Just finished up building a spa panel for my gfci. Controller parts are on the way. I don't have much of an electrical background other than changing out some outlets and wiring some low voltage LEDs and other basics, so this post is more of "here's what I built, please make sure it looks right" and hopefully this topic can help others build their own. Please feel free to ask me any questions to double check what I did or didn't do before I plug this baby in and accidentally scramble some eggs
I were up everything, in hots main breakers, out hots out of bottom of breakers, neutrals and neutral pigtail to the neutral bus, grounds to ground bus, everything is screwed in tight. Basically just followed the instructions.
My parts list: (this project can be sourced entirely from Lowes and HD
10 gauge 4 prong NEMA 14-30R Dryer cord
50 amp gfci spa panel
10/4 SOOW cord @ 5 feet
Plastic outlet box
30 Amp NEMA 14-30R Receptacle
Stainless cover plate to look good
Some 3/4" strain reliefs for in/out of spa panel
My Spa Panel GFCI Build
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My Spa Panel GFCI Build
Last edited by konatown on Tue Jul 02, 2019 7:36 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: My Spa Panel GFCI Build
Looks good for the GFCI and wiring, though you're going to need space for the controller, are you planning another box?
Personally, I prefer twist lock connectors for the connection security; but what you have there should work just fine!
Personally, I prefer twist lock connectors for the connection security; but what you have there should work just fine!
_____________________
EXPAT
Current boiler and pot head
Cross flow condenser
Modular 3" Boka - pics tbd
___________________
EXPAT
Current boiler and pot head
Cross flow condenser
Modular 3" Boka - pics tbd
___________________
Re: My Spa Panel GFCI Build
Thanks for the reply!Expat wrote:Looks good for the GFCI and wiring, though you're going to need space for the controller, are you planning another box?
Personally, I prefer twist lock connectors for the connection security; but what you have there should work just fine!
I bought this DIY controller kit to plug into the gfci, so yes another box.
http://moonshinedistiller.com/distillat ... oller-kit/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
I know it is probably slightly overpriced at $200 shipped but it was convenient and this gfci and that kit will be about all the electrical I think I can handle working on for now lol.
I was going to do twist lock but the controller I ordered uses the same plug so I'll keep it for now. I'm sure I will be upgrading in the future to more bells and whistles and a dual element, but this will hopefully get me started for now.
Re: My Spa Panel GFCI Build
Forgot to say, please consider loading the images directly to HD rather than linking to them. Otherwise in the fire there is a good chance that the images will no longer be available and the thread will be worthless.
_____________________
EXPAT
Current boiler and pot head
Cross flow condenser
Modular 3" Boka - pics tbd
___________________
EXPAT
Current boiler and pot head
Cross flow condenser
Modular 3" Boka - pics tbd
___________________
Re: My Spa Panel GFCI Build
As long as you aren't trying to use 120v (i.e. L1 or L2 to N) you will be ok, although it isn't correct. You have the input and output neutrals connected together, which is wrong. The load neutral should be connected to the center terminal on the load side. Here is the manual with the correct wiring diagram. https://www.eaton.com/content/dam/eaton ... 02001y.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
The fool that wired the spa panel for the hot tub in our house (before we bought it) made the same mistake. Every time we turned the lights on in the hot tub (120v) the breaker would trip. Easy fix, just move one wire.
The fool that wired the spa panel for the hot tub in our house (before we bought it) made the same mistake. Every time we turned the lights on in the hot tub (120v) the breaker would trip. Easy fix, just move one wire.
Re: My Spa Panel GFCI Build
Good idea I will add them. I hate when images hosted get deleted and then there's nothing to look at.Expat wrote:Forgot to say, please consider loading the images directly to HD rather than linking to them. Otherwise in the fire there is a good chance that the images will no longer be available and the thread will be worthless.
I see what you're saying. The diagram I followed was a little harder to see, the output neutral is coming out of the gfci along with the pigtail. I just didn't catch that. Thanks for noticing!RedwoodHillBilly wrote:As long as you aren't trying to use 120v (i.e. L1 or L2 to N) you will be ok, although it isn't correct. You have the input and output neutrals connected together, which is wrong. The load neutral should be connected to the center terminal on the load side. Here is the manual with the correct wiring diagram. https://www.eaton.com/content/dam/eaton ... 02001y.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
The fool that wired the spa panel for the hot tub in our house (before we bought it) made the same mistake. Every time we turned the lights on in the hot tub (120v) the breaker would trip. Easy fix, just move one wire.
- Oldvine Zin
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Re: My Spa Panel GFCI Build
Good catch, at first glance of the pic I didn't see thatRedwoodHillBilly wrote: The load neutral should be connected to the center terminal on the load side.
OVZ
Re: My Spa Panel GFCI Build
I guess that your TDS makes you blind to the obvious.