How to modify your Cadco LKR-220 Hot Plate:
This is sold by MileHi and is 2,000 watt and 220v. I called up Cadco and confirmed that it does cycle on/off. The manual is attached at the bottom of the post. To prevent this from happening you need to bypass the thermostat and install a new controller (AKA...adjustable voltage regulator, light-dimmer, router speed control, temperature controller, etc). Make sure to get a controller that is designed for AC 220v and can handle 2,000 watts. I'll give my parts list a little later next to the pictures. I'm not an electrician so proceed at your own risk.
I'll start off with some pictures so you can see what it looks like before the mod.
The top of this photo is the temperature control knob. The power cord is at the bottom.
Power comes directly into the housing with the bottom two wires. The double wire at the top is split between powering the element and sending power to the on LED light. The other top wire goes to the element, too.
Last edited by BrewVegas on Wed Feb 15, 2012 10:15 pm, edited 1 time in total.
So, because I don't have my parts in yet, I will hardwire directly to the element with constant power and bypass the thermostat. Thanks to HD member Washashore for the inspiration. This will provide full 2,000 watt power & will only allow me to do stripping runs and I will have no control over the power. To power on/off the plug must manually be connected or disconnected. DONT FORGET AND LEAVE IT ON! Also, it will spark with you unplug it, so pay attention.
In this picture you can see the temporary mod. I took the two wires coming into the unit and spliced them (blue clips) directly to the two wires leading to the element. The yellow wire nuts are not the connection. This is just where I snipped off the female disconnect terminals.
OK, so now it is hard wired and won't cycle on and off.
The parts haven't arrived yet, but I'll show you what's coming. I ordered a speed controller from eBay and here are the pics from the seller. Features:
1. Voltage: AC 220V
2. Maximum Power: 3800W
3. Max Current: 40A
4. Voltage Regulation: AC 0-220V
5. Board size: 60x45x40mm
6. 4mm thicken radiator
7. 1.6mm epoxy copper-clad board
8. weight: 81g
Last edited by BrewVegas on Wed Feb 15, 2012 10:55 pm, edited 1 time in total.
I'm also going to add an amp meter. I also ordered it from eBay.
Specification: Product Name: Analog Ammeter Model: YS-670 Measuring Current Range: AC 0-10A Accuracy: Class 2.5 Meter Face Size(Approx.): 7 x 5.8 x 1.1cm/ 2.7" x 2.3" x 0.4"(L*W*T) Thread Size: 0.4 x 1cm / 0.16" x 0.4"(D*L) 0.28 x 0.8cm / 0.11" x 0.31"(D*L) Base Diameter: 5cm/2'' Overall Depth: 3.4cm/ 1.3" Screw Spacing: 2.8cm/1.1'' 4.8m/1.9'' Color : Black, White Net Weight: 78g Package Content: 1 x Analog Ammeter Several Installing Parts
If I bypass the thermostat then I will have to add a heatsink right? I'll pop it open tonight to see if I can distinguish between the thermostat and the temperature control and offer this as a possible mod if I can figure it out. The new temp controller (without thermostat) that I ordered was less than $10 and can replace the existing housing and still look factory new. I like to keep things looking purdy if possible.
BrewVegas wrote:... This will provide full 2,000 watt power & will only allow me to do stripping runs and I will have no control over the power. To power on/off the plug must manually be connected or disconnected. DONT FORGET AND LEAVE IT ON! Also, it will spark with you unplug it, so pay attention.
...OK, so now it is hard wired and won't cycle on and off.
so are you saying that the only thing required to eliminate cycling while still having power control is the speed controller?
thanks
ptech
"..Almost seems like a miracle every time that first drop of alcohol comes out of the still.." ...Rad14701
I never got the speed controller to work properly, so I abandoned the hot plate and went back to my propane setup. I'm finalizing my SSR Controller build (similar to the MK5500) for a heating element to add directly to my milk can. After that is finished, I'll convert the wiring on the hot plate to the same L6-R30 plugs to keep as a backup and run it off the same controller.
OK....I'm working on a new mod for the same hot plate. I bought a SSR, potentiometer and amp meter and need a little help connecting the dots. I have wired this in a few different configurations to trouble shoot, but don't know if maybe I have a bad part instead of incorrect wiring. How do I wire in-line the amp meter and does the rest of the wiring look correct?
