Heating Element Control

[Burks]

That simply? Really? Wow, over thought this.

Just use a cord rated for the proper amperage, and make sure it's a 3 prong one right? Ground the cord to the boiler? Figured I'd just use a hose clamp around the copper female end to ground with.

What size wire should I use for my hot? Looks like with the eBay one I'll need to make a small extension. 1500w element that is.

[winestill]

How does this one sound: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1pc-KYOTTO-AC-S ... 20b9aba410" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow and of course heatsink.
Has anyone tried it? When using these controllers do you use filter of some kind, EMI or RFI or what ever they are called?

[Cmdte]

Anyone tried this method yet? I'm considering using a 1500w element on a 5 gallon SS pot. Would rather use electric instead of gas since I'm indoors.

Also, can a copper female threaded fitting just be soldered into the side of the pot to house the element?

[/quote]

Thats what I did, the 4500w heating element I got from an old water heater I found on the street was longer that the keg diameter, so I soldered a female threaded (2.5 in long) fitting on the bottom side of the keg and it worked great, at full power it boils 40L of wash in about 25 to 30 mins

Heres a pic:

[freespirited]

Is there any difference between running a psr with 250k 2w pot as opposed to the cheaper route of running a VR-SSR with 500k 2w (specifed) pot?

[steve2md]

I guess I'm gonna need to build an electric pot now....lol

[RumRunnerGuy]

you dont want to control the temp of the boiler you want to control the POWER your putting into the boiler

if you dont want to buy the PSR-25 get one of these

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/140730716566 ... 1423.l2649" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

then
get a PC cooling fan and a 5V power supply for the fan (phone charger etc)
get a box to put it in

total cost will be about $30 max if you scrounge around

wire it up and your away

maheel,

That was the unit I was planning on using when I build my Keg Still. I was planning on building a box with two Volt/Amp Meters for both the input and output. I hadn't thought about the fan, that should be easy enough to add into the system. Do you happen to have a schematic of how you wired yours up?

RR

[Theo]

"I was planning on building a box with two Volt/Amp Meters for both the input and output."


Only use one ammeter. Amps in = amps out, the analogy I use is that it like water flow. You but 5 gal/min in, 5 gal/min will come out. So it doesn't matter if you read amps going in or coming out.

Volt meters are a different story. The water analogy is that voltage is like pressure. Your control device is like a throttle valve. So a volt meter on the input would always show 220 (or 110). Coming out of the control, you would see the lower voltage that is going to the heater element. IMO just use the ammeter. KISS method.

[RumRunnerGuy]

"I was planning on building a box with two Volt/Amp Meters for both the input and output."


Only use one ammeter. Amps in = amps out, the analogy I use is that it like water flow. You but 5 gal/min in, 5 gal/min will come out. So it doesn't matter if you read amps going in or coming out.

Volt meters are a different story. The water analogy is that voltage is like pressure. Your control device is like a throttle valve. So a volt meter on the input would always show 220 (or 110). Coming out of the control, you would see the lower voltage that is going to the heater element. IMO just use the ammeter. KISS method.

Theo,

Thank you for the input. My plan was to use Digital Gauges that had both Volts & Amps. My thought was to monitor incoming to make sure the power was constant in case there were power fluctuations if I moved the location, but honestly you're probably right not really any need to measure input power. One less gauge to buy

RR

[Theo]

The ammeter will fluctuate as the incoming voltage changes. Your choice, some people want more bells & whistles.

Enjoy!

[andrewgwu]

After nearly two years of wanting to go electric, I finally got around to assembling my electric controller and plan on drilling the keg for the element tomorrow. I do have a couple questions though.
In all the diagrams I have seen the wires to the Pot go to the middle one and one outside tab. The other outside tab appears to be connected to the middle one as seen in this diagram.
http://i516.photobucket.com/albums/u328 ... 3da3d4.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

However, after doing this I went back and read some threads I had saved regarding the topic and see that Mulekicker said to cut off the extra tab on the Pot. Am I okay attaching this extra outside tab to the middle one in this fashion, or should I redo it?
http://i516.photobucket.com/albums/u328 ... 07_864.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

Here is the entire setup. I used a 25amp breaker in the controller because I will be running it off a circuit that is wired for a higher amperage welder. I left plenty of room on the control box to install an amp meter if needed.
http://i516.photobucket.com/albums/u328 ... 34_931.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

Here is a photo of the inside: (note I only had red 10gauge wire so I used it where white should have been used) If anyone sees a problem with this please let me know.
http://i516.photobucket.com/albums/u328 ... 47_920.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

The other question is I purchased a 5500w element to use with this because all of my reading said it would support it, but have started wondering if I should be running a 4500w to avoid maxing out my controller and extending its life.

[MuleKicker]

Am I okay attaching this extra outside tab to the middle one in this fashion, or should I redo it?

Cut it off, dont use it.

but have started wondering if I should be running a 4500w to avoid maxing out my controller and extending its life.

That thing will run forever on 5500w. Heatsink may need to be bigger, or use a fan. Just monitor the temp while running.

[Big Stogie]

It has taken a while to read through this post. I have decided on Panda's SSR plan with the following purchased from uxcell:

a11052300ux0061 85L1 AC 0-250V Rectangle Analog Volt Panel Meter Gauge 1
a11062400ux0101 Solid State Relay SSR Voltage Resistance Regulator 40A 24-380V AC + Heat Sink 1
a11121400ux0233 Replacement 6mm Shaft Dia 470K Ohm 2W Pots Potentiometer w Knob 1

I would like to put a fan as part of this circuit. I found the following for 10bucks.
Dimensions: 80mm x 80mm x 25mm
Fan Speed: 2300-2700rpm
Air Flow: 24 CFM
Noise Level: 33 dBA
Bearing Type: sleeve Bearing
Rated Voltage: 220V AC
Power Consumption: 11 W
Power Connector: 2PIN

This appears to be an easy thing to do since it is a 220V fan. Would you folks recommend this? Is there a better/easier way? If this makes sense, where would you place it within Panda's schematic? Is there any other component that should be included to do this properly?

Thanks

I just finished testing one of these that I built using the parts from uxcell. I did put in the fan as mine is inside a NEMA 4 box I got a Lowes. I also added the Volt meter which also works perfect. It works FANTASTIC! I am not sure why I waited so long to do this. THANKS to the folks here that put out these designs, find these parts and share thier knowledge and info. Hopefully someday I can pay it back or pay it forward.
B.S.

[DuckofDeath]

Ok I have a somewhat odd request. I have a 220volt deluxe controller. I was told that it will runu fine on 110 or 220. So here is my question. How should I wire the nema 5 to the nema 6? I get that green should go to green, but how should I wire the white and black wires? nema 5 has a silver and a bronze screw. Silver for white wire and Bronze for black. The nema 6 however has 2 bronze screws. one marked X and one marked Y.

[sambedded]

Ok I have a somewhat odd request. I have a 220volt deluxe controller. I was told that it will runu fine on 110 or 220. So here is my question. How should I wire the nema 5 to the nema 6? I get that green should go to green, but how should I wire the white and black wires? nema 5 has a silver and a bronze screw. Silver for white wire and Bronze for black. The nema 6 however has 2 bronze screws. one marked X and one marked Y.

,For this case it actually doesn't matter. You can connect black to X and white to Y.

[jeepkidd]

but have started wondering if I should be running a 4500w to avoid maxing out my controller and extending its life.

That thing will run forever on 5500w. Heatsink may need to be bigger, or use a fan. Just monitor the temp while running.

I ran my still with the controller last night, it worked great. Thank you! I started at full power, ammeter was showing about 22A. It heated up FAST, then I cut back to 10A for the run. My cooling condenser (Brewhaus EE HC) was my bottleneck, as it was having trouble cooling fast enough even though the water was cold in and out.

Question: My heatsink is from an old Pentium 4 processor and is about 2" x 3". During the run it was hot, but not so hot that I couldn't hold my hand against it. How hot can I let the PSR get? I'm not sure if I should be adding a cooling fan to the heatsink.

[sambedded]

Question: My heatsink is from an old Pentium 4 processor and is about 2" x 3". During the run it was hot, but not so hot that I couldn't hold my hand against it. How hot can I let the PSR get? I'm not sure if I should be adding a cooling fan to the heatsink.

If it's below 180F it's OK. But be sure you have good thermal contact between SSR and heatsink. Did you use thermopaste?

[jeepkidd]

okay. I am sure it is below 180. Yes, I used thermal paste.

Thanks!

[Ben Stillin]

I had a long delay in my still project and have since overcome it. I am just betting back to my electrical portion of it. It seems this thread has continued to grow, I have noticed the PSR seems to be the method de jour rather than the triac control we had hammered out a year ago. Am I correct in that and is there some technical drawback to the PSR-25 method? (accuracy?)

I am all about simplicity but I am not above building a triac control (since I have all the parts it seems) but would I also need to place a triac on each leg connecting to neutral such as on the PSR-25?

[n1cod3mus]

if you dont mind the wait you could order these from china

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/230893394398" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

I have ordered some and so has I_am_braveheart, I will come back to you when they turn up and tell you how they perform, or if they just explode.

[janee]

i bought one of those last spring,used it dozens of times,its still working, the only problem is it has very close range, very totchy control knob.

[n1cod3mus]

i bought one of those last spring,used it dozens of times,its still working, the only problem is it has very close range, very totchy control knob.

well at least we know they work

[MuleKicker]

i bought one of those last spring,used it dozens of times,its still working, the only problem is it has very close range, very totchy control knob.

If the control is touchy, you might try checking to see if the pot is the correct range. It's not the relay.

[Theo]

You could replace the pot(ienometer) with two pots. Assuming your existing pot is 5,000 ohms, replace it with a 500 & a 4500 in series. Your numbers may vary. You may be able to just add the the 500 pot into the circuit with the 5,000. You may have to experiment to get a combo that works for you.

Then you will have rough adjustment with the big pot & a fine adjustment with the little one. Hope this might help.

[zaph1]

Janee, any chance you could show some pics of your "Adjustable 3800W AC 0-220V Voltage Regulator" and how you have it set up? I don't see a SSR in use with it on any of the google results I found.

[janee]

I wired it to a 220v outlet, with two switches, one to bypass the controler so it runs at full power till it gets up to temp. then i switch that one off, and turn on the switch to the controler, run off the knob on controler to adjust how much heat i want, i have an s.o. cord to plug into my 220 recptical, put it all in an old plastic battery box, i bypass it because my element is 5500 watts, but after its up to temp. you dont need that much power to hold it where you want it. also drilled holes in the box for air cirulation.

[zaph1]

So you put it inline, no SSR or PSR to control? How hot does it get, or did you add a fan?

[janee]

it needs no ssr or psr, i beleve is a triak based control, if its a real hot day i do put a fan blowing in the box, i have touched the heat sink after a long run and its not hot enough to burn your fingers, there is another one on there thats bigger, more watts, bigger heat sink, 20 bucks, i might get it for a spare, just incase. i think its 10000 watts, that would be 40 amps. but at 40 amps you would be exceding 80% so it should be on a 30 amp breaker

[zaph1]

I just ordered two of them, only $8 each. Can always find use for a cheap speed controller if it works, maybe on my grinder. Where did you find the 40A version? I did find a nice voltmeter & ammeter for $9



Thanks. This solved another project I've been working on. Silicon Controlled Rectifiers are awesome.

[janee]

if you want to look a the bigger one, it 10000w 220v voltage regulator, it is a scr- silicon control relay-, looks more heavy duty than the 3800w

[n1cod3mus]

if you dont mind the wait you could order these from china

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/230893394398" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

I have ordered some and so has I_am_braveheart, I will come back to you when they turn up and tell you how they perform, or if they just explode.

Ok i just got these, thought I would test them with a light bulb on a cable with the plug on it first and they work a treat, best £5 I ever spent.