Controller Help!

[ElCubanazo]

Hello all,

I don’t speak electricity that well. I’l provide the best explanation of my current situation and then ask for some advice:

Currently have an 8gall boiler with a 1500w 120v element and I’m using this controller:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074D35YB8/re ... uCb93C2TN4" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

Maybe this is the total wrong controller to use but they’ve been serving me decently. I say “they” and “decently” cause over the past two years of stillin’ I’ve had one crap out on me and now months later the second seems to be sputtering out on me.

As this one sputters out on me I wanted to gauge the community on my options. To be frank while I’ll do my best if I have to I really would love to just focus on stillin’ with a controller that works and not assemble one myself.

To that end I’d like to ask if something like this would be appropriate for my setup?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078Z7GL9H/re ... uCbZT6F13X" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

If not that I saw some folks post some stuff from Auber lately. I know some assembly and rewiring might be required but wanted to ask if I go the Auber route would these be all the parts I need?:
https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main ... cts_id=444" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_ ... ducts_id=9" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main ... cts_id=348" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

Thanks in advance! Really appreciate this community correcting me on my ignorance!

[Yummyrum]

Hello all,

I don’t speak electricity that well. I’l provide the best explanation of my current situation and then ask for some advice:

Currently have an 8gall boiler with a 1500w 120v element and I’m using this controller:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074D35YB8/re ... uCb93C2TN4" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

Maybe this is the total wrong controller to use but they’ve been serving me decently. I say “they” and “decently” cause over the past two years of stillin’ I’ve had one crap out on me and now months later the second seems to be sputtering out on me.
It's running at almost full rating with no room for margin .We all have our preferences on how much head room a controller should have , some are happy with 20% some up to 50% , but your controller should be at least able to handle 20-25 amps to allow a safe operating margin IMO on that element you are using
As this one sputters out on me I wanted to gauge the community on my options. To be frank while I’ll do my best if I have to I really would love to just focus on stillin’ with a controller that works and not assemble one myself.

To that end I’d like to ask if something like this would be appropriate for my setup?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078Z7GL9H/re ... uCbZT6F13X" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
Variacs are big heavy clunky things .You would want to use the 2kW one .......but they do burn out too .....I know , I used to use them at work .

If not that I saw some folks post some stuff from Auber lately. I know some assembly and rewiring might be required but wanted to ask if I go the Auber route would these be all the parts I need?:
https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main ... cts_id=444" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_ ... ducts_id=9" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main ... cts_id=348" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

I really like those Auberin controllers but you will need to do some DIY to get it done . At least you can always use it on 220V in the future and if you get bigger elements , just upgrade the SSR -DA

Thanks in advance! Really appreciate this community correcting me on my ignorance!

[ElCubanazo]

I really like those Auberin controllers but you will need to do some DIY to get it done . At least you can always use it on 220V in the future and if you get bigger elements , just upgrade the SSR -DA

What does the DIY to get it done entail exactly? And would those three links be everything I need to purchase?

[6 Row Joe]

I have a 3 gallon pot with a 2000 watt internal element. (Mile high Mighty Mini). Your element is way undersized. I need a 20 amp circuit and a comperable controller to handle the amperage of a 2000 watt element. I can imagine it takes forever for you to get the pot to temp. Yep for that size of pot I would recommend a 220 volt unit of probably 4000 - 5000 watts.

[Yummyrum]

What does the DIY to get it done entail exactly? And would those three links be everything I need to purchase?

They are the key ingredients but then you need a box to mount it in , some heatsink compound to apply between the SSR and heatsink .
Maybe a fan and fan guard and a small power supply to run it unless you get a 110v or 220v one .

Plugs and sockets going into and out of the box however you could just cut an extension lead in half and use cable securing clamps to protect the cable entry and exit .

Then there are a few other sundry items like nuts and bolts , star washers etc .

Suggest having a look at a few builds to get an idea of how to do it . It's not very hard at all .

[ElCubanazo]

I have a 3 gallon pot with a 2000 watt internal element. (Mile high Mighty Mini). Your element is way undersized. I need a 20 amp circuit and a comperable controller to handle the amperage of a 2000 watt element. I can imagine it takes forever for you to get the pot to temp. Yep for that size of pot I would recommend a 220 volt unit of probably 4000 - 5000 watts.

I live in a small apartment and the only 220 is the drier and it's far away from where I still. We're talking about buying a place so maybe when looking I'll survey they 220 volt outlet situation haha.

On top of that I've noticed if I run my 1500w element at full blast on stripping runs it'll smell a bit burnt off the spout. Kinda like when something burns to the bottom of a pot? I don't really clarify or let things settle after the ferment so I know that's on me. With stripping runs I run it real low with that controller to prevent that and just kinda walk off since it takes care of itself. The spirit runs I crank the element since there's no particulate to burn.

In the future you're definitely right but for now just gonna stick with what I've got since access to a 220v is precarious.

In the topic of future upgrades I'm actually looking up jacketed solutions with ~8 gallon capacity if y'all have any suggestions.

[still_stirrin]

...I've noticed if I run my 1500w element at full blast on stripping runs it'll smell a bit burnt off the spout. Kinda like when something burns to the bottom of a pot? I don't really clarify or let things settle after the ferment so I know that's on me. With stripping runs I run it real low with that controller to prevent that and just kinda walk off since it takes care of itself. The spirit runs I crank the element since there's no particulate to burn...

Is it an internal heat element...or a hotplate?

Lowering the watt density will help reduce the propensity to scorch. That is, if you have a 1.5kW 120VAC element and you replace it with a 5.5kW 220VAC element but only power it with 120VAC, it will deliver up to 1375 watts of heating power over the much larger surface area of the wavy element. This lowers the watts per square centimeter of element surface making it less likely to scorch your wash.

A 5.5kW element run on 120VAC draws a little over 11 amps, so your existing fan controller should adequately control it. Of note, although you would be reducing the heating power, it will have more surface to transfer the heat to the wash, so it may still heat the wash to production just as quickly, if not quicker. This is due to the improved efficiency of heat transfer between the element and the liquid (wash).

So, with the constraints of your current operations (facility), it would be an approach which may help reduce the “smoky” character of your stripping or potstill runs.
ss

[ElCubanazo]

Is it an internal heat element...or a hotplate?

Lowering the watt density will help reduce the propensity to scorch. That is, if you have a 1.5kW 120VAC element and you replace it with a 5.5kW 220VAC element but only power it with 120VAC, it will deliver up to 1375 watts of heating power over the much larger surface area of the wavy element. This lowers the watts per square centimeter of element surface making it less likely to scorch your wash.

A 5.5kW element run on 120VAC draws a little over 11 amps, so your existing fan controller should adequately control it. Of note, although you would be reducing the heating power, it will have more surface to transfer the heat to the wash, so it may still heat the wash to production just as quickly, if not quicker. This is due to the improved efficiency of heat transfer between the element and the liquid (wash).

So, with the constraints of your current operations (facility), it would be an approach which may help reduce the “smoky” character of your stripping or potstill runs.
ss

Oh man, SS, don't know what to say other than yes that makes so much sense and I feel real dumb not having thought of that after all this time.

This would allow me to upgrade if I get access to a 220v outlet in the future and might very well help a bit with the current setup.

And buying and hooking up a new element is way cheaper and less work than setting up a new controller. (Which I will obviously need to do of I get access to that 220v)

Thanks!