Heating Element - Questions on SSR and Voltage

[acfixer69]

True there are 2 hots but one pair ties together the other runs thru the relay. All else the same.

AC

[Brokenjeep]

I think if you've got 220/240 available in the garage it only makes sense to use it. Go out in the garage, fire up a space heater and have fun. Your still will also be a bit of a space heater too. Nothing wrong with a healthy respect for 240v, but a 4" column is a big boy toy, and needs a good bit of power. It's really 240 or gas, and I do not think gas is safer, and it sure won't be fun out in that snow! Especially since electrical work is not brand new to you.

Before I poured my slab I put a roll of pex in so I could be warm as I roll around under cars... never thought I would be glad for a non-flame source of heat though!

I see a couple options.
1. Get a smaller element to match your current SSR. I don't think I've used anything other than a 40 amp SSR, but theoretically your 25 amp should work fine with say a 4000 watt element. $12 Amazon prime in the US, but maybe more in canada? If you aren't using a special stainless steel element from a brew supplier you can probably just pick this up at a hardware store and run as soon as tomorrow. 4000 watts will power your still, it just won't heat up quite as fast as 6kw (duh), but a lot of people prefer a slightly slower heat up for flavored spirits anyway.

Ok, so its decided.. I am going to try to respect the 6000w and get the 220 going.

2. Upgrade your SSR. I think 60 amps is overkill for the 6kw element. I really don't know if there is a drawback to using it vs a 40 amp unit. Looks like amazon.ca does have a 40 amp unit though. I think your potentiometer will work with any of the SSR options, but maybe someone else will comment to be sure?

Either of those options will work fine. I'd go with option 2.
Either way you need a 240v plug to match your welder outlet.

Agreed! ..now looking at "Lerway 40A SSR Solid State Relay for PID Temperature Controller" ...so this seems a little too obvious, am I looking at a 40 or 50 amp GFI for this application? I am thinking 50 for cut on/off surges?

Wiring:
You say you have 12 gauge wiring. If that is SJ type, it's probably fine for either option. You might want to hear some other opinions about usung it for a 240V 6000 watt load, but my understanding is that as this basically an appliance plug, it is rated at full amperage (25a) and is not subject to the 80% rule. However appliance cords at full amperage are not expected to be run continuously (more than 3 hours) and if codes matter there may ne some temperature things to consider (I'm NOT an electrician, but have read them argue about this very thing in brew forums). So it's kinda up to you, personally I would be fine with it because you won't be running on high for 3+ hours, you will be turning down below 20 amps after you start boiling. I use 12 gauge SJ cord at 23.5 amps all the time and it does not get hot. I would be comfortable at 25 amps, but maybe just make sure it doesn't get warm on full blast heatup.

Some might argue to apply the 80% rule here anyway and upgrade to 10 gauge, and I wouldn't say they are wrong. Personally I'd downgrade the element to 4500 w before I bought and fought 10 gauge wire.

This leaves GFCI. I just read on a brew forum, and it seems the GFCI options we have stateside are much more expensive up north. Bummer. I will say that at least some here probably don't have GFCI protection. I have run without it, but would not do so now other than for maybe a run or two where I felt compelled to for some reason and took extra precautions. Like checking the still with a volt meter before touching it. Every time. Yes, that is extreme, but like you I have an extreme respect for 240. Once or twice till you prove the concept and get wifey to sign off on it? Ok, maybe. Most failures I've seen and read where GFCI could have saved the day came up over time. Wires corroded, insulation charged through, elements wore out etc. They weren't day one accidents, where you are already being extra careful with brand new gear (and if like me are testing for voltage as soon as you power on). For a limited test without GFCI I would be extra careful that no liquids can possibly get into any electrical. Self fusing silicone tape to wrap everything, a shield or even a wall corner between any Plumbing and the controller box, a shield over the outlet etc. Imagine a plumbing fitting slips off and starts squirting water everywhere, how far can it spray to element connections, wiring, outlet etc?

But GFCI options that I know of.
1. GFCI breaker in the panel, yes they make them. Easiest and cleanest option though often pricey. Just swap it out for the existing one. Since your panel is new, maybe affordable, but maybe not for Canada. I have an old panel so a 240v GFCI breaker for me was $200 USED!
2. Spa panel. In US, $60 new. I've heard $150+ for Canada. These are usually fed with SJ cord to a wall outlet so they aren't legally sub panels, they are just part of your homebrew appliance. And in case you are wondering, it is perfectly fine to plug a 50 amp GFCI spa panel into an outlet protected by a 30-40 amp breaker in the panel. The smaller panel breaker protects everything for load, the spa panel simply provides GFCI for anything downstream of it. Spa panels take up more space in the still room, but you can use them as an on/off switch, which your controller currently doesn't have.
3. GFCI inline plug adapters. Something like this:
http://a.co/8SbSrTM" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
Ouch! Hate to tell ya, but that $600 CDN doohicky is more like $150 in the US!

I put up a bunch of stuff about the cable being 25amp, hope that will be enough otherwise I will downgrade the element since I can't get a 10gauge in the housing. I would love to hear of others running 12 gauge on this setup? What is limiting the amps in this situation, just the SSR? If you wired it directly would it just give it up to whatever your breaker is.. I am sadly ignorant on how its controlled.

US prices have always been better on these specialty items! Swappin out at the panel!

A few other things.
1. You really need a heatsink. I think it was mentioned before, but get one.

I have one of these standard issue ones.. would be nice to have a larger one .

sync.JPG (9.63 KiB) Viewed 3305 times

2. I don't think its been mentioned how you boiler takes elements. Is it a female thread port, a triclamp adapter or what? If its from northstills, looks like they use triclamos, do you have a triclamp adaptor for your element? Or do you habe some way of covering the element connections?
3. Whatever it is MAKE SURE YOUR BOILER IS GROUNDED. This may not be obvious as apparently some manufacturers don't provide an easy way to do it. Screw a ground wire right onto the base of the still if you have to.

So I got lucky, the still came with a StillDragon housing that has a ground screw in it.. I read another forum where someone picked up a jolt off the can.. I think the sanitary clamp will ground the jug ok.

3. It wasn't clear if this still is new, or just new to you. If it's new, search for the thread on proper cleaning, it involves a soapy scrub, a vinegar run as well as a sacrificial throw away alcohol run (that turbo would be perfect here:) if it's just new to you use your own judgement for how much cleaning it needs, but a full regimen would not be excessive.

You have a SWEET still, worth more than several of my cars. Invest just a few more bucks in it and it will be more fun than a motorcycle, and safer than a volvo.

I think the guy gave it to me fresh off his last run.. just cut the cables to the element and handed it over. I soaped it.. was going to run a water.. then a vinegar.. going to look for that other thread now, thanks for the referral! I am still reading about SSR's and setups in the fourms and other places.

Its fair to say I got in way over my head, but when one of these come up on your local classifieds I took it as a sign!

[Yummyrum]

Broken jeep
Any SSR for use with PID is the wrong type . They usually have the suffix DA ...... SSR 40 DA ..... SSR 25 DA .... etc
The type you need that uses a pot have the suffix VR or VA .......SSR 25 VR ...... SSR 40 VA .... etc

The DA type have to be controlled by a controllerwith some electronic Smarts in it such as a PID controller or even a simple power controller like the Auberins DSPR1 https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main ... cts_id=444" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

Regarding your element and wiring . A 6000w element will take a maximum of 25 A when plugged into 240 V . Your cable needs to be rated for this . However the SSR should have redundancy built in or it will die . A SSR 40 VR or SSR 40 VA will do the job .

[Brokenjeep]

Broken jeep
Any SSR for use with PID is the wrong type . They usually have the suffix DA ...... SSR 40 DA ..... SSR 25 DA .... etc
The type you need that uses a pot have the suffix VR or VA .......SSR 25 VR ...... SSR 40 VA .... etc

The DA type have to be controlled by a controllerwith some electronic Smarts in it such as a PID controller or even a simple power controller like the Auberins DSPR1 https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main ... cts_id=444" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

Regarding your element and wiring . A 6000w element will take a maximum of 25 A when plugged into 240 V . Your cable needs to be rated for this . However the SSR should have redundancy built in or it will die . A SSR 40 VR or SSR 40 VA will do the job .

I see now..

I can't source SSR 40 VA on amazon.ca.. ebay's are all comming from china.

That DSPR220 is pretty sexy... and since I jumped the gun and already ordered the DA (Doh) this should work eh? I see its 220 and I like being able to bring it up to temp. I have seen the Auber units referenced a lot.
https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main ... cts_id=559" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

.....3 weeks delivery! Ouch!

EDIT - I just found these guys in my hood... have to figure out if that is DA.

JGX-40F-AC
40Amp
$25.89

http://www.a1parts.com/relays/index.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

[jonnys_spirit]

It's the resistance of the heating element and ohms law that determine maximum amperage draw and therefore wattage when connected directly. The SSR must limit current which in turn only allows a certain amperage and thus wattage.

For instance Ohms Law states that P=I*E (PIE)and E+I*R (Elvis Is Rotting). P=Watts, I=Amps, E=Volts, and R=Resistance.

If I do some math - In my case a 5500W rated element on my 220V circuit will draw up to 25 Amps into the resistive load of 8.8 Ohms. I guess I can actually measure the voltage under load and the resistance of the element (out of circuit!) but my controller at max shows a draw of about 23 Amps or 5kW...

I usually heat the wort at full power then back it down to about 5.5 or 6 Amps for fores (drip - drip) which comes to about 1200-1300 watts (imagine the heating power of 12 or 13 100 Watt Light Bulbs). Then up to 16 or 17 Amps for a stripping run which is about 3700 Watts of power or 37x 100W light bulbs.

That's on a 3" potstill column and as long as it doesn't puke I can strip at full 23A power or about 5000W.

I should measure my exact voltage though and element resistance to get more accurate #'s but I really just look at the PC output and feel the water temp out of the condenser and adjust from there in practice...

My dryer circuit breaker is rated 30A and I'll have to look at the romex but I think it's 12ga.

Cheers!
-j

[Brokenjeep]

Jonny, that is pretty solid.. I think I am good in that case! The wire is rated by the book at 25amps and I would imagine your controller is pretty accurate. I would imagine my 6000w rated element on the 4" is pretty close if I don't get impatient and crank it as it will take a bit longer! I think I can source some meters to measure actuals.

[Brokenjeep]

I think I finally found one SSR-40VA but no delivery until March! I can't believe these are so hard to find!

https://www.amazon.ca/DealMux-SSR-40VA- ... s=SSR-40VA" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

[sw_reijnders]

I think I finally found one SSR-40VA but no delivery until March! I can't believe these are so hard to find!

https://www.amazon.ca/DealMux-SSR-40VA- ... s=SSR-40VA" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

I have good experiences with these relays

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1pc-KYOTTO-AC- ... xyNo9SrGZH" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

compared to Fotek they feel a lot more solid (heavier)
they have also 400v relays which I use for my 3 phase 400v setup.

[Expat]

+1 for the Kyotto units. I have a pair of them and they run great, no issues after running them for a few years.

[zapata]

I know shipping might suck a bit, but can't you just order from ebay, or stilldragon for that matter?

[Brokenjeep]

I think I finally found one SSR-40VA but no delivery until March! I can't believe these are so hard to find!

https://www.amazon.ca/DealMux-SSR-40VA- ... s=SSR-40VA" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

I have good experiences with these relays

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1pc-KYOTTO-AC- ... xyNo9SrGZH" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

compared to Fotek they feel a lot more solid (heavier)
they have also 400v relays which I use for my 3 phase 400v setup.

Thanks for the recommendation.. just ordered it! My final price was $31.04 (plus customs) and it will get here March 1st ish.

[Brokenjeep]

This whole project is a slippery slope. After ordering the PID SSR by mistake I started reading more and investigating the Auberins equipment, specifically the DSPR220.. comparing it to the InkBirds and others. I really think that may be the direction I want to go.

Only problem is I have a batch that is due Saturday and if I chucked the batch I will catch hell. I finished wiring the 6000watt element with the SSR i had on hand. I completely am going into this not knowing if its going to boil the 50gal of mash I have or not using 120@20amp with the 6000watt 220 element. I checked ground on the system, doing the drip test on the housing now.. looks ok. I considered getting a 120 element but not sure minimum watts I would be looking for. If it starts to look like things are not how enough to collect I am considering removing bubble plates.. not sure, taking bets along with advice. thanks again! Oh one other thing.. everything I read said don't run a element under its rated wattage, why is that? Is it ok to do that in this scenario?

[LWTCS]

145 on hand here:

http://stilldragon.com/index.php/solid-state-relay.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

[Brokenjeep]

145 on hand here:

http://stilldragon.com/index.php/solid-state-relay.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

Yep, another good source.. I didn't check there first but probably should have.

[durty_dunderpants]

funnily enough i gave my SSVR power controller build it's first run today (i usually use a the PWM section of my brewing box but wanted to build a lightweight "portable" one)..

..crapped out within 10 minutes. i'll investigate the "fotek" SSVR later but looking like the lottery of buying cheap junk on ebay. win some, lose some..

[Brokenjeep]

funnily enough i gave my SSVR power controller build it's first run today (i usually use a the PWM section of my brewing box but wanted to build a lightweight "portable" one)..

..crapped out within 10 minutes. i'll investigate the "fotek" SSVR later but looking like the lottery of buying cheap junk on ebay. win some, lose some..

It filled me with confidence when I googled "fotek" and the first few pages were of counterfeit issues! The 25amp one was given to me by the licenced distillery folk so I hope I don't find a marshmallow after I plug it in. The only reason I didn't fire it up last night was I accidentally grabbed a 20A 220 instead of a 20A 120 and didn't notice until I went to plug it in!

[zapata]

investigating the Auberins equipment, specifically the DSPR220.. comparing it to the InkBirds and others. I really think that may be the direction I want to go

Get a few runs in before you bother. It sounds neat, but honestly after you've run a still a few times it will be of very limited benefit. You have to sit there and watch the still anyway, so watching thermometers or feeling the column and making a few power adjustments really isn't a big deal. Make sure you understand the differences between the DSPR and almost any other PID, for the most part PID functions are worthless on a still with the exception of the EZ boil methodology. Don't fall for the very common beginner notion that you will be able to use PID function to run the still. The only thing the DSPR really does is automatically go from full power heatup to a lower distillation power. While you sit there watching the still doing nothing. You can turn a knob, once, after an hour of doing nothing, right? Other than that, it has an alarm. So do $5 digital thermometers. Now, if you have a more advanced application for the relays, like a multi element setup, or some complicated coolant setup or something maybe. But I'd dream up that system and really weigh the benefits first.

I completely am going into this not knowing if its going to boil the 50gal of mash I have or not using 120@20amp with the 6000watt 220 element.

Surely you mean if it will boil the maximum 40 liter charge you can fit in your 50 liter milk can boiler, right? If so, it will certainly boil it. It will just take a while. Insulation will help a lot. I use either reflectix (silver bubble wrap type home insulation) or closed cell foam camping pads ($5ish from wallmart), but for a one off don't be ashamed to use blankets or sleeping bags. Just wrap it up, leaving a way to easily see wherever connections are to make sure they don't leak during your run. Expect 1.5 hours for heatup or so.

I considered getting a 120 element but not sure minimum watts I would be looking for.

If you go that route, I would think you'd want a 2000 watt element assuming you have a dedicated 20 Amp circuit to plug it into. It will be 33% faster than your element. The main question is whether it will be enough power to load the plates and keep them loaded. I'd save the money and just try it with the present element, worst case scenario the plates don't load and it works like a pot still.

If it starts to look like things are not how enough to collect I am considering removing bubble plates.. not sure, taking bets along with advice.

Just leave them in. Either
A: You have enough power to keep the plates loaded, in which case it's like any other flute run just slower.
B: You can't keep the plates loaded so it works like a pot still.
Or my Bet C: Something in between, I think under full reflux you'll load the plates, but they will collapse when you take off at anything more than the slowest drip, and you'll have trouble adjusting the dephleg to maintain that slow takeoff. So you'll end up with something between a proper flute run and a pot still as the plates alternately load and collapse while you fiddle with the dephlegmater. If it's really difficult to keep the plates loaded, just shut off the dephleg completely, and the plates should dry out fully and you'll be in full pot mode, just a fairly smeared messy pot run. No worries, just consider it a stripping run, dilute it to 30-40 abv and re-run without the plates for a pot style spirit run (making sure your element will stay covered at the end of the run). You'll have something to show your wife, and a justification for the remaining toys and better quality washes.

Oh one other thing.. everything I read said don't run a element under its rated wattage, why is that? Is it ok to do that in this scenario?

Got a reference? There is absolutely nothing wrong with running an element below it's rated wattage. Folks do it all the time, it's the foundation of any kind of power controller as well as the often used 240v elements on 120v trick. It's not much different from using a dimmer switch on an incandescent light bulb.

[zapata]

Or another pitch for a 240v option you can have by this weekend.
240V 3800 watt element for $15.48 in Canadian home depot stores. That's 15.8 amps. Should work fine with your 25 A SSR, in fact may be possible to just run this without a controller, seems a fairly typical power setting for flute runs I've watched. Should be plenty of power to load the plates and still takeoff at a decent rate.
https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.wate ... 51501.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

Or a 4500 watt 240V (18.75 Amps) $17. Should still work with your controller, though it really depends how sturdy/dependable your SSR is. Theoretically it's fine, I've just heard so many stories of people frying SSRs that aren't really oversized, this would be running at 75% max amps.
https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.wate ... 20193.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

Canadian tire has similar units in the $30-$35 range, but are the foldback design if you need that to fit in your boiler. Basically, whatever your local hardware store is should have an element that will work with your 25A SSR.

Do you have a plug for your welder outlet? Does this fit it, looks like the blades rotate either way.
https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.dual ... 05559.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

I'd really want to have that 240V GFCI breaker in though. Home depot canada looks to have them if you can sneak the $275 past the CFO. Although you didn't say, if you run on 120V, will that have GFCI?

That looks like a $35-55 at homedepot gets your controller running today on 240V at 3800-4500 watts (15-18A) without GFCI protection.
$310-$330 total for GFCI.
When your new SSR gets in you can swap it out and step up to the 6000w element for faster heatups. Or maybe your SSR holds up, you're fine with heatup times at 3800-4500 watts, and you can cancel/return the new SSR. Brag about saving the money to your wife!
*edit not sure about that switch on your controller, that might need to be upgraded if you go the 240v route.

[cede]

You can get a spa GFCI box sometimes on Kijiji or craiglist but it's always better to test it !

I saw a Gfci 60 amp Eaton Cutler-Hammer in a box for a spa, new, 119,99 $ at a spa reseller.

[Brokenjeep]

Or another pitch for a 240v option you can have by this weekend.
240V 3800 watt element for $15.48 in Canadian home depot stores. That's 15.8 amps. Should work fine with your 25 A SSR, in fact may be possible to just run this without a controller, seems a fairly typical power setting for flute runs I've watched. Should be plenty of power to load the plates and still takeoff at a decent rate.
https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.wate ... 51501.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

I am going to try to source this. After I fired it up with the 6000watt (really 1500) last night I almost lost my nerve! Haha.. I am going to keep it slow and steady for the first few!! (Realizing the flute probably wasn't ideal for a slow start)

Or a 4500 watt 240V (18.75 Amps) $17. Should still work with your controller, though it really depends how sturdy/dependable your SSR is. Theoretically it's fine, I've just heard so many stories of people frying SSRs that aren't really oversized, this would be running at 75% max amps.
https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.wate ... 20193.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

Canadian tire has similar units in the $30-$35 range, but are the foldback design if you need that to fit in your boiler. Basically, whatever your local hardware store is should have an element that will work with your 25A SSR.

Do you have a plug for your welder outlet? Does this fit it, looks like the blades rotate either way.
https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.dual ... 05559.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

Zapata, I don't believe it! I had that in my hand yesterday but didn't realize you could change the blades! My buddy was in a rush so I didn't inspect to closely!

I'd really want to have that 240V GFCI breaker in though. Home depot canada looks to have them if you can sneak the $275 past the CFO. Although you didn't say, if you run on 120V, will that have GFCI?

That looks like a $35-55 at homedepot gets your controller running today on 240V at 3800-4500 watts (15-18A) without GFCI protection.
$310-$330 total for GFCI.
When your new SSR gets in you can swap it out and step up to the 6000w element for faster heatups. Or maybe your SSR holds up, you're fine with heatup times at 3800-4500 watts, and you can cancel/return the new SSR. Brag about saving the money to your wife!
*edit not sure about that switch on your controller, that might need to be upgraded if you go the 240v route.

My shopping list for today..
240V 3800 watt element - $20
240v 20 - 40amp Switch - $10
30amp SquareD breaker - $251.00

I will let ya know how I do!

[Brokenjeep]

investigating the Auberins equipment, specifically the DSPR220.. comparing it to the InkBirds and others. I really think that may be the direction I want to go

Get a few runs in before you bother. It sounds neat, but honestly after you've run a still a few times it will be of very limited benefit. You have to sit there and watch the still anyway, so watching thermometers or feeling the column and making a few power adjustments really isn't a big deal. Make sure you understand the differences between the DSPR and almost any other PID, for the most part PID functions are worthless on a still with the exception of the EZ boil methodology. Don't fall for the very common beginner notion that you will be able to use PID function to run the still. The only thing the DSPR really does is automatically go from full power heatup to a lower distillation power. While you sit there watching the still doing nothing. You can turn a knob, once, after an hour of doing nothing, right? Other than that, it has an alarm. So do $5 digital thermometers. Now, if you have a more advanced application for the relays, like a multi element setup, or some complicated coolant setup or something maybe. But I'd dream up that system and really weigh the benefits first.

I completely am going into this not knowing if its going to boil the 50gal of mash I have or not using 120@20amp with the 6000watt 220 element.

Surely you mean if it will boil the maximum 40 liter charge you can fit in your 50 liter milk can boiler, right? If so, it will certainly boil it. It will just take a while. Insulation will help a lot. I use either reflectix (silver bubble wrap type home insulation) or closed cell foam camping pads ($5ish from wallmart), but for a one off don't be ashamed to use blankets or sleeping bags. Just wrap it up, leaving a way to easily see wherever connections are to make sure they don't leak during your run. Expect 1.5 hours for heatup or so.

I considered getting a 120 element but not sure minimum watts I would be looking for.

If you go that route, I would think you'd want a 2000 watt element assuming you have a dedicated 20 Amp circuit to plug it into. It will be 33% faster than your element. The main question is whether it will be enough power to load the plates and keep them loaded. I'd save the money and just try it with the present element, worst case scenario the plates don't load and it works like a pot still.

If it starts to look like things are not how enough to collect I am considering removing bubble plates.. not sure, taking bets along with advice.

Just leave them in. Either
A: You have enough power to keep the plates loaded, in which case it's like any other flute run just slower.
B: You can't keep the plates loaded so it works like a pot still.
Or my Bet C: Something in between, I think under full reflux you'll load the plates, but they will collapse when you take off at anything more than the slowest drip, and you'll have trouble adjusting the dephleg to maintain that slow takeoff. So you'll end up with something between a proper flute run and a pot still as the plates alternately load and collapse while you fiddle with the dephlegmater. If it's really difficult to keep the plates loaded, just shut off the dephleg completely, and the plates should dry out fully and you'll be in full pot mode, just a fairly smeared messy pot run. No worries, just consider it a stripping run, dilute it to 30-40 abv and re-run without the plates for a pot style spirit run (making sure your element will stay covered at the end of the run). You'll have something to show your wife, and a justification for the remaining toys and better quality washes.

Oh one other thing.. everything I read said don't run a element under its rated wattage, why is that? Is it ok to do that in this scenario?

Got a reference? There is absolutely nothing wrong with running an element below it's rated wattage. Folks do it all the time, it's the foundation of any kind of power controller as well as the often used 240v elements on 120v trick. It's not much different from using a dimmer switch on an incandescent light bulb.

First of thanks again everyone, I wouldn't have gotten this far without the feedback! I fired the controller up after a successful 1 day drip test and much to my surprise it started to warm up! Slapped on the rig and was able to get some water on 2 of the plates before starting to wonder if I had put enough water in the boiler and shut it down (I originally had my doubts I would see anything at all!)

1. You are right Zapata about the DSPR220.. its just a gadget and I am admittedly drawn to them... I am sure the tried and true dial is more responsive and practical for this application!
2. So I have the 50l north still boiler, debating how to approach the first run. My wash is 40l of water + 10l of sugar by volume. I figured after I siphon it I would loose 5 of those maybe and try to run a strip and hopefully not puke. Would you say for my first run its better to split it?
3. For 15$ I can get a 2000 watt element on amazon prime. I got it shipped for tomorrow as a plan b.. or is it c now? Don't really want to use it.. I like the idea of low density ones.
4. Thanks for the coaching. The guy I got the still off of said he never hooked up the dephlegmater because it would crash the head but its probably because he ran it hot was my thinking. I will see how I make out in the 240 conversion project, if I get that sorted I will either have no problem loading the plates or melt my SSR.
5. Under watt element.. http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-repl ... ement.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow "Match same watt rating of new and old elements. Smaller wattage is ok. Larger wattage is not ok." Don't worry about it.. Clearly it has no bearing on what we are doing here! Just had me thinking why putting a larger in a water heater would matter at all.

Once again, awesome.. thank you!

[Brokenjeep]

You can get a spa GFCI box sometimes on Kijiji or craiglist but it's always better to test it !

I saw a Gfci 60 amp Eaton Cutler-Hammer in a box for a spa, new, 119,99 $ at a spa reseller.

Scoured our various add sites.. timing is everything eh?!