settings of the SCR. If the min is not zero then I'll need to include an on/off switch.
I have been successful using this hot plate as is for 6 batches of OEG, but you have to watch it very carefully and be quick to turn it down when the fun starts. I'd just like to have a bit more control. One thing about my SS 4 qt pot is a thick aluminum sandwiched bottom. This means it takes longer to heat up, but if it gets too hot it is slow to cool down. Not sure if this helps or hurts.
Thanks again.
Higgins
Flute build
Steamer build
4 methods experiment
Aging proof experiment
Next up: AG Wheat vodka
Flute build
Steamer build
4 methods experiment
Aging proof experiment
Next up: AG Wheat vodka
Re: 1000w Hot plate mods
My advice: leaves the original plate and build a separate box for the controller: when you have to use it, insert the plate plug into the controller, up to maximum the original thermostat and adjust the power from the SCR, it is so I use those plates . Furthermore the original thermostat can intervene if the plate becomes very hot (it is an extra protection)
Re: 1000w Hot plate mods
My boxes have a three way switch, on/off/on, wired so that the power can go through the controller, be switched off, or bypass the controller.
They also have an ammeter so that I can keep an eye on any tricks the plate or it’s simmerstat get up to.
They also have an ammeter so that I can keep an eye on any tricks the plate or it’s simmerstat get up to.
- Yummyrum
- Global moderator
- Posts: 7730
- Joined: Sat Jul 06, 2013 2:23 am
- Location: Fraser Coast QLD Aussie
Re: 1000w Hot plate mods
If it’s the one I’m thinking of , it has a digital voltmeter built in .
The actual controller will control all the way down to Zero , but the cheap Chinese meter stops showing the numbers below about 50volts .
Its just the way those meters work . They also tend to burn out when operated at lower voltages .
Having said that , you would not normally need to run your element at very low power .
Also, never trust that when turned to 0 , that a controller is not putting out voltage . Consider them as “live” at all times when plugged in to the Mains power.
NZChris is smart to include and on /off switch .
My recommended goto .
https://homedistiller.org/wiki/index.ph ... ion_Theory
https://homedistiller.org/wiki/index.ph ... ion_Theory
Re: 1000w Hot plate mods
There isn't any display on it. I've ordered a project box, rocker switch, and panel mount outlet. I have cable glands and a power cord, so 18 USD will fix me up (+ the SCR at 6 USD)
Thanks, guys.
Thanks, guys.
Higgins
Flute build
Steamer build
4 methods experiment
Aging proof experiment
Next up: AG Wheat vodka
Flute build
Steamer build
4 methods experiment
Aging proof experiment
Next up: AG Wheat vodka
-
- Swill Maker
- Posts: 233
- Joined: Wed Dec 02, 2020 9:24 pm
Re: 1000w Hot plate mods
Obviously a little late to the party since you've got a project box and things ordered, but those inexpensive "router speed control" units work great out of the box for this.
https://www.harborfreight.com/router-sp ... 43060.html
https://www.harborfreight.com/router-sp ... 43060.html
Re: 1000w Hot plate mods
I did look at the router control, but all the stores near me say 'back in stock soon'. And this is an in store only item, so no mail ordering.
Higgins
Flute build
Steamer build
4 methods experiment
Aging proof experiment
Next up: AG Wheat vodka
Flute build
Steamer build
4 methods experiment
Aging proof experiment
Next up: AG Wheat vodka