Wiring Diagram Validation and Questions

[Pavlichenk0]

Hi everybody,
I'm working my way through the education and design portion of the stilling experience, thanks to all of you!

I have a control box partially built, but I wanted to run my design by the group so I can be more sure that it won't light on fire when I plug it in. I don't have any real electrical experience, especially not with 240v mains power.

The controller will plug into a NEMA 10-30R (3-prong) outlet that is protected by a 30amp GFCI breaker in my house's main panel.
The plan is to drive a 5500W ultra-low density heating element with the MoonshineDistiller.com kit: a 30-amp SSR (labeled ZG1NC-240C) and a 500K potentiometer. I want to incorporate a panel-mounted 30A 2-pole circuit breaker, a digital multifunction ammeter, and a hardwired case fan. I have gone through a bunch of threads on here and haven't seen a wiring diagram for this exact setup.

I'm interested to know whether the components and diagram I have drawn (attached) look kosher. I'm also not sure exactly where/how to wire in the fan.

Any advice? Glad to supply more info.

Thanks!

Diagram:

SSR/Potentiometer: https://moonshinedistiller.com/heat-con ... components

Multimeter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07K3S4K9L

Fan: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H8TQ7B1

[shadylane]

Looks good

Since the fan can run on 240v
I'd connect it to the circuit breaker along with the meter.

[AlZilla]

Looks good

Since the fan can run on 240v
I'd connect it to the circuit breaker along with the meter.

Being careful how many wires are connected to the circuit breaker. Some are designed to have 1 wire per terminal, some for 2 wires per. I'm assuming this CB is in some kind of enclosure with the rest of the components and not the CB in the electrical panel. I know, I know, but it pays to be clear, especially on internet forums.

[HDNB]

you could use a 20A ST / DP switch instead of a cct breaker...you already have a 30A gfci upsteam. save a ton of dough and it will last longer.

wiring is ok

run the 240 fan as suggested, parallel with meter, after the switch. don't try to make 120 out of the ground under any circumstance.

bare up all the wires and solder them together before trying to connect them to the switch...personally i'd solder them all into a ring connector and screw that down on the switch. (and the other connections)

[AlZilla]

you could use a 20A ST / DP switch instead of a cct breaker...you already have a 30A gfci upsteam. save a ton of dough and it will last longer.

wiring is ok

run the 240 fan as suggested, parallel with meter, after the switch. don't try to make 120 out of the ground under any circumstance.

bare up all the wires and solder them together before trying to connect them to the switch...personally i'd solder them all into a ring connector and screw that down on the switch. (and the other connections)

Wouldn't he want a 30A switch? Isn't that 5500W element at 240V is going to draw around 23 amps?

[Pavlichenk0]

Thanks for all the tips!

I'm assuming this CB is in some kind of enclosure with the rest of the components and not the CB in the electrical panel. I know, I know, but it pays to be clear, especially on internet forums.

Totally agree. I realized after the fact that I left out a couple of details. The circuit shown in my drawing is inside an 8x8x4 PVC junction box from Home Depot.
I did plan on using an additional standard 2-pole (non-GFCI) 30-amp breaker from the hardware store, but I ended up having a tough time fitting and supporting it within the box. Instead, I ordered a Leviton 30-amp DPST motor starter switch off Amazon instead. I made this decision while I found myself soldering 10G wire into the rail clamps on top of the breaker. It seems like a solid connection (for now lol) but it looks like shit and is definitely not how the breaker was meant to be used. In order for it to work and keep the connections from rattling loose after a few dozen throws of the breaker lever, I'd probably have to model & 3D print a custom standoff with countersunk boltholes and yaddah yaddah yaddah... Thus the switch.

It's funny, I had all kinds of ring terminals piled onto spots like the ground lug on the SSR before I realized I should just twist & cap the leads together and use a single terminal. I also shrink-fit and soldered the crimped side of every terminal. I'll post pics once the switch is delivered and things are squared away.

don't try to make 120 out of the ground under any circumstance.

Thanks for pointing that out. I definitely won't. The 3-wire vs. 4-wire 240v question definitely took a while to wrap my head around. Honestly, it kind of seems like 3-wire 240v wiring is "easy mode" as far as diagramming & setup goes, because you don't really have to care about polarity.

My goal with this setup (as with almost every other expensive purchase) is that critical nexus of robustness, value, simplicity, and versatility. The 30A, 5500W setup running 13 gallons through a 3" CCVM column seems to hit all those marks for me, at least.

Once I get the switch installed in the control box and the GFCI breaker installed in my house electrical panel, I'm ready for the vinegar run! I'll be sure to post pics.

BTW, I found this video helpful for anybody looking at installing a GFCI breaker. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bu0_I4n-TSo

Thanks again!

[HDNB]

you could use a 20A ST / DP switch instead of a cct breaker...you already have a 30A gfci upsteam. save a ton of dough and it will last longer.

wiring is ok

run the 240 fan as suggested, parallel with meter, after the switch. don't try to make 120 out of the ground under any circumstance.

bare up all the wires and solder them together before trying to connect them to the switch...personally i'd solder them all into a ring connector and screw that down on the switch. (and the other connections)

Wouldn't he want a 30A switch? Isn't that 5500W element at 240V is going to draw around 23 amps?

21A on my meter, but rarely run it at that. 20A will have tons of headroom to carry a 5500w. also, to make life easy on the switch, turn it one first then dial up power consumption, so you are not making/breaking a 20 draw.

mine has run a zillion hours and nothing gets warm or sparky.

[Expat]

you could use a 20A ST / DP switch instead of a cct breaker...you already have a 30A gfci upsteam. save a ton of dough and it will last longer.

wiring is ok

run the 240 fan as suggested, parallel with meter, after the switch. don't try to make 120 out of the ground under any circumstance.

bare up all the wires and solder them together before trying to connect them to the switch...personally i'd solder them all into a ring connector and screw that down on the switch. (and the other connections)

Wouldn't he want a 30A switch? Isn't that 5500W element at 240V is going to draw around 23 amps?

21A on my meter, but rarely run it at that. 20A will have tons of headroom to carry a 5500w.

Mine runs a steady 23A at full power. The meter actually says 22.8, but I suspect that calibration might account for the difference. Math would suggest you're only getting 5kw out of your element, rather than 5.5.

[AlZilla]

you could use a 20A ST / DP switch instead of a cct breaker...you already have a 30A gfci upsteam. save a ton of dough and it will last longer.

wiring is ok

run the 240 fan as suggested, parallel with meter, after the switch. don't try to make 120 out of the ground under any circumstance.

bare up all the wires and solder them together before trying to connect them to the switch...personally i'd solder them all into a ring connector and screw that down on the switch. (and the other connections)

Wouldn't he want a 30A switch? Isn't that 5500W element at 240V is going to draw around 23 amps?

21A on my meter, but rarely run it at that. 20A will have tons of headroom to carry a 5500w. also, to make life easy on the switch, turn it one first then dial up power consumption, so you are not making/breaking a 20 draw.

mine has run a zillion hours and nothing gets warm or sparky.

For the tiny cost difference between a 20A and 30A switch, I'd do the 30. OP could still draw a full 5500W for heat up. But I like a wide safety margin around electricity.

[Kindafrench]

If you‘d like to fine control the power, add a linear type potentiometer with a 1/10th the resistance of your pot. in series with it. Nice to have but no must have. Maybe you should figure out if there‘s heat transfer paste between the SSR and the aluminium cooler. If not, apply some.
Cables >= 2.5 mm2 with crimped ends.