Pulse Width Modulator

[OklahomaShiner]

Im in the process of trying to put together a controller for my element. I want to put together a PWM. I’m not knowledgeable in electronics but a PWM seems like something I could put together.

These are the parts I plan on purchasing (minus the plug for the element):

PWM-https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MXLHP ... KWR8&psc=1

Switch-https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00CTUV6 ... 0DER&psc=1

Fan-https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B019ORFS ... FSAR&psc=1

Junction box-https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B08TC3G6 ... 4BCW&psc=1


I’ll also purchase a volt/amp meter with it or add it on later.

Would be suitable for a beginner? I would upgrade/add things as I learn more.

[Setsumi]

it seems the SCR already comes with a volt/amp meter/reading. check on the amp rating of the switch, it may be low. but yes you have the correct idea.

[bluefish_dist]

The easiest method is the super simple controller. Scr with register control, potentiometer, heat sink, control box, switch, and a power meter off eBay. While a little more the scr still dragon sells seems to hold up well. Lots of threads on how to build one.

It’s not quite pwm, but close as it just chops off part of the 60hz wave.

Wiring is simple, scr and switch go on one leg of the power, the other leg is unbroken. Potentiometer attaches to the scr. If using a power meter, tap the feed side for power and put the amp ring over one of the legs. Put it all in a box with heat sink and maybe a fan. For a switch, a standard household switch can be purchased with enough capacity to work.

Those pictures of the pwm don’t match up to a 10kw controller. Not saying it can’t be done, but the board shown doesn’t match up to the power claimed.

[OklahomaShiner]

The easiest method is the super simple controller. Scr with register control, potentiometer, heat sink, control box, switch, and a power meter off eBay. While a little more the scr still dragon sells seems to hold up well. Lots of threads on how to build one.

It’s not quite pwm, but close as it just chops off part of the 60hz wave.

Wiring is simple, scr and switch go on one leg of the power, the other leg is unbroken. Potentiometer attaches to the scr. If using a power meter, tap the feed side for power and put the amp ring over one of the legs. Put it all in a box with heat sink and maybe a fan. For a switch, a standard household switch can be purchased with enough capacity to work.

Those pictures of the pwm don’t match up to a 10kw controller. Not saying it can’t be done, but the board shown doesn’t match up to the power claimed.

So I might as well purchase the one from still dragon? It’s only
$70 with shipping https://stilldragon.com/diy-controller-kit.html
I was just thinking the digital PWM would be easier to use then the knobs in a way.

[Saltbush Bill]

So I might as well purchase the one from still dragon? It’s only
$70 with shipping

Those work and are good value for money.

[OtisT]

So I might as well purchase the one from still dragon? It’s only
$70 with shipping

Those work and are good value for money.

+1. I have been using my still dragon controller for about 4 years and it’s still working great. I would recommend you add a second pot, for fine tuning of the power output. As said above, lots of threads on HD that cover the build, including with a second pot.

Best of luck to you. Otis

[Demy]

I am a fan of Aliexpress (due to the place where I live and the price), here something similar to your idea https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_ad5gfa
This version I like most https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_aeg5bk
These above in the links use an SCR system while the link to Still-Dragon use another system(Resistance adjustment) , both are good options.

[Yummyrum]

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MXLHP ... KWR8&psc=1

That was the best Chinlish novel I’ve read in a while …..
It is from my understanding just a typical Triac ( what they call a new two way SCR) phase controller thatvthey have fancied up with a little micro computer that shows a percentage of power adjustable by push buttons .

And while it may at first glance to resemble a cheap alternative to the Auberins DSPR1 controller , it is not .

At the end of the day , it probably functions similar except that when the Auberins says 50% power it truely is where as the cheap version by their own Admission is non-linear so that if it shows 50% , its could be anywhere from 60-80%

[OklahomaShiner]

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MXLHP ... KWR8&psc=1

At the end of the day , it probably functions similar except that when the Auberins says 50% power it truely is where as the cheap version by their own Admission is non-linear so that if it shows 50% , its could be anywhere from 60-80%

That being said, would that make a better alternative? Would I be able to do the the set up I was planning on but switch that cheap PWM with the Auber one?
The DSPR1
https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main ... cts_id=444

Or maybe the DSPR2
https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main ... cts_id=452

[Yummyrum]

The difference between DSPR1 and DSPR2 is that the “2” has a built in solid state relay but it can only handle 3amps . Not enough unless you wanted to run an Airstill with it .

The DSPR 1 does need to be connected to an external Solid State Relay but this means you can select one to suit your requirements . Typically a SSR40DA would be used . Note the DA suffix . The SSRxxDA series are digital Solid state relays designed to be controlled by intelligent controllers .

The SSRxxVA or SSRxxVR series of solid state relays are designed to be connected to a Pot . (This is the type used in the Still dragon controller kit and most commonly used by home distillers .)

The two types of SSR are different beasts and not interchangable .

The DSPR1 can also easily drive multiple elements as in a three phase system if needed.

[OklahomaShiner]

The difference between DSPR1 and DSPR2 is that the “2” has a built in solid state relay but it can only handle 3amps . Not enough unless you wanted to run an Airstill with it .

The DSPR 1 does need to be connected to an external Solid State Relay but this means you can select one to suit your requirements . Typically a SSR40DA would be used . Note the DA suffix . The SSRxxDA series are digital Solid state relays designed to be controlled by intelligent controllers .

The SSRxxVA or SSRxxVR series of solid state relays are designed to be connected to a Pot . (This is the type used in the Still dragon controller kit and most commonly used by home distillers .)

The two types of SSR are different beasts and not interchangable .

The DSPR1 can also easily drive multiple elements as in a three phase system if needed.

Sorry, I missed that about about the DSPR2. So I would need to add a SSR and it would work for me? Would this do?
I would add a heat sink to it also.

I have 15.5 gal keg, plan on using 2 120v 1500-2000 watt elements I’ve new the electric still world and I’ve been reading and trying to learn what I can about it but it’s kinda confusing

[bluefish_dist]

With two elements, put one on a relay or switch and the other on a controller. You don’t need two controllers. Then you can run from 0-100% power. For 0-50%, use the controller, then at 50-100, turn on the second element 100% and adjust the controller to get from 50-100%. I used a similar setup to run 3 elements. 2 on relays with switches and one on a controller.

[Yummyrum]

Sorry, I missed that about about the DSPR2. So I would need to add a SSR and it would work for me? Would this do?

Yes that will work on the DSPR1

[OklahomaShiner]

Off topic, does this look good for a liebig build? Minus the copper wire, I’ll be getting that later.

[Hambone]

That would work…

[TwoSheds]

I built mine with a similar material list and it gets the job done. I did add a spiral of wire between the pipes. You can find plenty of posts and info on doing that.

[Saltbush Bill]

For what its worth , Ive built a few liebigs , I use them regularly, I'm not convinced that the wire is really needed.
Everbody these days seems to worry about disturbing the flow of the water for maximum cooling, but what about the vapor traveling down the inner tube of the Liebig?
Does no one bother to crimp inner tubes any longer ?

[Yummyrum]

I still do Salty

Well at least in the last two I made several years ago.

[OklahomaShiner]

For what its worth , Ive built a few liebigs , I use them regularly, I'm not convinced that the wire is really needed.
Everbody these days seems to worry about disturbing the flow of the water for maximum cooling, but what about the vapor traveling down the inner tube of the Liebig?
Does no one bother to crimp inner tubes any longer ?

I read through a post that was made back in 2009,I think, about guy that did an experiment with his old liebig without the wire and a new one he made with. He came to the same conclusion as you, it didn’t seem to make a difference. I’m going to go ahead and add one, it wouldn’t really be any extra trouble. I am also going add one in the inner tube also. I’m going make it as long as the condensing section and flatten the wire and spiral it.

[TwoSheds]

Everbody these days seems to worry about disturbing the flow of the water for maximum cooling

You’re right about that but as I was designing mine my thinking was 1) it’s easy to add, 2) it might disturb the water flow but I doubt that matters, and 3) it will help carry heat from the inner tube like a fin on a heat sync.

To accommodate 3, I soldered mine over the whole length, not just a few spots. And it’s a slip fit into the outer tube so it may even cary some heat to the outer tube to radiate to the air or water from that side as well.

All that having been said, I run so little water through it (at least so far, we’ll see as I up the power) that it seems to have a ton of knock down. No doubt it’s not _necessary_. Helpful? Maybe.