Well I found a leak. It was looking good post assembly when I did a leak test, so I went ahead with with water run, then vinegar. I got to see it in action and it could knock down 5500W of vinegar vapor no problem. My sugar wash is all ready to go but when I hook up my cooling lines and run them fast for another leak test there is just a tiny dribble of cooling water coming out between plate and vapor tube. I assume that's unacceptable since that water will end up in product.
I'm not sure how to proceed. Was it reasonable to think I could hand cut shotgun plates and solder them in without a flare? I suppose I'll try resoldering but I'm considering rebuild, maybe a liebig, or buying a condenser. Anyway I just wanted to rant. I'll go keg my sugar wash and save it for later.
My 2" shotgun
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- Twisted Brick
- Master of Distillation
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Re: My 2" shotgun
Sorry to hear of your leak. It is why (deservedly so) shotgun construction has been regarded as prohibitively difficult and the primary reason EZ Solder end plates and baffles were designed with flanges around both the vapor tubes and plate perimeter (anywhere solder could cause a leak).
I have not ever had to repair a vapor tube leak, but you might try first stuffing some misted cloth 'cigars' into the three other vapor tubes to help keep those soldered joints cool and heating a thin ring of solder from the leaky vapor tube 'inside out' with a small torch tip.
Good luck.
I have not ever had to repair a vapor tube leak, but you might try first stuffing some misted cloth 'cigars' into the three other vapor tubes to help keep those soldered joints cool and heating a thin ring of solder from the leaky vapor tube 'inside out' with a small torch tip.
Good luck.
“Always carry a flagon of whiskey in case of snakebite, and furthermore, always carry a small snake.”
- W.C. Fields
My EZ Solder Shotgun
My Steam Rig and Manometer
- W.C. Fields
My EZ Solder Shotgun
My Steam Rig and Manometer
- still_stirrin
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Re: My 2" shotgun
Fuggles,
+1 to TB’s suggestion.
When making a shotgun, I solder the tube bank with baffles together first. And then slide it into the outer shell.
I use a “pencil point” mapp gas/oxygen torch for a very fine (hot) point flame and then I “swirl” the flame in a circular motion. It melts the solder locally and the swirling motion will help “walk” the solder to the place you need it, like the pinhole for example. The fine point won’t melt the surrounding solder, so it works to smooth the upper and lower baffle joints and solder closure to the shell. Moving quickly with the flame works best. It’s almost like brazing or welding with a torch, and not unlike TiG welding except with different material.
Another tip for repairing is to use a dampened cloth and wrap around the outside of the shell where the baffle is soldered in. It will keep that joint from melting open again.
You can repair your shotgun, but you will need the right tools.
ss
+1 to TB’s suggestion.
When making a shotgun, I solder the tube bank with baffles together first. And then slide it into the outer shell.
I use a “pencil point” mapp gas/oxygen torch for a very fine (hot) point flame and then I “swirl” the flame in a circular motion. It melts the solder locally and the swirling motion will help “walk” the solder to the place you need it, like the pinhole for example. The fine point won’t melt the surrounding solder, so it works to smooth the upper and lower baffle joints and solder closure to the shell. Moving quickly with the flame works best. It’s almost like brazing or welding with a torch, and not unlike TiG welding except with different material.
Another tip for repairing is to use a dampened cloth and wrap around the outside of the shell where the baffle is soldered in. It will keep that joint from melting open again.
You can repair your shotgun, but you will need the right tools.
ss
My LM/VM & Potstill: My build thread
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My Cadco hotplate modification thread: Hotplate Build
My stock pot gin still: stock pot potstill
My 5-grain Bourbon recipe: Special K
Re: My 2" shotgun
Maybe but I was not confident that I could fix it. I had cut the plates by hand and drilled the holes with a step bit. Also at point one I hammered on it trying to take it apart. So I cut the tubes out and started over.still_stirrin wrote: ↑Wed Dec 29, 2021 1:41 pm You can repair your shotgun, but you will need the right tools.
Cut new plates on my hobby CNC.
Brazed the plates on the back side.
Soldered the end plates.
One pipe leaked after that so I tried soldering the leak with the micro tip oxy/map. That actually worked. Maybe I just remelted the braze and closed a crack. Anyway water stays in the shell even under some pressure.
Put the ferrules on and here's a leak test. That's full of water over night.
Thanks for the great tips SS and TB!
- Twisted Brick
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Re: My 2" shotgun
Nice work, Fuggles!
This hobby sure can bring out the traits and skills of a person - your repair just showed determination, persistence, research and problem-solving. Now, on to makin' you some hooch! Honestly, you are going to love the performance of your shotty, which will become the quiet workhorse of your kit.
This hobby sure can bring out the traits and skills of a person - your repair just showed determination, persistence, research and problem-solving. Now, on to makin' you some hooch! Honestly, you are going to love the performance of your shotty, which will become the quiet workhorse of your kit.
“Always carry a flagon of whiskey in case of snakebite, and furthermore, always carry a small snake.”
- W.C. Fields
My EZ Solder Shotgun
My Steam Rig and Manometer
- W.C. Fields
My EZ Solder Shotgun
My Steam Rig and Manometer
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Re: My 2" shotgun
Honestly...
watching vicariously through pictures and dialogue, I find HD builders more interesting to watch than "Forged in Fire" Bwahahahaaaaa
you guys make me want to invest in all the right tools! Anyone got an extra $Million$ laying around?
I've got a selection of propane torches, a tiger torch, a powerful hotplate, Mapp/Oxy....
the only thing I haven't got is the gumption to start on mine. I tend to overread/research before I put fire to copper!
But in doing so, I was able to make my 2" potstill in one quick go!
a big SHOUT out to Fuggles for this thread, and all the others who offered invaluable advice!
watching vicariously through pictures and dialogue, I find HD builders more interesting to watch than "Forged in Fire" Bwahahahaaaaa
you guys make me want to invest in all the right tools! Anyone got an extra $Million$ laying around?
I've got a selection of propane torches, a tiger torch, a powerful hotplate, Mapp/Oxy....
the only thing I haven't got is the gumption to start on mine. I tend to overread/research before I put fire to copper!
But in doing so, I was able to make my 2" potstill in one quick go!
a big SHOUT out to Fuggles for this thread, and all the others who offered invaluable advice!
Re: My 2" shotgun
Thanks guys! I wanted to address the suggestion from SS better
I tried fixing the first version by heating inside the leaky vapour tube with the pin point oxy/map, and using the cloth cigars in the other tubes. All the new and existing solder drained away. I think cutting the holes with a step bit caused me problems since the holes had a bevel. I made the call that I needed better end plates. If not I would waste time and gas and at best end up with a shotgun that looked bad and I was not confident in. Anyway happy with the learning and the end result.still_stirrin wrote: ↑Wed Dec 29, 2021 1:41 pm You can repair your shotgun, but you will need the right tools.
Re: My 2" shotgun
I know this is old but glad I found this. Just goes to show. Just about any questions you have. All the answers are here... Love the knowledge available here on HDTwisted Brick wrote: ↑Sun Aug 01, 2021 11:27 am+1Deplorable wrote: ↑Sun Aug 01, 2021 8:11 am Keep in mind that it doesn't have to point straight down. Articulate the two 90s so you can raise the output of the shotgun above your collection vessel. As long as it has a downward slope, and the distillate doesn't pool in the end reducer when installed you'll be fine. Like this.
20210516_131321.jpg
Run at an angle, you'll want to remember to orient your shotty so you have one vapor tube straight down at "six o'clock' to minimize any collection and smearing.
Great job on re-sizing your shotty and making the DWV work. At the pressures we incur during stilling, there's no harm in running DWV.
You're gonna love the speed of 3" through your shotgun. I cheated on my pot by combining my reflux condenser spool with my sight glass from my CCVM for the collection height I wanted.
New stillhead JPG.jpg